I'd use my y-pipe with those headers if I did end up getting them.

 

o don't think they would line up. see how the ends are angled? compared to the normal y which goes straight up and down?

 

I know that they won't line up, but I sure can make it line up.

 

if the stock manifolds aren't equal length and thats their main weakness then how would non-equal length headers work if their not equal either than they wouldn't see any performance gains over the stock manifold all they would do would make them more "free flowing" which is what u said "doesn't mean ****"

what other than equal length and a "free flowing" design will add any horsepower?

 

that's a daft statement. Just because a header isn't equal-length doesn't mean it's as bad as a stock manifold.... someone was saying that both the dynamics of the air around bends as well as length play into that. The key is that it takes the same amount of time for the exhaust pulse to get from the head to the collector. If you have to make one pipe shorter because it has sharper bends in it, that's fine. The end justifies the means, so to speak. That's how come equal length doesn't automatically mean it's the best possible design. Equal TIMING seems like it is more important than fixed lengths.

 

IMO equal lenght aren't as important as free flow/maintaining gas velocity and retaining heat energy...Equal lenght promotes more balance through out the system which can make slightly more power due to being more efficeint ( pulse waves) but the sound quality is more desireable when it's primaries are closely matched. Anything is better than those OEM VG exhaust manifolds, they are contraptions created by some engineer's grade school child. Very crude and primative

 

505max - thanks for the idea and inspiration for the modified WSP y-pipe.

I've got a '89 VG max GXE (auto tranny... eh.) with a 2.5" WSP y-pipe, b-pipe w/ resonator, 2.5" muffler, etc and anyway it's just way too LOUD for my tastes. What I dislike is the overwhelming low, droning tones.

My wife hates driving the car and has expressed concern about me losing hearing from driving it too long!

I have tried three different mufflers and the only one that helped was really restrictive (kind of undoing all the performance the WSP 2.5" mandrel system added, at least in my mind) so I just couldn't help putting it on, and it was also kind of expensive, but I've been thinking about it.

I was almost ready to try buying a new, high quality (IE: perforated core, large housing, long length) resonator, cutting out whatever resonator WSP put on, and welding in the new one but then I saw your posted about modifying the WSP y-pipe to make it equal length. Bingo! That might cut down on the uneven pulses from the cylinders combining together to make the loud, low frequency sound waves.

Come to think of it, wasn't the stock Y-pipe equal length? (albeit restrictive.)

I've got a TIG welder, 2" exhaust pipe (even mandrel aluminized tube) is CHEAP compared to larger diameter stainless bends; I might be willing to try modding mine similar to how you did yours! It sounds more fun and thinking about it more, like it might yield a better result than the resonator upgrade idea.

The 180 degree bend I noticed the way you did it (welding together pieces), looked too tight for mandrel bend and the way you did it looked much tighter than even the metal doughnut (where center line bend radius is the diameter of the tube). I think I will probably just get a piece of 2" mandrel and cut that up and weld as needed to get tight radius as needed, just like you have done with yours. I wouldn't want it hanging down any lower than whatever is already the lowest part down there.

-edit-
hey check this out - I gave negative critique to the WSP performance Y-pipe after I put it on about it doing away with the Equal length feature that the stock Y-pipe had. I guess I wasn't just smoking crack back then?
http://forums.maxima.org/1721245-post8.html

 

this is almost exactly the sort of design i was talking about.. not for 3G, but it's a proper representation of my slapdash poweroint-created picture

http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/5...bx-design.html

 

When i went to NTI in NC one of the main corses at the school was using and doing real time mods on the schools engine dyno. we where swapping equal lenght, un-equal length, long tube, short tube, and the differences where not all that much. granted we couldnt bolt up stock 350 headers to it but to see real time what was going on was very helpful. but the poison you pick is depending on the aplication you use it for. for these reasons i am going to make up a set of longer tube un-equal headers because i would like to get a little better scavenging from the cylinders and a little bit more mid range torque from my VG useing the stock manifolds as a template. IMO the stock manifolds on both the VEs and VGs are not that bad as far as OEM goes. i mean it looks like nissan tried before they said good enough but the part of nissans wisdom that is left to be desired is the ugly ugly exhaust port in the VG. they look like hell and i have read some encouraging articels that say a port job on just the exhaust is a big help.

but anyway the pipes sound great man! just love it.

