My brake pedal has gotten harder to press recently. From searching around the internets it looks like it's most likely a problem with my caliper(s). I replaced my pads and front rotors about 6 months ago and did notice some rust in the cyclinder and the dust boot was torn a little bit.

Nissan has a rebuild kit for $39 but I've also noticed some on the org have replaced one or both calipers.

How do you know if the caliper needs to be replaced or if a rebuild will suffice?

Thanks.

 

check your caliper slide pins first, they may be seized up/rusted.

 

Depends on how much time you want to spend on it, how much money you want to spend, and how many tools you have.

I rebuilt my calipers and it's a PITA! You will need to thoroughly clean them up (inside and out) and you will need an air compressor to get the pistons out. The dust boots require LOTS of patients to install. A large bench vice and large C-clamp is also required equipment.

 

that sounds like a brake booster/vacuum issue.

 

I saw that too. This has only started happening since I did my valve cover gaskets a few weekends ago. Do you deal with any of the brake vacuum lines when you take the upper intake off? The thing is it didn't start happening right away. Like I said, the vc gaskets were done 3 weeks ago and I've just noticed the hard brakes in the last couple days.

The reason I was thinking caliper is because like I said, when I did the pads the caliper did not look too good.

Oh, and, forgot to mention I need to bleed the brakes. It's been awhile and the fluid is pretty dirty.

 

So this is similar to LCA bushings? PITA to rebuild the caliper just like it's a PITA to just replace the bushings as opposed to replacing the whole control arm w/bushings.

I have everything except the bench vise (and the time actually).

 

I will. I looked at them when I did the pads though and everything looked good. The grease was in good shape.

 

You'll also need a large brake cylinder hone if there are imperfections in the bore. Also some 1000 grit or better sandpaper to polish the puck (that just sounds wrong!) for the same problems. You also need some hi-temp brake lube and make sure the caliper slides are clean, corrosion free and well lubed. A nice set of picks will help ease the boot into place.

It's not a HARD job to do, but it is painstaking slow, requiring lots of patience and attention to detail. Even then, there's no guarantee that the caliper will work when you're done.

For me, even though I've done dozens of them, I'd rather buy a new/rebuilt/refurbed big box parts store caliper with a warranty then go through all the effort to rebuild a caliper. Same with Master and slave cylinders.

Just personal preference.

 

Thank you very much! I will recheck my vacuum lines as there were a couple that I thought were still good enough to use but since I'm a noob this could be a mistake on my part. I'll also look at the pistons.

If it is not a vacuum issue and is the calipers I am definitely replacing the whole caliper. They are less money than I thought and my time is worth more than that.

 

I have one front caliper for sale. I'll have to see what side. Which one is bad on yours?

 

I don't even know yet. Just noticed the hard pedal yesterday.

I guess I just take the wheels off and look at them as the brake pedal's depressed to find out??

 

+1 on the pick set. You really shouldn't need a brake cylinder hone because there is no reason the bore should be scored. But if there are any small imperfections, sand paper is cheap enough, like he said.

 

Oh boy, a thread about troubleshooting brake issues!

When you hold the pedal down while starting the car, does it drop down a bit immediately after starting?

Does the car stop evenly, or pull to a side?

 

I'll have to check both these things and get back to you. Up to this point my diagnosing has been limited to searching the org/internet based on my hard brake pedal.

The stop evenly part will be hard because my pass side lca bushing is shot so the car always pulls to the right.

 

I have both sides for sale.

 

yeah i takes a LOT of mental patients to do a brake job properly.

 

$20 for JY calipers
$20 for boots and hardware kit (kit not installed... still in the mail)
$6 for caliper paints
2 hours wire wheeling and grinding + paint.

I just rebuild this 20 minutes ago, it took about 30 minutes to load in the seals, boots, and pistons. You just need a little technique and lube the seals and piston with brake fluid.




The first time is tricky to rebuild them. But once learned I've saved alot of money saving my old calipers! Never had a caliper fail that I rebuilt.

 

No.

Nothing *really* noticeable.

I'm starting to think this is a vacuum issue. The hose from the brake booster into the back of the upper intake has some cracks on the end that goes into the ui. It's weird because today the pedal is better. I'm going to replace that hose and another vacuum hose and go from there.

 

ay yo those calipers look good mang.

i once did a pair of iron z32 calipers and wasnt no biggie, just used a pair of pliers, twisted as i lifted and they came right out. dont go to ape tho cuz youlll wreck the lip, then you wont be able to get the boot on. i always installed the bot with the piston exposed halfway, easier i guess.


i bet after yo ureplace that hose your problem is going to be gone...