I just got off the phone with my parts guy at the dealer. They are two different parts. The DOHC engine uses two of the same sized half moons. The SOHC engine uses one that is the same size as the DOHC and one that is smaller. You would think a company as big as Beck Arnley would know that they are not the same. Oh well. They only had one half moon in stock so I am going to go get that on my lunch break and use it in conjunction with the one half moon from the Beck Arnley kit that fits

 

Yep, i just checked courtesy's website(I should have done that last night )

VG front seal= 11121-J30001 Rear= 11121-J30002

VE front+rear= 11121-J30002

 

Well I know advanced and napa both only have one gasket kit listed for the VE and VG...so if anyone is reading this in the future I would not recomend buying the oil pan gasket from either of those places unless you need it for a VG engine.

 

those are not actual part #s. 11121 means it's a seal, and the rest says it's for a 3rd gen (J30) with there there being 2 options 1 or 2.
11121-14y10 is the actual OE #

 

Not sheit brian, most of us know courtesy's part #'s are not oem #'s

i just posted them for part# difference recognition...

 

I redid the oip pan seal last night, put the exahust manifolds back on with new gaskets and hardware, did the coolant bypass on the TB, and I started replacing vacuum lines. I think I am about ready to take it off the stand so I can put the clutch/flywheel on. I have a few vac lines that are not hooked up but I think I will hold off on asking about those until the engine is in the engine bay because I know a few of the hook to the vac canster. Hopefully I have a chance to work on it this weekend.

 

My OEM Nissan oil pan gasket came in a tube... :shrug:

 

I have not had any more time to work on the swap since last time I posted but I do have another question. Once the NWP spacers are installed is there anything that holds the upper manifold up in the rear?

 

you could redrill the bolt holes in the brackets if you want to.

Otherwise, don't lean on the manifold and you should be okay.

 

so I took the engine off of the stand in order to put the clutch on...well I need to put a pilot bearing in first since this engine was an auto. Well there is some sort of donut thing over the end of the crank where pilot bearing goes. How do you get this freakin thing out? It does not seem as if there is enough of an edge to use a puller. Help me out, I wanted to get this thing back int he engine bay tonight!

 

technically you don't have to remove it and technically you don't need the m/t pilot bushing. it just means more work for you without it.

the workaround is as follows:

• put the flywheel on and go ahead and torque that
• put the clutch and pp on and get the bolts finger tight... but the clutch disc needs to be able to slide around a little bit
• now put the trans onto the engine through the clutch splines, and bolt it on with 1 or 2 bolts, enough to make sure it's aligned right to the block
• now take a 12mm wrench through the starter hole, and tighten the bolts most of the way, in as much of a star pattern as you can while turning the engine to access different bolts
• once all the bolts are tight enough to keep the clutch disc from sliding around anymore, go ahead and pull the tranny back off.
• now torque the clutch bolts to spec and continue on with whatever you were doing

i've done it twice on my car, and it worked just fine.

 

I've already cut this one several times with a dremel...it needs to come out. So I will be removing it. I guess I will get a pilot bearing puller tomorrow...I'm just not sure there is enough of an edge to pull it. But I am giving up on it for tonight. I would love some advice on how to actually get it out rather than work around it. Thanks.

 

i tried a pilot bearing puller on it... was a total failure. so unless you have dremelled through the thing enough to make it potentially come loose... then there's nothing wrong with working around it... your car's performance will not suffer in any way (except that it's maybe 1oz of extra rotating mass... not a big deal). i know you want everything on this engine installation to be 'perfect' but in this case, it's not a big deal. the instant you step on the clutch pedal, your clutch is perfectly aligned all by itself. the bushing's ONLY purpose is for clutch alignment, a task which takes maybe 15 minutes if you don't have a proper bushing and alignment tool handy. i drove probably 10k miles with the auto bushing still in place.. and several other 5spd swappers have probably done the same.

 

I hear what you are saying, but I am going to take it out. I just don't like doing all of this work then leaving an auto bushing in the end of the crank. I guess I will try to figure out some way to make a puller work.

 

like... what sort of dremel cuts did you make into it? enough to weaken it so it can collapse a little bit and come out easier? of course be careful not to gouge the end of the crank ifself...

 

yeah that's what I did but I still could not get it out. I knicked the crank a few times so I just decided to try a pilot bearing puller. I picked one up today and hope to get a chance to try it tonight.

 

have you been soaking it with penetrating oil? that should help things along too. then maybe 2 criss-crossed flat-head screwdrivers to pull it out straight? it's a thought.

 

So I got the auto bearing out with the pilot bearing puller. I shoved a screw driver between the puller jaws so that they would not be able to move inward and must stay pushed against the edges of the pilot bearing (if you have ever used this tool you know what I am talking about). I tried to take a picture but when I went to get my camera the bearing fell out oh well.

Now my question for the night is, is there something wrong with my pressure plate? It's a nissan part and its the same part number as the last pressure plate that I took out of the car...also a nissan part. But the prongs are flat. Was there some sort of revision done to this? I thought that they are supposed to angle out toward the throw out bearing. Take a look at these pictures. The one that I took out of the car angled out toward the Throw out bearing.




and one of the engine back on the motor mounts in the engine bay.

 

nice work. coming along good.

 

damn you and your ingeunity! i never thought to jam the prongs.... you 1. me 0.

as for the spring fingers, i think that's fine. as the clutch wears the fingers will point more toward the TOB. as long as they have any outward angle at all (even a fraction of a degree), you're fine. i noticed the same thing when i put my new clutch on. note when the PP was off, they were angled... but the thickness of the the cluch disc pushed the contact sufrace of the PP outward which pulls the teeth inward.