 

I just took the plunge and ordered a couple 2" aluminized steel mandrel bend pieces, intending to basically copy 505max's equal length Y-pipe modification to my own max GXE w/ VG motor.

I may consider implementing something with a horizontal 180 degree bend mimicing the newer-generation maxima equal length Y-pipe designs (to allow a more gradual bend, by wrapping it around horizontally instead of vertically) however that would require more extensive modification to the other pipe I determined looking underneath there, and there still may not even be enough room for it. My main goal is reducing the droning sound. I considered getting a new stock Y-pipe to put on, but I'm going to give a shot to modifying my WSP Y-pipe instead. The other route I contemplated was getting all stainless pieces and re-doing the whole thing from scratch, but the cost and time just doesn't make sense for me.

The way 505max did it is probably the way that makes sense to modify an existing WSP Y-pipe. I can try and make my welds a little more visually attractive, but he did a good job in the 180 degree bend section, where I think it matters most from a performance standpoint.

Before I take this project on, perhaps I should replace my old worn out motor/tranny mounts (>200k on motor) so I don't design my Y-pipe to be customized for an incorrect (sagged down) engine position. Can anyone point me to what mount is likely bad (I hear a clunk sound on the passenger side [edit: actually the sound comes from the driver's side] when I go over bumps I think is related to a bad motor or tranny mount perhaps over there...) how to diagnose or change them, and what to use and where to get replacements?

 

i would recommend putting on new mounts if they are bad, period.. not just for exhaust. but i think it might factor into the engine's resting position as well. engine mounts are pretty simple to replace. jack the car up high enough to get under there, then loosen the nuts on them (3 apiece) and then jack the oilpan up with some wood under it enough to where the load stabilizes and the bolts are not under any pressure... they'll slide right out. swap in the new mount, slide the bolts in (may need to adjust the jack SOME, but not much) and bolt it back together. just do one at a time, that's the safer way. rear mount is tougher to get to, ie, you might have to come in from the top or pull the ypipe away or something, but it's not THAT bad i don't think. you can get the bottom 2 for like $150 for both from courtesy, or refill them with poly yourself for about $35 plus the cost of a torch if you don't have one.

 

[off-topic follow-up:] Thanks for the info on the motor mounts. Maybe mine are OK after all. I tried jacking under the engine/tranny in various locations, to gauge the amount of engine "lift" compared to the frame, and found it just didn't move around much... seems tight.

I guess that "clunk" noise I've been hearing from the driver's side must be something else. Oh well, good to know my motor mounts are OK, and shouldn't hold up my planned Y-pipe equal length mod.

 

Sounds good! Hopefully I can get mine done soon. (Bender took a crap)

 

My mandrel-bent tubes have arrived. The service was super fast from columbia river mandrel bending. I got two 180 degree bends in 16-ga aluminized steel with 3" center line radius (8" toroidal OD)
http://store.racing-solutions.org/2alst180de3r.html

If I don't revamp my WSP y-pipe's other pipe, I will likely need to make it even smaller radius than that... (Maybe like 505maxima's example, at about 1.5" center line radius / 5" toroidal OD.)

If I need to reduce the radius I plan on doing it by removing pie-shaped slices and welding the pieces together. I should be able to make as tight as necessary bend with this method. (but obviously, flow will be better with as gradual a bend as possible.)

A 2" tube doughnut like these:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product
would have been 2.0" center line radius (and toroidal OD of 6".) But they cost quite a bit more than a mandrel bent tube, and I wasn't confident it would even be tight enough to use without hacking up into slices.

