i belive my alternator going.....
02-20-2008, 02:47 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,042
i belive my alternator going.....
whats up, first off let me say...i searched and nothing really seemed to help.
92 VE30 auto
but the issue started a bout a month ago when we had the BIG snowstorm in chicago.
i tried to do the right thing and pick up tires for my job (from two different stores) and in turn i think i screwed up my alternator.
since my car did'nt have the side splash guard evrytime the tire splashed water it got on the alt. then there was some burning smell then the abs/batt./brake lamp would come on.
everytime it got wet.
but i only smelled the burning bout 3 times.
i continued to go but did'nt go any faster than 20mph.
got to the second stop let her running.
i noticed my seatbelts were moving slow, the bass from my bose kept fading in and out, my turn signal in my gauges was dim.
had columbianmax (john) come over to my job...btw thanks.
about and hour later or so he drove it and it's fine?
infact it seems when everytime he checks it out, she's fine.
i would do this test though, while she's running i would turn on the fogs, lights, a/c, defog, mirror heat, dissconnect the negative battery cable and she whould keep running.
infact the idle gets a little higher.
then i would use the volt metter sometimes too.
one time with everything on it was showing 11+/- volts.
then there are times where it whould show 14+/- volts.
is this the sign of alt. about to fail??
92 VE30 auto
but the issue started a bout a month ago when we had the BIG snowstorm in chicago.
i tried to do the right thing and pick up tires for my job (from two different stores) and in turn i think i screwed up my alternator.
since my car did'nt have the side splash guard evrytime the tire splashed water it got on the alt. then there was some burning smell then the abs/batt./brake lamp would come on.
everytime it got wet.
but i only smelled the burning bout 3 times.
i continued to go but did'nt go any faster than 20mph.
got to the second stop let her running.
i noticed my seatbelts were moving slow, the bass from my bose kept fading in and out, my turn signal in my gauges was dim.
had columbianmax (john) come over to my job...btw thanks.
about and hour later or so he drove it and it's fine?
infact it seems when everytime he checks it out, she's fine.
i would do this test though, while she's running i would turn on the fogs, lights, a/c, defog, mirror heat, dissconnect the negative battery cable and she whould keep running.
infact the idle gets a little higher.
then i would use the volt metter sometimes too.
one time with everything on it was showing 11+/- volts.
then there are times where it whould show 14+/- volts.
is this the sign of alt. about to fail??
02-20-2008, 02:59 PM
#2
in a word: yes
one of my VEs passed every test we threw at it with flying colors. I finally told my uncle to drive it behind me to drop it off at the house and wouldn't you know, the alt/brake lights popped on a couple times while he was driving it. turned right around and took the car back to the shop and replaced the alternator. problem solved. I did have to fight with AZ to get "my" money back though.
one of my VEs passed every test we threw at it with flying colors. I finally told my uncle to drive it behind me to drop it off at the house and wouldn't you know, the alt/brake lights popped on a couple times while he was driving it. turned right around and took the car back to the shop and replaced the alternator. problem solved. I did have to fight with AZ to get "my" money back though.
02-20-2008, 03:10 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,042
well see here's what worring me since i smelled the burning i don't know if it'll still let me know if the alt is bad or not.
and what really pissed me off is when i told my manager and he had this look on his face like : so and?
and the next day he ask me to pick up some tires?! hell no.
and what really pissed me off is when i told my manager and he had this look on his face like : so and?
and the next day he ask me to pick up some tires?! hell no.
02-20-2008, 03:58 PM
#4
well see here's what worring me since i smelled the burning i don't know if it'll still let me know if the alt is bad or not.
and what really pissed me off is when i told my manager and he had this look on his face like : so and?
and the next day he ask me to pick up some tires?! hell no.
and what really pissed me off is when i told my manager and he had this look on his face like : so and?
and the next day he ask me to pick up some tires?! hell no.
it had a failing alternator (bad voltage regulator) but it was charging fine (volt gauge on dash). I went to do some errands for the store in a snow storm, and my alternator DIED while I was on the south side. I drove back up to the north side with no heat, no lights, no radio, minimal wiper usage (all to conserve battery and eek what little power the alt was putting out) picked up an alternator at one of the other stores (north riverside) drove to my uncle's shop (still had the parts in my car) had him do the alternator right then. finally got back to work (evanston)a couple of hours later and the boss was pissed at me for taking so long.
that company is no longer in business
02-20-2008, 04:59 PM
#7
The cooling fans on the 3rd gen draw a large amount of amps, more then any other accessory on the car, your dying alty can't handle the load.
