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*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

Old 12-10-2007, 08:43 AM
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*NOOBIES* The "I am new here,but have a question" thread..(post your questions here)

Ok folks,This thread is for new members/w under 15 posts to post their questions regarding the 3rd Generation Maxima


Before asking questions,please READ the general maintenance sticky---> CLICK HERE


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Old 12-10-2007, 09:24 AM
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Occasional stalling/hesitation, and weird tranny shifting

I own an '89 Maxima. I had the engine changed with a used one (80k on it), at 400k, and the tranny changed @360k, with a brand new trans in the crate from Japan. the car will, at any time either totally drop the rpm's to 0 (at any speed), or have extreme hesitation/ or rough idle. I changed the fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, IAC assy, distributor assy, vacuum hoses, air filter, plugs, cap/rotor, and wires. I noticed that if i move the wiring harness the rough idle occurs. After moving the harness around a bit to make the rough idle occur, it dissapeared, as it often does, but now the tranny shift late from 1st to 2nd(the rpm's dont drop when it does shift, just goes into second, and rpm's keep climbing), but the 2nd to 3rd shift is a little harder. The shifting problem doesnt happen if the 1st gear rpm's stay under 3k. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone run into bad engine wiring harness's creating these problems? I have 430k on the car now, and wanted to at least hit 500k.
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Old 12-10-2007, 09:36 AM
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I love my 3rd Gen Max, but the cost is climbing, and the mechanics here on LI stink. Anyone who can help? Anyone know where to get a new engine wiring harness?
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Old 12-10-2007, 10:47 AM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max View Post
I own an '89 Maxima. I had the engine changed with a used one (80k on it), at 400k, and the tranny changed @360k, with a brand new trans in the crate from Japan. the car will, at any time either totally drop the rpm's to 0 (at any speed), or have extreme hesitation/ or rough idle. I changed the fuel filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, IAC assy, distributor assy, vacuum hoses, air filter, plugs, cap/rotor, and wires. I noticed that if i move the wiring harness the rough idle occurs. After moving the harness around a bit to make the rough idle occur, it dissapeared, as it often does, but now the tranny shift late from 1st to 2nd(the rpm's dont drop when it does shift, just goes into second, and rpm's keep climbing), but the 2nd to 3rd shift is a little harder. The shifting problem doesnt happen if the 1st gear rpm's stay under 3k. Anyone have any ideas? Anyone run into bad engine wiring harness's creating these problems? I have 430k on the car now, and wanted to at least hit 500k.
500K would be an awesome achievement. I wonder if some of your injector wiring is damaged, when you get a rough idle again, try unplugging injectors to see if any dont make a difference in idle, then go after that harness and follow it's wiring.

Have you unwrapped the engine harness to see if any wires are melted or stripped? Do you notice if it behaves worse on wet or high humidity days?
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Old 12-10-2007, 12:31 PM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max View Post
I love my 3rd Gen Max, but the cost is climbing, and the mechanics here on LI stink. Anyone who can help? Anyone know where to get a new engine wiring harness?
where are you from?

find a copy of the FSM (google it, and you can put it on your computer) and/or chiltons/haynes/both and do the work yourself.
we can guide you through here, offer suggestions.
however, we aren't mechanics working on your car.

I also suggest donating to the org to get the search feature. you don't have to work as hard finding threads having to do with your problem(s). 20 bucks well spent, IMO.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:45 AM
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I own an '89 Maxima. I was having problems with a very erratic idle. When I moved the engine wiring harness under the hood it "seemed to dissapear. It comes and goes( I changed the fuel pump today, we'll see about the idle)., but now the transmission shifts erratic. Sluggish to go into 2nd, but it does. However the RPM's dont drop when it shifts. Seems to have a weird shift down from OD at any speed now. Was good before I moved the wiring harness. I checked all the connectors, and they look ok. Anyone have any ideas?? Tranny has about 65k on it. Was replaced at 365k miles, and worked great until the moving of the wires.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:34 PM
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Tail light, dash light problem fixed!!

