Yeah, that's pretty cool. Maybe I'll be doing that as soon as I get some new links

 

So I shouldn't send some of your crap that I still have laying around?

 

I have a Physics degree, but I'm not touching this... too much controversy

 

Go for it. I'd love to hear the thoughts of a physics geek.
(even if it makes me wrong... )

 

me thinks I need to scan some pages from "Chassis Engineering" by herb adams and "Handling! : What it is and how to get it" by Roland de Marcellus (9th edition)
Both are quite interesting reads.

 

Lets see it...

If you can help prove without a doubt to everyone that this does nothing to help the bar,then i will and take it off...

 

Like Matt said, as long as it isn't binding...



My only question is did you install it with the suspension loaded or unloaded?

 

For those of us who don't, what type of bushing is used?

 

jsut a "D" bushing as in those pics. I don't know the bar's diameter. measure, and go to autozone and buy a universal bushing or something.

 

Well,being i have a 1.6 inch drop,i had to install it with the car up on jackstands...

 

the joints are there for ride quality and drivability. Rigid bar + lots of wheel travel = binding.
yeah, that's how the torsional forces are applied to the sway bar.
The longer the "lever" the greater mechanical advantage meaning it's easier to twist the bar, so it would essentially decrease the spring rate of the bar. (assuming the center section of the bar stays in a fixed position)
Not so much triangulation, but using square (rectangular) tubing. Triangles would be inefficient here.

 

Ahem.

Well since this has nothing to do with relativity, radioactive decay, or the standard model, then this is only an estimate.

Without having numbers for the corner radius, bank angle, velocity, body stiffness, sidewall stiffness, and strut travel, its hard to make a judgment on the stress at that mount point for any specific conditions, so I’ll be general.

For the stock RSB, I do agree that the function of the bar is to predictably control the twist at the center, I don’t think that the center would travel much during this twisting, at most it would be a small fraction of the amount that the outer bushings can compress, they are using each other as the axis of rotation while resisting this twist.

With this mod, it seems to me that you would get more body roll coming from the rear, with the frame resisting this twist and redistributing the stress to the front suspension. Taking a sharp left turn will push the right rear wheel up relative to the body, the bar will then rotate around the axis of that mount point and push the rear left wheel down for more traction, hence the body roll because the rear left spring will be more than happy to take advantage of this and expand. If the bar does not have the strength to resist all this torque being exerted on it, it will bend at that mount point or destroy it, whichever takes less force. When you hit a dip or a speed bump, it seems to me that the mount point will function as a “3rd strut” and that doesn’t seem desirable.

Am I anywhere in the ballpark?

 

I just realized I looked at the wrong picture, and thought the OEM was replaced by a straight bar!

So disregard most of that. My opinion is that it will make no difference becuase there would be little to no travel at that center.

 

Ramps rule

 

actually I meant it only as a reference not to confirm or deny your impressions.

 

Free fix for ya..

 

2 post lift FTW

 

What the hell happened to my thread?
























Smells like MrGones been here..

 

ummmm not in this case.

 

You could always use the poor boy method I used in my write up.

http://www.4dsc.com/articles/suspens...co/addco.shtml

 

Great write up,read it years ago...

But what does installing the addco bar have to do with this?

And if you and gone are thinking that i completely tightened the end bolts on the rsb while car was still in the air...Think again.

I realize you are OG here,but i am not some 18 yr old kid that just bought his first tool set....I have been turning my own wrenches for 15+ years now and have a auto repair business based out my home for side work...

 

Unlicensed mechanic FTL!!!

Man I hate those guys.

 

ummmm how so?

 

Hi...My name is kettle,nice to meet you.....

 

You said you installed with your car on jackstands, I was showing you an alternate method.

I'm sure you used proper proceedure.

I don't use my "OG" status to beat up on anyone, trust me. And I'm far from knowing everything

 

I went to home depot and bought a 2x14" board and cut it (60* angle) to make some ramps (then jacked my car up and set it on them, because somehow that's easier than driving on them )
Jack up the car and watch the bar as you set the car back down, there is a reason why the factory mounts are designed to move.

If the bar is mounted in a fixed position (meaning the center part of the bar, the part that experiences the torsional forces does not move) the ends of the bar (attached to each wheel) will travel in an arch as the suspension moves through it's range of motion. To minimize the effects of this you would want to mount the bar with the car at it's driving height.

If the center part of the bar is allowed to move, like it is with the Maxima from the factory, then instead of the bar ends moving in an arch the center of the bar will simply move back and forth which gives you a smoother ride and gives you a greater range of motion before there is binding (at the expense that it is not as efficient in transferring the torsional forces to the bar).

So the Maximas stock mounts allow the bar to move back and forth. Wayne added a fixed mount which limits the bars movement (hence the improvement he noticed). The reason why I was asking if it was installed with the suspension loaded is the fixed mount in the center is now going to cause the ends to want to arch, and the factory mounts are going to want to make the middle of the bar move. Mounting the middle bushing with the car loaded will help keep these characteristics in a neutral state versus at the extremes (loaded vs. unloaded, hence my concerns with binding... but also the stock way bar is rather flexible and the end points use rubber bushings to mount, so there is room to play).

I wouldn't be surprised if when loaded, the sway bar is pushing toward the rear of the bushing Wayne installed.

So because a two post lift unloads the suspension it would not be useful.

 

I still prefer the lift. I like working at any height convenient to me :P