subs1000w

Originally Posted by Pearl93VE
VG:
Timing Belt + Water Pump every 70k miles = $700

VE:
VTC rebuild/ tensioners every 150k miles = $900

for one the vtc usually start to tick well before 150k ussually around 100k

you can get the belt and pump for the vg for under $50 at a parts store and right around 120 for oem and its so much easier replace those than rebiulding/replacing the vtcs not to mention the vtc can start ticking again after a rebiuld in my opinion there not worth the 10hp they give but i have nothing against a timing chain its just the vtcs that are frustrating

VEvolution

i dont mind a ticking hear and there. as long as its not knocking.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

I dont know dude, I asked around at least 5-6 shops prior to doing my t-belt and the highest I got was $600... I just decided to go to the "family mechanic" of ours.

Labor rate must be ridiculous where you guys live... if it were dealer then I'd understand but just a regular mom and pop shop charging $700...

Who knows, I guess I did get a deal. My gfs entire job including all the stuff I listed for my car costed around $130 except hers included cam and crank seals as well, got that price through my old job which had a VIP account with Advance. Her father and I tackled the job this past fall in my garage.

130 bucks....DIY

Do it yourself VTC?...lets see how much that costs

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

http://www.courtesyparts.com/betasit...-p-248407.html

= $32.36 X 2 + your time to remove/rebuild/reinstall..

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

My cousin just got the GXE done. T-belt, Water Pump, Gaskets, antifreeze, main seal for $800 at the dealer, 12 month, 12,000 mile warranty. All the mom and pops stuff wanted near or just lower with no warranty.

The lowest I got quoted for replacing my cv axles was $500 around here. My VE JUST started clacking (pretty quietly) and I'm at 150,xxx miles.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

You ground yet?

What filter you using?

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

No, I did not ground, but I plan on getting them rebuilt, my engine still pulls hard and the car is in pretty damn good condition, I'll just buy rebuilt assemblies hopefully through classifieds and try to get a dealer to install without warranty.

Right now I am using a V8 Toyota Filter, but since I've started using yota filters instead of my napa gold I've been acquiring more clack, could just be time, could be the filters... don't know.

My next choice is Mobil 1.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Ground them to reduce/eliminate the clack.A ground switch in the cabin somewhere is also a good idea..


+1 definitely use the mobil1 filter..

Pearl93VE

iTrader: (14)

I thought about putting a shutoff switch where the A/T power/comfort switch is once I have a 5-spd which should be a few weeks. Any real noticeable power decrease? I'm thinking once I have a VIM I won't miss them as much... but they really do only rarely clack, maybe 2 minutes after startup, then she purrs.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Some slight power decrease in the top end, but not anything major.

The clack is what destroys the end cap on the vtc assembly if not remedied by grounding or replacement of the weakened springs. Ground them until you replace.

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

Right after I bought my car I had the TB replaced for $365. I have since replaced it again when I did my water pump as preventative maintenance (also did tensioner and cam seals. I don't think all of those parts even added up to $100.

VEvolution

i was using the yota v8 filter without any problem, the second i threw the mobil 1 on, it ticked the whole time and clacked close to oil change time. had the v8 filter back on and all was good again.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Wow..so cheap! If the VTC repair only costs $32.36 X 2, why do so many damn people complain about it and not just get it overwith? Avoid VGs cuz of slowness and gay tbelts but also avoid doing someting that costs less than a damn alternator?

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

Add 2 valve cover gaskets, good RTV, a coolant flush, and probably some fresh oil. If the engine is >150K miles and expected to do more miles, 3 new chain tensioners are in order. You'll be up to about $200-$250 now, not including any tools that werent in your collection before the job started.

Having done it twice myself going only by the guides written by other org members, I will say that it can be frustrating... especially the rear one.

If I had to do it again, I would probably undo the engine mounts, remove the pass-side axle, and lift up the VTC side of the engine a bit in order to have better access to the area, then bring it down to get easy access to the lower chain tensioner.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Well that certainly brings up the price a little more than expected. Oh well, regardless of what engine you have, just expect to spend money on maintenance. I'll just leave it at that.

mikekantor

iTrader: (5)

But not hearing that tick ever again... PRICELESS.

It can be done way cheaper if you cut some corners: skip oil until the next normal oil change, skip tensioners until they wear down a lot more, top off coolant lost from removing the top radiator hose instead of flushing, use RTV instead of new gaskets at the plenum and valve covers.

Everyone knows that cutting corners usually isnt a good idea when working on cars, but if you're comfortable with it as an owner and dont skip anything super critical then I dont suppose its a big deal.

ColombianMax

iTrader: (7)

Meh, do it right or dont do it at all is what I believe...although things change in emergency situations.

maxitech

iTrader: (7)

ALWAYS change your oil after having any part of the engine opened up.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

haha yeah i know what you mean there. Now i have to spend another weekend in the spring to redo half my transmission setup because i didn't have any money for... anything i needed. So far i've spent money on oil seals, tranny jack, gas for the stupid oldsmobile, and 27 and 36mm sockets.

mattdouken

ok ok...i havnt been on to read the post in a while and i seem to be flamed a couple times back there about my post on the VE...now like i said i wasnt trying to be a **** or anything i was stating the obvious..the Vg was the first mass produced V6 engine from japan and nissan even states that there V6 engines of today are all based off of the VG..and the only common problem with them are the manifold bolts, another thing that i have checked up on is that for some reason(i cant seem to figure why)but they make many performance parts for the VG ,cams, valves, rods, pistons, etc. etc.etc...but barely **** for the VE...now im not downing the VE and im not saying if you like the VE your wrong...Im just saying that the VG are alot less problematic then the VE..that is all im saying...

VEvolution

VE = Cool

Edit: And exclusive

shoult

iTrader: (1)

Not repairing the VTC on the VE when they start ticking = tick, tick, tick....

Not Replacing the timing belt on the VG in time = BANG!! CRASH!!! Bent stuff!

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

'nuff said
(says the vg owner...)