Maybe I should try to work on balancing it better tonight. It still would be easier if I could get someone to operate the jack.

 

how about removing the mount from the radiator side of the tranny and bolting your hoist chain into 2 spots on that side of the tranny then loop it through the "handle" of the rear mount and just lift the tranny with your hoist?

 

Well I tried it again by myself tonight and I got it in. It helped a lot by using a different jack. I used my advanced auto garage jack which has a more substantial lift cup (for a lack of better word) than my craftsman racing jack that I was using before. It took two tries but I got it in. After i got the tranny bolted up I bolted in the two tranny mounts. While I was under the car and doing the tranny stuff I hook the shift rod and stabalizer bar back up. Then I put the acessories back in the car...still have not done belts though. I hooked most of the wiring harness back up as well. I made a lot of progress tonight...my goal is to try to start it by Christmas...we will see. I do have one question, then just two other pics of the progress. I need to know what this goes to. It's the nipple on the back of the solenoid with the green plug. The solenoid on top of it controls the power valve. but I am not sure what this goes to and where a vac line should be run. Let me know if anyone knows.


few pics

 

the plastic tank on the strut tower. that's what 'stores' the vacuum pull for the power valve. the non-valved hose from the plastic tank goes into the solenoid, and the valved hose goes to a manifold vac source somewhere. where on the VE... i dunno. hell i don't even know off the top of my head where it goes on MY car.

 

one solenoid valve goes to the EGR, the other goes to the power valve.

exactly which one goes where is pictured in the FSM and using the diagram sticker under the hood. It took bth of them on my car to get it all right.

 

i'm fortunate to be able to go over to my neighbor's house (their daughter has an 89gxe) if i ever need referene for vacuum items. greeny PROBABLY has pics of this somewhere though. i think i ought to snap pics and make a vacuum reference guide for myself sometime just in case i ever need it. tho wiking might already have one for the VG.... wiking needs to get a VE and start making a cardomain for it too, that would rock.

 

VE Vacuum line thread...

--> http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...id-vacuum.html

 

so it goes to the vac canister? I already have one line running to that. It's coming off a metal line close to the T/B then hooking to the check valve then from there going to the bottom of the vac canister. Is there another hook up on the vac canister that I am not aware of?

also, why does the auto upper plenum not have a power valve?

 

Yes. There should be two lines on the canister.

 

it doesn't need it. the A/T made it unneeded because of the torque converter. the m/t needs it though

 

I made a little bit of progress over the weekend. I put a CAI on the car...that always takes longer that it is supposed to...I'll post some pics later. Then last night I put the radiator and fans back in the car, but I still need two more clamps for the radiator hoses. I also put the drive belts on, one of the three belts had two different sizes listed at advanced...I am not sure why this was but I went with the smaller belt and it seems to fit well. I also put the battery tray back in. Hopefully I will have time to work on the car this evening when I get off of my evening job. The next step is to put the axles back in, then fill things up with fluid. I am going to pick up the hose clamps and some oil on my lunch break today. I have not looked at my owners manual but I am guessing the car uses 10w30? Also in the capacities of my Haynes Manual it says the engine takes 4 1/8 quarts with a filter change...is this accurate? I have Amsoil GL4 for the tranny. What is used for the power steering fluid? Is it Dextron like in my fourth gens? Also, I know coolant is a pain to fill in VG's, is it the same in VE's? Do I need to be on a steep incline when filling the coolant?

 

5w-30 oil

a little over 4 quarts is accurate.

Dextron for power steering fluid.

The ve requires no incline to bleed, just fill while running, take it for a drive.

 

VE vs VG I'd recommend 5w30close, 4th gens use Dexron like the 3rd gen doesit helps. the VE has a bleeder screw as do the later VGs they both need bleeding.

 

Blah, I've never had to 'incline" bleed my ve, both water pump and t-stat replacement was just re-fill-n-drive.

now the vg on the other hand........

 

I didn't incline bleed mine either, but it took 1/2 hour to bleed it "normally" so I'm sure an incline bleed would help since the heater core and radiator are in the same place in both of them.

