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Old 01-31-2008, 09:20 PM
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Alternate Fuel

I've been wondering lately, has anyone ever converted a 3rd gen so it could run on something other than gas or diesel? I've noticed that I've been getting 14 mpg for the past couple of years and that straight out sucks. Then the gas isn't getting any cheaper and it's been said that world's oil will run out in about 50 years. It's a long time, but the less oil there is, the more expensive it's gonna get. Then a few days ago I've checked out a magazine in my college library called "Home Power" and it had an article about a guy converting his truck into a fully electric version. He attached the motor directly to the stock transmission with some conversion kit and stuck a huge battery in the truck bed. He said it could go up to 60 mph, which is descent for an electric car. So the question is, can that be done to a Maxima? Or to convert it to biodiesel? I realize that it would probably be easier or even cheaper to just buy a new more efficient car, but I really don't wanna do that.
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:31 PM
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
I've been wondering lately, has anyone ever converted a 3rd gen so it could run on something other than gas or diesel? I've noticed that I've been getting 14 mpg for the past couple of years and that straight out sucks. Then the gas isn't getting any cheaper and it's been said that world's oil will run out in about 50 years. It's a long time, but the less oil there is, the more expensive it's gonna get. Then a few days ago I've checked out a magazine in my college library called "Home Power" and it had an article about a guy converting his truck into a fully electric version. He attached the motor directly to the stock transmission with some conversion kit and stuck a huge battery in the truck bed. He said it could go up to 60 mph, which is descent for an electric car. So the question is, can that be done to a Maxima? Or to convert it to biodiesel? I realize that it would probably be easier or even cheaper to just buy a new more efficient car, but I really don't wanna do that.
find out why your MPG sucks so bad. i have a messed up injector plug and several broken studs and an autotragic and my 160k VG still pumps out a solid 22-26MPG

and i suppose you could try some sort of custom hybrid system. or maybe just regenerative braking.. that should be more doable, to take load off the alternator so you'd get slightly better MPGs. or disconnect the injector and spark plug wires for the 3 even or odd cylinders and run it on 3 cylinders (via switch if you want... that could work as well, if you can find a way to do that. will work better on a VE) that way you can take advantage of the higher efficiency of running a "1.5L" engine at higher throttle openings (higher throttle being more efficient due to less power lost to the drag created by the throttle butterfly). but that will GREATLY decrease your car's ability to pass or accelerate quickly.

Last edited by CapedCadaver; 01-31-2008 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 01-31-2008, 09:45 PM
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Cant run diesel (and therefore bio diesel), as it needs an entirely different engine. Have fun finding a FWD diesel that will motivate the maxima decently. And swapping it in. Possible just not quite worth it.

But you should be getting way better then 14MPG. Make sure you don't have any fuel leaks, and also all the gas tank hoses are good. If all those check out and the sensors are all OK, you should be getting 22-29mpg.

Or try a turbo setup, maxmaxima91 gets over 30mpg regularly on the highway, no boost of course...

edit As far as the electric setup goes, theres huge limits on powering a car as heavy as the maxima and still getting any decent range at all. You'd fill up your trunk and still want more room. The best electric cars are the lightest ones. The maxima is a horrible candidate for an electric conversion.

~Alex

Last edited by Alex_V; 01-31-2008 at 09:51 PM.
 
Old 02-01-2008, 12:01 AM
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:44 AM
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after you fix the 14mpg, check out ethanol(E85)
One link I found stated that fuel injectors on some cars(1988-1993) would have to be replaced with a "more modern" style(something about more insulation for the coils, cant find the page)
its cheaper than gas, at $2.16/gal(US) and you have, like, FOUR consumer pumping stations within 20 miles from Burlington, Iowa(i have 2, but theyre Gov't only)
(see http://www.e85refueling.com/ for local stations.)
Hell, I could go on forever, because there is more info on this than gas, maximas, and politics combined(exaggerated, but still)
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Old 02-01-2008, 07:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
I've been wondering lately, has anyone ever converted a 3rd gen so it could run on something other than gas or diesel? I've noticed that I've been getting 14 mpg for the past couple of years and that straight out sucks. Then the gas isn't getting any cheaper and it's been said that world's oil will run out in about 50 years. It's a long time, but the less oil there is, the more expensive it's gonna get. Then a few days ago I've checked out a magazine in my college library called "Home Power" and it had an article about a guy converting his truck into a fully electric version. He attached the motor directly to the stock transmission with some conversion kit and stuck a huge battery in the truck bed. He said it could go up to 60 mph, which is descent for an electric car. So the question is, can that be done to a Maxima? Or to convert it to biodiesel? I realize that it would probably be easier or even cheaper to just buy a new more efficient car, but I really don't wanna do that.
1. you can convert to propane power. it takes money
2. you can only convert to electric with a manual transmission.
3. I think swapping in an SR20DE would be easier than swapping in an electric motor ,though not likely to be efficient around town,

