First of all, I want to thank this board for the all the tech info. Especially to those who have contributed their experience and put links in this web site. I have my clock fixed within 45 minutes, from start to finished.

I'd to share a few things regarding fixing my 92SE. I hope this will help others.

1) CLOCK: My clock was dead for 3 years. Last time, I pulled lots of things out to access the clock (took me 2 hrs) but I only checked the connections. I didn't fix it. Then I found out from this board (2 days ago) that I can pull a lot less panels to access the clock so I did it this morning. It took me 10 mins to get the clock out. Then about 25 mins to solder the dry joins. Then another 10 mins to put everything back. The only problem was I dropped my screw (the one close to the lever that adjust the tilt steering wheel) and I was able to slip my hand inside the panel to fish it out. When I got my clock out, there was an obvious dry join with the large resistor (100 ohms). I re-soldered it both sides and also soldered the pins of the connector. If you know how to operate a soldering iron, you don't even need to go the junk yard for a clock. COST: 30W Soldering iron, $15.

2) BOSE AMP: When I first bought the car used, the front drv BOSE speaker was low on volume. I didn't quite know what's going on so I yank it out and found an amp inside. Without a clue where to start so I swap the left and right amp and confirmed the amp was bad. Of course, like most of you, I checked with the dealer and got a quote of $500. I then called around for electronics shops and found one that is willing to repair it for $50. They said Nissan send them amps to fix daily. So I had them repaired it and they gave me a 90 days warranty (it's been 5 years and the amp still works). As time goes by, two other amps started to failed and I took them to the same shop and they raised the price to $75 each. Then the last amp failed. I was wondering what they did to fix my amp so I yanked a good amp out and found they changed only 7 electrolyte capacitors ! The reason is the electrolyte fluid inside the caps will dry up causing them to fail. Other components on the amp are solid states and all sealed. Each of the cap costs $0.05 ! So, I bought the 7 capacitors and replaced them all on the last amp. Sure enough, it works ! So, if you want to keep your BOSE systems and the speakers are going out (actually the amps), you can DIY and fix it for 35 cents ! Again, you will need to operate a soldering iron, which is not difficult. These capacitors have polarity and you have to put the new ones in the exact polarity as the old ones. Below are the capapacitor value:

C16, C203 - 1uF 50v
C7, C8 - 47uF 16v
C183, C172, C? - 10uF 50v

C? is the one next to C203, close to a coil. I can't read the lable on my amp but you won't miss it.

3) ANTENNA: It won't come all the way down. I was trying to mess with it few times but I ended up replacing it with a generic one from Wal-Mart (about $10). The new one I put in is a fixed antenna without motor. The new antenna is black in color. I just yanked the old thing out, put the new antenna in and hook up the coaxial cable connector for the antenna and don't use the electric connector that is suppose to connect to a motor. At first it look a little odd, but I think it look nice on my white max.

4) WINDOWS REGULATOR: Windows went down, heard a plastic breaking noise and won't go up again. I didn't replace the regulator but instead I yank the unit out and use wires to tie everything back. It works.

5) POWER DOOR LOCK: One day, my max was acting crazy. It unlocked all the doors itself. The alarm went off few times at night. All of these were random. I read the Chilton's book and found there there is a door lock timer that gets the signal from the control panel on the driver door. Since it also triggered the alarm, I knew my timer is good because the control panel also send intrusion signal to the alarm system. I yanked the control panel out and found it has some electronic inside. The circuit board was sprayed with a sealent but the layer was loose. Moisture trapped inside thus giving false signel to the integrated circuits therefore my door lock and alarm were acting funny. I removed the sealent layer and use a hair blower to blow it completely dry. Bingo ! it has been working for a few years.

6) ALL ELECTRIC WINDOWS FAILS: Few months ago, my electric windows were all failed at once. When I press the switches, nothing happens. I studied the Chilton's book again and found it's also likely a problem from the driver door control panel. I yanked it out again and sure enough, an on board resistor has a burnt mark and the surrounding are all black carbon deposits. I carefully cleaned that area and found the printed circuit in that area was also burnt to open circuit. I then soldered a thin wire to repair the circuit and then soldered a 470k ohms resistor (this value was a guestimate since the original resistor is all burnt so I started with the highest resistence I have to play safe) to replace the broken one. The windows definitely get back to life. This circuit board is very different then the one on the clock. This circuit board use SMT (surface mounting technology) and was assemblied using robot. It was possibly the most delicated and detailed soldering work I have done.

That's all I want to share. I would not have any problems if Mr. Webmaster wants to put this info into FAQ. I also have the VTC noise and will try to jump the VTC wire to engine ground this weekend. I will modify my front side market light so it will be bright even when turn signal is not on.

regards,

-AC

 

I'm bumping this one up again, because all newbies need 2 read this!!