Cold Air Intake Pics
05-27-2008, 09:13 AM
#1
Cold Air Intake Pics
Can a few people on this Forum please post pics of there full Cold Air Intake. When i say full i mean the ones that go around the battery and down the fender where the original Intake was. I am asking this because i have a Short CAI and just received the Honda Intake to fit it in my car. I heard i Have to Cut Spare Metal Away to fit it in correctly. Could someone point this out in a picture so i know what i am doing when i get out of work today. When i get mine complete i will post it in the thread as well. Thank you for your help.
05-27-2008, 09:56 AM
#2
I'm sure this has been beaten down so many times by now and you can find it through search; I think I've explained this around 3 times in the last month alone actually; oh well though... don't forget that search button is up there.
You'll get two pipes, an S-pipe and a Long pipe with a 70degree bend, along with those two, you'll need another 90 degree bend short pipe. I believe you'll need to trim the S-pipe AND the longer straight pipe with the bend on one end a little, maybe an inch or two on both, possibly more... You'll also need an extra cuplink or two. The S-pipe goes in place where the current black plastic S-pipe is with the resonator. (Going from the Lower Intake Manifold to the MAF), then you'll need an MAF adapter, I made mine out of Mobile home PVC pipe and drilled through it where the bolts would mount, then just used nuts on the other side. After that, the 70 degree pipe will connect to the MAF adapter plate you made and go down beside the battery and below the fuse box mounted near the drivers side headlight, you may need to take it out to get the pipe below it.
Now, here is where the cutting begins, you'll need a handheld pair of metal snips or something strong enough to cut through sheet metal. There is a hole below/ beside the drivers side headlight that the 90 degree bend pipe will need to go into, just keep trimming until you can fit it in there and it goes inside the fender area (under the headlight)
Once you've dry fit everything and it all seems ok, I'd suggest taking the 90 degree bend pipe off, putting the air filter on one end, then feeding the whole thing up from underneath, and through the headlight hole where someone can grab it from above and stick it in the cuplink connecting the long pipe with the 70 degree bend on the other end.
Also, take note the air filter it comes with is **** and I reccomend getting a K&N quickly after, size is 2.75" but 3" will work if you have some nice cuplinks.
You'll get two pipes, an S-pipe and a Long pipe with a 70degree bend, along with those two, you'll need another 90 degree bend short pipe. I believe you'll need to trim the S-pipe AND the longer straight pipe with the bend on one end a little, maybe an inch or two on both, possibly more... You'll also need an extra cuplink or two. The S-pipe goes in place where the current black plastic S-pipe is with the resonator. (Going from the Lower Intake Manifold to the MAF), then you'll need an MAF adapter, I made mine out of Mobile home PVC pipe and drilled through it where the bolts would mount, then just used nuts on the other side. After that, the 70 degree pipe will connect to the MAF adapter plate you made and go down beside the battery and below the fuse box mounted near the drivers side headlight, you may need to take it out to get the pipe below it.
Now, here is where the cutting begins, you'll need a handheld pair of metal snips or something strong enough to cut through sheet metal. There is a hole below/ beside the drivers side headlight that the 90 degree bend pipe will need to go into, just keep trimming until you can fit it in there and it goes inside the fender area (under the headlight)
Once you've dry fit everything and it all seems ok, I'd suggest taking the 90 degree bend pipe off, putting the air filter on one end, then feeding the whole thing up from underneath, and through the headlight hole where someone can grab it from above and stick it in the cuplink connecting the long pipe with the 70 degree bend on the other end.
Also, take note the air filter it comes with is **** and I reccomend getting a K&N quickly after, size is 2.75" but 3" will work if you have some nice cuplinks.
05-27-2008, 10:02 AM
#3
I'm sure this has been beaten down so many times by now and you can find it through search; I think I've explained this around 3 times in the last month alone actually; oh well though... don't forget that search button is up there.
