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Source for "soft" screws that hold in injectors

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Old Apr 22, 2008 | 12:35 PM
  #1  
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Source for "soft" screws that hold in injectors

First off, I have a VG. I noticed the last time I replaced a few injectors that the phillips screws that hold the caps on them are very soft. A few of them are somewhat chewed up and I would like to replace them when I swap out a few more injectors in a few days. Does anyone know off the top of their head what they are/where I can get them? I'm asking because I would like to find this info out before I take them out so I can have them on hand at swap time. Thanks in advance :-)
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 12:38 PM
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I think we only know the thread size, it was covered here a while back IIRC.
to get them loose with out further damage either use an impact driver or a screwdriver and a hammer (hit screwdriver top while turning gently).
it worked for us 10 times
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 12:48 PM
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I had to use a needle nose vice grips and gently rock them back/forth to get them to break loose.
Old Apr 22, 2008 | 06:07 PM
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My dad gave me two impact drivers a year ago. I recently had to swap out some injectors. I had ZERO stripped and it took about two minutes to remove ALL 24 screws (two fuel rails). Bang- Bang....next, bang- bang....next and so on! They looked brand new going back in too! Lovely peice of mechanics those drivers!

As long as you know the threads, you should be able to match them up at any store, Lowe's, Home Depot, True Value/Ace Hardware, etc. Know the threads and length, you should also be able to use hex head or something else if you like. I noticed just today at my local True Value that you can get chrome versions of hex, phillip, custom, etc bolts/nuts/washers. So, pull a screw from your rail and take it in for match up.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 10:37 AM
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I highly reccomend just replacing the soft screw with hex heads. you'll never have a problem with those dumb soft screws again. they are very cheap, easy to match.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 02:20 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
I highly reccomend just replacing the soft screw with hex heads. you'll never have a problem with those dumb soft screws again. they are very cheap, easy to match.
Good advice thar..

I've never had any problem removing the screws, but if it did happen to me, this is what i would do to remedy the problem..

BTW, here is my injector removal video if anyone needs it..

http://www.viddler.com/explore/MyGreenMax/videos/5/
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 04:57 PM
  #7  
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Watched video: Me thinks someone loosened the screws before pressing play. I sense a Racheal Ray fast one! 30 Minute meals my tail end! LOL!

Seriously Wayne, great video. Though I'm not sure if at the end you were saying "TA-DA!" or "See told you so, Newbie!" I'm curious though, what is potential for busting end caps or damaging jet opening at the tip when hammering out? Why not just hit with rubber mallet, isn't it softer and less likely to apply force on the injector at an angle?

I ask mostly because I recently removed injectors as previously mentioned and I just used plyers, twisted, and pulled up. Not pretty or easy on top caps!
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:19 PM
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Nope, they were the original screws on my ve rails, you need to have the correct tipped screwdriver head (kinda fat tipped) otherwise you will strip the screw heads.


I used the plastic tipped end of my channel locks, so i wouldn't mess up the tiny jet openings, it didn't. On my particular end caps, they had 4 little plastic fingers, yes they were broken upon removal of the injector, but only the fingers, so no real damage done.

Try my method the next time you remove an injector, it really works nicely.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Nope, they were the original screws on my ve rails, you need to have the correct tipped screwdriver head (kinda fat tipped) otherwise you will strip the screw heads.


I used the plastic tipped end of my channel locks, so i wouldn't mess up the tiny jet openings, it didn't. On my particular end caps, they had 4 little plastic fingers, yes they were broken upon removal of the injector, but only the fingers, so no real damage done.

Try my method the next time you remove an injector, it really works nicely.
would you advocate putting something "soft" over the injector tip like a folded up hankie before whacking it?
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
would you advocate putting something "soft" over the injector tip like a folded up hankie before whacking it?
Sure, do what ever makes you comfortable, anything softer then metal will work.

the injectors i have removed from the rails in this fashion had no identifiable dents/mars or any other signs of damage on the tips/injector holes that would make them unusable in any way.

