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Hey dennismik thanks for the awesome response--havent been able to reply til now
So i have auto climate control--i did the self diagnostics test and everything seemed to work fine. Although there was a code for 25 (sunload sensor) mind you i was doing the diagnostics while its dark. Ill dig a little deeper into the link you sent--thanks a lot for that btw!
It still blasts the defrost when the key turns. Ill keep looking but wanted to thank u for the insight.
Can you change the air to blow out of other outlets or is it stuck in defrost mode?
im new on here I have a 1994 Nissan maxima se 5-speed (ve30de) v6 im having all kind of electrical problems. first speedo stopped working, only the gas gauge was working. couple of days later my sunroof went out then a week later I was driving and the engine turned off on me. I got the car back home it set for a week we thought it was the alternator but I had full power my system still played lights still work fuel pump still worked, we took off the alternator replaced it with a new one battery as well and I haven't got power inside the car ever since only thing that works is the headlights
im new on here I have a 1994 Nissan maxima se 5-speed (ve30de) v6 im having all kind of electrical problems. first speedo stopped working, only the gas gauge was working. couple of days later my sunroof went out then a week later I was driving and the engine turned off on me. I got the car back home it set for a week we thought it was the alternator but I had full power my system still played lights still work fuel pump still worked, we took off the alternator replaced it with a new one battery as well and I haven't got power inside the car ever since only thing that works is the headlights
For starters have you gone through and checked all of your fuses?
for starters have you gone through and checked all of your fuses?
yea replaced all main fuses and relays. Im guessing i need to start looking at the wiring harness. Could i pull an harness off any 2nd 3rd gen maxima, or would it have to be the same spc maxima?
Hi I have searched the forum and cant find the answer. My headlights wont turn off. They go from high to low beam but will not turn off until I either dis connect the battery or remove the fuses. I rang Nissan and one guy said it is the relay but another said they have no relay. Can somebody please give me ideas on what to do next to solve this problem. Thanks in advance.
Im new to the maxima life just picked up a 1990. I wanna lower it and searched for hours and cant find acomoy that makes a coil over kit. Does anyone know where i can find a kit or other nissan cars suspension i could use?
Hi I have searched the forum and cant find the answer. My headlights wont turn off. They go from high to low beam but will not turn off until I either dis connect the battery or remove the fuses. I rang Nissan and one guy said it is the relay but another said they have no relay. Can somebody please give me ideas on what to do next to solve this problem. Thanks in advance.
Yes there is a headlight relay. Check under the hood.
Im new to the maxima life just picked up a 1990. I wanna lower it and searched for hours and cant find acomoy that makes a coil over kit. Does anyone know where i can find a kit or other nissan cars suspension i could use?
There are no coilovers for 3rd gens. Eibach springs were the best lowering springs for 3rd gens but they discontinued them in 08. You may be able to find a set though if you can find a supplier/shop that has a set collecting dust but its like hunting a needle in a haystack. B&G i believe still make 3rd gen lowering springs which are a 2" drop if im not mistaken and KYB still have struts for the 3rd gens. Lowering options are pretty limited on these cars now. I don't even think you can get tokiko blues for our cars now.
There are no coilovers for 3rd gens. Eibach springs were the best lowering springs for 3rd gens but they discontinued them in 08. You may be able to find a set though if you can find a supplier/shop that has a set collecting dust but its like hunting a needle in a haystack. B&G i believe still make 3rd gen lowering springs which are a 2" drop if im not mistaken and KYB still have struts for the 3rd gens. Lowering options are pretty limited on these cars now. I don't even think you can get tokiko blues for our cars now.
Damn i looked in to the b&g ones and they dnt get as low as i want. is there anyway i can use suspension from another nissan wit min fab required?
My Dad just brought his late Mom's pristine 91 GXE (67kmi) back up to Virginia from Florida. Unfortunately, on the long drive up, had a near miss when he kissed the guardrail when he scarily closed his eyes while driving(!!!) Aside from the fact that i could have lost my dad, we're in the market for a couple drivers side door panels as the previously perfect ones are now warped and bent. Can folks point me towards good leads to track down body parts for the 3rd gen? Thanks.
Im new here and i own a 1989 nissan maxima . runs alright other then i have a intake manifold leak and makes a funny noise when i hit the gas but its still driveable just havent had the time to sit down and replace the gaskets. But anyway I'm here because my AC is having issues .. It works fine on the freeway but when im in the city driving around stopping n going it blows hot air like the heater is on.. And also idles really rough and sometimes shuts down on me ... I dont know whats wrong with it can anyone help me ? The car runs perfect until i put the AC on then it runs like crap. Please and thank you if anyone can help me or find some manuels online that could help me
My Dad just brought his late Mom's pristine 91 GXE (67kmi) back up to Virginia from Florida. Unfortunately, on the long drive up, had a near miss when he kissed the guardrail when he scarily closed his eyes while driving(!!!) Aside from the fact that i could have lost my dad, we're in the market for a couple drivers side door panels as the previously perfect ones are now warped and bent. Can folks point me towards good leads to track down body parts for the 3rd gen? Thanks.
