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Max Won't Start, Error Code 33

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Old 10-28-2007, 07:04 AM
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Max Won't Start, Error Code 33

Hello. Over the last week my car (93 Max SE, 212k miles) was having difficulty starting. Sometimes it would start fine and others I would turn the key and get nothing. It has gotten worse and now won't start at all. I checked the ecu for error codes and I got code 33 which of course relates to the oxygen sensor. Would a bad O2 sensor cause my car to not start?
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Old 10-28-2007, 10:49 AM
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no, a bad o2 will have your car run rich. I n fact the o2 does not kick in till it heats up. You may have a vacuum leak or a bad ecu
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Old 10-28-2007, 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
no, a bad o2 will have your car run rich. I n fact the o2 does not kick in till it heats up. You may have a vacuum leak or a bad ecu
Umm..no

Vacuum leaks will not cause a no start condition,also if he had a bad ecu(which is extremely rare on the 3rd gen maxima) then his car would most likely not start at all.


Originally Posted by redline13
Hello. Over the last week my car (93 Max SE, 212k miles) was having difficulty starting. Sometimes it would start fine and others I would turn the key and get nothing. It has gotten worse and now won't start at all. I checked the ecu for error codes and I got code 33 which of course relates to the oxygen sensor. Would a bad O2 sensor cause my car to not start?
When you say "not start" do you mean the starter is not engaging(clicking sound),or the engine will start when the starter is turning the engine over?
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Old 10-28-2007, 05:08 PM
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sorry to divert attention here, im wondering, do you use an ODB2 reader to read error codes on a 3rd gen, or do you need an odb1 or something older?
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Old 10-28-2007, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty124
sorry to divert attention here, im wondering, do you use an ODB2 reader to read error codes on a 3rd gen, or do you need an odb1 or something older?
Start reading all the stickies please,and no more thread jacking to ask questions,you have 15 posts now.

http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...4&postcount=19
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Old 10-28-2007, 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by MyGreenMax94
Umm..no

Vacuum leaks will not cause a no start condition,also if he had a bad ecu(which is extremely rare on the 3rd gen maxima) then his car would most likely not start at all.




When you say "not start" do you mean the starter is not engaging(clicking sound),or the engine will start when the starter is turning the engine over?
The starter is not engaging. I still have electrical power (the radio, etc. still work) but when I turn the key I get nothing. Could the starter have died on me so fast?
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Old 10-28-2007, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by redline13
The starter is not engaging. I still have electrical power (the radio, etc. still work) but when I turn the key I get nothing. Could the starter have died on me so fast?
How old is the starter? where did you get it?

If it is a autozone/advanced starter,it may be defective,both companies have a lifetime warranty on their starters IIRC..so if you got it from either store,remove it and have them test it..
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Old 10-29-2007, 09:20 AM
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Turn on the headlights and try the starter. If the headlites go out or dim radically then it may be the battery or alternator (may explain codes). If not and you don't get the starter turning or even a click from the solenoid, then it's the starter. Luckily the starter on these is easy to remove.
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Old 10-29-2007, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 92 Max
Turn on the headlights and try the starter. If the headlites go out or dim radically then it may be the battery or alternator (may explain codes). If not and you don't get the starter turning or even a click from the solenoid, then it's the starter. Luckily the starter on these is easy to remove.
I am going to have another look when I get home from work and I will try that. The car still has full electrical power so I am leaning toward the starter being. toast. I don't know it's age so I am going to assume it's the same age as the car.

I usually do my own work on my cars but I no longer have a drive way. The car is parked on the street and I am not crazy about annoying my neighbors and working on it in the road. With that said though I may end up going that route. The alternative is having it towed to a nearby garage.

My repair manual is at home and I am at work. How difficult is removing and replacing the starter? If I remember it's located underneath or nearby the air filter correct? To refresh your memory this is on a 93 SE. Thanks!
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Old 10-29-2007, 11:45 AM
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Reagarding ECU: It will start and run with a bad ECU, but it will stall if you go into gear. My ECU did this. It goes into a failsafe mode.

If your starter is bad, you should still hear the relay click. If its not clicking, then you need a jump or a new battery to even try the starter. Its possible you drained it during multiple starting attempts.

To change the starter on the SE Auto, remove air intake and move it out of the way. There are 2 12mm bolts holding it, or possibly 14mm, cant remember. You also need to remove a nut that holds a power connector, and unplug a harness. If you have a 5-spd, then I think its a bit different, but others can help.

Not sure about code 33 though, you may have to deal with that after dealing with the starter.
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Old 10-29-2007, 12:51 PM
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Before we condemn the starter, let's try a few simple things. You didn't mention if your max is auto or standard, but if it is auto, try wiggling the shifter, especially toward the front of the car, a tap or two and see if that gets it to start. If that doesn't do anything, then you should check the terminals at the starter. Make sure you have good battery terminal connections, and a good clean ground. Make sure the signal wire at the starter is getting +12V with the key turned to start. If it isn't, try turning the key on, and jumping from the battery terminal to the signal terminal. If that gets it running, then check your neutral safety switch, and / or clutch switch to see if one has gone bad. If both check out, and you still aren't getting voltage to the signal terminal, it could be a bad ignition switch. If you ARE getting 12v to the signal terminal, and it isn't starting, check the battery to be sure it is fully charged, recharge as needed. If everything else checks out, then pull the starter, and have it tested.
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Tquick
Before we condemn the starter, let's try a few simple things. You didn't mention if your max is auto or standard, but if it is auto, try wiggling the shifter, especially toward the front of the car, a tap or two and see if that gets it to start. If that doesn't do anything, then you should check the terminals at the starter. Make sure you have good battery terminal connections, and a good clean ground. Make sure the signal wire at the starter is getting +12V with the key turned to start. If it isn't, try turning the key on, and jumping from the battery terminal to the signal terminal. If that gets it running, then check your neutral safety switch, and / or clutch switch to see if one has gone bad. If both check out, and you still aren't getting voltage to the signal terminal, it could be a bad ignition switch. If you ARE getting 12v to the signal terminal, and it isn't starting, check the battery to be sure it is fully charged, recharge as needed. If everything else checks out, then pull the starter, and have it tested.


Please allow me to but in here with a related question....My car, coincidentally a '93, with about 212K won't start either. I have replaced the starter....My car is a manual, and I CAN push-start it, but it dies when I let the engine fall below 2000 RPM....ECU?
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
Reagarding ECU: It will start and run with a bad ECU, but it will stall if you go into gear. My ECU did this. It goes into a failsafe mode.
Yeah, as I stated above, my car does this when it's in gear, below 2000 RPM..prior to its complete failure, it was blowing the ECU (dash) fuse as well.
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Old 10-29-2007, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by blackandwhite
Yeah, as I stated above, my car does this when it's in gear, below 2000 RPM..prior to its complete failure, it was blowing the ECU (dash) fuse as well.
Is the red led on the ECU always on? Thats one of the symptoms, others are radiator fans always on, and check engine light always on.
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Old 10-29-2007, 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
Is the red led on the ECU always on? Thats one of the symptoms, others are radiator fans always on, and check engine light always on.
I haven't seen the ECU, but I'll check...I have never seen the check engine light on
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Old 11-01-2007, 01:03 PM
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Hi guys. The starter was the culprit in my car. I replaced it and I am up and running. Thanks for the info.
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