Looks like the thread I originally posted to is gone. Anyway, I'd like to thank the person who suggested checking my tail lights for a corroded bulb and or socket.
My problem was that I lost my tail lights and dash board lights, applying the brakes caused the dash board lights to illuminate and I'll assume the tail lights as well. (I late confirmed this in regard to the tail lights.) An electrical automotive wiz I know said, he knew of a problem with the multi purpose stalk switch for the lighting controls. Well, I purchased one from an Ebay auction and replaced mine, it did not solve the problem. I tried another stalk switch and still the problem persisted.
I turned to the web for answers and found this forum. After carefully re-reading the T.O.S. posts, I have learned about the 15 post rule. (Sorry, to the mod's for emailing my question(s) about not being able to post a question.) Unable to search and with no suggestions using google, I posted to a what I thought was a similar thread and posed my question.
I was surprised when I was answered back with "check your tail lights..". Today, I checked my tail lights, first unplugging the terminal from the right circuit board, I replaced the blow fuse and the problem went away. Upon further inspection of the circuit board; I found the socket for the upper most bulb corroded with the solder from the bottom of the bulb. I have since cleaned this socket and replaced the bulb with a brand new one, coated the contacts in both the socket and on the bottom of the bulb with di-electric grease, reassembled everything and the problem has gone away. (I greased all the tail light assembly bulbs in both units, in hopes of preventing further problems.)
Little would I have ever imagined that such a small problem could cause such a failure of my tail and dash light. Live and learn.
Again thank you to all who responded positively to my post.

Last edited by SparrowHawk; 12-11-2007 at 02:02 PM.
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Old 12-11-2007, 01:51 PM
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Originally Posted by SparrowHawk View Post
Looks like the thread I originally posted to is gone. Anyway, I'd like to thank the person who suggested checking my tail lights for a corroded bulb and or socket.
My problem was that I lost my tail lights and dash board lights, applying the brakes caused the dash board lights to illuminate and I'll assume the tail lights as well. (I late confirmed this in regard to the tail lights.) An electrical automotive wiz I know said, he knew of a problem with the multi purpose stalk switch for the lighting controls. Well, I purchased one from an Ebay auction and replaced mine, it did not solve the problem. I tried another stalk switch and still the problem persisted.
I turned to the web for answers and found this forum. After carefully re-reading the T.O.S. posts, I have learned about the 15 post rule. (Sorry, to the mod's for emailing my question(s) about not being able to post a question.) Unable to search and with no suggestions using google, I posted to a what I thought was a similar thread and posed my question.
I was surprised when I was answered back with "check your tail lights..". Today, I check my tail lights, first unplugging the terminal from the right circuit board, I replaced the blow fuse and the problem went away. Upon further inspection of the circuit board; I found the socket for the upper most bulb corroded with the solder from the bottom of the bulb. I have since cleaned this socket and replaced the bulb with a brand new one, coated the contacts in both the socket and on the bottom of the bulb with di-electric grease, reassembled everything and the problem has gone away. (I greased all the tail light assembly bulbs in both units, in hopes of preventing further problems.)
Little would I have ever imagined that such a small problem could cause such a failure of my tail and dash light. Live and learn.
Again thank you to all who responded positively to my post.
that'd be internetautomar
stick around, and learn some stuff. you best bet is to learn as much as you can, since its your car. donating to the org will help in your learning, and so you can search and don't have to ask already answered questions.
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:00 PM
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Originally Posted by SparrowHawk View Post
Looks like the thread I originally posted to is gone. Anyway, I'd like to thank the person who suggested checking my tail lights for a corroded bulb and or socket.
My problem was that I lost my tail lights and dash board lights, applying the brakes caused the dash board lights to illuminate and I'll assume the tail lights as well. (I late confirmed this in regard to the tail lights.) An electrical automotive wiz I know said, he knew of a problem with the multi purpose stalk switch for the lighting controls. Well, I purchased one from an Ebay auction and replaced mine, it did not solve the problem. I tried another stalk switch and still the problem persisted.
I turned to the web for answers and found this forum. After carefully re-reading the T.O.S. posts, I have learned about the 15 post rule. (Sorry, to the mod's for emailing my question(s) about not being able to post a question.) Unable to search and with no suggestions using google, I posted to a what I thought was a similar thread and posed my question.
I was surprised when I was answered back with "check your tail lights..". Today, I check my tail lights, first unplugging the terminal from the right circuit board, I replaced the blow fuse and the problem went away. Upon further inspection of the circuit board; I found the socket for the upper most bulb corroded with the solder from the bottom of the bulb. I have since cleaned this socket and replaced the bulb with a brand new one, coated the contacts in both the socket and on the bottom of the bulb with di-electric grease, reassembled everything and the problem has gone away. (I greased all the tail light assembly bulbs in both units, in hopes of preventing further problems.)
Little would I have ever imagined that such a small problem could cause such a failure of my tail and dash light. Live and learn.
Again thank you to all who responded positively to my post.
you are welcome
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Old 12-11-2007, 02:07 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar View Post
you are welcome
Thank you sir, you saved me a lot of trouble. Tracing wires for shorts can take hours. (I already invested a few hours checking switches and relays!) Wish I had found your advice earlier before taking apart my steering column, but hey, you sometimes have to pay for your mistakes...
Again thank you for the advice you provided myself and others!
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Old 12-11-2007, 05:28 PM
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the good thing about looking somewhere and NOT actually finding the problem....is that you learn a lot about other things in the process. congrats....and keep yourself aroudn the .org, it's a great place.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:10 PM
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No reverse in a VLSD 5spd

