redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

Ok - so I got broken rear exhaust studs - dont know how many , but the stuff ticks like crazy. I know I cant do them myself ( dont have the right tools or the 2 days that everyone seems to take to do the rear), so whats the downside to driving with a couple of the studs broken. Also, has anyone ever been able to reach and change the studs from the top ?

Hectic

iTrader: (20)

false o2 readings, worse gas mileage, less power, loudness. nothing you couldn't get away with putting it off till spring or summer though.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Also,long term running with broken studs can warp the exhaust manifold,thus inflating the cost of fixing the original problem..

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

drive right to the shop and have them weld and seal the whole thing to engine.... problem solved, quick, and cheap!

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

Anyone ever done this? - Anyone else recommend this? How much do you think it should cost? Any risks or downside to this?

Tom

I drove with 2 broken studs in the front manifold for a long time. One of the broken studs came out without too much difficulty, but the the other stud was realy stuck. A lot of WD40 and other penetrants were used, but the broken stud seemed to have literally become part of the head. It eventually came out after way too many hours, but this will drive up the repair costs.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

Im pretty sure he was joking. The risks/downside/cost would be infinite, since you cant weld cast iron to cast aluminum.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

no, I wasn't joking. Just a thought.

I'd thought it was made of aluminized steel? I'm not sure if that's what it was called but it appears to be the same material as the y-pipe. And you can weld the y-pipe. My WSP was welded to the cat fine. The cover might have been aluminum though but the main parts was aluminized steel. I honestly don't see any risks associated with it. It's not something where we need to take apart so often, as a matter of fact it's not something we ever need to take apart at all. If it ever happen to me, welding would be my first option.

He could always take it a shop have them inspect to make sure they're weld-able.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

I'm pretty sure the engine block was cast iron.



Looks like it was made of aluminized steel or stainless.

http://www.key-to-steel.com/default....Article&NM=185

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

The engine block is, but the exhaust manifold doesnt bolt up to the block. It bolts up the heads, which are aluminum.

bvtran

iTrader: (3)

don't they have all kinds of special fluxes out there that will joint cast iron to aluminum? TIG works pretty good on cast iron and they also have aluminum flux. I just don't see why is it a difficult challenge? btw, the manifold wasn't cast iron, look at that picture. It appears to be aluminized steel or stainless steel.

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

If , i find a single stud broken, can I replace it with the manifold on or do I have to take the entire manifold off to replace a stud

Alex_V

Dude its a very bad idea. The two metals have very different expansion/contraction rates and something will leak or break.

Plus the manifold IS cast iron, look under hood, not at idealistic pictures some one probably painted. It definitely is painted now that I look at it.

Just do it the normal way with the TT exhaust studs and not have to worry about it again.

Jimbo- yes its best to take it off. Soak them in PB Blaster before you take the other ones off, because more will snap.

~Alex

Yicco

tech help:
1)remover Y pipe
2)remove passenger axle (drain tranny fluid if you want to stay a little clean.
3)remove axle brace
4)remove exhaust manifold
5)fix/replace broken studs
6)do steps 4-1.
shouldn't be more than 5 hours.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

The OEM manifolds are for sure cast iron (and I highly suspect the one in above picture is as well). The shinny part, is the heat shield which is apears to be either painted or alluminized. Not that this matters much in this conversation, since the bottom line is neither stainless steel, aluminized steel, OR cast iron can be welded to aluminum, period. Doesnt matter if you use ARC, MIG or TIG.

redwood_usa

iTrader: (4)

Ok - your instructions are a little diff from what everyone else says. Whats the axle got to do with the manifold ?? Do you not take out the rear engine mount if you do this?? Do you have any pics of this method ?

saxytothemaxima

I have the SAME problem.... REAR manifold too.. Ive heard its a lot of work to get fixed. Ive had several mechanics tell me that they would have to take the ENGINE out... Kinda scary coming from your pocket, so ive heard.. Is this true? I need to get this fixed. Poor Max has been name-called POS.. i hate that.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Waste of time removing axle, didnt have to remove mine when changing all 18 studs and took about 6 hours, of course I didnt do it, mechanic did but still waste and wont really give much more space, just more work.

On the other hand on your tech help you forgot to mention to remove crossmember while having support for engine

dude88888

READ THE STICKIES. I did mine and it's not that hard.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Just extremely time CONSUMING especially when you dont have all the proper tools

gfnk357

I had the studs break on both sides of the engine, drove for 3 years with leaks and had them fixed last summer. One of the studs was bad enough the shop had to get a special tool to weld material onto the end of the stud so they could back it out. It cost about $400 to have done so it's not cheap. The owner also ran an aviation repair shop so he tried to get some titanium studs to put in but couldn't get them in time, would have been nice to never have them break again though.