Idling Air Control Valve.
Have not done it myself yet but it seems easy. Have a look here : http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/4

I would try a coolant temp sensor first, if the third gen had an intake temp sensor I'd say try that, but it doesn't IIRC

sounds like failing injectors to me.
but I would check the coolant sensor as well. it is often ignored and does more than people think it does. kind of like shocks.
nope

Idle Air Control Valve
remove, use elbow grease, gasket reinstall

very interesting that you mention that. Now that I looked this morning, it appears instead of 3, theres only TWO. Yes, two. The one that goes around the power steering pump and the water pump pulley is, um, gone. Which means I need a new one.....

Anyone still think it's worthwhile to replace the thermostat? Anything else maybe?

I threw a couple pics on http://picasaweb.google.com/Xstang55/UntitledAlbum if anyone is interested to see. The first shot shows the pulley off to the left (water pump) thats missing the belt, and the 2nd shot shows the two hoses I replaced, along with the ps reservoir that started puking fluid after the hose blew.

you might want to make sure your engine is OK. how many miles did you drive it between the PS failing and the hose blowing up? that whole time your coolant was sitting still. That means that your engine overheated SEVERELY.

Well, just a couple of miles, really - maybe 5 minutes driving time. I just dropped it off to have the drive belt replaced, so we'll see how that helps.

well if it heated up enough to blow the hose, and heated up THAT FAST to blow the hose in that fashion, then you may have lingering problems. not a guarantee that you will, because these engines are pretty tough, but sudden temperature changes warp are more warp-happy than slow gradual heat changes. tho you never want to drive any distance on an overheated motor. at least you didn't go very far.

Maxima.org is a valuable resource to maxima tuners, enthusiasts and individuals with a low budget or no budget to repair, maintain and revive their daily driver like mine. I'd like to apologize for any reposts but here's a "short version" you're going to hate me already, of the many repairs and unresolved issues with this maxima. This is a 1990 i'm dealing with here and it's been beaten to death no telling how many people have abused this poor VG but it still runs relatively good aside from the oil leaks in the engine, burning oil/smoking, synthetic gear-oil continuously leaking from the transaxle and clacking at high rpm and a few seconds after start up.<-- I thought this was only an issue with the VE? Still after I put the complete OEM brakes, new calipers/rotors, pads etc. salvaged from my wrecked '94 SE and the ABS sensors which seemed to be in good shape, the ABS malfunction light is permanently lit up? I also put new part I bought in 2006 from the '94... the eibach pro 1.5" lowering springs tokico HP struts (with brand new rubber bumpers and boots from NAPA for all 4) about $150.00- 2 front monroe strut mount bearings from checker auto parts $80 also- (the rubber is already separating from them) I also used the rear hubs/strut mount assembly off the '94 I didn't want to deal with pulling the tokico cartridges out and re-loading them etc. Full exaust off the '94 replaced cat with a 3" ebay test-pipe/cat-resonator for '03 maxima, removed the factory resonator replaced with 3" stainless tubing back to the dual tipped oval style muffler sounds very deep and performs very well with the re-usable FRAM imitation of the K&N factory replacement air filter. Replaced the old cv-axles with some new remanfactured ones, I think some seals are broken or missing where they insert into the transaxle idk. I installed 2 new front lower control arms, this is some very useful information could be a thread of it's own... to do this I had to twist the old arms until the rubber completly disintegrated and I could pull them forward and get them off exposing the metal bushing/bearing, using a large pair of plyers with sharp teeth I removed the excess rubber by twisting until there was only the metal exposed being careful not to damage the threads of the bolt. I then heated the metal with a micro torch and used a really solid antique pipe-wrench/monkey-wrench I borrowed from the elderly people next door, I kept applying heat and liquid wrench to break them loose. Then I had modify a brand new and very expensive bearing puller to get them off needless to say the installation of the new control arms was a piece of cake. <-- very long and detailed my apologies but this car is rusted out soo badly there are holes under and behind the rear seat the sheet-metal has rusted completely through the wheel wells in some spots! <--Does this affect rear body roll and strut performance? Also there are exaust leaks on or near the factory manifold(s) not sure becuase I can't see beneath the heat-shields, is this a cracked manifold or leaky gasket? It makes the car sound weak. Just hit a over 200,000 miles, and from what I know it hadn't had the oil changed for about 6 years before I took it under my wing. I've changed it twice in the last 600 miles and it runs alright I think I made a mistake by adding CD-2 to the mix though idk? What I really need to know is can I tune-up this VG without tearing it apart and repair the exaust leak to keep it running until I can buy a well maintained maxima? I'm not good with internal engine work, I just don't have the time to learn how-to overhaul an engine. Plus I don't really want to tear apart the only car I have to drive and screw it up then have nothing to drive. Can I do something simple like take the valve covers off and tighten some bolts or replace the timing belt without pulling the engine or a lot of very sophisticated tuning/adjustment. Once again sorry for the long-a$$ essay but all the advice possible would be appreciated. Real feedback and useful information only.