That's actually an SE model, not a GXE.
As far as body parts you can still likely find them in junkyards although they are disappearing QUICK even in the yards. Beyond that you can use car-part.com which always has a good supply but if none are local you've got to work with the yards to arrange shipping.
Hi everyone,
I have a problem diagnosing a 92 max se w/AT. Symptoms are car died suddenly while driving, then wont start. No codes other than 5 slow red lights followed by 5 fast blinking reds. No green lights. Am I not using diagnostic ecu correctly? I then changed the spark plugs, fuel filter and fuel pump, air filter, cleaned maf and throttle body. Car has new starter motor less than 1yr old and alternator checks out fine. All fuses check out fine. Relay for pump clicks when ign on but new pump doesn't spin up. All wires on pump test good, even checked new pump on 12vlt bat and it is good, so signal is lost or cut off by something. Is ecu telling pump not to function because of bad sensor somewhere? I'm thinking throttle position sensor pr cam angle sensor bad, yet no codes or dash light to check engine, hmmm. Any ideas where to continue cheaply like replace o2 sensor or knock sensor or iacv sensor or coolant temp sensor?
Hi! So I bought a 1990 Maxima GXE manual with 170,000 miles on it for around $700. Has a couple issues.
First, I believe it has a slight misfire. I need to pull the plugs and clean the battery terminals to see if that helps. Also probably doesn't help it's 6 degrees outside.
Second, I have a vacuum hose missing from somewhere. Posted is the picture of a tube.
Third, the rear brake light and in trunk light don't work. Not sure if they're related or run in the same area. I replaced the bulbs and that didn't fix it.
have a 1992 maxima se with 115k, recently I pulled a code from the self check on the ecu. After doing so the tps seems to be lagging. When I hooked a obd1 with a modis it told me that I need to relearn the tps through the ecu self check screw, I can't seem to find the proper procedure
I'm looking seriously at buying a '92 Maxima SE 5spd that's in fairly great shape. The one thing keeping me from purchasing is the VTC issue. It doesn't tick currently, but if it does, I don't think I'll be able to fix it. I've looked and you can buy new VTC solenoids for a 300zx of the same year. Are they compatible/different? I've searched all over and can't find an answer. If not can someone point me in the right direction, or provide part numbers/specific part names. I've replaced the VTCs on my Infiniti I35 before...
Think I found the answer in the vtc write-up lol. Would still like to know if the 300zx solenoid will work though.
Last edited by brwnNbrusd46; Sep 27, 2017 at 05:17 PM.
star fine after two minutes no power mecanic change sparkplug wires rotor distributor cup mass air flow sensor gas pump i replace fuel inyectors 3months ago check vacum lines but steel the same no power any idea what it could be
Hi Everybody. Another Maxima noob checking in. I bought a 1994 SEL (VG30E) - righthand drive and assembled in New Zealand - so there might be differences between NZ and US models.
Previous owner/s could not be bothered with a little trivial thing like coolant, so this had to be my first job. Lost a bit of metal off the outlet pipe and one of the heater pipes (thinking inlet?).
She has now been water flushed and Nulon flushed - ready for new coolant. Now to my question...
During the flush I noticed water spraying from a little rubber nipple on the firewall. It is on the left hand side of car (right if looking into engine bay from front), just behind the fuel filter. Even though the engine and water were hot, this water was cold. I have been using this manual http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/nis...e-manuals.html and also have a Chilton's manual (for the VG30E but only up to 1992). And the internet, of course...
As the system has been flushed, incl heater core, this water is clean. So far I have not found any mention anywhere about this...uhh part?
Does anyone know what the function is of that little nipple and/or where the water is coming from? I am a little reluctant to put in water and anti-freeze before figuring it out. Everything else seems ok...
Thank you!!
Last edited by Paladin22; Jan 5, 2018 at 07:24 PM.
Hey everyone I've been lurking on this site for many years. I own a 96 se 5mt. My brother has a 93 se 4at. I'm having a missfire problem with his 93.
Symptoms:
-Power loss and missfire apparent when in drive. As the car warms up, the missfire gets worse. NO CEL's
-Problem has gotten worse and worse as the months went by. A gradual change in performance. It seems like the car is running lean.
-Coil packs are good. All have perfect resistance and I checked for spark.
-Coolant temp sensor, and tps were checked, all good.
-The MAF isn't outputting any voltage. That makes me think it's bad. The weird thing is that there's no CEL and the car isn't in limp mode (i can rev it as high as I want).
-I suspect the injectors, but the front 3 I know are good (hard to test rears). I inspected all of the spark plugs and cannot see any differene in condition across the board.
Ay ideas?
<b> 93 SE <b/>
182k Auto, One old lady owner who had a books worth of maintenance history.
Similar issue, starts right up, seems to have no low end power, as if its choking for air, but the higher RPM range seems to be perfect, and VTC seems to sound solid and great. Odd thing is, the infamous ticking sound does happen, or at least what i think to be the infamous ticking noise....but it idles a bit low and ruff. It just seems awfully similar to the MAF issue i had with my 90 R32 GTS-t. Havent done a whole lot of physical digging to see what's what yet, outside a new alternator on day one, removed the rusted spoiler from the rear and cant seem to find squat for it.
