I just bought a set of pacesetter headers and its not looking to good for my ws y-pipe. i'm wondering if i have to use all the parts from the pacesetter headers, or will my y-pipe be able to be used. Another thing which set up is better. Would it be better if i just sold the y-pipe and used the pace setter set up? i need all the advice i can get...

 

You can' use your Y with it. It's either stock manifolds with the Y. Or Pasetter all the way to the cat.

If you use the pasestter, it would be smart to keep the Y just in case there's a problem with the pasetter in the future.

 

Keep the WSP Y and sell the Pacesetter crap.

 

Keep the WSP Y and sell the Pacesetter crap.

 

well the the crap was a christmas present... from friends who are honda freaks so they didnt know any better but i'll give the headers a whirl and see whats up thanks guys.

 

well the the crap was a christmas present... from friends who are honda freaks so they didnt know any better but i'll give the headers a whirl and see whats up thanks guys.

 

then you cant loose other then some time. Put them on make sure they don't leak, then get it dynod then put the stock manifolds and WSP Y pipe on and do the same. Also let us know how it fits when your done.

~Alex

 

Errr, why not save some labor and dyno BEFORE installing the pacesetter stuff?
(we all know it'll be coming back off shortly, but just in case.... )

 

Good some ones paying attention.....I realized after I posted and I was too lazy to change it

~Alex

 

well my stock manifolds leak so i'm pretty much like anything to fix the leak is better than nothing... so the headers will help somewhat

 

if the stockers leak I'm guessing you have bigger problems....like broken studs. Oh well, at least you'll be spending alot of time on that area anyways.

 

ahhhh $h1t broken studs, been there done that, its a real pain in the **** lol!

 

is it a certain that i have broken studs... cause all i want is that crappy ticking to go away...

 

oh you got the ticking thing goin, are you sure its coming from the exhaust, I know of the ticking noise from a leaking exhaust, but the ticking noise also comes with faulty VTC, and/or faulty coil / spark plug wiring.

 

If he didn't write his profile wrong, he's got a 91 SE. He shouldn't have any ticking of the VTC varity because he's got a VG.

Just replace your broken studs, or have someone remove them. That's the majority of your noise problem.

 

Muahahahahahaha!!! if you think its the manifold...think again!

 

so exaclty how hard is it to do the exhaust studs

 

What the hell are those pics of?

 

Thats great, I knew you could do something like that!

 

Jeff, those are my old studs that were pulled outta my car.

Paesantom, the ease of this job depends on skill, equipment, and time. I didnt do it, mechanic did but I stood next to him all 6+ hours of labor watching how it was done (PITA) As long as you have welder, lift that allows to walk under car and enough tools you should be fine.

Hey Goon, what do you mean by "I knew you could do something like that"? is there something I'm missin here?

 

odd.

When the stud was poking out, I just grabbed it with something and turned. But if the stud is below the head surface, I don't see how you could have got anything welded to them.

 

Most of them were below surface, and yes he just welded with a real fine and pointy thingy..took 6 hours but he got it done and looks like Nissan uses the turbo manifold studs for the maxima too. the only thing buggin me now is that the bolt that holds my distributor down isnt grabbin to well and my timing was messed up after tuning it right. its not the bolt but rather the hole..hmm what to do? I got a bigger one in there but still doubtful oh that fix

 

so then i'm not tackling this job with the exhaust studs.... how much was it to have your studs done. i think i may bring it to my local nissan dealership

 

NO!!! Nissan wanted 800 bucks from me to do the studs. I paid this guy $200 labor and I bought OEM parts for $115 hell he even changed all 6 y pipe studs

 

John isnt he charging $300 from now on? $300 is about the cheapest your going to get unless you do it the standered drill and ezout method. Theres a tonnnn of posts on the topic just search.

~Alex

 

Yea but he asked how much I paid not how much it would cost him. Yes the mechanic who did my studs found out that the A/C compressor had to be removed for front studs after he quoted me at 200 for labor...so as of now if anyone near is interested in his work..he'll do studs for $300 when you bring parts. so its pretty much 415 parts/labor

 

wow thats expensive... really dont wanna drop that kinda dough on exhaust studs... i could have my cams or my underdrive pulley for that kinda money. i really hope you guys are certain.

 

Well if you look at your exhaust manifolds you'll have your answer. For the back get a mirror or just use your hands and feel for holes where the studs would be. Thats a broken stud.

~Alex

 

So you're thinking of modding a messed up car? that doesnt make sense..how about fixing what wrong THEN upgrading it

 

i'll check it out thanks for all the info you guys have been alot of help.

 

anyone have the size / specs of the exhause hardware? i'd like to get a set of arp's before i get into this mess.

i'm showing they're 10mm 1.50 x 77mm....can anyone confirm or deny?

 

No they are 8MM, but some people have tapped them out to 10's as 10MM should never break. If you order the stock VG33 studs you should be fine.

But also ARP 8mm's would be a good way to go too. If I keep my max thats what I'll do.

~Alex

 

I just did "pacesetter"header,complete exaust and stainless high flow cat.Fit and sounds great.

 

Got any pics of all your work?