I'm slowly getting closer to rounding up alot of the parts I want for my car, and the most important mod I want to do is a 5speed swap. I just got off the phone with the woman at the JY, and she told me that she heavily advised me to buy all my clutch-related components new, especially the hydraulic stuff, due to the risk/liability of old, outdoor-kept, JY parts. I'm not into a great deal of money right now, but I really really want to have this swap done before July if at all possible. Therefore I can't afford to get all the wonderful parts from Fidanza and other true performance companies that I've heard about, rather, I'd need some sort of good-enough-for-now OE-stle replacement parts that will get my car up and running on a 5speed, and then I could worry about replacing the shoddy local-auto-parts-store parts in about a year's time, with better parts, once my monies were in order.

Basically, the parts in question are (brands from www.Advanceautoparts.com):
-master cylinder (Tru Torque, Bendix, Raybestos, Beck/Arnley)
-clutch hose* (Raybestos... i'm not even sure that's the right hose though...)
-slave cylinder Tru Torque, Bendix, Raybestos, Beck/Arnley)
-clutch disc/pressureplate/throwout bearing (Perfection, Beck/Arnley, Fenco)
-release fork, if necessary? (Dorman, Motormite)
-Flywheel, if necessary (Pioneer Products, Standard Flywheels, Motormite)
-Pilot bushing (BCA Bearings, Motormite, Dorman)

*about the clutch hose.. does this look right http://www.partsamerica.com/product_.../bh38699-1.jpg?

OK now out of those brands and stuff, what's my best hope to get the car to work mostly-properly in 5speed format for about a year, until I can upgrade whatever of those parts need to be upgraded? I know Autozone and Advance Auto Parts are the work of Satan, and that they're not quality parts for the most part, but it's honestly the best I can do for right now.

 

If your short on $$ just grab the autozone clutch kit,mine has worked fine for 30,000 miles...The kits from most major autoparts stores come with the pilot bushing...

The oem flywheel[from the jy car] can be resurfaced for not too much $,or you can use some emory cloth from the parts store to scuff up the contact surface on the flywheel..<---Did this to mine,works fine with no chatter at all..

The slave cylinder hose pic you linked is the correct hose...

The relaese fork should be on your transmission,attached inside the bell housing..

I have a good used oem master cylinder and slave cylinder for sale if you want them..Cheap..

 

but there's no real quality difference from one brand to another? Beck/Arnley is the most expensive in all categories.

 

Well,yes..Beck/Arnley's clutch set is better than the cheaper sets...

I was refering to the cheapest clutch sets at any of the major autoparts stores...They are all about the same in quality...

 

So as long as the tranny I buy has a release fork, it's 99% chance in good shape, correct. Also there was a 5/91 before/after date difference on the master cylinders, I've got a 1990 car... but if I get a VE tranny do I get the 4/91&down one, or the 5/91&up one? On that note, your MCyl and SCyl that you have for sale are from a VE tranny I assume, correct?

 

Yes,mine are from a VE...

I am not sure of what exactly the differences are between the two master cylinders? I've read something about a 5/8" Bore; From 5/91..I assume this is the interal bore of the inside of the cylinder..But if you are doing a 5 speed swap from an auto,than this really shoudn't make any difference anyway...


I can post some pics of mine,if someone else can post pics of a pre 5/91 master cylinder unit,maybe we could see any physical differences in the two systems...

 

on the website...
TO 5/91
FROM 5/91

maybe it's got to do with the connection between pedal and pushrod... but ONLY one brand (Tru Torque) has that stipulation. The other 3 brands don't.

if I got Beck/Arnley all around for MCyl SCyl and clutch kit, and of course the only option for hose, Raybestos, subtotal would be $322.19...
if I buy your MCyl and SCyl it's $239.87 subtotal, plus whatver you charge for your MCyl and SCyl together (basically the subtotal changed by ~$82 when I took the 2 cylinders off.)

That'd take care of the clutchybits. Then I'd just need the shiftybits and a good writeup and I'd be stalling and bucking in no time (it would be my first stickshift car.. no problem, I've driven 4 different 5-speeds, just never owned one). I can get a tranny for ~$600 I think, maybe less, and the shiftrods and shifter and bushings and junk for $50-100 from the JY... plus the clutchybits, I can do this for under $1000? We'll have to see...