<b> 93 SE <b/>
182k Auto, One old lady owner who had a books worth of maintenance history.
Similar issue, starts right up, seems to have no low end power, as if its choking for air, but the higher RPM range seems to be perfect, and VTC seems to sound solid and great. Odd thing is, the infamous ticking sound does happen, or at least what i think to be the infamous ticking noise....but it idles a bit low and ruff. It just seems awfully similar to the MAF issue i had with my 90 R32 GTS-t. Havent done a whole lot of physical digging to see what's what yet, outside a new alternator on day one, removed the rusted spoiler from the rear and cant seem to find squat for it.
Hello, Long time owner of my 94 maxima. Only 92k on it. But after all these years I ran into a problem with my sunroof. A critter got into my headliner and chewed part of the sunroof harness. My question is, where is the fuse or relay that operates the sunroof located at? I would like to just unplug it for the time being until i have the time to rip apart the headliner and rewire the harness so no wires are exposed. Any help is appreciated. Thank you
i have 90' 5 speed manual vg30e.
where is the tranny drain plug located?
there is a weird flathead bolt underneath the tranny. cant imagine that to be the drain?
thanks!
iam a new owner of a 91 j30 Maxima from germany and have a little question. 16'' Wheels with 7,5j and offset 30 is no problem to fit in.
I want to try 8j with offset 25. Does it fit? Car has 30/30 H&R springs
We have strict regulations in germany. for example, the tire surface must not be visible. What size 16inch rims do you have?
Iam also looking for the US frontgrill and the orange corner lights
Just bought a 92' Maxima SE and need some honest input...
I will happily donate for some unbiased feedback. I, nor my partner, are mechanics lol. I want to keep this car. I really, really like it but I need to know if it is genuinely worth keeping as I am prepared to take this person to court for misrepresentation if what I'm finding about the actual mechanical condition is true after purchasing the vehicle at a premium.
*Disclaimer* I was provided with the mechanic the seller claimed to have taken the car to for regular maintenance and did not call for this information before purchasing the car, because we had worked for this man and his wife (in a multimillion dollar neighborhood) enough that I felt comfortable at the time taking his word for things. We had known them roughly a year at this point. I take full responsibility for not doing my due diligence, regardless of the familiarity I had put trust in. I was busy with school and we were busy running a business.
About 2 weeks ago, I bought a 92 Maxima SE, from an older gentleman that my bf's construction company had done some work for a few times.
It was his wife's. One owner, no accidents, well maintained, interior looks GREAT. Leather looks great. Some minor lifting on the dash near the vents on one side, thatI imagine can be rather easily corrected. Exterior is pretty damn good considering it's age. 107,000 miles when I bought it. Slightly more so now. No dents, a few very small minor specks in the paint on the front end (barely noticeable) and some sun damage on the spoiler and side trim outside. Windows are already tinted. Sunroof, power seats, and all windows but the front passenger function. Alarm and both FOBS still work fine. Both keys came with the vehicle. Aftermarket Alpine head and original factory Bose do not function other than some horrific noise. The wiring between the speakers in the trunk looks off compared to what I've seen in pictures. The gentleman told me he had disconnected the sound system for one reason or another, but it wasn't working. He mentioned it was driven less than 4,000 miles a year and that he had kept up on changing fluids, etc., while the car hadn't been being driven much recently. He said he had replaced 6 ignition coils recently, as well as a new battery. It drives smoothly, no ***** in acceleration, and I'm noticing more the more I drive it.
He mentioned brakes would need redone soon. I was expecting that and I was fine with that. He stressed there were no major issues he was aware of and this car was a steal. His wife was dying inside for selling it, *eye roll*.
They were asking $4,000. I bought it for $3,000 ($700 was barter for labor we did on their home, the rest was cash). This was well over market value on KBB. They refused my counter at $2750, but I wanted (and honestly needed) this car.
Once I got in contact with the shop he mentioned, they told me they hadn't seen the car in 1.5 years, nor had they worked on it much. Only that they had quite a few estimates he had brought the car in for and not addressed. The mechanic mentioned (and please pardon my ignorance):
1. Power steering pump or seepage - 550
2. Right front axle leaking grease? - 500
3. Leaking gaskets and crank angle sensor, resealing included - 1000+
Additionally:
4. It would "be wise" to replace the master cylinder
5. The calipers will be discontinued and hard to locate soon, so replace those - 584.84
Brakes will run roughly 2,000 for front and back, new rotors, new pads, new calipers. That I would have shouldered no prob. It's the rest.
AND NOW....
Car was pulling to the right. Took it in for an alignment, and now I'm being told the rack and pinions all need to be replaced. Another 1000+ dollar job quoted from various shops.
I know these can go for 300,000 miles. It's pretty and drives well but she needs ALOT of undisclosed work and in my state, the "as is" seller is NOT protected from misrepresentation. I could easily sue. I would rather not.
Any input would be greatly valued. I could attach pictures tomorrow if that matters. It's dark at the moment.