Source for "soft" screws that hold in injectors
#1
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Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: Pequot Lakes, MN
Posts: 144
Source for "soft" screws that hold in injectors
First off, I have a VG. I noticed the last time I replaced a few injectors that the phillips screws that hold the caps on them are very soft. A few of them are somewhat chewed up and I would like to replace them when I swap out a few more injectors in a few days. Does anyone know off the top of their head what they are/where I can get them? I'm asking because I would like to find this info out before I take them out so I can have them on hand at swap time. Thanks in advance :-)
#2
I think we only know the thread size, it was covered here a while back IIRC.
to get them loose with out further damage either use an impact driver or a screwdriver and a hammer (hit screwdriver top while turning gently).
it worked for us 10 times
to get them loose with out further damage either use an impact driver or a screwdriver and a hammer (hit screwdriver top while turning gently).
it worked for us 10 times
#4
My dad gave me two impact drivers a year ago. I recently had to swap out some injectors. I had ZERO stripped and it took about two minutes to remove ALL 24 screws (two fuel rails). Bang- Bang....next, bang- bang....next and so on! They looked brand new going back in too! Lovely peice of mechanics those drivers!
As long as you know the threads, you should be able to match them up at any store, Lowe's, Home Depot, True Value/Ace Hardware, etc. Know the threads and length, you should also be able to use hex head or something else if you like. I noticed just today at my local True Value that you can get chrome versions of hex, phillip, custom, etc bolts/nuts/washers. So, pull a screw from your rail and take it in for match up.
As long as you know the threads, you should be able to match them up at any store, Lowe's, Home Depot, True Value/Ace Hardware, etc. Know the threads and length, you should also be able to use hex head or something else if you like. I noticed just today at my local True Value that you can get chrome versions of hex, phillip, custom, etc bolts/nuts/washers. So, pull a screw from your rail and take it in for match up.
#6
I've never had any problem removing the screws, but if it did happen to me, this is what i would do to remedy the problem..
BTW, here is my injector removal video if anyone needs it..
http://www.viddler.com/explore/MyGreenMax/videos/5/
#7
Watched video: Me thinks someone loosened the screws before pressing play. I sense a Racheal Ray fast one! 30 Minute meals my tail end! LOL!
Seriously Wayne, great video. Though I'm not sure if at the end you were saying "TA-DA!" or "See told you so, Newbie!" I'm curious though, what is potential for busting end caps or damaging jet opening at the tip when hammering out? Why not just hit with rubber mallet, isn't it softer and less likely to apply force on the injector at an angle?
I ask mostly because I recently removed injectors as previously mentioned and I just used plyers, twisted, and pulled up. Not pretty or easy on top caps!
Seriously Wayne, great video. Though I'm not sure if at the end you were saying "TA-DA!" or "See told you so, Newbie!" I'm curious though, what is potential for busting end caps or damaging jet opening at the tip when hammering out? Why not just hit with rubber mallet, isn't it softer and less likely to apply force on the injector at an angle?
I ask mostly because I recently removed injectors as previously mentioned and I just used plyers, twisted, and pulled up. Not pretty or easy on top caps!
#8
Nope, they were the original screws on my ve rails, you need to have the correct tipped screwdriver head (kinda fat tipped) otherwise you will strip the screw heads.
I used the plastic tipped end of my channel locks, so i wouldn't mess up the tiny jet openings, it didn't. On my particular end caps, they had 4 little plastic fingers, yes they were broken upon removal of the injector, but only the fingers, so no real damage done.
Try my method the next time you remove an injector, it really works nicely.
I used the plastic tipped end of my channel locks, so i wouldn't mess up the tiny jet openings, it didn't. On my particular end caps, they had 4 little plastic fingers, yes they were broken upon removal of the injector, but only the fingers, so no real damage done.
Try my method the next time you remove an injector, it really works nicely.
#9
Nope, they were the original screws on my ve rails, you need to have the correct tipped screwdriver head (kinda fat tipped) otherwise you will strip the screw heads.
I used the plastic tipped end of my channel locks, so i wouldn't mess up the tiny jet openings, it didn't. On my particular end caps, they had 4 little plastic fingers, yes they were broken upon removal of the injector, but only the fingers, so no real damage done.
Try my method the next time you remove an injector, it really works nicely.
I used the plastic tipped end of my channel locks, so i wouldn't mess up the tiny jet openings, it didn't. On my particular end caps, they had 4 little plastic fingers, yes they were broken upon removal of the injector, but only the fingers, so no real damage done.
Try my method the next time you remove an injector, it really works nicely.
#10
the injectors i have removed from the rails in this fashion had no identifiable dents/mars or any other signs of damage on the tips/injector holes that would make them unusable in any way.
Last edited by Greeny; 04-25-2008 at 06:49 PM.
#11
#12
looks good. i'll DEFINITELY swap for some of those when i do my injectors, even if i don't mess up any of the screws.
#13
Yes, the little fingers on the pintle cap ends were obviously destroyed upon removal, i would probably replace the pintle cap if i were to reuse the injector, but i really don't think they serve any critical purpose..
#14
wait doesn't the very tip fit into something else.. the LIM?
#15
i heard it was to hold an o-ring in place. tho maybe this can be remedied by installing the injector by assembling everything upside down and flipping it back over once you're ready to put the screws back in.
wait doesn't the very tip fit into something else.. the LIM?
wait doesn't the very tip fit into something else.. the LIM?
#16
#17
It's pretty easy to remove those screws without stripping the head, just use the correct size philips head and which is a 2 IIRC, and apply some downward pressure when turning. If you try and use an undersized driver, you'll do nothing but strip that sucker.
#18
That usaully works, I had Some trouble, the ones I did strip came off with some vise-grips.
#19
Using the right phillips head is absolutely necessary, but I disagree that it is always that simple. I've used the proper "fat head" with downward force and them stupid screws still be jammed and try to strip. Again, I am a HUGE advocate for the impact driver!
Wayne's just like Sampson, he's got all that hair (Just not on his head) that gives him super strength!
Wayne's just like Sampson, he's got all that hair (Just not on his head) that gives him super strength!
#20
Using the right phillips head is absolutely necessary, but I disagree that it is always that simple. I've used the proper "fat head" with downward force and them stupid screws still be jammed and try to strip. Again, I am a HUGE advocate for the impact driver!
Wayne's just like Sampson, he's got all that hair (Just not on his head) that gives him super strength!
Wayne's just like Sampson, he's got all that hair (Just not on his head) that gives him super strength!
#21
anyone say the thread yet? by looking at the picture id guess m6 or m5 (since everything else is metric) by maybe 10mm (3/8") or 12mm (1/2")
im a machinist, so i can usually look at something and eyeballs its size within like .030 thousands. lol
im a machinist, so i can usually look at something and eyeballs its size within like .030 thousands. lol
#22
Opps, I forgot to mention in my post that the bolts I used are M5 and 16mm long.
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