02-20-2008, 09:12 PM
#9
sorry to cut in on your thread, but i cant post yet....
i repalced the alt on my '92 gxe (in Chicago too) and the alt light came on about 1 week later. That was about 8 months ago. I've been driving around iwth my alt light on for the past 7 or 8 months. I frequently test the volts at the battery and its always over 14 volts, even with everything on.
I think I have a bad battery light or something. Sometimes the battery light is brighter than other times. Any ideas? I am waiting to have my door lock timer replcaed and door keypads.
Thanks.
i repalced the alt on my '92 gxe (in Chicago too) and the alt light came on about 1 week later. That was about 8 months ago. I've been driving around iwth my alt light on for the past 7 or 8 months. I frequently test the volts at the battery and its always over 14 volts, even with everything on.
I think I have a bad battery light or something. Sometimes the battery light is brighter than other times. Any ideas? I am waiting to have my door lock timer replcaed and door keypads.
Thanks.
02-21-2008, 05:50 AM
#10
sorry to cut in on your thread, but i cant post yet....
i repalced the alt on my '92 gxe (in Chicago too) and the alt light came on about 1 week later. That was about 8 months ago. I've been driving around iwth my alt light on for the past 7 or 8 months. I frequently test the volts at the battery and its always over 14 volts, even with everything on.
I think I have a bad battery light or something. Sometimes the battery light is brighter than other times. Any ideas? I am waiting to have my door lock timer replcaed and door keypads.
Thanks.
i repalced the alt on my '92 gxe (in Chicago too) and the alt light came on about 1 week later. That was about 8 months ago. I've been driving around iwth my alt light on for the past 7 or 8 months. I frequently test the volts at the battery and its always over 14 volts, even with everything on.
I think I have a bad battery light or something. Sometimes the battery light is brighter than other times. Any ideas? I am waiting to have my door lock timer replcaed and door keypads.
Thanks.
02-21-2008, 08:28 PM
#11
if you read my post several posts up you will see that I went through something similar years back. your voltage regulator is malfunctioning. the voltage regulator is part of the alternator (it's internal, but can be bought separately). I recommend replacing the alternator now before it fails completely at a really inconvenient time.
02-21-2008, 08:37 PM
#12
Im going to replace the alternator again this weekend. Its still under the autozone warranty. Hopefully the replacement will be good. I've read of people going through many alternators to find a good one. Also gonna change my thermostat and flush the cooling system and replace the large radiator hoses.
good luck..
02-21-2008, 09:27 PM
#13
I've heard stories about people getting bad altys time and time again. one person tested a "new" one before leaving the store with it, and the test came back defective...
do that, just for a small piece of mind...
do that, just for a small piece of mind...
02-21-2008, 09:41 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,042
yea i had to replace the alty on my legend quite a few times from autozone.
g3karl i think if i was u i would go to this place called canos.
i know for my ve they said 130bucks and lifetime too.
thats if you want....
g3karl i think if i was u i would go to this place called canos.
i know for my ve they said 130bucks and lifetime too.
thats if you want....
02-21-2008, 11:36 PM
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
The alt wiring connectors will rot - check em first. These sparking connectors will also possibly burn regulator(s)... worst enemy is the grounding wire. The other is at batt pole, then the two near alt attached to chassis.
I just replaced my spare max alt with cheaper reman stanza 65A model (which son had thrown out after one year) - needs an extra hand made support.
= Rebuild your original, dont buy reman... The mentioned 65A came to life after opening and adding contact grease on the rectifier bolt attachment to the case.
If lights come and go, most probably brushes have worn out and soon the alt is dead. Check this: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Here is a one yr ol Stanza alt ... oxidized all over. Maybe they use solvents not suitable for ALU casings?
I just replaced my spare max alt with cheaper reman stanza 65A model (which son had thrown out after one year) - needs an extra hand made support.
= Rebuild your original, dont buy reman... The mentioned 65A came to life after opening and adding contact grease on the rectifier bolt attachment to the case.
If lights come and go, most probably brushes have worn out and soon the alt is dead. Check this: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Here is a one yr ol Stanza alt ... oxidized all over. Maybe they use solvents not suitable for ALU casings?
02-22-2008, 04:28 AM
#16
The alt wiring connectors will rot - check em first. These sparking connectors will also possibly burn regulator(s)... worst enemy is the grounding wire. The other is at batt pole, then the two near alt attached to chassis.
I just replaced my spare max alt with cheaper reman stanza 65A model (which son had thrown out after one year) - needs an extra hand made support.