Unfortunately, I was planning on doing the fit-up work (and tack-welding) in the driveway outside, but the weather is just so completely crappy (windy, cold, rainy) that might hold up my progress for some time here.

I will explore pipe routing options allow maintaining a more gradual bend, but don't hold your breath for it with me, as it's really cramped down there and I value my ground clearance.

 

nice welds.

 

How much time/frustration was involved in making that curve? Great work Sean

 

About 2 hrs.

Thanks!

I recently shortened the rear pipe by 3" to make it completely equal length. The exhaust sounds even better now and it's not raspy at all. I also installed an Innovate LM-1 and an Apexi V-AFC II. The AFR is currently in the mid 13's and it runs great.

 

Hmmm... that's great. So, when will you post a new video w/sound? And, if you would consider taking orders let us know price and time frame.

 

Purchase a Nismo or equivalent adjustable fuerl pressure regulator and turn up the pressure a little bit. 12.5 perfect for n/a.

 

I have an afpr and it's set to 43 psi. I use the vafc to adjust the afr. Why do you think 12.5 makes the most power? Have you dyno tuned a VE?

 

I'll post another video when I have time, but I won't be producing any y-pipes. Sorry.

 

sleepyvg30e did you get your y-pipe from WSP?
wtf happened to all that GD hype?!!? typical 3rd gen section.

 

 

seriously bunch of effin bench racers. sleepy comes in and tells everyone that there's going to be a GD. gp comes in and give me a hard time about the price. at the end of the day there's effing NOTHING on the table.

what a waste of time.

Let this be a lesson to the n00Bs....I'M ALWAYS RIGHT



jk

 

no jk was needed.... cuz you ARE right

 

No, That's the typical N/a safe side of the A/F ratio @ wide open throttle! At that mid 13 afr you'll make more power but one ignition miss will definitely lean you out and could cause some problems, it's not as critical as on force induction cars.

 

fixed..

 

who's gp?

 

I am fairly confident he is already aware of this, and more...

 

http://forums.maxima.org/members/gpmax.html

 

And yet neither of you were aware of the problem with the Katzkins that i'm now stuck with I have an idea, how about we divide the leather into 3 and make handbags out of the material

 

what problem?

 

left field?

 

Long story short, i'd like to see the 3rd gen they were designed after. They're basically uninstallable. All pieces are cut small, back seat too narrow and is made of multiple pieces which don't fit on a 3rd gen seat.

Back on topic..

 

too narrow sounds like a stanza rear seat.

 

I don't think so, unless you mean earlier than u12. I wish they were for a different car, that way I could sell them and the buyer could actually install the kit

Thanks for the idea, but I think it's just a botched job and meant for a 3rd gen, they smell good though.

 

i am thinking U12, since the seats are the same as the J30, except a little bit narrower.
John compared them once upon a time.

 

I was waiting to hear what the other guy (sleepy) talking to WSP was doing before I got involved. I sent PM's in December to DaNY and last I heard we were going to wait to see what WSP did with Sleepy since he was desiging something? I didn't disappear- I just didn't want to be talking over what the other guy who supposedly had a thread with a group buy starting (despite that DaNY told him not to)

 

- there's no product...how are you/we going to run a GD w/o an actual product. we can't exactly GD an idea of a part. forum rule...NO GD w/o vendor status or proper authorization. Neither was given to sleepy.
- the product needs to be proven to WORK...we don't have that because the above. without proof that it's going to work you will have 0 in your GD.
- sleepy was supposed to come through but like everyone else he flakes. imagine he did do the GD and people sent him money...good luck trying to recover that.
- i didn't say you disappeared..sleepy did.
- so after you busting my hump about the price and people saying this is going to be the best thing since sliced bread NOTHING happened...that's my point.

 

Duly noted. I am calling WSP about a 5th gen one so I'll talk to Dallas about this...I'll let you know what he says if its positive. Otherwise, I'll eat my crow and call it a day.