You'll get two pipes, an S-pipe and a Long pipe with a 70degree bend, along with those two, you'll need another 90 degree bend short pipe. I believe you'll need to trim the S-pipe AND the longer straight pipe with the bend on one end a little, maybe an inch or two on both, possibly more... You'll also need an extra cuplink or two. The S-pipe goes in place where the current black plastic S-pipe is with the resonator. (Going from the Lower Intake Manifold to the MAF), then you'll need an MAF adapter, I made mine out of Mobile home PVC pipe and drilled through it where the bolts would mount, then just used nuts on the other side. After that, the 70 degree pipe will connect to the MAF adapter plate you made and go down beside the battery and below the fuse box mounted near the drivers side headlight, you may need to take it out to get the pipe below it.
Now, here is where the cutting begins, you'll need a handheld pair of metal snips or something strong enough to cut through sheet metal. There is a hole below/ beside the drivers side headlight that the 90 degree bend pipe will need to go into, just keep trimming until you can fit it in there and it goes inside the fender area (under the headlight)
Once you've dry fit everything and it all seems ok, I'd suggest taking the 90 degree bend pipe off, putting the air filter on one end, then feeding the whole thing up from underneath, and through the headlight hole where someone can grab it from above and stick it in the cuplink connecting the long pipe with the 70 degree bend on the other end.
Also, take note the air filter it comes with is **** and I reccomend getting a K&N quickly after, size is 2.75" but 3" will work if you have some nice cuplinks.
You'll get two pipes, an S-pipe and a Long pipe with a 70degree bend, along with those two, you'll need another 90 degree bend short pipe. I believe you'll need to trim the S-pipe AND the longer straight pipe with the bend on one end a little, maybe an inch or two on both, possibly more... You'll also need an extra cuplink or two. The S-pipe goes in place where the current black plastic S-pipe is with the resonator. (Going from the Lower Intake Manifold to the MAF), then you'll need an MAF adapter, I made mine out of Mobile home PVC pipe and drilled through it where the bolts would mount, then just used nuts on the other side. After that, the 70 degree pipe will connect to the MAF adapter plate you made and go down beside the battery and below the fuse box mounted near the drivers side headlight, you may need to take it out to get the pipe below it.
Now, here is where the cutting begins, you'll need a handheld pair of metal snips or something strong enough to cut through sheet metal. There is a hole below/ beside the drivers side headlight that the 90 degree bend pipe will need to go into, just keep trimming until you can fit it in there and it goes inside the fender area (under the headlight)
Once you've dry fit everything and it all seems ok, I'd suggest taking the 90 degree bend pipe off, putting the air filter on one end, then feeding the whole thing up from underneath, and through the headlight hole where someone can grab it from above and stick it in the cuplink connecting the long pipe with the 70 degree bend on the other end.
Also, take note the air filter it comes with is **** and I reccomend getting a K&N quickly after, size is 2.75" but 3" will work if you have some nice cuplinks.
Thank you so much for this explanation it really helped out. i think i will be able to do this with no problems. But if anyone out there has a photo of what the finished product looks like i would love to see it. So that i have a visual guide as well. Thank you Pearl93VE for that great walk through
05-27-2008, 10:11 AM
#4
I had some from when we did it on my cousins' GXE... (my old car), but I can't find the pics... Maybe he'll snap some in a few.
Here is all I have for right now...
http://youtube.com/watch?v=VnsFR23I-kc
Here is all I have for right now...
http://youtube.com/watch?v=VnsFR23I-kc
05-28-2008, 12:58 AM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Cape Town, South Africa
Posts: 76
Look in this thread http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....&highlight=cai
There is pics that might help
There is pics that might help
05-30-2008, 05:10 PM
#9
It seems like that intake is all backwards. The little vacuum tube posts on the intake should go near the lower plenum, and the ribbed joint should also. Will it not fit up that way??
05-30-2008, 05:15 PM
#10
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Miami, FL. / Indianapolis, IN.
Posts: 2,614
for a moment there i thought that was my car. same color and same battery. except i have not CAI but i do have Aaron's intake spacers and he doesn't have it. but nice looking intake.
