The swap is complete but I need some ideas....
#81
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Originally Posted by mikekantor
You can probably fool the ECU into thinking that the relay is there and engaged, just cross a few wires.
I'm no expert at these diagrams, but to me it looks like you need to put +12 on pin 16, and ground pin 45 to give the condition of a closed relay.
I'm no expert at these diagrams, but to me it looks like you need to put +12 on pin 16, and ground pin 45 to give the condition of a closed relay.
Originally Posted by maximagician
could it have to do with the 1 or 2 relays in the trunk fsm pg EL-190
its shows green=fuel pump relay....
and orange=safety relay(vg model)vg only? and why?
just bringing it up because no one else did
but if hes doing a ve in a vg car it should have both?
its shows green=fuel pump relay....
and orange=safety relay(vg model)vg only? and why?
just bringing it up because no one else did
but if hes doing a ve in a vg car it should have both?
At this point I do not think the relays in the truck have anything to with it....now after I swap the harness to get juice to my coils.....I could have a problem. Notice I said could.....I am going to stay positive and take one thing at a time. Right now all this is costing me is my time, so swapping stuff out is no biggie.
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Ok, so I should have no troubles if I change all the harnesses and also make sure I ground it in all the right places? This is the biggest reason I do not want to splice anything. The way I look at it, if I use all the factory wiring, I should have no more trouble.
#88
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I believe tat once I swap all the necessary stuff, I should be up and running. At least that is the plan anyways.
#91
need to give barry a call and figure out wats up wit the clutch having little to no pedal, maybe he can give us some insight seeing how many motors he's swapped lol, stupid nissans got too many things to swap lol
#93
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Update
Dang it, I have used almost whole can of synthetic brake fluid trying to bleed my clutch with no success only to find out that I had knicked the rubber hose and was losing pressure. No wonder I couldn't build up any pressure.
I have pulled the harness from the donor car. If anyone tells you this is easy, SLAP THEM RIGHT THEN AND THERE!!! I worked all evening to pull this harness and everything out front has to be d/c. And when I say everything, I mean EVERYTHING! Headlights, turnsignals, fogs, horns, even the dang windshield washer! And all this is the easy part!!!
Anyway, I did get the dash cluster swapped so I have the proper tach. Also found out that I get to replace the waterpump before I get to drive it as it seems the seal in it decided to let go after I pulled it from the donor car. Alas, I should get to hear it run tomorrow.
I have pulled the harness from the donor car. If anyone tells you this is easy, SLAP THEM RIGHT THEN AND THERE!!! I worked all evening to pull this harness and everything out front has to be d/c. And when I say everything, I mean EVERYTHING! Headlights, turnsignals, fogs, horns, even the dang windshield washer! And all this is the easy part!!!
Anyway, I did get the dash cluster swapped so I have the proper tach. Also found out that I get to replace the waterpump before I get to drive it as it seems the seal in it decided to let go after I pulled it from the donor car. Alas, I should get to hear it run tomorrow.
Last edited by Mike90SE; 01-26-2008 at 04:28 PM. Reason: Spelling
#96
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It LIVES!!!!!!!!!!!
IT LIVES!!!!!
I finally got her to run today. I still have to finish buttoning everything up. Such as all the splash shields and such. Just ran out of daylight again today.
Anyway, I will be working on a write up soon. I will run it by Greeny before I post it to make sure everything is covered.
As I said before, this can be done, it is just not the same as changing brake pads or anything like that.
I finally got her to run today. I still have to finish buttoning everything up. Such as all the splash shields and such. Just ran out of daylight again today.
Anyway, I will be working on a write up soon. I will run it by Greeny before I post it to make sure everything is covered.
As I said before, this can be done, it is just not the same as changing brake pads or anything like that.
#97
IT LIVES!!!!!
I finally got her to run today. I still have to finish buttoning everything up. Such as all the splash shields and such. Just ran out of daylight again today.
Anyway, I will be working on a write up soon. I will run it by Greeny before I post it to make sure everything is covered.
As I said before, this can be done, it is just not the same as changing brake pads or anything like that.
I finally got her to run today. I still have to finish buttoning everything up. Such as all the splash shields and such. Just ran out of daylight again today.
Anyway, I will be working on a write up soon. I will run it by Greeny before I post it to make sure everything is covered.