Last edited by Greeny; Apr 25, 2008 at 06:49 PM.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:48 PM
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Originally Posted by maximaman1313
I highly reccomend just replacing the soft screw with hex heads. you'll never have a problem with those dumb soft screws again. they are very cheap, easy to match.
Thats what I did. Found some SS allen bolt screws.

Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Sure, do what ever makes you comfortable, anything softer then metal will work.

the injectors i have removed from the rails in this fashion had no identifiable dents/mars or any other signs of damage on the tips/injector holes that would make them unusable in any way.
so the only real damage you experienced, if any, was to the pintle caps then, correct?

Originally Posted by Maxpwer
Thats what I did. Found some SS allen bolt screws.

looks good. i'll DEFINITELY swap for some of those when i do my injectors, even if i don't mess up any of the screws.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 06:57 PM
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Yes, the little fingers on the pintle cap ends were obviously destroyed upon removal, i would probably replace the pintle cap if i were to reuse the injector, but i really don't think they serve any critical purpose..
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Yes, the little fingers on the pintle cap ends were obviously destroyed upon removal, i would probably replace the pintle cap if i were to reuse the injector, but i really don't think they serve any critical purpose..
i heard it was to hold an o-ring in place. tho maybe this can be remedied by installing the injector by assembling everything upside down and flipping it back over once you're ready to put the screws back in.

wait doesn't the very tip fit into something else.. the LIM?
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by capedcadaver
i heard it was to hold an o-ring in place. tho maybe this can be remedied by installing the injector by assembling everything upside down and flipping it back over once you're ready to put the screws back in.

wait doesn't the very tip fit into something else.. the LIM?
Not sure atm, i would have to look at the rail to find out for sure, but i am off to bed now..
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 07:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
Not sure atm, i would have to look at the rail to find out for sure, but i am off to bed now..
aight weekend warrior. no rush. i'm not doing injectors for MANY months. i should not have said that i just jinxed myself.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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It's pretty easy to remove those screws without stripping the head, just use the correct size philips head and which is a 2 IIRC, and apply some downward pressure when turning. If you try and use an undersized driver, you'll do nothing but strip that sucker.
Old Apr 25, 2008 | 09:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Hectic
It's pretty easy to remove those screws without stripping the head, just use the correct size philips head and which is a 2 IIRC, and apply some downward pressure when turning. If you try and use an undersized driver, you'll do nothing but strip that sucker.
That usaully works, I had Some trouble, the ones I did strip came off with some vise-grips.
Old Apr 26, 2008 | 12:43 PM
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Using the right phillips head is absolutely necessary, but I disagree that it is always that simple. I've used the proper "fat head" with downward force and them stupid screws still be jammed and try to strip. Again, I am a HUGE advocate for the impact driver!

Wayne's just like Sampson, he's got all that hair (Just not on his head) that gives him super strength!
Old Apr 26, 2008 | 04:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Using the right phillips head is absolutely necessary, but I disagree that it is always that simple. I've used the proper "fat head" with downward force and them stupid screws still be jammed and try to strip. Again, I am a HUGE advocate for the impact driver!

Wayne's just like Sampson, he's got all that hair (Just not on his head) that gives him super strength!
Ban!!















Old Apr 26, 2008 | 05:19 PM
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anyone say the thread yet? by looking at the picture id guess m6 or m5 (since everything else is metric) by maybe 10mm (3/8") or 12mm (1/2")
im a machinist, so i can usually look at something and eyeballs its size within like .030 thousands. lol
Old Apr 26, 2008 | 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by MaximaN00b
anyone say the thread yet? by looking at the picture id guess m6 or m5 (since everything else is metric) by maybe 10mm (3/8") or 12mm (1/2")
im a machinist, so i can usually look at something and eyeballs its size within like .030 thousands. lol
Opps, I forgot to mention in my post that the bolts I used are M5 and 16mm long.
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