If you are only doing short distance driving with long periods in between of the car being off then your MPG makes sense.
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:01 AM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
1. you can convert to propane power. it takes money
2. you can only convert to electric with a manual transmission.
3. I think swapping in an SR20DE would be easier than swapping in an electric motor ,though not likely to be efficient around town,

If you are only doing short distance driving with long periods in between of the car being off then your MPG makes sense.
Why 2 is only manual?
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:05 AM
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I don't know what it would take to convert the engine to run on E85 but you can expect a 20-30% decrease in gas mileage using ethanol over gas (even in cars made specifically to run on E85, there's just less energy per gallon), with the decrease in mileage ethanol can cost more per mile to drive with than gas. If you want to look at the decrease yourself, consumer reports has done an article testing the mileage difference and there's plenty of others out there too. My guess for your problem is a fuel leak somewhere, I used to get at least 22mpg in my car but recently I've been getting 15mpg. I've also been getting a gas smell when it's cold so I think I have a leak to track down.
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Old 02-01-2008, 09:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Darkwing48
Why 2 is only manual?
the automatc transmission needs a constantly moving source to run the pump that moves the fluid in the trans in order to function normally. an electric motor does idle like a gas motor. when you are at a stop it is off, so the trans pump isn't pumping fluid and not able to work right away.
of course I do think that using a racing direct drive couple would probably fix most of that issue, but keeping a converter I do not see as an option
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Old 02-01-2008, 11:57 AM
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I did not know that. I guess new motor = new transmission
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
find out why your MPG sucks so bad. i have a messed up injector plug and several broken studs and an autotragic and my 160k VG still pumps out a solid 22-26MPG

and i suppose you could try some sort of custom hybrid system. or maybe just regenerative braking.. that should be more doable, to take load off the alternator so you'd get slightly better MPGs. or disconnect the injector and spark plug wires for the 3 even or odd cylinders and run it on 3 cylinders (via switch if you want... that could work as well, if you can find a way to do that. will work better on a VE) that way you can take advantage of the higher efficiency of running a "1.5L" engine at higher throttle openings (higher throttle being more efficient due to less power lost to the drag created by the throttle butterfly). but that will GREATLY decrease your car's ability to pass or accelerate quickly.
I only got 96K on my so now I know something ain't right. I wanna find out more about that regenerative breaking system. I've also read about it in the same magazine and I wonder how much money and work is involved there. Would it work if I only disconnect two cylinders instead of three? I should probably check my compression also. But it's too damn cold to do anything lengthy now.

Originally Posted by Alex_V
Cant run diesel (and therefore bio diesel), as it needs an entirely different engine. Have fun finding a FWD diesel that will motivate the maxima decently. And swapping it in. Possible just not quite worth it.

But you should be getting way better then 14MPG. Make sure you don't have any fuel leaks, and also all the gas tank hoses are good. If all those check out and the sensors are all OK, you should be getting 22-29mpg.

Or try a turbo setup, maxmaxima91 gets over 30mpg regularly on the highway, no boost of course...

edit As far as the electric setup goes, theres huge limits on powering a car as heavy as the maxima and still getting any decent range at all. You'd fill up your trunk and still want more room. The best electric cars are the lightest ones. The maxima is a horrible candidate for an electric conversion.

~Alex
Why did I always think that the turbo setup meant diesel? But anyway, I did have a leak from one of the 1" hoses near the gas tank. It leaked when car was parked on slope. I sealed it though with some vynil tape and two hose clamps. I've also checked it and it seems to be holding fine, so I don't think that's it. As far as electric setup goes, I think it's nothing that some heavy weight reduction couldn't solve.