As I said before, this can be done, it is just not the same as changing brake pads or anything like that.
Woohoo!!
glad you got it going.
I'll get down there in a few weeks to help ya with a little tweekin..
#98
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Originally Posted by Greeny
I'll get down there in a few weeks to help ya with a little tweekin..
Ima glad it runs too. It fired right up after getting all the harness swapped. LOL
Still got some minor details to take care of and then look out! LOL
#99
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all this just brings my hopes up on doing this swap to my car as well. glad to hear the car started right up. i think i should fix my mom's old VQ motor and sell that thing so that i can go pick up a VE and start building it.
#100
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Long story short, for the money, you can get more HP for your money from a turboed VG than you can from a stock N/A VE.
So, everyone can pile on now. LOL I do not regret doing the swap, as I got a good deal on my donor car. Had I just bought a VE motor and done this swap, I would absolutely have went crazy! LOL
#101
honestly, the easiest way to look at it is....buy a donor car.....and everything you see under the hood, SWAP IT lol and i mean EVERYTHING
#103
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Now, if you don't mind splicing wires, I am sure there is a way to make part of the VG harness work. But you will, at the very least, need the ECU and accompanying harness from the VE to make this work. I do not know what would have to be rigged to make it work as I opted to not splice anything.
#104
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We have heard the motor run, but I cheaped out when I pulled the VE from my donor and did not replace my waterpump. After putting coolant in, it immediately started leaking. Oh well. Anyway no parts store here had one in stock, so I had to order one and am waiting on it to come in. But it is running.
#105
i've studied into this, it will be easier to turbo a VG, yields better gains, BUT a VE turbo can be done also, there is tons of info on this in the 3rd gen section, find mtcookson (or whatever his name is lol) he has a turboed VG, just remember to do the turbo your gonna have to beef the internals up, rods, pistons, the works, don't wanna go through all that then blow it up cause it couldn't handle the abuse due to age and wear already lol
but on another note i'm ready to get this swap completed!! as in get it on the road!!!!
but on another note i'm ready to get this swap completed!! as in get it on the road!!!!
#107
Keep in mind, i drive a car exactly like yours frequently.they are two different worlds in driver excitement.
I'm not knocking the vg engine by any means,but until you have experienced a nice running ve5,shut ya trap.
Last edited by Greeny; 01-29-2008 at 03:24 PM.
#108
i agree with greeny, hell they don't even have to be modded, take a bone stock VG 5speed then drive a VE 5speed....that 30 hp&tq makes a HELLA DIFFERENCE, when we went up to get the donor car we took it out for a drive and well needless to say that car is stupid fast lol a LOT more than wat i expected
#109
He's holding out until he finds the one. I respect his morals. The problem is, lot of VEs have blown a shaft one day, only to have a different one inside them a week later. You would be hard pressed to find one that doesn't get all ticked off when you don't use the right lubricant.
#110
we got'er runnin again today, well dad did i was asleep lol, new water pump, clutch line.....just waitin for the stupid idiotzone to get the coils in that were suppose to have been here today, then it'll be out on the road
#111
He's holding out until he finds the one. I respect his morals. The problem is, lot of VEs have blown a shaft one day, only to have a different one inside them a week later. You would be hard pressed to find one that doesn't get all ticked off when you don't use the right lubricant.
I been screwing around with the ve engine for going on 8 years now,experimented with different oils brands/viscosities,and have found out that it's the correct oil filter that makes the difference on the ve, not the oil..The napa gold is a good all around choice,also the mobil 1 filter is great filter in terms of vtc clack issues.
As far as the ve/vg dependability issue,the vg maximas are a tried and true workhorse as long as you keep the t-belt changed,but it also has it's major downfall issues(weak *** crankshaft,major injector failure issues,auto trans failures out the ***)..Again i say, the vg maximas are a fine car,but it has it's share of mechanical downfalls as well. IMHO,the auto transmission failures in the vg are the main reason most people steer clear of the vg model maxima,and imo the main reason why alot of our past members have moved on to other gen maximas,or other model cars entirely..As a matter of fact,my local j-yard has 6 vg autos in their yard right now,not a one of them has a single dent,all are in the yard due to auto transmission failure.ALL.
