Matt's Stage II LTB
#41
I've scraped mine countless times. I often scrape over speed bumps (going slowly) much to the disdain of my passengers, but I've also scraped harshly at high speeds (100+) back when I had my struts on soft. Upon inspection I've determined that the bar is close to bulletproof. The bottom has been flattened by a mm or so but it's functionally the same.
This was on a 4th gen lowered ~2", so YMMV, although not by much.
This was on a 4th gen lowered ~2", so YMMV, although not by much.
#42
How fast are you going over speedbumps to do that? I've never scraped on a speed bump, as it requires a large amount of suspension compression to do- which tells me you were going pretty durn fast over said bumps. but hey, your shocks, not mine.
Also note the 4th gen bar does fit a bit lower than the 3 gen bar, due to the constraints of the 4th gen subframe.
Also note the 4th gen bar does fit a bit lower than the 3 gen bar, due to the constraints of the 4th gen subframe.
#43
Originally Posted by Matt93SE
....it's stronger than you think, but it's still not strong enough to cause suspension damage if you hit the bar on something nasty.
IOW grabbing hold of a bump and turning your wheel? and at highway speeds thats all it could take.
I plan on doing this mod , i just dont want an increased chance of wipe out.
#44
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Realize he's parked on grass. the grass is sticking up 2-3" past where concrete would be.
The stage I is just as low as the stage II. the lowest point is the same on both bars.
That said, I've scraped mine on occasion, but only when I'm doing something stupid. only about twice have I scraped it on unseen dips in the highway. the rest of the time, it's been on times where I knew I should have slowed down but didn't. It still did nothing more than scratch the powdercoating off the bar. it's stronger than you think, but it's still not strong enough to cause suspension damage if you hit the bar on something nasty.
The stage I is just as low as the stage II. the lowest point is the same on both bars.
That said, I've scraped mine on occasion, but only when I'm doing something stupid. only about twice have I scraped it on unseen dips in the highway. the rest of the time, it's been on times where I knew I should have slowed down but didn't. It still did nothing more than scratch the powdercoating off the bar. it's stronger than you think, but it's still not strong enough to cause suspension damage if you hit the bar on something nasty.
#45
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Originally Posted by traxtar944
dude thats CRAZY low to the ground. I get 3" with my stage one, and just the other day I slammed into some asphalt on an uneven road and bent it. I had to straighten it using a car jack wedged between the LTB and the sway bar...not fun. I still can't get the bar to a point that a socket will fit into those tubes. Your bar looks like it gets only like an inch of clearance from the ground! I've been to Indy and the roads are NOT good at all.
#46
Originally Posted by GRNMAXDMON
the streets in miami are worse than indy's. as for the socket fitting in there what you can do is just grind it down with a grinding stone to get rid of the powder coat layer cuz thats what i did and it fits fine.
alright I'll just do that...I just didn't want to grind down a socket. Oh well... and yeah I thought it looked low even with the grass, but if it's no diff than the stage one then it's not too bad. I still can't pass over a solo cup without dragging it along the ground...I just found that one out this weekend. Does anyone know offhand the size of the socket that the LTB uses? I think it's like 22mm or something, but I'm not sure. Plus, I'm lazy right now....work is hard.
Matt, I know you're an engineer....do you have any dealings with International Truck & Engine? I'm working there right now doing prototype design work for V8 turbo diesels, and am getting some GREAT ideas for rigging something up on a gasoline car. Probably not my max, but who knows. Either way, I have access to the machine shop, and after talking to a few guys in that department might be able to get some fabrication time in if I come on a weekend. I'm already having hubcentric rings and the rear brackets for a BBK made.
#47
Originally Posted by Prophecy99
That being said, is the bar known at all to have any (freak) ocurances of causing loss of control while hitting something on the highway?
IOW grabbing hold of a bump and turning your wheel? and at highway speeds thats all it could take.
I plan on doing this mod , i just dont want an increased chance of wipe out.
IOW grabbing hold of a bump and turning your wheel? and at highway speeds thats all it could take.