I recently had the crankshaft to break on my '90VG. I was fortunate enough to find a donor car. It is a '92SE 5spd with only 134K. It looks like poo, so just driving it is not a desirable option.

Which brings me to my problem.

When shifting the gears, the tranny shifts through all the forward gears smoothly. No extra play in the shifter and nothing notchy when shifting between gears. But when you try to shift it into reverse, you can not force it into reverse. It is like it is locked out of reverse. It will pull back into 4th gear instead of reverse, but you can feel the shifter making the move toward the 4th gear gate. I had someone move the shifter between gears while I watched under the hood and I could not see any slack or anything binding there, so I am afraid it may be inside the transaxle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone ran across this before?

I have looked at everything I can find about this, but I am having no luck and hope you guys can help. If you have a link, that would be wonderful! The Google search does not bring anything closely related to my problem.

Thanks in advance!!!!
Mike90SE
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike90SE View Post
I recently had the crankshaft to break on my '90VG. I was fortunate enough to find a donor car. It is a '92SE 5spd with only 134K. It looks like poo, so just driving it is not a desirable option.

Which brings me to my problem.

When shifting the gears, the tranny shifts through all the forward gears smoothly. No extra play in the shifter and nothing notchy when shifting between gears. But when you try to shift it into reverse, you can not force it into reverse. It is like it is locked out of reverse. It will pull back into 4th gear instead of reverse, but you can feel the shifter making the move toward the 4th gear gate. I had someone move the shifter between gears while I watched under the hood and I could not see any slack or anything binding there, so I am afraid it may be inside the transaxle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone ran across this before?

I have looked at everything I can find about this, but I am having no luck and hope you guys can help. If you have a link, that would be wonderful! The Google search does not bring anything closely related to my problem.

Thanks in advance!!!!
Mike90SE
There's only one way to find out, tear down the tranny.
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Old 12-11-2007, 11:59 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike90SE View Post
I recently had the crankshaft to break on my '90VG. I was fortunate enough to find a donor car. It is a '92SE 5spd with only 134K. It looks like poo, so just driving it is not a desirable option.

Which brings me to my problem.

When shifting the gears, the tranny shifts through all the forward gears smoothly. No extra play in the shifter and nothing notchy when shifting between gears. But when you try to shift it into reverse, you can not force it into reverse. It is like it is locked out of reverse. It will pull back into 4th gear instead of reverse, but you can feel the shifter making the move toward the 4th gear gate. I had someone move the shifter between gears while I watched under the hood and I could not see any slack or anything binding there, so I am afraid it may be inside the transaxle. Does anyone have any suggestions? Or has anyone ran across this before?

I have looked at everything I can find about this, but I am having no luck and hope you guys can help. If you have a link, that would be wonderful! The Google search does not bring anything closely related to my problem.

