1990 Maxima running poorly.
#81
I just went out and tried that, no go.. The wiring seems pretty well intact in the car for the age. Nothing I've found has been brittle or cracked.
Also went through ALL of the signal checks, everything is good on that end.
Also the MAF passes the manual tests.. Only checks voltage in and out tho...
Also went through ALL of the signal checks, everything is good on that end.
Also the MAF passes the manual tests.. Only checks voltage in and out tho...
#82
You think I'm safe buying a used part off ebay? There are several on there now. I'm not against buying a new one, but I'd rather make sure that the problem before I drop $200 on one.
Is there a mechanical/electrical way to test the MAF itself?
Is there a mechanical/electrical way to test the MAF itself?
#83
Call local JY...
I have been tuning my MAF and found it to be very asthmatic device. It can detect your finger approaching (=turbulence) 'one foot distance'.
Therefore test/try running the engine without filter; if I remember right, theres a service bulletin on wrong/dirty filter.
#84
You just did that: dropit off from the game...
Call local JY...
I have been tuning my MAF and found it to be very asthmatic device. It can detect your finger approaching (=turbulence) 'one foot distance'.
Therefore test/try running the engine without filter; if I remember right, theres a service bulletin on wrong/dirty filter.
Call local JY...
I have been tuning my MAF and found it to be very asthmatic device. It can detect your finger approaching (=turbulence) 'one foot distance'.
Therefore test/try running the engine without filter; if I remember right, theres a service bulletin on wrong/dirty filter.
I went back out and tried it off the filter, no difference. While it was running, I poked my fingers around in there and noticed that if I covered 1/3 to 1/2 of the opening, it got better.
So the duck tape came out....
Drives great like this, around the block anyway. I don't know how this would be on the highway, or what my mileage would be.
I'm guessing this could mean I have a large vacuum leak...???
I've sprayed around the whole engine with brake-clean and there are no rpm increases...
#85
No local junkyards sadly.. The drive would be more than shipping one.
I went back out and tried it off the filter, no difference. While it was running, I poked my fingers around in there and noticed that if I covered 1/3 to 1/2 of the opening, it got better.
So the duck tape came out....
Drives great like this, around the block anyway. I don't know how this would be on the highway, or what my mileage would be.
I'm guessing this could mean I have a large vacuum leak...???
I've sprayed around the whole engine with brake-clean and there are no rpm increases...
I went back out and tried it off the filter, no difference. While it was running, I poked my fingers around in there and noticed that if I covered 1/3 to 1/2 of the opening, it got better.
So the duck tape came out....
Drives great like this, around the block anyway. I don't know how this would be on the highway, or what my mileage would be.
I'm guessing this could mean I have a large vacuum leak...???
I've sprayed around the whole engine with brake-clean and there are no rpm increases...
I guess no vac leak: either the heating resistor or sensor element has deteriorated or got covered by soot. Take the meshes out, use cleaner while lightly brushing. Then place a plastic/metal plate longitudinally inside the MAF 'tube', halving the diameter like Ø ... this tames turbulences while not affecting flow.
Duct taping just chokes pwr, wont affect mpg: ECU always compensates injection based on airflow.
The sensor elements (in the airflow):
see http://www.cardomain.com/ride/748507/9
Last edited by Wiking; 11-28-2008 at 11:40 AM.
#87
Theres also compensating & amp electronics inside the 'box' ... any of em may be semi dead. Drive with the duct tape until u get better.
#88
I found one on ebay for $26 shipped... I'll try that and go from there.
Placing a piece of metal in the opening did nothing either.. Made more airfoil noise, that's it.
I noticed the sensor is not directly behind the heater, as it looks like it should be in order to "feel" the heated air. Maybe it already was bashed and the tape is altering the flow in the right direction. If I tape the other side of the opening (left versun right) it dies right away.
Thanks for all your help and information. Your site should be required reading..
#89
If MAF sensitivity goes down, adding 'more' airflow (like u did with choking) around the sensor, compensates ... The word [around] here is very vague due to somewhat chaotic airflow. I've been rippin my hairs off on this issue, got some results. But like R Kipling says; "its another story"...
I do hope that someone someday opens the MAF 'box', digs out all the component types and distributes the knowledge. Should be easy solder/repair work.
#91
#92
Just hit a junkyard and find a new MAF... Like I said, mine ran $26, and the car is still running great. I've given it to my girlfriends daughter, so don't do much with it at this point.
And what is "duck tape"?? Hahaha, c'mon Hectic... That's the **** you use when you duck breaks and you need put him back together...
You've never heard of duck weld have you, duh...
#95
#96
Got me another MAF and still no good. I'm lost now. I guess I should try to change my o2 sensor now. Any suggestions? Do I need to reset my ECU or anything now that the new sensor is in?
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Finkle
4th Generation Maxima (1995-1999)
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09-27-2015 09:53 PM