05-30-2008, 06:12 PM
#11
flip the s pipe, put the black ribbed part back at the proper location (meaning blue goes to other side of maf adapter) and cap that open vac port!
05-30-2008, 10:40 PM
#12
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
U must live in Alaska ? to use electrically heated EHAI-intake... or why intake air is sucked from the white hot wire resistor box [lamp]. Just kidding - looks good.
Yes, Cape / Trax r right, the flex rubber should insulate MAF from vibrations. I guess no big difference in elasticity
... I have now true flex tube keepin MAF alive.
Yes, Cape / Trax r right, the flex rubber should insulate MAF from vibrations. I guess no big difference in elasticity
... I have now true flex tube keepin MAF alive.
05-30-2008, 10:57 PM
#13
U must live in Alaska ? to use electrically heated EHAI-intake... or why intake air is sucked from the white hot wire resistor box [lamp]. Just kidding - looks good.
Yes, Cape / Trax r right, the flex rubber should insulate MAF from vibrations. I guess no big difference in elasticity ... I have now true flex tube keepin MAF alive.
Yes, Cape / Trax r right, the flex rubber should insulate MAF from vibrations. I guess no big difference in elasticity
... I have now true flex tube keepin MAF alive.
05-31-2008, 04:42 AM
#14
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Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: EU Scandinavia
Posts: 4,323
I was just boasting as just recently I swapped it with other mods along with a super flex tube... the stock flex is relatively good in VG b/c mechanically the MAF is located on a sweet point near optimal engine rotation axis with its 'cam' shape tubing. Kinda proof: VGE MAF's dont die as others do.
05-31-2008, 08:43 AM
#15
You probably could get the S-pipe to fit the other way, but if you look in the picture the lower curve is a more sloping long curve, and the top one is a bit tighter. It was giving problems the other way with fitment. I told him that he should get one long vacuum line to replace the blue/black combo but I guess he hasn't gotten around to doing it yet. I just remembered this thread when he was over and decided to go snap a few of how he had it.
We were busy doing this:
Drum to Disc-- Works so much better now...
We were busy doing this:
Drum to Disc-- Works so much better now...
05-31-2008, 04:25 PM
#16
Great Setup, Pearl. But where and how does the inlet end of your CAI pipe terminate? Can't tell from the pictures. Maybe mounted to a flange on the Heatlight assembly? Love to see a lighted shot there; what I'm looking for is hidden in the shadows.
05-31-2008, 06:40 PM
#17
There is a 90 degree pipe that goes down below the headlight where the air filter is connected.
06-05-2009, 08:20 PM
#19
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 513
Sup guys this seems to be a good spot to ask this question I just bought the Air Fliter/ cold air intake tip whatever its called from pepboys and i put it on the end of tha factory plastic pipe right where the fliter box was but now my temp goes sky high why is this and it sound pretty dang loud...Why is the temp going up and could it be because of the intake sensor?
06-06-2009, 06:13 AM
#20
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Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
Sup guys this seems to be a good spot to ask this question I just bought the Air Fliter/ cold air intake tip whatever its called from pepboys and i put it on the end of tha factory plastic pipe right where the fliter box was but now my temp goes sky high why is this and it sound pretty dang loud...Why is the temp going up and could it be because of the intake sensor?
06-06-2009, 09:44 AM
#21
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Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 513
06-06-2009, 12:47 PM
#22
06-06-2009, 03:29 PM
#23
06-06-2009, 11:36 PM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Surrey, B.C
Posts: 1,355
start the car and after 5 mins or so touch the upper radiator hose and feel it if its getting hotter and coolant is flowing throw.....if it doesnt even after 20 mins u got bad thermostat....
06-08-2009, 08:59 PM
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 513
Im not sure what the problem was but i took it off today and replaced it with the stock one but i did see that something was not connected and its connect to that thing that plugs into the fliter not sure what it is but ill try to get a pic of what im talking about.
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