Thanks in advance!!!!
Mike90SE
There's only one way to find out, tear down the tranny. It's either debris blocking you out, or a problem with the reverse mechanism in there.
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:34 AM
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So did anyone have any ideas about what could be causing the problem I mentioned before? I have no problem donating to the cause, but need to find someone who can help. Ive been an Electronic/Mechanical Tech for 23 yrs now, and do most of the work on my car. I changed the fuel pump today, and still get the intermitten dropping RPM(even at idle), and the weird shifting Tranny. I did open the wiring harness, looking for breaks in the wires. Looked good, even where I soldered and shrunkwrapped the new injector connector wires. Also couldnt get the problem to occur.
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:48 AM
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Heres more... When the idle is rough, if I tap on the intake, or any part of the engine the idle evens. Still will have the weird tranny shift. Also the problem seems to happen more on dry days. I also pulled the #1 plug and it has a reddish color(lean condition?). Could the Knopck Sensor be causing all these problems? Maybe a revolution sensor? Someone has to have had this??
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Old 12-12-2007, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Hectic View Post
There's only one way to find out, tear down the tranny. It's either debris blocking you out, or a problem with the reverse mechanism in there.
Thanks for the advice. I was hoping it would have been something simple (e.g. something external), but I was afraid it would be internal.
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Old 12-12-2007, 07:39 AM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max View Post
Heres more... When the idle is rough, if I tap on the intake, or any part of the engine the idle evens. Still will have the weird tranny shift. Also the problem seems to happen more on dry days. I also pulled the #1 plug and it has a reddish color(lean condition?). Could the Knopck Sensor be causing all these problems? Maybe a revolution sensor? Someone has to have had this??
how clean are your ground points?
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:12 AM
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I checked all the ground points. They look good. Car stll intermittenly varies on the idle, almost to the point of a stall. I noticed that revving the engine causes a "pop" from the air cleaner box. I know o-ring problems on the injectors can cause this symptom, but I cant tap on ind. injectors, and get the problem to occur. All the while I have the weird shifting tranny. I tried to do the trans. self diagnostic, using the method, but cant get it to go into that mode. My relationship with my Max is turning into a hate/hate situation, which sucks cause ive spent ~ 8k replacing the tranny, engine, and a bunch of mods. Now im embarassed to drive this S*#T-box.
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Old 12-12-2007, 12:07 PM
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do you have a timing light?
check to make sure the timing isn't jumping.
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Old 12-12-2007, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max View Post
I checked all the ground points. They look good. Car stll intermittenly varies on the idle, almost to the point of a stall. I noticed that revving the engine causes a "pop" from the air cleaner box. I know o-ring problems on the injectors can cause this symptom, but I cant tap on ind. injectors, and get the problem to occur. All the while I have the weird shifting tranny. I tried to do the trans. self diagnostic, using the method, but cant get it to go into that mode. My relationship with my Max is turning into a hate/hate situation, which sucks cause ive spent ~ 8k replacing the tranny, engine, and a bunch of mods. Now im embarassed to drive this S*#T-box.
Try unplugging your mass air flow sensor,then start the car/see how it idles.(FYI..The car will not rev over approx. 2300 rpm with the maf unplugged)
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Old 12-12-2007, 02:13 PM
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Dead speedo.

I have a '92 5-speed SE. My (analog) speedo stopped working last week. It stays stuck at 30 when the ignition is off and jumps to 40 when the key is on. Other than that, it's dead. Has anyone seen this prob before? If so what's up?
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Old 12-12-2007, 02:17 PM
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Originally Posted by corndog View Post
I have a '92 5-speed SE. My (analog) speedo stopped working last week. It stays stuck at 30 when the ignition is off and jumps to 40 when the key is on. Other than that, it's dead. Has anyone seen this prob before? If so what's up?
sounds like you have a dead instrument cluster,which can be easily replaced with used unit from your local junk yard..
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:37 PM
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I replaced the MAF sensor, along with...fuel pump, filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, whole distributor assy, IAC assy, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I'm thinking the knock sensor, cause I know it can retard the timing, possibly causing my weird tranny shifting.
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Old 12-12-2007, 11:54 PM
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I just bought a 94 Maxima GXE with the Clarion sound system and a tape deck (Havent seen one of those in a while, lol). The rear speakers arent working. There is a factory amp (Cute little thing). Can I bypass that amp with my new headunit without running new wires from the dash to the rear deck? If I can, which wires do I use, or is there a wiring schematic online somewhere that I can access to find out.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:03 AM
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Originally Posted by jspeter51 View Post
I just bought a 94 Maxima GXE with the Clarion sound system and a tape deck (Havent seen one of those in a while, lol). The rear speakers arent working. There is a factory amp (Cute little thing). Can I bypass that amp with my new headunit without running new wires from the dash to the rear deck? If I can, which wires do I use, or is there a wiring schematic online somewhere that I can access to find out.
Odds are that your factory amps were already bypassed. Check out the colors wired into the clarion harness and match them to what you see at the speakers in the back.

