hi guys


i have been having this problem since a month now....wen my VE crosses 4000rpm it starts to hesitate like it is jus going to shut off but it doesn't....and if i stay under 4000rpm u cant even tell that there is something wrong with da car....it only comes wen u depress the race pedal all the way down and rpm crosses 4000......and while da engine is running in park i hear this pop corn noises from the exuasht....as fsm states BACKFIRE THROUGH THE EXHAUST....it only says that problem could be cuz of CTS sensor ciruit .....but i jus changed da new sensor and i have changed my MAF tooo.....wat it could be

 

I say coils

 

i have this too when the car in P and i rev it, but when i travel i dont have this at all

 

u think so? ok ima check coils tonite...

 

o2 sensor?
TPS?
bad wiring?
timing is off?

 

ECU isnt showing any codes at all....( still pending to chek coils tho )

 

It starts to act like that when a coil begins to go bad, but before it completely fails.

 

how would u test coils if they Okay or if they r sick?

 

Temporarily swap coils with a healthy engine, or just ignore it until it becomes bad enough to tell which cylinder it is.

 

I say check your cat after you find the source of your after fire (rich or retarded timing) or igniting at the cat!

 

i don have a cat....straight pipe.. lol

 

Pull out the three front coils, look for cracks on the sides of them.

 

i pulled all my coils and one of i think its hmm 6th cylinder.....its coil is brownish inside instead of blak.....i looked inside all coils and some of them have this dirt inside them where that spring is which connects spark plug....should i clean that? and wat should i clean with?......

 

The brownish coil might be your problem, not sure though, bad front coils are usually cracked.

A can of electrical parts cleaner spray should clean them out nicely.

 

today i cheked my ECU and first it showed code 13 then again i cheked it was showing 55 normal.....i donoo wat da hek is up wit my ECU lol

 

Probably nothing, it noticed the problem and stored the code. 13 is CTS code, I got it when I disconnected CTS to measure voltages for you . Check you CTS connector - is it clean and tight?

 

To the OP: You're sure you swapped out the Engine Coolant Temperature SENSOR and not the Engine Coolant Temperature SENDER right? They're both right next to each other on the VE; though they have obvious differences and uses, many auto parts stores will give you the wrong one if you don't specify.

I had a similar problem with my VE that I just could not figure out, it turned out to be the ECTS. (Sensor, not sender, apparently) Mine was stuck closed so it was accountable for my poor start's, crap idle and sometimes stalling (if engine was cold) poor acceleration up to 3k RPMS, and trouble maintaining speed at a constant RPM. (usually final gear; 3krpms or below) My car was also running very rich. I imagine if your sensor is malfunctioning and is stuck open, you may have adverse affects.

Sometimes this part can be bad, even if it is new. I would take the time to Ohm it out with a multimeter and double check.

Here are some specs:

Engine Cold : 2.1kohm - 2.9kohm
Engine Warm : 0.68kohm - 1.0kohm
Engine Hot (Operating Temp) - 0.236kohm - 0.260kohm

I normally wouldn't push this as much, but since you mentioned a code 13, It couldn't hurt to double check.

 

The connectors won't fit unless he is very stong . It's just a thermistor - resistor which resistance decreases with temperature as you nicely shown.

 

i checked my cts sensor voltage and continuity as FSM says....i have continuity and i have 4.84 volts but FSM says it suppose to be 5.0 V....is that could be the problem or doesnt really make any difference with few volts low as mine....?

 

Hmm, what page does the FSM say to check voltage? If you are finding continuity, you must be using ohms? What ohm reading does it give you at your given temperature?

edit: Upon looking at the FSM, are you sure the FSM didn't state to check voltage for the CPS? It is the only thing in the area of the FSM that I can see that could be misinterpreted.

 

Could you also check CTS resistance as per post #17? If you measured 4.84 V on CTS connector when it was disconnected it is fine IMHO. Mine has 4.8V. Is you battery OK, BTW? I mean, it starts the car fine and it doesn't lose charge overnight.

You used to have your fans constantly running recently. What did you eventually do to fix that?

 

oh my fans? dat was on my 91 VG....there r no volts AT ALL in CTS harness so sensor isnt the problem....i still gotta figure it out that wats the problem...there no problem with fans.....so i exactly know where the problem is now...harness , wire or ECU...

edit :and i will chek da resistance in cts tomorrow.

 

today i cleaned my CTS connector and MAF connector and couple of other connectors with electrical cleaner....and i was SHOCKED that my cars pick is suddenly increased and its not really backfiring that much.....it does at WOT sometimes but MUCH BETTER after cleaning connectors.....i m gonna clean my ECU and TCU pins as well....

 

I don't think English is Burhan92SEs first language. While the English he knows is mostly slang and poorly put together, he is learning. Give him a year or two and his spelling skills will be almost American.