I have a 93 GXE and I live in Chicago, IL. The winter here is rather cold and my Maxima doesn't like it very much. Whenever the temperature is below 40°F the engine has a hard time warming up (it usually stays right at the "C" mark) and it can only reach normal operating temperature if you have the heat turned off and you are not moving. I takes about 10 minutes before the temperature gauge even starts to move and I know it isn't broken because if you turn the heat on, it blows cold air. If you are parked long enough for the temperature gauge to be in the middle and turn on the heat, the air is fairly warm but it gets cold fast. I had the dealer check it out and they said that everything is working as it should be. The thermostat opens and closes when it should, coolant is properly flowing through the engine, all fluid levels are properly filled, and the car runs fine. Since the engine is always cold, the car gets horrible gas mileage and you have to drive around in a car that's freezing inside. It was perfectly fine last year and hasn't had any repairs or service done except oil changes. Even if you floor the car from a standstill all the way up to 75MPH, it will only make the needle go up slightly and it quickly returns to cold. The faster you go, the colder the engine gets. My car has about 136,000 Miles on it and this is one of the few things I don't like about it. I was thinking of putting something in front of the radiator so that it won't get as much cold air flowing through but I know that it is only doing this because there is something wrong with it. This isn't that big of a deal but I am tired of having to drive my car and not being able to turn the heat on. Any guesses would be appreciated. Thank you.

 

My guess would be the dealer you took your car to,has no idea what they are doing...

This most definantly sounds like a bad thermostat issue,both my 3rd gens exhibited the same symtoms you are experiencing,both were fixed with a new t-stat..

 

I agree - I just changed my thermostat - $ 12 at courtesynissan and about 30 mins of work.

 

I agree with the others. It's the thermostat.

About 4-5 years ago, I had the same problem to a lesser degree (it's warmer in WA). My car would warm up after 2-3 miles. I noticed one day that even after I drove quite far (like 7 miles), it wasn't warmed up all the way.

Also, I noticed my temp gauge rose very slowly. In the end though it would warm up.

I bought a new thermostat from the dealer and it was fixed.

If you decide to do this yourself, the job isn't too hard. You'll have to scrape away the old gasket on the housing. The easiest way to do this I found was to use a Scoth-brite pad.

 

new thermostat will do it and they're real cheap comparing to water pump. I did it when I changed my T-Bell. I can't remember if you need to remove a whole lot of stuffs like timing bell cover, etc.. to get to it.

If you got heat, you're lucky. I got my car when I lived in Syracuse, NY 4-5 years ago. It was freaking cold out and the damn heater control valve was rusted to death so it never openned up the water path when I needed it at the heater core. Heck, back then I have no ideas so I kept driving around like that. It sucks ***** cuz it was mad cold. I had to live with it for a few weeks until I found out ways to open up that valve manually.

 

Dude, like everyone else is saying, its le Thermostat. My max warms up super fast compared to to my g.fs and her thermostat is bad.

by the way, where in Chicago are you?

 

I'd check for air bubbles first.
then jump to a t-stat.
just don't get a crappy T-stat.

 

I agree with internetautomar

 

If your Max isn't running at the proper temp, this can also affect your fuel mileage. Change the thermostat.

 

I live in Orland Park, just north of I-80.

 

Since every single post says that it is the thermostat, I am going to go to Pepboys tomorrow and see if they have one in stock. If they don't have it, I'll just order one from Nissan. My friend and I will just replace it but does anyone know where it is? Maybe a picture. Once again, thanks everyone.

 

http://www1.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...3d801f4c66.jsp

detailed instructions here. It is super easy. Drain your coolant. remove top radiator hose (gives you lots of room for tools), unbolt 4 bolts, clean gasket surface. replace with new thermostat. make sure jiggle valve is on top. refill coolant. If you havent changed your coolant lately, this is a good time to flush the system as you will be removing the thermostat.

 

Which method is best in your opinion when it comes to bleeding air in the dead of winter? Is it good enough to just start up the engine, run it with the rad cap off and let the air bubble away, or do you suggest dreaded the jacking method?

The air bleed bolt is pretty useless.

 

We just used the bleeder screw on my VE on thursday.
Before that I just let it run like you said for a long time, periodically adding anti-freeze and squeezing the upper hose to remove bubbles.

 

you still selling this?

 

lol he only posted that 14 years ago. Hopefully you’ll be in luck and he still has it.

his original post is now a teenager 😂