The ve has one major downfall,the vtc's,which is remedied by grounding at first onset of clack,then onto replacement of the springs when you get brave enough to tackle the job,or have enough money to have it done by a shop.Also, the ve auto transmission is as close to a bulletproof transmission as nissan has ever made.
My vtc's were replaced at 140k by the previous owner of the car in 1998,the engine now has 319,000+ miles with intermittent clacking when cold weather is present,in summer time,much less. So in closing,be sure to have some long term experience with the VE maxima before calling it an unreliable engine.
Last edited by Greeny; 01-29-2008 at 04:42 PM.
#112
Huh? A shaft? not sure what you are talking about there?
I been screwing around with the ve engine for going on 8 years now,experimented with different oils brands/viscosities,and have found out that it's the correct oil filter that makes the difference on the ve, not the oil..The napa gold is a good all around choice,also the mobil 1 filter is great filter in terms of vtc clack issues.
As far as the ve/vg dependability issue,the vg maximas are a tried and true workhorse as long as you keep the t-belt changed,but it also has it's major downfall issues(weak *** crankshaft,major injector failure issues,auto trans failures out the ***)..Again i say, the vg maximas are a fine car,but it has it's share of mechanical downfalls as well. IMHO,the auto transmission failures in the vg are the main reason most people steer clear of the vg model maxima,and imo the main reason why alot of our past members have moved on to other gen maximas,or other model cars entirely..As a matter of fact,my local j-yard has 6 vg autos in their yard right now,not a one of them has a single dent,all are in the yard due to auto transmission failure.ALL.
The ve has one major downfall,the vtc's,which is remedied by grounding at first onset of clack,then onto replacement of the springs when you get brave enough to tackle the job,or have enough money to have it done by a shop.Also, the ve auto transmission is as close to a bulletproof transmission as nissan has ever made.
My vtc's were replaced at 140k by the previous owner of the car in 1998,the engine now has 319,000+ miles with intermittent clacking when cold weather is present,in summer time,much less. So in closing,be sure to have some long term experience with the VE maxima before calling it an unreliable engine.
I been screwing around with the ve engine for going on 8 years now,experimented with different oils brands/viscosities,and have found out that it's the correct oil filter that makes the difference on the ve, not the oil..The napa gold is a good all around choice,also the mobil 1 filter is great filter in terms of vtc clack issues.
As far as the ve/vg dependability issue,the vg maximas are a tried and true workhorse as long as you keep the t-belt changed,but it also has it's major downfall issues(weak *** crankshaft,major injector failure issues,auto trans failures out the ***)..Again i say, the vg maximas are a fine car,but it has it's share of mechanical downfalls as well. IMHO,the auto transmission failures in the vg are the main reason most people steer clear of the vg model maxima,and imo the main reason why alot of our past members have moved on to other gen maximas,or other model cars entirely..As a matter of fact,my local j-yard has 6 vg autos in their yard right now,not a one of them has a single dent,all are in the yard due to auto transmission failure.ALL.
The ve has one major downfall,the vtc's,which is remedied by grounding at first onset of clack,then onto replacement of the springs when you get brave enough to tackle the job,or have enough money to have it done by a shop.Also, the ve auto transmission is as close to a bulletproof transmission as nissan has ever made.
My vtc's were replaced at 140k by the previous owner of the car in 1998,the engine now has 319,000+ miles with intermittent clacking when cold weather is present,in summer time,much less. So in closing,be sure to have some long term experience with the VE maxima before calling it an unreliable engine.
#113
John..if you ever get the pleasure of taking a spin in a nicely modded ve5(ask goon about his ride in mine) you would see the difference,it's not subtle,it's dramatic.
Keep in mind, i drive a car exactly like yours frequently.they are two different worlds in driver excitement.
I'm not knocking the vg engine by any means,but until you have experienced a nice running ve5,shut ya trap.
Keep in mind, i drive a car exactly like yours frequently.they are two different worlds in driver excitement.
I'm not knocking the vg engine by any means,but until you have experienced a nice running ve5,shut ya trap.
#114
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Honestly, (and yes, I know I am going to hear many I told you so's) unless you are ready to sink around a grand or better into this swap, I do not recommend it. Between the water pump, new clutch, new coils, plugs, and various other parts you might find going bad once you get into the swap you are looking at several hundred dollars. Heck, the coils themselves are close to $400 from idiotzone. What I am saying is this.....if you just got to have the VE then go for it, but for the same amount of money you can turbo your VG.