You should be able to get a manual for the clarion at their site.
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Old 12-13-2007, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max View Post
I replaced the MAF sensor, along with...fuel pump, filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, whole distributor assy, IAC assy, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I'm thinking the knock sensor, cause I know it can retard the timing, possibly causing my weird tranny shifting.
Honestly,the knock sensor on the vg engine is pretty useless in the whole scheme of things..I would look elsewhere for the problem,Which parts on your replacement list were new/used if any?
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Old 12-13-2007, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by LI89Max View Post
I replaced the MAF sensor, along with...fuel pump, filter, injectors, pressure regulator, fuel rail, whole distributor assy, IAC assy, plugs, wires, cap/rotor, O2 sensor. I'm thinking the knock sensor, cause I know it can retard the timing, possibly causing my weird tranny shifting.
have you checked your timing yet???
stop throwing money at the dam car and DIAGNOSE it.
a few simple hours spent checking it could have saved you hundreds of dollars.
hell I'd rather give a mechanic $65 to diagnose the thing before throwing all those parts at it.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:01 AM
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Hello all!

I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida.

In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor.

Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:13 AM
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Originally Posted by Dalez0r View Post
Hello all!

I recently purchased a 94 Maxima GXE at 170k, VG30E engine of course. Bought the car because I also own a 86 300zx with that engine, and know it's highly reliable. The car according to Carfax has only had two owners, and spent most of it's life in Florida.

In any case, the engine had leaky valve cover gaskets, so I had a friend who has tools (some idiot stole mine. GRRR) pop the covers off, where we found a CRAPLOAD of oil sludge everywhere. It looks like someone took hot roofing tar and splashed everything with a good 1/8+" layer of it. The friend says he used to work at a engine rebuilding shop, and this is one of the worst he's seen. He recommends selling the car immediately so I don't end up with a dead car and no money. I assume this was caused by one of two things: lack of sufficient oil changes, or overheating. I mentioned overheating because the car also has a brand new radiator the previous owner must have installed before selling it. Everything else about the car seems great, runs good, shifts fine, etc. Only problem I've had is a rough idle when it's cold outside and the engine isn't warmed up (temp sensor not kicking in cold enrich?) and a code for a bad O2 sensor.

Soooo, what's the popular opinion here? I hate to let the car go, I only paid $1500 for it, and my girlfriend who I bought it for loves it.
Do you have photos? It sounds like the sludge could've actually caused the overheat by blocking oil flow.

You could probably try to dissolve that stuff little by little, as long as it is actually dissolved and doesnt come off in chunks. I used to use some stuff, cant remember what its called... but you pour it into an engine before the oil change and let it idle for 5 mins, then drain it all. It was supposed to eat away at deposits like that.

You're lucky that you have a VG with this issue though, a VE with poor oil flow would be long gone by now.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:22 AM
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Yeah, the variable cam timing would be making that nice tick I read about wouldn't it?

No photos unfortunately, I'll see about trying to get some, but it's dark by the time I get off work, and the car is well away from a good light source. Flashlights suck for taking photos.

Well, I thought about the dissolving it thing as well. Question is, how much damage would you think is done to the engine? Is the engine WORTH keeping, or is it surely going to die in a year or two as a result of it's previous abuse? It pulls strong, but if the bearings were starved of oil...

Any experience with VG30E's that were treated this poorly?
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:28 AM
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I would get rid of the motor, it was obviously neglected which doesn't bode well for future problems.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Dalez0r View Post
Yeah, the variable cam timing would be making that nice tick I read about wouldn't it?