Originally Posted by benstoked
after you fix the 14mpg, check out ethanol(E85)
One link I found stated that fuel injectors on some cars(1988-1993) would have to be replaced with a "more modern" style(something about more insulation for the coils, cant find the page)
its cheaper than gas, at $2.16/gal(US) and you have, like, FOUR consumer pumping stations within 20 miles from Burlington, Iowa(i have 2, but theyre Gov't only)
(see http://www.e85refueling.com/ for local stations.)
Hell, I could go on forever, because there is more info on this than gas, maximas, and politics combined(exaggerated, but still)
I heard that ethanol produced less milage than gasoline. But it would still probably be worth looking at after I fix that 14mpg thing as you said, assuming I fix it at all.

Originally Posted by internetautomar
1. you can convert to propane power. it takes money
2. you can only convert to electric with a manual transmission.
3. I think swapping in an SR20DE would be easier than swapping in an electric motor ,though not likely to be efficient around town,

If you are only doing short distance driving with long periods in between of the car being off then your MPG makes sense.
SR20DE? That's interesting. Any idea how much work that woud take? Has anyone done this to a 3rd gen before? I'm gonna definitely check that out. As far as the #2 goes, I knew that, but didn't know why before I read the post. I imagine 5-speed swap would solve that. I fill her up once every two weeks or so. But at $40 full tank, it's still more than I care to spend, not that I have a choice at the moment.

Originally Posted by gfnk357
I don't know what it would take to convert the engine to run on E85 but you can expect a 20-30% decrease in gas mileage using ethanol over gas (even in cars made specifically to run on E85, there's just less energy per gallon), with the decrease in mileage ethanol can cost more per mile to drive with than gas. If you want to look at the decrease yourself, consumer reports has done an article testing the mileage difference and there's plenty of others out there too. My guess for your problem is a fuel leak somewhere, I used to get at least 22mpg in my car but recently I've been getting 15mpg. I've also been getting a gas smell when it's cold so I think I have a leak to track down.
I have a gas smell every once in a while thought it's pretty rare. But that would probably be the easiest thing to check. But yeah, that kind of milage just blows.


A bit off subject, I heard that someone invented a carburator that could get like 60 mpg and then an oil company bought the patent to it and it's never been seen since. Just something my organic chemistry teacher said I thought was interesting. Anyone hear about something like that? Could be just a rumor though, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was true.

Last edited by Deridex; 02-01-2008 at 12:42 PM.
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Old 02-01-2008, 12:53 PM
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well with a little tuning you should be able to get good milage out off E100 you would have to bump the spark up and AFR. every time i have driven through Iowa i put in E gas and have never seen a major drop in MPG, high octan rocks
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Old 02-01-2008, 02:18 PM
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i have also heard about the carberator that got 60+ mpg and yes in fact the oil company did buy it out and it has since never been seen or hard about again.
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Old 02-01-2008, 05:05 PM
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ive also heard of this magical carb and although i think oil companies are EVIL i dont see how this is true its probobly a myth because the fact is that the leanest a/f ratio a gas engine can run on is somthing like 18-20:1 and with efi you can do this but the car still wont get 60mpg it would only increase the mpg a few %maybe from 30 to 35mph and the emiitons would go up and the power would go down thats why they dont run at that ratio from the factory

it also depends on what kind of car your talking about wieght etc

the crime ive read about thats more realistic is the battery pattents that Exxon bought and now wont let the technology be used for cars only electronics thats total BS because aperently if these bats were used in the prius it could achive over 100mpg

i will definitly consider switching to e85 once i get some local stations that have it curently there are none close to me but thats one way to kick big oil in the bals
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:04 PM
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Originally Posted by gfnk357
I used to get at least 22mpg in my car but recently I've been getting 15mpg. I've also been getting a gas smell when it's cold so I think I have a leak to track down.

You have the classic maxima fuel rail problem. the hose connecting the fuel rails under the plenum is what you want to check.
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Old 02-01-2008, 06:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
I only got 96K on my so now I know something ain't right. I wanna find out more about that regenerative breaking system. I've also read about it in the same magazine and I wonder how much money and work is involved there. Would it work if I only disconnect two cylinders instead of three? I should probably check my compression also. But it's too damn cold to do anything lengthy now.


