going over old threads trying to find a good way to make a more powerful NA VG. came across this in 3rd gen mods-->3.4 Litre VG, pretty old thread sorry if this has been beat to death
I've tried searching and reading lots, but still not sure. does madmax mean putting VE rods, VG30DE wristpins and pistons in a VG30E or a VG33?
so far to make a strong NA VG i've come up with:
CAI
full exhaust
Cams
Gutting the intake plenum/pathfinder plenum swap+TB
EGR removal?
UDP

Any other simple and effective ways of eliminating the bottleneck intake the VG has?

 

But it has already (stock) CAI...

VGE was born with 250 naturally horses. To be doubled (?) by lashing... Nissan sales blueprint positioned GXE into 160hp spot; VGE engineers got humbled by a job to choke it. Succeed they did, kept their jobs...

Why VGE fell into such spot? They desperately tried but could get only 190 from the VE with all the myriad expensive widgets. And in samurai circles u cannot challenge the 'crown' -project chieftain.

Of course this was all a bad dream. Now go and release the horses.

 

The maxima vg had to be "choked down" so it could fit into the small maxima engine compartment. A large amount of n/a horsepower is in the heads(read VG30DE), unfortunately, the engine bay size restrictions only allow only for what we have.

IMO, to only way to get our vg engines to put down anywhere close to 250 is with a turbo.

 

Stock VG30E intake is terriblese from any aspect ... 3500lb A/T 6.5s to 0-100kmh cant come true with 200 horses. Similar size 3L A/T Volvo 80 T6 from 90's needs 270hp for that. But then, what do I know - but just enjoy.

 

alright, thanks fo rthe replies, Wiking, i already read through your cardomain page and that's where I started reading about the EGR. Have you removed the EGR from your 3rd gen? if so do you need any special plates/hoses to block it all off when it's out? And i'm still looking into the VE piston/wristpin thing to try and bump up compression. Before I knew anything about 3rd gens i ripped out the stock box b/c i could see it was useless, and have a 3" polished HAI(gonna get more tubing and cut the fenderwell for CAI soon). I'm going to advance the timing pretty son as well. I'm not trying to make a race car, it's a sedan, I just want to do some realistic and reliable mods to push out a few more ponies.

 

My max EGR still sits there, but next I'll unplug the solenoid valve ctrl wire. This essentially shuts EGR out. The reason why I'll do it, was the recent sooty view into another bluemax-91, 90k, intake where we swapped one injector (check the pics).
That bluemax got a clean (!) upper intake from my sparemax, 250kmiles (we cannibalized it like they do to turbos, middle wall out).

The sparemax -92 has no EGR at all. Even the intake had no connection for EGR... There was only a special plug in the exhaust.

Ign: Smbdy here said he is driving with 25 degrees advance. I wouldnt suggest anybody to go there, but if u know whatttodo, then...

 

Alright well I guess I'll see if i can take out/eliminate the EGR when I install my PX3 intake manifold gaskets, might as well try and do it all at once. I don't have to worry about the emissions stuff up here in BC. As for the timing I was thinking 10-15 degrees haha 25 is pretty extreme. We'll see how much i get done, it sowed already today.

 

FSM says that 15 degrees +/- 2degrees. My setting is 17. My VG now wants 98 octane after the last intake mods increased air volume 'somewhat' higher... started pinging. I am not yet ready to show pics.

One way to affect cyl fillup volume is extending intake. For my 2WD 1.6D -82 vanagon I installed 11 feet intake, 75mm PVC pipe as intake. It has a real ram effect: at lower rpm's, air is pushing OUT from a small hole near the engine intake box... gives gigantic torque. In the VW its easy job using its 4WD underbelly channels from its rear engine to front. If u find a way for such pipe in max, tell how it goes ... For 3L engine the pipe should be 100mm dia.

Here are some Aussie intake ideas to keep sleep out
http://autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0637.

 

Eliminating EGR shouldn't be too difficult. You will first need to find a solid metal plate to adapt into a cover for replacing the valve. I suggest finding a bolt or simply welding up the exhuast port for the EGR.

I welded up my exhuast port. For the egr valve, I used an extra funky shaped metal plate that caps the end of the cams to cover the opening where the egr valve bolts to the intake. I had to cut it down and drill one hole, then just used some black silicone to seal and used 10mm bolts (shorter versions of what hold the egr) to secure the plate. The end.

BTW, anyone know how much timing advance occurs with the distributor turned fully clockwise? (Still need a tune!)

 

I guess it turns until piston rod bends and/or bearings ring, pistons melt

 

yea egr will be easy, and for timing, yea all the way definitely can't be healthy. anything more than 20* is too much IMO

 

Didn't mean to hack...really a rhetorical question meant for humor given the topics noted in the thread. BTW, all the way clockwise...she purrrrs like a kitten! I know some things are off, but right now.....that's how she likes it! And absolutely NOT something anyone should do or try without being very familiar with thier car, inside and out. NO ONE reading this should assume my timing is a "let's see what this will do" setting. This is where my car must be set to run until I get tuned properly.

 

KS or ECU has blown.

 

Buy some cams and do so head work and clean up the intake track and workon the the exhaust you really wake it up