= Rebuild your original, dont buy reman... The mentioned 65A came to life after opening and adding contact grease on the rectifier bolt attachment to the case.
If lights come and go, most probably brushes have worn out and soon the alt is dead. Check this: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Here is a one yr ol Stanza alt ... oxidized all over. Maybe they use solvents not suitable for ALU casings?
I just replaced my spare max alt with cheaper reman stanza 65A model (which son had thrown out after one year) - needs an extra hand made support.
= Rebuild your original, dont buy reman... The mentioned 65A came to life after opening and adding contact grease on the rectifier bolt attachment to the case.
If lights come and go, most probably brushes have worn out and soon the alt is dead. Check this: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/23
Here is a one yr ol Stanza alt ... oxidized all over. Maybe they use solvents not suitable for ALU casings?
My current alty charges fine, but has a "scrapping" noise, which gets louder when the lights are turned on, the bearings were swapped with known good bearings. I don't know what is causing the noise..
02-22-2008, 05:29 AM
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
02-22-2008, 05:44 AM
#18
The brushes looked good when i swapped the bearings out..The noise sounds very similar to Maracas ..
02-22-2008, 06:21 AM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
The changing load changes also the noise? If the wiring pckg is loose it possibly could vibrate at the AC current load (a real problem with big generators)...? Main crank bolt is tight? Have you sprayed/swapped the belt?
02-22-2008, 06:31 AM
#20
The wiring is all tight/clean..Crank bolt is tight..The belt is fairly new, in good shape..
It is the alty making the noise, I removed the belt/ran engine to test a while back, the noise is non-existent without the alty belt.
02-22-2008, 06:42 AM
#21
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
Greeny - wasn't it with you I had this discussion at some stage recently? - Wiking is suggesting the same cause if memory serves.
The "wiring" he refers to is the stator coils and its (suspected?) lack of proper use of "potting" resin (completed wound stator gets dipped in resin to prevent exactly this movement of conductors with big currents)
The "wiring" he refers to is the stator coils and its (suspected?) lack of proper use of "potting" resin (completed wound stator gets dipped in resin to prevent exactly this movement of conductors with big currents)
02-22-2008, 06:47 AM
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
With the loose wiring I meant the copper 'coilpack' wound/meshed around the grn steel ring... It has to sit real tight as all magnetics kick it af full force like it was an engine crank axle taking full beating. I think it may be loose in such a way that visual/hand inspection cannot perceive any looseness - and still be noisy.
I suppose the belt could have 'broken inside structure' like a new tire (?), visibly still ok. Swap would prove/disprove its part.
I suppose the belt could have 'broken inside structure' like a new tire (?), visibly still ok. Swap would prove/disprove its part.
02-22-2008, 06:50 AM
#23
Greeny - wasn't it with you I had this discussion at some stage recently? - Wiking is suggesting the same cause if memory serves.
The "wiring" he refers to is the stator coils and its (suspected?) lack of proper use of "potting" resin (completed wound stator gets dipped in resin to prevent exactly this movement of conductors with big currents)
The "wiring" he refers to is the stator coils and its (suspected?) lack of proper use of "potting" resin (completed wound stator gets dipped in resin to prevent exactly this movement of conductors with big currents)
02-22-2008, 06:55 AM
#24
With the loose wiring I meant the copper 'coilpack' wound/meshed around the grn steel ring... It has to sit real tight as all magnetics kick it af full force like it was an engine crank axle taking full beating. I think it may be loose in such a way that visual/hand inspection cannot perceive any looseness - and still be noisy.
I suppose the belt could have 'broken inside structure' like a new tire (?), visibly still ok. Swap would prove/disprove its part.
I suppose the belt could have 'broken inside structure' like a new tire (?), visibly still ok. Swap would prove/disprove its part.
02-22-2008, 07:32 AM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
Next time you have wheel/splash guard out, poke a scope -attached plastic stick through the cooling holes onto the components while engine running and listen.
If the belt was the cause, it would have slower a rhythm.
A strobo light 'stopping' the alt might also give some clue.
02-22-2008, 07:56 AM
#26
That would be weird. The varying mechanical forces stress the bearings, axle and its rotating central core plus this mentioned grn 'coilpack'. The electronics are free from direct mechanical stresses - I have never heard a diode making any noise ... the regulator [1.] could be one source; (I guess its rather complicated electronically.)
Next time you have wheel/splash guard out, poke a scope -attached plastic stick through the cooling holes onto the components while engine running and listen.
If the belt was the cause, it would have slower a rhythm.
A strobo light 'stopping' the alt might also give some clue.
