Whats a carrier bearing bracket?

It holds the longer passenger side axle at about the middle point.

when did it start needing the carrier?
that is on VG A/T to M/T swaps I thought.
ECU does not need to be swapped.
you can hybridize the axles to leave the hubs in place.

Meh, I thought the vg mt/ve mt brackets were slightly different.


But it's much easier and less messy imo to just simply swap the ve hubs over from the donor car.

not if you have an axle shop hybridize it for you.
the big issue then is that you can't buy an off the shelf ale for it ever again.

one of the biggest reasons most prefer to swap hubs as well. most parts stores can get them pretty quick. how long does it take for a shop to essentially rebuild "new" axles.(and whats the price difference before core charge)

my original question was regarding swaping a ve m/t in place of a vg m/t and what mods were needed or if they will bolt straight up

during wayne and mine banter the information is there

ok thanks

I have a 92 SE, when I bought the car it had (and still has) a small draw on the battery. The small lights around the ignition, and the key hole on the drivers door are always on, the security light flashes all the time, dome light on, and when the cars running the door ajar light stays on. Im thinking its a door switch but if you all have any other ideas or know what it is please let me know..Thanks

what the crap is hy..bri..diz..e ???

The vg axles/spindles are smaller then the ve axles(29 spline vg/31 spline ve IIRC)


You can swap the outer cv joints on the vg axles to the ve outer axle= hybrid axles

But most people that swap the ve trans into the vg also swap the ve hub/spindle assemblies over.

Is there a write up somewhere that can explain to me how to fix the rear speakers so they work now that my aftermarket HU is installed? My car has the "active speaker system" Please help me...thanks guys

Yup, sounds like one of the door switches has broken.

This thread should help--> http://forums.maxima.org/showthread.php?t=399237

Do you know of a way to test them to find out which one it is?

take each out and check continuity.

using a multimeter, test each switch. if you have a diode tester(with a tone generator) itll beep when you test switches with the meter the bad one will still have a connection when you push the button.(this will require removing each individual one, and testing.) id start with the driver door, because its the most used. however, i have a problem with the passenger rear so as to which one it will be.


(first link in after i googled it)
http://www.thefreedictionary.com/hybridize

+1

My guess is it's going to be obvious when you start looking at the door switches= i think one of them is going to be physically broken.

Also note that if you go to a JY to get switches, 89-91 is different than 92-94. How do I know this you ask. I tried to take the switches out of my 92 donor car and they are different than my 90.

how many posts do i need before i can make my own thread becuz i have some information that might be helpful

one less than you have(15)...

does anyone know if 18x8.5 rims will fit in my 92 se ???

sure, depending on backspacing/offset(unsure what would clear, and this may be fixed using spacers)

K, i have a quick question, but probably not unusual....i saw some nissan Z wheels, 17s with tires that were for sale....will they fit our 3rd gens, and more importantly, would they look right on our cars if they weren't lowered?? (i kno that last part is more opininated but yeah)

yes and no

I have a 1993 Nissan Maxima, just had the transmission rebuilt last year, 76,000 miles on the motor... Automatic...

When It's in park, it makes like a squeeling noise from the transmission... It jerks into second as well... Reverse makes sounds too... Is my transmission going out?

http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....812&highlight=

some info there. there was alot of arguing and bickering too. but i think something there may be helpful to you.

I need some expert advice fellow org members. This is my 1st time posting being that I usually read for hours on in about my maxima gxe here on this forum... had many plans and what not but as of today that came to a halt, i think. Im trying to get ready for inspection and all so took my car to pep-boys to get my rotars turned (looked like they needed to be to me) but anyways come to find out all brakes, rotars and tires are just fine but instead im slammed with an estimated bill of $1,500 to fix steering problems and various leaks dealing with the steering (which i didnt know i had) here is what they said i needed replace, keep in mind i dont have the slightest clue what some of this is lol (im newbie tinkering around trying to learn hands on)

R&R F control arm lower, Both - $208
Lower control arm **BAP -$170
Control arm lower **BAP -$170 (isnt this the same peice form above? mistake maybe?)
RMN Complt back assy reman RAC -$170
R&R steering gear includes:Ad - $288
power steering flush pkg - $48
Reman pump w/o RESVR reman P/S -$99
pressure hose ps16226 power ST-$24
return hose power steering HOS- $8
R&R power steering hose all HO -$96
R&R power steering pump include -$78
power steering flush package -$48

thinking of going to get a second opinion from some other autoshop , not sure if pepboys is trying to make a fortune off of me on stuff i dont need.
i was pretty crushed about this being that this bill is how much i payed for the car (129k miles 94 gxe)and i thought that was the end of my maxi =( , im a working college student on a budget also. Exactly how bad is this problem? is it something i can fix overtime in the next few weeks? If so whats 1st priority? still trying to keep hope alive, help pls!

question for you.
#.) do you constanly put steering fluid in your car(more than once every few months)?

if so, hell yes those prices are bogus.
im curious why they would have to flush a brand new(they just installed) steering system?

if not, then most of that crap is not needed.

havent touched steering fluid since i got her about a month ago. fell in love with it but this all is just crushing =( didnt seem to be needing any fuild but i only glanced at that while i was doing my new intake about 2weeks ago. any ideas? i have inspection this coming tuesday.... this all sukx hardcore so much other stuff i could do with 1,500 (fuel injectors, timing belt, rims ect...)

i would keep an eye on the steering fluid level. if its pretty static, change the control arms(both, I suggest this place) as well as the rear bushings (energy suspension 7.3117, available at most places) timing belt(all belts and water pump, etc). are your shocks okay? may consider those.

ill do that =) and im going to take it somewhere else see if they come up with the same diagnostic. from what your saying in your post i assume this is something i can fix over time.

ty for the advice man and if anyone has anymore wisdom to shine on this that would be cool.

P.S
What about the all the hoses i listed?

only real reason to replace them is if they are leaking.

So i have heard that e36 headlights swap into 3rd gens...exactly how is that done...and is any fabrication required...and what about the e36 taillights will they swap into a 3rd gen with out fabrication??

http://www.geocities.com/bmwconversion/

and i dont think that the taillights will swap without major body work.

I have an immediate problem with my 91 Automatic GXE. I was removing the center console in order to fix the broken cubby hole, which I've done before without any problem. This time I wasn't thinking straight, and started to unscrew the shift ****, because I (wrongly) thought it would be in the way of removing the console. After I removed the two of the three screws on the shifter, the side button that you press on the **** when changing gears popped out, and I can't get it back in. It has a spring attached to it, and it looks like something inside the **** itself has to be pushed down before the button will go back in. I'm afraid of breaking something. How do I put the **** back together, so I can drive? I can't even drive it to a mechanic.
Not so immediate problem: I just had new front struts put on but my car still bounces (mostly from side to side) if I pushy down on the bumper. The mechanic said that maybe I need to replace the front coils plus the rear struts. I wish he hadn't said "maybe" because I'd like to be sure before I spend the money. Could it be another problem, or can someone recommend a good Maxima mechanic in San Diego or Mexico? Thanks.

Shift **** problem solved.

Can someone please give me instructions on how to remove the parking brake cable on a 94 GXE?