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Hesitation in the power band while accelerating

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Old Aug 18, 2009 | 08:47 PM
  #81  
mofoaka's Avatar
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UPDATE

now that i've gotten a working 92 SE.. i have motivation to work on this one again because i realized how awesome this engine is. Today i went to check out my timing. apparently it was set at 20. so i set it back to 15. There is still a misfiring that makes it awfully hard to get the timing correct. The weirdest symptom i noticed on the car is this. when a car is cold started, it would rev up to around 1500 quickly to start the warm up etc, but when i start this car, it doesn't rev up quickly.. it'll slowly go from 0 to maybe 1200 rpms and will start misfiring. Again the misfiring gets worse when i rev the car to anywhere from 1500-2000.. and then goes away or drowns out... What would be the cause of this slow revving start? i will be swapping coils and anything easy over to eliminate possible issues.
Old Aug 18, 2009 | 09:58 PM
  #82  
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From: Houston, TX
Originally Posted by mofoaka
now that i've gotten a working 92 SE.. i have motivation to work on this one again because i realized how awesome this engine is. Today i went to check out my timing. apparently it was set at 20. so i set it back to 15. There is still a misfiring that makes it awfully hard to get the timing correct. The weirdest symptom i noticed on the car is this. when a car is cold started, it would rev up to around 1500 quickly to start the warm up etc, but when i start this car, it doesn't rev up quickly.. it'll slowly go from 0 to maybe 1200 rpms and will start misfiring. Again the misfiring gets worse when i rev the car to anywhere from 1500-2000.. and then goes away or drowns out... What would be the cause of this slow revving start? i will be swapping coils and anything easy over to eliminate possible issues.
Whats the last time you've done a compression test on that engine? I got this a while ago, its a good investment:
http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_00947089000P

I think O'Reilly rents compression testers, theres one in rice village.
Old Apr 1, 2010 | 10:39 PM
  #83  
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maxima problem

i was hoping to see your results from installing the ground kit. i had a similar problem on an Isuzu I-mark...wound up driving 5 of my cities top mechanics crazy. One guy almost killed himself because this car was the only car in his 25yrs turning wrenches he couldn't fix or even diagnose the problem. Towed the car back home and one day decided to raise the hood and take a look...my dad came out look under the hood and rested his hand on something that made everything work perfect. A GROUND WIRE was the culprit. Now i have a 4th gen max and its doing what yours is. GROUND WIRE. Be sure not to over look any of them. sunroof shouldn't be overlooked either. good luck
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 12:02 AM
  #84  
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From: Temple / Austin / Houston - Texas
Originally Posted by drbizerk
i was hoping to see your results from installing the ground kit. i had a similar problem on an Isuzu I-mark...wound up driving 5 of my cities top mechanics crazy. One guy almost killed himself because this car was the only car in his 25yrs turning wrenches he couldn't fix or even diagnose the problem. Towed the car back home and one day decided to raise the hood and take a look...my dad came out look under the hood and rested his hand on something that made everything work perfect. A GROUND WIRE was the culprit. Now i have a 4th gen max and its doing what yours is. GROUND WIRE. Be sure not to over look any of them. sunroof shouldn't be overlooked either. good luck
We updated this thread with another one. We figured it out to be the TPS sensor and incorrectly installed coil packs. I never got around to doing a grounding kit but will after I get the over heating under control
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 12:38 AM
  #85  
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From: Vancouver, BC
Originally Posted by NISMOALT
problem solved today.

just wanted to say i had the wierd bucking at 1000-2000 (1500 to be excact) aswell. i just came back from doing a tuneup....oil filter/fuel filter/spark plugs/coils/re-oiled it up and the mechanic told me my pcv valve hose had a crack in it... i was hanging with him and he just cutt some new hose and made a new pcv hose as well as replaced my pcv and bam the sputter/bucking/sticking or what ever you want to call it, is gone!!!
Had a similar problem. Not sure if yours is a VE, but on the VE, there are two PCV hoses, one directly attached to the PCV valve, and the other on the upper rear of the intake manifold, the two connected by a metal pipe. I had a problem where once the engine warmed up, it would lose substantial power (according to the butt dyno). I chased the problem for over a year, from everything from coils, to injectors, to wiring etc, all with no luck.

After replacing the rear VTC, and having the IM off, I noticed the upper PCV hose had a one inch long crack in it. The hose was age-hardened also. Never would have noticed if I didn't have the manifold off. What I suspect was happening was that when the engine warmed up, the hose would expand from the heat enough to create a vacuum leak. Since the PCV hose is a relatively large diameter vacuum hose, it created a substantial intake leak.

I replaced that hose, and the engine now runs better than ever!
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 04:04 AM
  #86  
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Its never good to solder the injector harness always use brass crimpers and heat shrink
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 09:29 AM
  #87  
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From: Temple / Austin / Houston - Texas
Originally Posted by kenny808
Its never good to solder the injector harness always use brass crimpers and heat shrink
We replaced it with an intact harness from the junkyard.
Old Apr 2, 2010 | 10:22 AM
  #88  
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LvR
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Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Pretoria - South Africa
Originally Posted by kenny808
Its never good to solder the injector harness always use brass crimpers and heat shrink
I think you meant exactly the opposite ................. ever seen crimped joints that got attacked by corrosion while hidden inside a sleeve cause you endless hassles?
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