Brudda Bob

iTrader: (3)

Any sugestions? Problem has become pronounced with the installation of a UDP and is the worst in 1st and 2nd gears.

93SE working VLSD, Fidanza, UDP, 3 new oem engine mounts (5k miles), upgraded f/r sway bar and RSTB, new Kumho's ECsta 225/50/16 with 5 spoke 16 " 4th gen wheels,both new axles driver side is by Raxles.Koni's with Eibachs and the entire front suspension was replaced about 4K miles.



I have a stg2 Blemhco ltb to install, would that help?

THx

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

fill the mounts with flexane.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

Way cheaper, a little ghetto, but works the same...

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

greeny:
did you essentially make it a solid mount, or did you just stretch (err, compress) the bushing until it wouldnt move anymore?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

yes, it's essentially a solid mount, it's metal plate bolted between the motor mount bolts on the rear motor mount. it allows for a tiny amount of movement, very tiny. It also increases engine vibration 2 fold, but it will virtually eliminate wheel hop.

This is a common mod on drag strip fwd cars.

akurtzer57

iTrader: (4)

Tire pressure? Friend had bad wheel hop checked is pressure was at 45!!!

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

holy jerry rig batman
do that and welds will start to break...esp on NYC streets.

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I has a welder..

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

well the trans mounts will still be rubberized.. so it can still rock that way. and the brace is only on one side of the mount. so it's not a COMPLETELY rocksolid mount, just mostly solid mount... is that still too risky on the welds? Also, would putting new bushings on the xmember holes make the solidly braced mounts easier on the welds?

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Instead of the metal strap why not a small hydraulic dampner or some Window Weld 08609 up in those mounts?

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

b/c that'll cost too much.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i mean, whatever works as long as it's not gonna break. the reason i was thinking the straps would be OK is because they aren't quite as massive as a totally solid mount, rather, just holding onto it from one side and thin enough to have SOME give via flexation and not be as noisy as a big, beefy solid mount.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Too bad he couldn't install some bowflex bands down there...LOL

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

j00 knoweth what I meaneth. i just figured that if the braces are not too beefy, they'd keep from rattling the frame too much. is that way way off? just a little off? mostly right? where am i on the spectrum of correct-conceptual-thinking here?

Greeny

iTrader: (43)

I'm cheap that way..

Brudda Bob

iTrader: (3)

The proposed solutions will resolve the issue but create another problem:Vibration.

I prefer to deal with wheel hop rather than vibration or I'll just remove the UDP or flywheel.

Thanks everyone for your input.Always something to learn on this forum

DanNY

iTrader: (14)

ok fill in ONE mount.
also use a softer flexane mix.

problem solved

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

what about metalbracing ONE mount and not the other? goodbadstupid? Before my front one shifted forward a little bit, the driving sensation was GODLIKE. Two or three shifts into my testdrive with the brace on, I did this. I could drive as sloppy as a 14 year old first learning stick and the damn thing absorbed every ounce of shock. It was awesome. Now it's shifted a little bit, causing me to have to refine my design..... for for that week... zomg.

I just hate to worry that something that caused the car to drive SO WELL could be SO BAD for it. The brace I made was 16 gauge steel btw. There was NO noticeable increase in NVH at all, except when almost stalling out, and when cranking the engine.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Use an chain or a cable to control it at it limit, so during normal driving there's no vibration, you can wrap the chain with dust tape or a bicycle tire tube to isolate the noise of the chain. Better yet chain the block or head to the crossmember and leave the desired amount of slack until under acceleration and the slack is now tight and going nowhere is the engine.

Maxpwer

iTrader: (7)

On a car like the maxima, which has a nicely balanced V6 you will notice very little vibration even with the stiffest of mounts. Ive made many many different motor mounts and even the most solid only increase vibration at idle (hardly noticeable) The higher the RPM, the less noticeable so you will only feel extra vibration at idle (if at all). On the flip side, I made some mild mounts for a 4 cylinder engine (they are naturally unbalanced) and it rattles all the windows and really shakes the car.

The straps used here by greeny and caped are a perfect solution for someone nervous about extra vibration. Its only two bolts and doesn't require the removal of the motor mounts. If you think it increases vibration or NVH then it is easily removed.

I am currently using motor mounts with 2.5" larger center pins (which leaves only 1/2" for rubber) and very stiff urethane. I have virtually no wheel hop with more power than stock, and I really don't think I have ANY extra vibration. Many org members have ridden in my car and no one has every said anything about vibration or NVH. My point being, I really encourage you to experiment with the motor mounts, as you will likely not notice any vibration and you WILL enjoy the acceleration without that dread full wheel hop!

3g94MaxGXE

Vibration isn't terrible, my car doesn't have the most consistent idle in the world (can get pretty close to 500rpm), has messed up mounts and it still will not rattle your brains out.

I'm filling my mounts with 3M Window Weld ASAP and I expect an increase in comfort as much as my engine flops around. Only took a ASE certified guy I know 1 block driving my car to realize my mounts were seriously messed up.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i'm amazed you can even notice it on an automatic. I didn't know how bad mine were until I started playing around with my TCU and manually engaging the lockup clutch... THEN i noticed they were bad. Of course i could just turn that back off. But then it died and i put a 5spd in instead.... can't turn off the clutch on a 5spd tho haha, and that's when it's really a pain in the ***.