Next time you have wheel/splash guard out, poke a scope -attached plastic stick through the cooling holes onto the components while engine running and listen.
If the belt was the cause, it would have slower a rhythm.
A strobo light 'stopping' the alt might also give some clue.
I have spares of both items, but one of them is known faulty, just don't know which one.
02-22-2008, 08:51 AM
#27
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2007
Posts: 1,042
i had the same noise...there was a thread about the diode pack or something like that.
this member, iirc, said that the diode pack goes bad but the volt regulator could be fine.
but the only time i had that noise is when the alternator got wet so now i no longer have the noise since i replaced the side gaurd.
i went to a part store to get a price check and the guy said he had a maxima too.
i told him about john cleaning the post and me cleaning the alt. big charge wire (still yet to do the ground) but he assures me that my alternator is fine...just the wires were so corroded.
but i still wanna get one for just in case.....
this member, iirc, said that the diode pack goes bad but the volt regulator could be fine.
but the only time i had that noise is when the alternator got wet so now i no longer have the noise since i replaced the side gaurd.
i went to a part store to get a price check and the guy said he had a maxima too.
i told him about john cleaning the post and me cleaning the alt. big charge wire (still yet to do the ground) but he assures me that my alternator is fine...just the wires were so corroded.
but i still wanna get one for just in case.....
02-22-2008, 09:23 AM
#28
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
02-22-2008, 09:54 AM
#29
I guess the only problem measurable would be direct short circuit... the only way is to install and test 
I plucked some schematics for you to see wassup in the regulator, edited a little bit:
[IM]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_572_full.jpg[/IMG]
.
[IM]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_573_full.jpg[/IMG]
I plucked some schematics for you to see wassup in the regulator, edited a little bit:
[IM]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_572_full.jpg[/IMG]
.
[IM]http://memimage.cardomain.net/member_images/4/web/748000-748999/748507_573_full.jpg[/IMG]
But the problem with one or the other of these 2 parts is the part actually blows my big main fusible link when installed in the alty. at $10 per fuse, i really don't want to experiment by putting each one in the alty to test..
02-22-2008, 10:22 AM
#30
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
Blows when engine running or merely "there" and ignition switched off?
02-22-2008, 10:26 AM
#31
02-22-2008, 10:28 AM
#32
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
So is it shorting: see the schema, does reg pin F short direct to GND?
Cheap DIY Fuse: wraparound copper wire thread bridging the burned fuse. One single thin wire can stand about 5 amps. This means 20 single wires wrapped around should stand 100A. To ensure, take one main driving light bulb (60W = 5Amps at 12V) and experiment with your self-bridged FUSE...
To test a working DIY 5A fuse wire thickness: with one main light bulb it should be ok, adding one brake bulb in series - it should burn. Each added wire will add 5 more Amps to this DIY-fuse value. After soldering such wire will be almost as good as new fuse...
Cheap DIY Fuse: wraparound copper wire thread bridging the burned fuse. One single thin wire can stand about 5 amps. This means 20 single wires wrapped around should stand 100A. To ensure, take one main driving light bulb (60W = 5Amps at 12V) and experiment with your self-bridged FUSE...
To test a working DIY 5A fuse wire thickness: with one main light bulb it should be ok, adding one brake bulb in series - it should burn. Each added wire will add 5 more Amps to this DIY-fuse value. After soldering such wire will be almost as good as new fuse...
02-22-2008, 10:35 AM
#33
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Pretoria - South Africa
Posts: 1,205
or just stick a fat 12V bulb (headlamp bulb) in series with the thick battery cable going to the alt with the regulator removed - if the light goes on you know you have a short - my bet is you have a blown diode on one of the plates.
02-24-2008, 12:25 PM
#35
i just swapped in a warranty replacement from autozone about 1 or 2 hours ago. No more battery light and the volts are good. Knock on wood....hopefully it will last for a very long time. If not, nothing like a lifetime warranty!
*edit* also tested the alternator before leaving autozone and it passed.
*edit* also tested the alternator before leaving autozone and it passed.
Last edited by G3Karl; 02-24-2008 at 12:28 PM.
02-24-2008, 03:26 PM
#36
i just swapped in a warranty replacement from autozone about 1 or 2 hours ago. No more battery light and the volts are good. Knock on wood....hopefully it will last for a very long time. If not, nothing like a lifetime warranty!
*edit* also tested the alternator before leaving autozone and it passed.
*edit* also tested the alternator before leaving autozone and it passed.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
TallTom
5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
50
07-08-2022 09:54 AM
My Coffee
New Member Introductions
15
06-06-2017 02:01 PM