I don't claim to be a mechanic, just mechanically inclined.
So, yeah I know what I'm doing. P.S. I miss my '94 \=0[>

90 = VG not VE
if the ABS light is on then pull the code
oy my head hurts

Oh ****, I suffer from mechanical dyslexia it's just random not sure why I typed them incorrectly? I honestly do know the difference I've owned one of each.

I've already talked to the dealership, any place I've called said "It's too old for the diagnostics machine" I would get the same response in reference to my '94. What is compatible with the wiring harness in the '90? How do I get the codes and decipher the issue. Obviously the data's retrieveable. How many codes will stay stored in the computer and for how long?


Seems I had a little too much coffee this afternoon, I appear a little hyperactive to say the least.

FYI I would like to donate to the org but seriously I can't even afford to buy gas hopefully that does'nt affect my ability to get some useful info from the community.

look in the stickies for directions on how to pull the ABS codes.

a)check the stickies for code pulling.
b)I love coffee :wired2thegillz:
c)don't bother "donating" or whatever they are calling it now. Its owned by a company making enough off the ads to support the hosting. everything you need is available to you except the cool pics underneath your italicized name.

Thanks for the response yup coffee is good gotta have that caffiene I use about 3x amount, like drinkin straight esspresso my girl gets pissed because she'll buy the fancy organic/fair-trade stuff and doesn't get any hahaha.

I'm going to post a pic tomorrow or the next day of this frankenbeast of a maxima but in the mean time what do I do about the exaust leak, tuning up for the VG and dealing with the leaky transaxle? or would it be worth the time to swap out the LSD transaxle salvaged from the 1994?
I know, I know check out the stickies. lol thanks guys

well putting a VLSD auto on any car that didn't have it already is a chore (though i know a member who is trying to figure out how to do it) but if you mean a VLSD manual then yea it's probably a good idea to put it in if you've got it handy. i knost most members on here that don't have the VLSD manual prolly want it (unless their lifestyle makes m/t too much trouble, ie kids, traffic etc)

Yeah it's a manual VLSD and I have the axles and hubs for it too, also has a centerforce stage 1 clutch system and performance throw out bearing in it. If I decide not to do the swap what could I sell it for?

I need a 92-94 SE driver side taillight, anyone?

where can i buy some coils for my VE?
is there any aftermarkets or do i have to go to the dealers?
most of mines are cracked

Thanks!

Thanks to those who replied to my questions I'm going to get on those fixes after my vacation. But I have a few more questions

1. Will the GReddy SP2 Catback fit a 93 GXE?

2. Are there any 300zx NA engine parts that will fit my VG since its the same engine?

Hope these aren't repeats Thanks!!

EDIT: 3. I'm a college student which means fast food day/night and I need CUP HOLDERS!!
Has anyone added these? If so how do they look with the interior

Thanks again

Used is one option.
dealer or aftermarket are VERY close in pricing.

Here's a pic of some coils I pulled from what LOOKED like a nicely cared for Maxima SE. Of course that's not the case with ALL 14+ year old SEs I'm sure.



I put a complete new set in mine 6 years ago. IIRC, the price difference between Courtesy Nissan and O'Rielly Auto was about $5/coil. And if I remember right, one only had rear coils in stock and the other only had fronts in stock. Still, the price for a complete new set was right around $300 when all was said and done.

