Exhaust Studs
#2
Start the engine, pop the hood, and listen! In some cases you can also feel the exhaust by holding your hand above the manifold. If they haven't ever been replaced, then chances are you need to do it.
#7
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Posts: n/a
Indeed. Even max's that have been repaired before have broken studs again a few years down the road. Or so Ive read on here. But the quality of the workmanship and replacement studs (non OEM etc etc) was questionable.
Do it right with OEM studs and it should last a while.
~Alex
Do it right with OEM studs and it should last a while.
~Alex
#11
Member
iTrader: (4)
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Long Beach, CA is where i live. Queens NYC is always home.
Posts: 297
Our cars seem to have a " sickness" for broken studs Both of my 3rd gens had broken ones. Both VE AND VG... Use z31 TURBO studs and replace em all.The tricky one is behind the power steering pump..lol
#13
There is a write up how to replace them. I did it the first time to the 't' according to the write up by drilling and EZ outting them. That took me 6 hours to back out about 8 broken ones. The 2nd Time I did it it only took an hour with a Mig welder! Just build a weld out by hitting the broken stud, then weld a bolt on to it and wrench it out
#14
I bought mine at 124K with no broken studs. By 130K I had broken 4. I replaced ALL of the studs, washers and nuts with the z31 parts in the driveway of my apartment complex over one weekend. Thank God for right angle drills and left twist drill bits..... oh and PB Blaster!!!!!
#21
#22
The replacement studs (Z31) are little better, but not perfect
I did the studs TWICE. Back in 1998 and then again in 2007.
I did replace one window regulator, but transmission still shifts like it did 11 years ago when I bought the car.
I did the studs TWICE. Back in 1998 and then again in 2007.
I did replace one window regulator, but transmission still shifts like it did 11 years ago when I bought the car.
#23
#24
Here's what I did recently.... Not studs but was super cheap and pretty strong, surely not as strong as a turbo stud.
The bolts are rated 10.9 and thread in much further than a regular stud.
#25
Why in the stickies of course. http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...68&postcount=7
Here's what I did recently.... Not studs but was super cheap and pretty strong, surely not as strong as a turbo stud.
The bolts are rated 10.9 and thread in much further than a regular stud.
Here's what I did recently.... Not studs but was super cheap and pretty strong, surely not as strong as a turbo stud.
The bolts are rated 10.9 and thread in much further than a regular stud.
#26
um, be careful when you use longer bolts. some places a longer bolt will either come out the other side or bottom out and break something inside the block (seen it happen many times before)
#27
I measured and trimmed the bolts.... I them 1-2 mm shorter than the full length.
I don't know the what class the turbo studs are.
Last edited by goon9; 05-28-2008 at 06:08 PM.
#28
#29
Why in the stickies of course. http://forums.maxima.org/showpost.ph...68&postcount=7
Here's what I did recently.... Not studs but was super cheap and pretty strong, surely not as strong as a turbo stud.
The bolts are rated 10.9 and thread in much further than a regular stud.
Here's what I did recently.... Not studs but was super cheap and pretty strong, surely not as strong as a turbo stud.
The bolts are rated 10.9 and thread in much further than a regular stud.
--->I guess no scheduling in bolts change with these gasoline prices... Stud broke and now O2 semi-froze.
#30
you might want to add a few of the Scandanavian Blondies to the list of promises... and maybe a few pints of something that burns a little on the way down that we don't get in the States.
#31
Maxima drinks all, driver none.
#32
I agree, plus the OEM ones are possibly weaker than other generic stuff available out there. I bought 2 long ones from Nissan and there isn't even a strength rating on it. I found 12.9 bolts for .80 a piece - not through Nissan.
#34
#35
Good post answers my ticking question; turns out i have a bolt missing. But now my other question. This week i have been having trouble starting my car from cold.(its fine once its warm) So of course i have been popin the clutch but anyway i stop today at the gas station to fill her up. When i went to start her and pull off i couldn't get the car over 2000rpm with out sputtering. I have not put the bolt in but could that be the cause?
#36
Good post answers my ticking question; turns out i have a bolt missing. But now my other question. This week i have been having trouble starting my car from cold.(its fine once its warm) So of course i have been popin the clutch but anyway i stop today at the gas station to fill her up. When i went to start her and pull off i couldn't get the car over 2000rpm with out sputtering. I have not put the bolt in but could that be the cause?
#37
Yes it would still climb but slowly so i would just switch out. But under futher review it looks like i am missing 2 bolts and also seems like the gasket has burned away. Ill take some pictures to show. VG motor.
#38
The studs don't break off because they're too weak. The studs are breaking off because they were installed improperly at the factory.
You're not supposed to bottom the stud out in the bottom of the hole OR butt the tapered shoulder against the side of the head. either of these actions will cause points of high stress in the bolt and will cause premature failure.
I'll scan the article I'm referring to when I get some time.
You're not supposed to bottom the stud out in the bottom of the hole OR butt the tapered shoulder against the side of the head. either of these actions will cause points of high stress in the bolt and will cause premature failure.
I'll scan the article I'm referring to when I get some time.
#39
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=2v0zzbc&s=3
pic of studs / gasket
pic of studs / gasket
#40
The studs don't break off because they're too weak. The studs are breaking off because they were installed improperly at the factory.
You're not supposed to bottom the stud out in the bottom of the hole OR butt the tapered shoulder against the side of the head. either of these actions will cause points of high stress in the bolt and will cause premature failure.
I'll scan the article I'm referring to when I get some time.
You're not supposed to bottom the stud out in the bottom of the hole OR butt the tapered shoulder against the side of the head. either of these actions will cause points of high stress in the bolt and will cause premature failure.
I'll scan the article I'm referring to when I get some time.