Long story short, for the money, you can get more HP for your money from a turboed VG than you can from a stock N/A VE.
So, everyone can pile on now. LOL I do not regret doing the swap, as I got a good deal on my donor car. Had I just bought a VE motor and done this swap, I would absolutely have went crazy! LOL
Long story short, for the money, you can get more HP for your money from a turboed VG than you can from a stock N/A VE.
So, everyone can pile on now. LOL I do not regret doing the swap, as I got a good deal on my donor car. Had I just bought a VE motor and done this swap, I would absolutely have went crazy! LOL
#115
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This is a strange situation....my son originally owned the car, but when he bought his 5th gen, I bought it from him. He always talked about either turboing the VG or swapping in a VE. So, when the VG gave up the ghost, I found a good donor car (read, no title, rest of the car is crap but has a good drivetrain) I thought, what the hell. It has given my son some valuable experience in working on cars.
#116
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John..if you ever get the pleasure of taking a spin in a nicely modded ve5(ask goon about his ride in mine) you would see the difference,it's not subtle,it's dramatic.
Keep in mind, i drive a car exactly like yours frequently.they are two different worlds in driver excitement.
I'm not knocking the vg engine by any means,but until you have experienced a nice running ve5,shut ya trap.
Keep in mind, i drive a car exactly like yours frequently.they are two different worlds in driver excitement.
I'm not knocking the vg engine by any means,but until you have experienced a nice running ve5,shut ya trap.
#117
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true, but apparently doing an engine swap is not rocket science for me. ive done 1 already on my car, 1 on my old '89 SE, 1 on my mom's '96 GXE, 1 on my dad's '89 corolla another on my dad's '87 mazda pick up, 1 on my friends '97 SE, another on my friends '91 240SX, and the list goes on. i spent less than a grand when i swapped my VG motor into my '93. everything under my hood is practically new. but it is true what you are saying about the coils costing that much and sourcing all the other parts needed for the swap. i can take my chances if i wanted to but not now but i would love to do it soon after i finish fixing my S-10 which has been in my backyard for some time now. i can practically pick up a junked VE motor for about $200 from my local junkyard and just rebuild the thing little by little and not all at once cuz if not im really going to be broke for a long time. lol!
#118
I dont know dude, I'm thinking you're getting way too defensive Never did I say anything bad about VEs in that comment. I just warned him as those type of comments usually start VG/VE wars and what not. Plus I'm sure you get very tempted on banning people for talkin about VEs
I definately believe there is a huge difference. I've owned 2 88-89 Accords with 22HP difference and boy it was huge...I know a 30hp difference is killer. Give it a break dude, I'm not anti VE and I do want one...I'm just waiting for the one. The rust free, dent free, clack free, auto free, leak free VE I want. well leaks I can fix but still. Just give it time dude, I will have one bad *** VE5. For now I will continue to rock the VG which by no means is a sport-car nor did I imply it being one.
Oh and timing belts I have no problem doing unlike some lazy chain owners
I definately believe there is a huge difference. I've owned 2 88-89 Accords with 22HP difference and boy it was huge...I know a 30hp difference is killer. Give it a break dude, I'm not anti VE and I do want one...I'm just waiting for the one. The rust free, dent free, clack free, auto free, leak free VE I want. well leaks I can fix but still. Just give it time dude, I will have one bad *** VE5. For now I will continue to rock the VG which by no means is a sport-car nor did I imply it being one.
Oh and timing belts I have no problem doing unlike some lazy chain owners
VE swap is tempting...
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#120
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Well, I got my ignition coils in today. GGGGGGG's that is a lot of doe rae mee for what I carried out of there in one hand. LOL
I will be installing them Saturday morning and buttoning up everything else (splash shields, fender wells, and such).
Got my A/C swapped over to R134 and it is cooling nicely.
Water pump is on and heater is working!
Should be able to take her for a spin early Saturday!!!!
I will be installing them Saturday morning and buttoning up everything else (splash shields, fender wells, and such).
Got my A/C swapped over to R134 and it is cooling nicely.
Water pump is on and heater is working!
Should be able to take her for a spin early Saturday!!!!