 

I actually figured that trick out when I was putting a 3.4 camaro engine into my XJ. I tried using that tool for several hours and it would not work, then I finally used a screw driver for leverage pushing the prongs outward and it came right out. I know that's not the way the tool was meant to be used but it works well that way.

Okay I will leave the pressure plate then, it just seemed odd to me. I defiently thing it got flatter as I tightened the bolts holding the PP to the flywheel.

Also just for peice of mind....the side of the clutch disk that has the raised center part...that goes towards the PP correct? I am sure this how it goes I just want someone else to sign off on it before I put the tranny back in.

 

As a newbie to this car. I dropped the motor and tranny and subframe right out the bottom. The crossmember sits nicely on the ground keeping the motor and oil pan lifted.

I used my engine lift and a tow strap to lift the car up over the motor, and rolled the car back, with the lift going with it. It was very easy. I did this with no help.

I reinstalled it the same. From getting the motor out of my truck, installed in the car and wiring and drivetrain in place took 3 hours. I can have it all out in less than 2.

First FWD I've done but it looked like coming out the top would have been much more work.

 

There is a TSB that states the bushing needs to be removed AND the flywheel has to be clocked/times for maximum power. Dont recall the number and I dont have access to AllData anymore. Popular consenus is removal is unnecessary and many have followed that route without any problems.

There is a washer/plate that bolts over the flywheel, be sure to include it. It's NOT in the clutch or MT section of the FSM, it can be found in the mechanical section with diagrams of the engine block

 

Impressive timing!

 

I had the flywheel turned, so it has a nice friction surface again.

As for the washer/plate/spacer that you are talking about that bolts over the flywheel, I think you are mistaken. I am pretty sure thay is on for the auto flex plate. I took that off of the auto flex plate but there was not one on the manual flywheel.

Does anyone have a picture of the parts for this so I can varify I do not need to spacer/plate thing for a manual flywheel?

 

VE auto bushing. I just put one leg of a puller in there and pried it out. Might have taken 10 seconds. It was in my JDM engine swap thread I did for Chris. Good luck with the rest of the swap.

Annother thing. Make sure you use the manual flywheel bolts and not the ones for the auto flex plate. Too short.

 

great job so far man. It seems to be coming along very smoothly. Can't wait to hear about the 1st flick of the key

 

I used the manual bolts. What about the question I asked at the end of my last post about that round spacer thing?

 

i only found that washer-plate thing on my automatic but it was not present on my parts car, my friend's car, or maximafan4140's car...

 

I'm going out to work on it now, and I am going to put the tranny back in with out that plate on the flywheel. i am almost postivive that is only for the auto flex plate and not the flywheel....I was just asking to double check really. Hopefully i will have a good update in a little bit.

 

I cleaned out the bell housing a little one the tranny, and I replaced the axle seals and the TOB. I tried to get it in the car but I could not work the jack and get it in place, I could not get it to balance well enough on the jack. No one has helped me to this point but I think I need to get someone to operate the jack so I can get the tranny lined up...Oh well, I will have to wait another day or two.





I have some sort of cover that goes behind the flywheel, and then I have another it looks like inspection cover that bolts on at the bottom of that cover. Do the manual and auto have different covers/ inspection covers? The inspection plate on my JDM engine (automatic) does not look like the one that is on the engine that came out of the car. Any pics on how these should look? Thanks. Input/comments/questions, are welcome.

 

manual should have 2 covers. the whole one goes on before the flywheel on, and the half-size one goes between the lower holes and whole plate. just tape the half one in place or ziptie it to the other plate through the holes so it doesn't fall down, that way you can put the tranny up by yourself. it's a pain but CAN be done. slide it in so that it locks onto those dowel pins and have a bolt handy to thread into the top of the tranny.

 

FSM---EM80---#17 (Driver Plate reinforcement)

It exists because I have it on my car (93SE). Never saw any on my parts car which is a 92SE.

I'll have the TSB printed and will try to locate it this weekend if time permits. It's on AllData if anyone has access to it.

 

Place a donut on the jack and then put the tranny and see if this helps. It worked for me the first time.

Be careful not to lock your tranny up otherwise you wont be able to shift into gears

 

I looked at what you are talking about, I still think it is just for an automatic because if you look at how they identify the flywheel, they say flywheel or drive plate. So basically, drive plate=flex plate. And that spacer is listed as the drive plate/flex plate reinforcement. So I am still thinking a manual flywheel does not require this part.

 

is the donut in case you get hungry?

 

to install tranny yourself with a floor jack......

lay on right shoulder w/ head under car (feet sticking out next to jack handle), balancing tranny on jack with both arms.

use left leg to pump jack handle, balancing tranny on way up.

The tranny balances best if you put the small half-circle thingy on the bellhousing in the cradle of the jack. I have a feeling that's some sort of lift point for nissan factory assembly or something, cause it's the perfect balance point on the tranny.

 

heh..

I done my trans swap a few years back about the same way, lots of leg work.(wasn't as easy with a broken back att ). you still have to do some man handling/twisting/pushing on the trans to get it to line up, but you can most definitely swap the trans out with just a floor jack.

 

Maybe I would have better luck if I tried going in from the wheel well. Right now I am coming in from the front of the car so the tranny is sitting perpendicular to the jack. The picture that greeny shows is of the tranny sitting parallel with the jack. I'll try it later. It would be a lot easier if the starter was mounted to the top of the bell housing like on my fourth gens because that makes a perfect handle to pull the tranny up with.

 

I've always done it with the jack facing straight forward. maybe pull the tranny out from the side on the jack, but then I'd always turn it so the jack faces forward.

You'll want it aiming that way so you can be directly under/behind the business end of the tranny so you can shove the input shaft on when you get it jacked up there.