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VE30 engine swap

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Old Dec 24, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #161  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
I notice no power difference from either grade...
doesn't mean there isn't one.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:18 PM
  #162  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
doesn't mean there isn't one.
two way street mang, doesn't mean there is one either, i drive a VE every day, using different octane gas here and there from month to month, not to mention, i have had this freaking car for 9 damn years, i think i would notice a difference if there was one.

You know just as well as i do that higher octane fuel doesn't mean more power/hp, octane raises the flash/ignition point of gasoline to prevent detonation. If no detonation exists, then higher octane gasoline is a waste of money.

Last edited by Greeny; Dec 24, 2008 at 03:42 PM.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:31 PM
  #163  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
two way street mang, doesn't mean there is one either, i drive a VE every day, using different octane gas here and there from month to month, not to mention, i have had this freaking car for 9 damn years, i think i would notice a difference if there was one.

You know just as well as i do that higher octane fuel doesn't mean more power/hp, octane lowers the flash/ignition point of gasoline to prevent detonation. If no detonation exists, then higher octane gasoline is a waste of money.
so then how is it that higher octane gas is suppose to give you better gas mileage if your car reccomends that u use it
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:37 PM
  #164  
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Originally Posted by sleepyvg30e
so then how is it that higher octane gas is suppose to give you better gas mileage if your car reccomends that u use it
Higher octane is only to prevent detonation, if your car is pre-igniting fuel(knock/ping/detonation, google it if you don't know what this is), you will loose power= you will loose fuel mileage.

If their is no detonation present, you will not loose power from using 87 octane fuel/vs 93 octane.

BTW, i edited my post to fix my fopoah higher octane raises not lowers the flash point of gasoline.

Last edited by Greeny; Dec 24, 2008 at 03:44 PM.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 03:51 PM
  #165  
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if a motor was designed with premium in mind (like the VE) there is a power loss since the ignition timing is compensating for the difference in octane. 99% of the time you do not hear detonation, that is why the knock sensor is there. it picks up the harmonics of detonation. harmonics which are in audible to the human ear. by the time you hear detonation there has been damage done.

if you look at newer cars you will see they rate some of them on premium AND regular gas, with 2 different HP ratings.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 04:43 PM
  #166  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
if a motor was designed with premium in mind (like the VE) there is a power loss since the ignition timing is compensating for the difference in octane. 99% of the time you do not hear detonation, that is why the knock sensor is there. it picks up the harmonics of detonation. harmonics which are in audible to the human ear. by the time you hear detonation there has been damage done.

if you look at newer cars you will see they rate some of them on premium AND regular gas, with 2 different HP ratings.
That's all good-n-fine, but i am only speaking from my seat of the pants feel of my car, a car which i know very well(were kinda attached at the hip ), and my feeling is nill between 87/93 octane, i feel no difference at all in power.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:12 PM
  #167  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
That's all good-n-fine, but i am only speaking from my seat of the pants feel of my car, a car which i know very well(were kinda attached at the hip ), and my feeling is nill between 87/93 octane, i feel no difference at all in power.
mountain folk....

what's your timing set at anyhow? stock 15?
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 05:15 PM
  #168  
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Originally Posted by CapedCadaver
mountain folk....

what's your timing set at anyhow? stock 15?
yep, replaced the k/s in oct., and put it back to stock timing.
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 06:52 PM
  #169  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
That's all good-n-fine, but i am only speaking from my seat of the pants feel of my car, a car which i know very well(were kinda attached at the hip ), and my feeling is nill between 87/93 octane, i feel no difference at all in power.
ah, the ever accurate butt dyno
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 06:53 PM
  #170  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
ah, the ever accurate butt dyno
my butt is..

Old Dec 24, 2008 | 06:57 PM
  #171  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
my butt is..

:moon:
Old Dec 24, 2008 | 07:03 PM
  #172  
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 07:10 AM
  #173  
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so I guess I am sticking with the good stuff then
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 03:44 PM
  #174  
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Wow....okay. So I put the exhaust back on the car and tried to crank it. It barley cought, and the idle hunted up and down from about 400 rmp to 100 rmp and then it would die after trying to run for ~ 10 seconds. Also as soon as I try to crank the car the cooling fans stay on the entire time the engine is stumbling around. The engine is cold. What in the world would cause this? It was cold idling the other day with no exhaust around 1300 rpm. This is frustrating! Any help is appreicated.
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 04:25 PM
  #175  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
Wow....okay. So I put the exhaust back on the car and tried to crank it. It barley cought, and the idle hunted up and down from about 400 rmp to 100 rmp and then it would die after trying to run for ~ 10 seconds. Also as soon as I try to crank the car the cooling fans stay on the entire time the engine is stumbling around. The engine is cold. What in the world would cause this? It was cold idling the other day with no exhaust around 1300 rpm. This is frustrating! Any help is appreicated.
#1 cause= coolant temp sensor or a bad connection @ the cts

#2 maf sensor

Unplug/start car to check either sensor, but first wiggle the cts harness around while running to see if it's a bad connection, same for maf..
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 06:49 PM
  #176  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
#1 cause= coolant temp sensor or a bad connection @ the cts