 

Well here is my master/slave...

 

I would recommend going to the junk yard and getting everything. Just inspect for excessive rust, busted boots, and associated leaks. Make a deal with them to allow you to pull everything for transmission for $X dollars and includes you being able to come back if missed something.

Wayne's particular about his parts and therefore his stuff is great and should be considered. I second getting used flywheel resurfaced. I even have a good stock flywheel. I'd also be prepared to replace the old axle boots too. Those are about $36 through Courtesy each. If you're lucky to find a 5sp parts car, you could get everything for about $300. IMO: Clutch and axle boots are the only things I'd buy new.
Addendum: DO NOT buy clutch from AutoZone/Advance/etc. Go with Nissan or Centerforce DF. Check group deals section for clutches. I had a Auto Zone clutch in two different vehicles; both lasted no longer than two years. One shattered, it was in a 4cyl Mazda truck....pathetic (clutch, not me or truck).

 

well if his price is good for the cylinders, then i'll get them since they're OEM and that's good. uhmm... the hose, how about that? pull from JY car or what? and by clutch i assume you mean a full disc/plate/bushing/alignmenttool/bearing set since it's not smart to reuse any of those and i wouldn't have a bushing or alignment tool to start with.

we'll see though, I haven't bought anything yet, the market is large. and that JY has no good trannies at it. just the hardware. so if I get those cyls and go and buy a clutch set, i'd only get the shifter and boot and rods from the JY since another member has a pedal ready to ship for me...

addendum to go with your addendum: I was planning on getting better stuff after a year anyhow, this is just to get the car running real quick. If it was only going to last 2 years it would have been replaced a year before then anyhow. Unless the savings are negligible I'd just as soon get a clutch that.. clutches, and then get a better one once I had a more stable money situation. But I really need the swap done by July, earlier if possible, and my income is pretty.. small. How much are these Nissan/Centerforce setups and again, just the disc or the whole 9 yards from Nissan/Centerforce? I'll recheck my axle boots but my vg axle boots looked to be in awesome shape last week. So if I get a VG tranny that shouldn't even be an issue, because they were soft and tear-free.

 

Yes, I do mean a full kit. There is a group deal going on for stock replacement clutches, Exedy about $150. Get a stock Nissan replacement for about $250. FYI, Courtesy has only one Clutch Master Cylinder listed between both VE and VG models per their website.

I recomend not trying to "hunt and peck." You're gonna need to make a list and check it off. Look for people who have most if not everything you need. Wayne has some stuff. I have some stuff (flywheel and used Centerforce DF) if you want. I also have a stock Nissan TO Bearing, clips, and alignment tool. As far as the clutch line, simply inspect the hoses. If metal apears to have a lot of rust and/or rubber seems to be moist/ have oil on it (grease not included), then you should probably stay away.

Hopefully when you stated another .org member is sending clutch pedal, he is including all mounting hardware and start over ride switch (at pedal). What about 5sp brake pedal?

Found this: http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=494880

 

The hoses you'll just pull from the donor car. I did that on mine and nforces car and its been fine.

I think I have an OEM clutch in my max. It came with the donor and has a very nice stiff pedal feel, and grabs good. It was brand new and had no miles on it when I bought the donor. Even the quality control stamp was still on the clutch disk....But if you want a cheap one, nForces exedy stage 1 was $130 and has a light pedal feel and grabs really well. Id probably go that route.

Like I told you on aim I know the complete list of parts you'll need.

For other new parts, get a rear main seal, axle seals, striking rod seal (where the shifter goes in) and reverse/neutral switch. Other then that you wont need any thing else.

If you stay with a VG-5 you can use your current axles.

Im actually using the MC/SC off the donor as well. They dont leak, but the MC is starting to squeak, so Im probably going to buy an oem one. I have a advance auto SC on my 240sx and its been on there for 10K miles and has held up great on the track. But in your case just grab greeny's setup and you'll be fine.

~Alex

 

That's because you drive like a crazy redneck..

 

I could use that list

 

The difference between the two is the rod length. I bought the wrong one for 91 and the rod was too long. I just cut off the excess and it has worked fine for years.

 

what's your price before shipping?