No photos unfortunately, I'll see about trying to get some, but it's dark by the time I get off work, and the car is well away from a good light source. Flashlights suck for taking photos.

Well, I thought about the dissolving it thing as well. Question is, how much damage would you think is done to the engine? Is the engine WORTH keeping, or is it surely going to die in a year or two as a result of it's previous abuse? It pulls strong, but if the bearings were starved of oil...

Any experience with VG30E's that were treated this poorly?
The stuff I used is only in the engine briefly, under low RPMs, and once its done you drain the oil, so its not there long enough really damage anything.

It seems that it cant really get any worse, so your options are (a) leave as is and drive until it dies, (b) try to remidy the issue and hope for the best, (c) engine swap or (d) sell it.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:39 AM
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Originally Posted by mikekantor View Post
The stuff I used is only in the engine briefly, under low RPMs, and once its done you drain the oil, so its not there long enough really damage anything.

It seems that it cant really get any worse, so your options are (a) leave as is and drive until it dies, (b) try to remidy the issue and hope for the best, (c) engine swap or (d) sell it.
I meant how much damage do you think was done by the idiot previous owner causing that sludge buildup in the first place, not what the dissolving would do. If the consensus is the engine was badly damaged already, no need to try to clean it out. My apologies, I wasn't clear.

I guess it comes down to if I *think* the engine will at least last as long as the transmission, then it may be worth keeping and just swapping in a rebuilt engine later. If the current engine will last 2, maybe 3 years, I'll feel like I got my money's worth out of it and the car....

I bought a 'spare' VG30E from a older maxima I intend on rebuilding (and turboing) for my 300zx, maybe I should rebuild my 300zx engine after that swap and stick it in the Maxima.
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Old 12-13-2007, 11:53 AM
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^^^^it all really comes down to whether or not the sludge had affected major engine components, or has it blocked certain oil passage ways vital to the engine. If you're lucky, you might get away with only cleaning the engine out, if not, well, the thing might die on you. From what you described, I think you are proficient enough to tell engine condition from the noise that it makes, so a careful listen might reveal the answer that you are looking for. If you hear no abnormal lifter noises, tick, or clack, I think it might be safe to assume that you will be able to just give the motor a good clean and drive it for another 1-2 years. From my personal experience, the VG engine can take a good overheating, on my previous max (red one), the water pump leaked when i was on the highway, so I had drive about 1/2 hours at about 40mph while the temp needle is at its max to a local mech shop to fill up on coolant. After the pump was replaced, all is well, and the engine ran just as strong as before.

80s 300zx engine into max is doable, but not without some work. While you are at it, why not just stuff a turbo one in the max as well?
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by disgruntled View Post
80s 300zx engine into max is doable, but not without some work. While you are at it, why not just stuff a turbo one in the max as well?
Boosted 3rd gens eat transmissions for breakfast, and then snack on crossmembers for lunch.
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Old 12-13-2007, 12:13 PM
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stick tranny can hold up a while, reinforced x members as done by many others do hold up quite well... but mikekantor is right though...
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Old 12-13-2007, 01:07 PM
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Originally Posted by disgruntled View Post
80s 300zx engine into max is doable, but not without some work. While you are at it, why not just stuff a turbo one in the max as well?

Did I mention this was for my girlfriend to drive?

To make any chance of performance mods even more remote, she refuses to drive a stick for a daily driver, so it has to be the auto. So unless there's a much stronger auto I can drop in...


You've given me some good info to think over. If anyone else has advice, do chime in. Else, I'm going to ponder this for a bit. Thanks for the info thus far guys!
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Old 12-13-2007, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Dalez0r View Post
D So unless there's a much stronger auto I can drop in...
be the first to try the A/T out of the quest...
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Old 12-13-2007, 03:41 PM
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Knocking distributor

Hi.
I haven't had the time to strip it totally open but thought I would ask here if someone know maybe. I have a knocking sound coming from the distributor, almost sound like a bearing going bad. I did quickly remove the distributor cap and the rotor and cap looks fine. What could be the problem? I'm fairly new to the maxima mechanicals. Any thoughts would help.

Thanks
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