#2 maf sensor

Unplug/start car to check either sensor, but first wiggle the cts harness around while running to see if it's a bad connection, same for maf..
would either of those cause the cooling fans to run constantly? My coolant temp sensor did have corrosion on the connection and the harness. How is the connection harness or the sensor different on the JDM engine, because they are both in good shape? Let me know. Thanks.
Old Jan 2, 2009 | 07:29 PM
  #177  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
would either of those cause the cooling fans to run constantly? My coolant temp sensor did have corrosion on the connection and the harness. How is the connection harness or the sensor different on the JDM engine, because they are both in good shape? Let me know. Thanks.
you are using the USDM sensor right? the CTS will cause the fans to run nonstop if unplugged (pretty sure) or bad (maybe... don't quote me on it tho)
Old Jan 3, 2009 | 06:31 PM
  #178  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
would either of those cause the cooling fans to run constantly? My coolant temp sensor did have corrosion on the connection and the harness. How is the connection harness or the sensor different on the JDM engine, because they are both in good shape? Let me know. Thanks.
the JDM sensor probably outputs differently.
just get the correct USDM sensor and clean your connector.
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:09 AM
  #179  
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I got another cts from advanced auto and I hope to have time to put it in tonight. What about the harness? Since my USDM one has corrosion I was thinking about using the one from the JDM set up (I am pretty sure that one is much cleaner). Could that cause a problem? I am prett sure its just a two wire connection with a simple harness.
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:38 AM
  #180  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
I got another cts from advanced auto and I hope to have time to put it in tonight. What about the harness? Since my USDM one has corrosion I was thinking about using the one from the JDM set up (I am pretty sure that one is much cleaner). Could that cause a problem? I am prett sure its just a two wire connection with a simple harness.
The corrosion can be removed with some sort of solvent(carb cleaner/electrical contact cleaner/etc.) and a wire brush like this.



Try this before resorting to cutting/splicing the harness.
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 06:38 PM
  #181  
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So I changed out the cts and I cleaned the connection and it fired right up. After it got up to operating temp it started a rythmic tic....is this the vtc clack? It does increase as engine speed increases. Other than that it has a very smooth idle.
Old Jan 5, 2009 | 07:20 PM
  #182  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
So I changed out the cts and I cleaned the connection and it fired right up. After it got up to operating temp it started a rythmic tic....is this the vtc clack? It does increase as engine speed increases. Other than that it has a very smooth idle.
It could be the vtc's, but it could just be where the engine sat for soo long in warehouse. You might want to put a oil treatment in to loosen up any gunk that may have settled. give it some time.
Old Jan 6, 2009 | 01:08 AM
  #183  
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VE this
VE that
VE hiss
VE clack

JK Greeno, first thing I saw was bickering about octane


That's a lot of work OP, good job

Last edited by Hectic; Jan 6, 2009 at 01:48 AM.
Old Jan 6, 2009 | 05:47 AM
  #184  
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Originally Posted by Greeny
It could be the vtc's, but it could just be where the engine sat for soo long in warehouse. You might want to put a oil treatment in to loosen up any gunk that may have settled. give it some time.
What sort of treatment could I try? I would like to go ahead and try it since after the second/third oil change I plan to run synthetic. I am already using everyone's favorite Toyota oil filter.
Old Jan 6, 2009 | 06:16 AM
  #185  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
What sort of treatment could I try? I would like to go ahead and try it since after the second/third oil change I plan to run synthetic. I am already using everyone's favorite Toyota oil filter.
Not sure on which brand treatment to use, search around in the fluids&lubricants section, or pm talkinghorse, he seems to know his sheit about oil/additives.

Personally, i've used marvel mystery oil a few times right before an oil change to help with sludge removal.
Old Jan 9, 2009 | 10:56 AM
  #186  
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Is there anything I should save off the block or heads from the engine I took out? I going to save the valve covers and all of the sensors...past that I was just planning on taking the rest to the junk yard.
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 05:57 AM
  #187  
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Well the car failed inspection today because I could not seal a leak I had at the unions on the catalytic converter, so I have ordered a direct fit high flow unit from warpspeed. Oh well, I knew it was leaking I just hoped they would pass it.

The car is running nice and smooth so far but it does not have the off idle tq/throttle respones like my fourth gens. I have not taken the car over 3.5k rmp because I am waiting until the clutch is broken in, but it is a very noticible difference. Do any of you guys have fourth gens and know what I am talking about?
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 08:40 AM
  #188  
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Originally Posted by cardana24
Well the car failed inspection today because I could not seal a leak I had at the unions on the catalytic converter, so I have ordered a direct fit high flow unit from warpspeed. Oh well, I knew it was leaking I just hoped they would pass it.

The car is running nice and smooth so far but it does not have the off idle tq/throttle respones like my fourth gens. I have not taken the car over 3.5k rmp because I am waiting until the clutch is broken in, but it is a very noticible difference. Do any of you guys have fourth gens and know what I am talking about?
did you try muffler cement? or copper silicone?
Old Jan 14, 2009 | 08:57 AM
  #189  
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Originally Posted by internetautomar
did you try muffler cement? or copper silicone?
not yet, I am just going to get a new converter and sell my old one as scrap/recycling. I have done this before and I really don't have to take a loss. Plus the shop I go to is about 40 minutes away, and I have to get there early in the morning, so I don't want to try and patch it just for them to say it will not pass. Once you get a rejection sticker you have to go back to the same shop that rejected it.
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