I plan on doing this mod , i just dont want an increased chance of wipe out.
How is a statically mounted bar that does not interact with your steering at all going to turn your wheel as a result of a bump?
#48
Originally Posted by Prophecy99
That being said, is the bar known at all to have any (freak) ocurances of causing loss of control while hitting something on the highway?
IOW grabbing hold of a bump and turning your wheel? and at highway speeds thats all it could take.
I plan on doing this mod , i just dont want an increased chance of wipe out.
IOW grabbing hold of a bump and turning your wheel? and at highway speeds thats all it could take.
I plan on doing this mod , i just dont want an increased chance of wipe out.
If you're going over bumps and the wheel is turning, then you have a bumpsteer issue. your car is lowered too much. fix the steering geometry (by going to a race shop and paying them $$$) or by raising the car up a bit.
#49
Originally Posted by traxtar944
Matt, I know you're an engineer....do you have any dealings with International Truck & Engine? I'm working there right now doing prototype design work for V8 turbo diesels, and am getting some GREAT ideas for rigging something up on a gasoline car. Probably not my max, but who knows. Either way, I have access to the machine shop, and after talking to a few guys in that department might be able to get some fabrication time in if I come on a weekend. I'm already having hubcentric rings and the rear brackets for a BBK made.
but umm yeah. sounds like a great place to work. keep learning from the old guys out there. they can teach you much more useful and practical stuff than your books at skool ever will. I learned more from the engineers in the shop than I did in 7 years of engineering skool
#50
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Matt, i have a buddy who works for Nissan and he wants to know if your Stage II LTB will fit his '93 Sentra SE-R. after he saw mine, he fell in love with it and he wants one since he is going turbo and he wants to make his suspension sturdy and responsive. he already has poly-urethane bushings all the way around the car but want a Stage II LTB. let me know.
#53
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actually, my O2 sensor goes over the LTB but forgot to connect it before installing the part so i had no choice but connect it after i installed it but i still have enough ground clearance so no scraping.
#54
Originally Posted by James92SE
I mean decreasing interior noises (squeaks, rattles, etc). It would also decrease the 'shudder' a car experiences when hitting bumps and whatnot. I'm not sure why you think SFC's wouldnt make a car more compliant, rattle free, less noisy, etc. The body flex you speak of is IMO exactly what would make a car 'shudder' over bumps and lead to squeaking and rattles.
Auto manufacturers boast all the time about how much more 'stiff' their chassis' or frames are and tout that it cuts down on noise, the car handles better over bumps, the 'shudder' is gone, car is more compliant, etc.
I'm too lazy to search the posts out, but everything I've read from Maxima owners who installed SFC's reported everything I've said.
*Edit* Quote from irish44:
2. Ride quality: Previously, when hitting any bump, big or small, the car would have a tendacy to "shudder" and feel a bit uncomposed - and it would be worse the bigger the bump. With the SFCs on, bumps basically just come off as a "thud" and the car no longer vibrates or shudders as it did. This was the most noticeable improvement in the SFCs, hands down. Also, interior rattles on rough roads are almost entirely eliminated, which is very nice.
Auto manufacturers boast all the time about how much more 'stiff' their chassis' or frames are and tout that it cuts down on noise, the car handles better over bumps, the 'shudder' is gone, car is more compliant, etc.
I'm too lazy to search the posts out, but everything I've read from Maxima owners who installed SFC's reported everything I've said.
*Edit* Quote from irish44:
2. Ride quality: Previously, when hitting any bump, big or small, the car would have a tendacy to "shudder" and feel a bit uncomposed - and it would be worse the bigger the bump. With the SFCs on, bumps basically just come off as a "thud" and the car no longer vibrates or shudders as it did. This was the most noticeable improvement in the SFCs, hands down. Also, interior rattles on rough roads are almost entirely eliminated, which is very nice.
To add....the longer I have the SFCs, the more I feel that they are a great mod - one I should have done a long, long time ago. They make my tired 5th gen feel like a much newer car, and I can only imagine what they'd do for a 3rd gen!
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