Why did I always think that the turbo setup meant diesel? But anyway, I did have a leak from one of the 1" hoses near the gas tank. It leaked when car was parked on slope. I sealed it though with some vynil tape and two hose clamps. I've also checked it and it seems to be holding fine, so I don't think that's it. As far as electric setup goes, I think it's nothing that some heavy weight reduction couldn't solve.


I heard that ethanol produced less milage than gasoline. But it would still probably be worth looking at after I fix that 14mpg thing as you said, assuming I fix it at all.


SR20DE? That's interesting. Any idea how much work that woud take? Has anyone done this to a 3rd gen before? I'm gonna definitely check that out. As far as the #2 goes, I knew that, but didn't know why before I read the post. I imagine 5-speed swap would solve that. I fill her up once every two weeks or so. But at $40 full tank, it's still more than I care to spend, not that I have a choice at the moment.



I have a gas smell every once in a while thought it's pretty rare. But that would probably be the easiest thing to check. But yeah, that kind of milage just blows.


A bit off subject, I heard that someone invented a carburator that could get like 60 mpg and then an oil company bought the patent to it and it's never been seen since. Just something my organic chemistry teacher said I thought was interesting. Anyone hear about something like that? Could be just a rumor though, but it wouldn't surprise me if it was true.

WTF - is this post for real ?? If you are getting 14 mpg you have something seriously wrong with your engine or transmission. If you are getting a smooth idle and acceleration, then check to see if your transmission is slipping. other wise work on your engine. If you dont know how to work on your engine then forget about every thing else in this thread . It'll cost you more than a new car. I use my car only twice a week (it sits ) and then for very short distances and I get 19 mpg. When I do go out on long trips I get 24 mpg.

Fix what you have - ask for help from someone on the board who lives close to you.
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Old 02-01-2008, 08:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
WTF - is this post for real ?? If you are getting 14 mpg you have something seriously wrong with your engine or transmission. If you are getting a smooth idle and acceleration, then check to see if your transmission is slipping. other wise work on your engine. If you dont know how to work on your engine then forget about every thing else in this thread . It'll cost you more than a new car. I use my car only twice a week (it sits ) and then for very short distances and I get 19 mpg. When I do go out on long trips I get 24 mpg.

Fix what you have - ask for help from someone on the board who lives close to you.
I know, I know, I should take better care of her. But most of what needs to be done to it is probably gonna take several days of work, therefore leaving me without a car for those several days, which I need to get to work and college. Hopefully I'll get to it sometime on spring break. Unfortunately nobody on the Maxima.org live that close to me. At least none that I'm aware of.
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Old 02-02-2008, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
You have the classic maxima fuel rail problem. the hose connecting the fuel rails under the plenum is what you want to check.
he must have it BAD then b/c i have it too sometimes and still get low 20s all the time
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Old 02-02-2008, 09:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
But anyway, I did have a leak from one of the 1" hoses near the gas tank. It leaked when car was parked on slope. I sealed it though with some vynil tape and two hose clamps. I've also checked it and it seems to be holding fine, so I don't think that's it. .
Its still probably leaking. Gasoline will eat through vinyl tape. Heres the part you need (only $12 from nissan.) part 17726

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1627_1631.html

Look above the arrow that says front. it takes less than 10 mins to remove it and replace after you take the wheel off.
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
Its still probably leaking. Gasoline will eat through vinyl tape. Heres the part you need (only $12 from nissan.) part 17726