 

The heater core is not where the 3rd gen air pockets are created, it's engine related, the ve head/intake design doesn't have the "air pocket clog points" that the vg engine head/intake design have. I have incline bleed my vg countless times, yet the damn temp needle still rises above the normal line during driving, but it has never had a "lack of heat issue" it's always been nice and warm from the getgo. I am starting to think the vg engine really needs a vacuum pulled on the cooling system for it to be thoroughly bleed correctly.

 

eh, I haven't had a VG max. I just know I had to bleed the VE for a long time when I added coolant because it was lacking heat. Nothing like standing in a parking lot in the cold with wind to do this. Thankfully I don't have that issue now as it's the coldest we've been here in almost a dozen years :shiver:

I always presumed the heater core was higher and the cause of the issue since that is usually the cause on my other vehicles.

 

Sounds good.

I picked up a few constant tq clamps, some dextron IV, brake fluid, and some 5W30....yeah that's about it.

 

Do you mean Dexron VI? there was no Dextron period, and GM never made an IV spec trans fluid.

 

ibspellingna--.... er.. ibspellingfanatic

he's corrected me on it before

 

Sorry for the spelling error. I thought the can said Dexron 4. Oh well...whatever the most updated one is, is the one I got.

 

better double check the bottle
maybe it's counterfeit, and it is marked Dextron IV

 

How in the world to you put the driver side axle back in? I tried shoving and prying it but it will not go in. I am pretty sure I have the right axle. My tranny code is RS5FSOV, and this is the axle I bought http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductD...pe=945&PTSet=A

any tricks? I have the whole right side put together....just this axle and some fluids and I am ready to try it. I could use some help.

 

it's a pain... spin and work it in. it's got a circlip on there, and 2 sets of splines and that clip... just keep spinning it and pushing REALLY firmly until it goes in. successful completion of this task USUALLY warrants a beer. just ask greeny

 

Pull it out, turn it, push like a ****....if no go...pull it out..turn...push like a ****... rinse/repeat until seated..

 

Imagine humping your highschool date.

 

hahahhahaha....that's what I figured. I just was not able to get it last night so I went to the other side. Once I finished the right side I tried the left again. I got frustrated and gave up...I'll give it another shot tonight.

 

have you gone through a full revolution of the axle yet? it's possible (tho i haven't counted them to see... i will later today) that the 2 spline sets don't have the same # of teeth and therefore will only line up one way the VG axle is a million times easier to put in... cuz there's no VLSD and just 1 set of splines.

 

Not only is it possible, it's fact...IIRC, it's 31 outer/ 29 inner, or vise versa, I can't remember which.

 

oh goodlord...that's why it wont go in. My fourth gen axles were so much easier to pop in but they are open diff. too. I guess I will try spinning it tooth by tooth. Does anyone know an easier way other than just trying every tooth? I guess if I try 31 times and it does not go then I missied it at some point

 

Don't try every tooth, just pull it out, turn 1/4 turn, then pop it in there quick and hard..

seriously, just like that

 

you mean it should all be over in 30 seconds?

 

I got the axle back in, on about my third attempt at rotating and shoving, then from there I put that side back together. After that the only thing I had left to do was add fluids and hook up the battery. First turn of the key she fired right up The oil light on the dash was on for about 10 seconds or so until the oil circulated and then went off. It idles pretty smooth and that's about all I can tell at this point since it does not have an exhaust on it. I had to cut the old y pipe off and now I cannot get the two nuts off of the studs at the catalytic converter, so I am going to drive it to a close by shop to get them to take it off. Also since I got it running ~ 10 pm last night I did not want to take it out of the garage to let it warm up, so the exahust was just coming out into the garage. Once I get a chance to roll it outside I can let the engine warm up and really check things out. It currently has a cold idle of about 1300 rpm. That's all for now. I will post up when I have had a chance to let it get warm.

 

congrats on getting it running!!

 

I have not looked in the owners manual for the car yet for the octane rating but I am guessing the VE take premium? Let me know.

 

87 is fine unless you will be running advanced timing, and/or have a bad knock sensor.

 

sweet!! For some reason I had it in my mind I thought they required 91 or higher...I know my fourth gens do, and I know the compression is higher on the VE than the VG.

 

The manual states that it's "recommended" but it's not required..I run 87 most of the time.

 

I always ran 93. 87 will cause a loss of power compared to 91/3

 

I notice no power difference from either grade...