Also, you'll have to move the little rubber spring/booty from the old coil to the new coil on style. I can't remember if it was dealer or aftermarket that didn't come with them.

aftermarket for sure doesn't include them and they are about 70-75 each dealer or aftermarket

i have a 94 maxima that i just hit 89k miles in and my steering is making a noise everytime i turn but not a knocking like the cv joints or anything. my steering suspension said its not my rack and pinion but it sounds like it. he told me there is air in my powersteering and there must be a special way to bleed and for me to look it up. but i dont know where to look it up so hopefully someone can help me out

I have a set of coils from my '94 there are no cracks but they do have a little of the rust color like the ones in the pic posted do.

usually just turning the wheel back and forth a few times will circulate the fluid enough to bleed it. maybe you have some leaky seals inside your pump? is it like, whining?

can you describe the sound, and also, how it affects the steering performance? i'm guessing a rebuilt PS pump is all you need.

I have a 94 v6 maxima it will go into reverse but not drive can anyone help?

I am sorry, there are over 1,000 posts in this thread. which one are you referring to?(use the "quote" button, please...thanx)

Sorry man new at this stuff can u give me any help haha

does putting it in 2 or L make it go foward at all, or nothing works at all in the forward ranges?

np, mang. we all do it(or have done it.) it isn't as serious as the caps lock thing(do not type in caps. it "means" YELLING!!!!!, see?)

[QUOTE=benstoked;6418952]np, mang. we all do it(or have done it.) it isn't as serious as the caps lock thing(do not type in caps. it "means" YELLING!!!!!, see?)[/QUOTE

or if you backspace the end ] thing off the word "quote" it makes you look dumb too. see?

time for a new transmission

Hey guys. I just got an 89. Where is a good place to get parts for it. I checked ebay and they don't seem to have very much.

what kind of parts? replacement for worn/broken stuff, or aftermarket performance stuff? there's a "general mod info" sticky up there too

Both oem and aftermarket

how many miles n how much?

approx. 120,000 I'm sure they are the original coils. make an offer or I'll trade for a drivers side taillight for a 92-94 SE and a set of turn signals for the front bumper.

as caped said are you looking for stock replacement parts? or "performance" parts?

wow 120k with no cracks
my ride is only 100k n they all cracked
umm sorry i dont have those items
but its kinda risky buy it with those kinda of miles
id rather got new
sorry

They are in good condition though could be the climate here not sure? my '94 always ran good so they should be good right? They aren't being used for anything what I've heard the coils never really go bad If you want them make an offer otherwise they collect dust or go to storage no diff to me. I just bought the taillight off ebay so I'm good on that, anyone with a set of bumper/turn signal lights? I have some misc. parts I salvaged off my '94 before it went to the steel yard, maybe something I could trade for a set?

I've been considering what you guys have said about using NGKs and I think I may just go ahead and give them a shot if I can find some locally.

I'm even thinking I may be better off with copper because I know platinum doesn't mix with n2o or boost and as many times as I've told myself that the maxima is front wheel drive and I'm keeping it NA I sometimes think I'd like to slap on a small turbo or a 100 shot of nitrous and see if I can scare some hondas at the strip.

So does anyone know where I can find NGKs without ordering them online? Which plugs would you recommend? I am more than willing to shell out a good bit to get the most reliable and versatile plug seeing as the boschs apparently aren't it. If I could get a plug today that will work great today and with gapping could handle a turbocharged VG with about lets say 300-325hp just fine or just the stock motor with a 100 shot I'd like to go ahead and get it just in case I do go ahead and try to make some record quarter miles with the max.

Also while I'm asking potentially annoying questions is there any reason the Maxima's compression ratio is so low? I read somewhere that its like 9:1 and I was pretty sure there were cars out there that ran on regular unleaded with 10:1 or 11:1. Is the maxima's timings just really tight or something? I don't have a whole lot of experience with this kind of thing but if I could make the maxima a bit more fuel efficient and powerful at the same time by getting some higher compression pistons till when/if I go ahead and do forced induction I'd like to.

edit: I've been asking about performance mufflers for a while so any suggestions there? How about wheels? I don't want to buy any that are going to be easily damaged cosmetically or functionally....I'm thinking some 17"s with the tires that make the speedometer only .1% wrong. I doubt that would hurt the ride comfortability right?

well the 9:1 is very good for boosting. the VE is 10:1 actually. So if you up your compression, get another engine ready on the side for your turbo build, but i don't know if it's worth it, as much double-work as you'd have to do. unless you make a high compression engine and just run slight boost. not very many VEs have been boosted that i know of. but there's a few 300WHP VGs out there and a handful at or very near 400whp.

and any place that DOESN'T have NGKs probably won't be very profitable... they are very common as standard equipment on many new cars.