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...1627_1631.html

Look above the arrow that says front. it takes less than 10 mins to remove it and replace after you take the wheel off.
Yeah, that's the one I was talking about. Is that a common problem? I didn't think gas would eat through vinyl, at least not for a while. I'm gonna go check it out now, but thanks in advance.
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Old 02-02-2008, 10:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
Yeah, that's the one I was talking about. Is that a common problem? I didn't think gas would eat through vinyl, at least not for a while. I'm gonna go check it out now, but thanks in advance.
i had the same problem. mine would leak when i used the automatic filler at the gas station. I eventually fixed it and now the gas tank blows off pressure when i remove the cap, like it should.
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Old 02-02-2008, 12:48 PM
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i've noticed that my ve gas gauge moves faster around the middle
as in the 2nd and 3rd quarters so it could seem like its eating gas ,
but the last or bottom quarter on the gauge moves real slow
and somtimes when its looks almost out it jumps back up a little
my vg-5 seems to have a different gauge movement
and it gets better mpg
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Old 02-02-2008, 05:04 PM
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a few things:
the SR20DE was a joke.
E100 is a VERY bad idea, Ethanol eats normal rubber that is not designed for it.
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Old 02-02-2008, 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
E100 is a VERY bad idea, Ethanol eats normal rubber that is not designed for it.
E85 okay y'think? and if not, shouldn't be more than 10' of hose to replace?
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:22 PM
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Originally Posted by benstoked
E85 okay y'think? and if not, shouldn't be more than 10' of hose to replace?
No - not OK . the maxima is not built for it. To use E85 you need to replace the fuel tank , the fuel pump, all the fuel hose, the injectors to a higher CC and then a custom programmed ECU to deliver more fuel since E*% has about 10% less energy.
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Old 02-02-2008, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
I know, I know, I should take better care of her. Unfortunately nobody on the Maxima.org live that close to me. At least none that I'm aware of.
OK - heres what you do.

1. check the ECU for codes, you may have a dead O2 sensor. IF you have a dead O2 sensor then you need to change it and clean the egr return pipe and valve. Also seafoam the engine.

2. If there are no codes, then first check and correct your timing. A badly retarded timing will give you 14 mpg. then do a tune up. replace your spark plug, wires, rotor, rotor cap, fuel filter, air filter , oil and oil filter.

3. Still does not improve then find a long straight road and put the pedal down. Does the car seem sluggish in any particular gear. YES - crap your transmission is probably going. ( @96k a good probability)

4. Offer anyone on the ORG a six pack and some wings to come help you do all the above

Come back to the ORG with the results.
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Old 02-03-2008, 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by benstoked
E85 okay y'think? and if not, shouldn't be more than 10' of hose to replace?
anything beyond E10 will be problematic.
timing needs to be compensated on the fly based on the mixture in your tank.
while the octane rating is higher, the BTU is lower.

the higher ethanol content eats the o'rings on your injectors, and your fuel lines along with any other non-treated rubber that the fuel comes into contact with.
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Old 02-03-2008, 12:37 PM
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funny i was reading about something very similiar to this!! i think if u have the money u can do what did kid did!! but again..electricity is also expensive

http://www.engadget.com/2008/01/27/1...-us-of-our-wa/
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Old 02-03-2008, 02:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Deridex
I know, I know, I should take better care of her. But most of what needs to be done to it is probably gonna take several days of work, therefore leaving me without a car for those several days, which I need to get to work and college. Hopefully I'll get to it sometime on spring break. Unfortunately nobody on the Maxima.org live that close to me. At least none that I'm aware of.

Okay, it's time to bring some common sense to the discussion here......
You don't have time to do regular, inexpensive maintenance to your car, but you want to convert it to to a HYBRID?!
If you can't live without your car for a few days, then how do you think you're going to find the time or money so buy the stuff and spend the weeks or months required to convert the car to another fuel source?

Don't take this as me being rude.. I just like to step out and kick bad ideas in the *****.

Fix your fuel issues. your filler evap hose on your gas tank is deteriorated and leaking. you're losing gas from it. it's an easy fix to just buy a foot of hose (more like about 4", but I forget the exact length) from the parts store and a couple hose clamps.. jack up the car and spend the 20 minutes to fix it right.

Two. I'll bet the hoses on your fuel rail are leaking too. it's another common issue for these cars, especially when it gets cold.
pull your intake manifold off, clean the manifold, then remove your injectors and replace the hoses holding the fuel rail together. check the injectors for signs of leakage too.

three. I'll bet your O2 sensor is gone. put the ECU into diagnostic mode and run the car to check and see if the O2 sensor is flashing rich/lean properly. download the service manual for more detailed instructions.

four. proper tuneup. new plugs, check belt tension (you'd be amazed what happens when your belts are too tight), plug wires, clean your MAF, reset your idle and timing. check for vacuum leaks.


All that is a day's worth of work. a weekend if you stretch it out. will cost you under $200 and should double your gas mileage.

FYI, I get about 18 around town and I drive my car like I stole it. when I cruise on the highway at anything under 80mph, I get over 30mpg.
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Old 02-03-2008, 04:22 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
Okay, it's time to bring some common sense to the discussion here......
You don't have time to do regular, inexpensive maintenance to your car, but you want to convert it to to a HYBRID?!
If you can't live without your car for a few days, then how do you think you're going to find the time or money so buy the stuff and spend the weeks or months required to convert the car to another fuel source?

Don't take this as me being rude.. I just like to step out and kick bad ideas in the *****.

Fix your fuel issues. your filler evap hose on your gas tank is deteriorated and leaking. you're losing gas from it. it's an easy fix to just buy a foot of hose (more like about 4", but I forget the exact length) from the parts store and a couple hose clamps.. jack up the car and spend the 20 minutes to fix it right.

Two. I'll bet the hoses on your fuel rail are leaking too. it's another common issue for these cars, especially when it gets cold.
pull your intake manifold off, clean the manifold, then remove your injectors and replace the hoses holding the fuel rail together. check the injectors for signs of leakage too.

three. I'll bet your O2 sensor is gone. put the ECU into diagnostic mode and run the car to check and see if the O2 sensor is flashing rich/lean properly. download the service manual for more detailed instructions.

four. proper tuneup. new plugs, check belt tension (you'd be amazed what happens when your belts are too tight), plug wires, clean your MAF, reset your idle and timing. check for vacuum leaks.


All that is a day's worth of work. a weekend if you stretch it out. will cost you under $200 and should double your gas mileage.

FYI, I get about 18 around town and I drive my car like I stole it. when I cruise on the highway at anything under 80mph, I get over 30mpg.
Gee, thanks for castrating that idea. I fixed that evaporation hose yesterday though it was a pain in the *** to get to. But how do you check the belt tension? I replaced the idler pulley and the a/c belt a few months back because my original idler pulley decided to go for a walk while I was on a highway. I just tightened it to what I thought was reasonable. Oh and about having the time to do that stuff, it's just for the duration of the school year. I'll probably have the whole three months of summer do do all the small repairs it needs done. But hey, thanks for the input, that gave me a few ideas as to what to do next.
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:25 PM
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the belts are mostly by feel. There's specs in the FSM, but it's easier to do it by feel and experience than it is to try to get a spring tension gauge in there and a ruler and four arms and a set of eyes....

basically you only want them tight enough that they don't slip when you put the stuff under load.. first start the car, steering at lock, turn on A/C, etc...


.... oh.. and I love crushing hopes and dreams. I'm good at it.
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Old 02-03-2008, 07:27 PM
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matt is the hopes and dreams crusher king..
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE

Two. I'll bet the hoses on your fuel rail are leaking too. it's another common issue for these cars, especially when it gets cold.
pull your intake manifold off, clean the manifold, then remove your injectors and replace the hoses holding the fuel rail together. check the injectors for signs of leakage too.

.

You dont have to take off the injectors. Just cut the hoses in the middle and remove the clamps and hoses. To install place the clamps over the rail, push the hose on and then reposition the clamps and tighten.
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Old 02-04-2008, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
You dont have to take off the injectors. Just cut the hoses in the middle and remove the clamps and hoses. To install place the clamps over the rail, push the hose on and then reposition the clamps and tighten.
Either way, it'll be a first for me. Never had a good reason to mess with the fuel rail or injectors before. Guess now I do.
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Old 02-04-2008, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by jimbo2006
You dont have to take off the injectors. Just cut the hoses in the middle and remove the clamps and hoses. To install place the clamps over the rail, push the hose on and then reposition the clamps and tighten.
The point was to check the injectors for leakage. I've seen lots of o-rings on the injectors leak over time.
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Old 02-04-2008, 06:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Matt93SE
The point was to check the injectors for leakage. I've seen lots of o-rings on the injectors leak over time.
Listen to this man. After my engine was rebuilt, the car still ran like crap and we had NO IDEA why. We had spark, we had air, and there was deff. fuel, but too much. So after inspecting the injectors, some cursing because of all the trouble diagnosing the problem, and replacing the o-rings, the car ran perfect. You may not have had the idling issues I had, but prioritize checking those o-rings for leakage.
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