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Cold Cranking Amps?

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Old Jan 16, 2009 | 06:10 PM
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Cold Cranking Amps?

Well my Max didnt turn on when I came from work. Thought it was the starter.
Where I moved is colder then where I use to live at. Tonight gotta be like 2 Degrees or less. Its a brand new battery. At least 5 months old. Lights didnt turn off when I tried to turn on the car. Felt like battery is not strong enough.Connected the cables started in a turn of the key. I turn off car it'll start right up.


My battery says 710 cranking amps at 32 degrees .575 cold cranking amps
My wifes van that I used to boost said 825 ca at 32 degrees ,660 cca. Which is stronger.

Do you think I need a stronger battery?
Or change spark plugs? Which I changed about a little over a year.

Any help will be appreciated.
Old Jan 16, 2009 | 07:29 PM
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Originally Posted by JRS89MAX
Well my Max didnt turn on when I came from work. Thought it was the starter.
Where I moved is colder then where I use to live at. Tonight gotta be like 2 Degrees or less. Its a brand new battery. At least 5 months old. Lights didnt turn off when I tried to turn on the car. Felt like battery is not strong enough.Connected the cables started in a turn of the key. I turn off car it'll start right up.


My battery says 710 cranking amps at 32 degrees .575 cold cranking amps
My wifes van that I used to boost said 825 ca at 32 degrees ,660 cca. Which is stronger.

Do you think I need a stronger battery?
Or change spark plugs? Which I changed about a little over a year.

Any help will be appreciated.
ur battery is not holding charge...u gotta change it....or have ur auto parts store test it for u...but i m pretty sure its gonna be wat i told u
Old Jan 16, 2009 | 08:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JRS89MAX
Well my Max didnt turn on when I came from work. Thought it was the starter.
Where I moved is colder then where I use to live at. Tonight gotta be like 2 Degrees or less. Its a brand new battery. At least 5 months old. Lights didnt turn off when I tried to turn on the car. Felt like battery is not strong enough.Connected the cables started in a turn of the key. I turn off car it'll start right up.


My battery says 710 cranking amps at 32 degrees .575 cold cranking amps
My wifes van that I used to boost said 825 ca at 32 degrees ,660 cca. Which is stronger.

Do you think I need a stronger battery?
Or change spark plugs? Which I changed about a little over a year.

Any help will be appreciated.

Do you have a Volt meter? highly suggested for any battery issue. they can be as cheap as five bucks (just throwing that out there). but anyway check the voltage on the battery before you start it again ( you should have 13+ volts). since you said that the bat is about 5 months old i would think is got some drain on it or you may have corrosion in the positive cable. take a good look at the terminals. i would hate for you to exchange a relatively new battery and have the same issue
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 12:26 AM
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Originally Posted by 300zmax
Do you have a Volt meter? highly suggested for any battery issue. they can be as cheap as five bucks (just throwing that out there). but anyway check the voltage on the battery before you start it again ( you should have 13+ volts). since you said that the bat is about 5 months old i would think is got some drain on it or you may have corrosion in the positive cable. take a good look at the terminals. i would hate for you to exchange a relatively new battery and have the same issue
If your battery is reading 13+ volts at rest, it's overcharged. If the alternator is overcharging the battery, it can kill it relatively quickly, depending.

Should be ~12.6 volts at rest, if it's fully charged.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by pmohr
If your battery is reading 13+ volts at rest, it's overcharged. If the alternator is overcharging the battery, it can kill it relatively quickly, depending.

Should be ~12.6 volts at rest, if it's fully charged.
PMohr is right.

Battery at rest without the engine running should read somewhere between 12 and 12.8. With the engine running and charging it could be up to 13.8 volts. Anything higher and you are actually overcharging and cooking your battery. That would be a sign of a bad regulator in your alternator.

If the battery is only 5 months old then you should be able to take it back. Most new batteries have at least a one year full replacement warrenty.

Have them test the battery. You can also get them to test the charging system with the engine running.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:39 AM
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This morning its 0 degrees. Went and turned on the car started on the second turn of key. The first turn felt like the battery wasnt kicking it hard enough. Gonna wait a lil and check the voltage.

Also where I park at in the morning to go to work would be even colder. Cause its all open.I park over a block of ice.(They dont shovel s#$%. thatll stay there till March) So the Max be sitting on ice for a good 15 hours at 0 degrees or lower.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 06:49 AM
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Ok. checked the voltage on the battery.

With the car off and -2 degrees outside : 12.32v
Turned car on: 14.44v

So going by this info I have below on off it should of read 12.588v
So it could be the battery. Gonna let the car settle a lil and do one more check.


A fully charged battery should read about 12.6 volts. If the battery reads 12.4 volts or less, it is low (discharged) and needs to be recharged.

Battery Voltage and State of Charge:

12.68v . . . . . . . . . . 100%
12.45v . . . . . . . . . . 75%
12.24v . . . . . . . . . . 50%
12.06v . . . . . . . . . . 25%
11.89v . . . . . . . . . . 0%

(NOTE: these readings are at 80 degrees F. Battery voltage readings will drop with temperature roughly 0.01 volts for every 10 degrees F.)
(At 30 degrees F. a fully charged battery will measure about 12.588 volts, and at zero degrees F it will measure about 12.516 volts.)
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 07:35 AM
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Well just did a reading with the car off. It read 12.29v at 3 degrees outside.

So according to the chart above. Its not holding the charge? Or could it be something else?
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 08:01 AM
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its holding charge just fine, anything over 12v is great. sometimes starters get sticky in cold weather. Most cars I just hold the key til the starter warms up. Like my buddys 92 svx, if you turn the key nothing happens but if you hold it on after 5 seconds the starter kicks in. Just keep the key bury for 10 seconds for the electronics to heat up but don't double start it :P it was -14 with -30 wind chill going to work yesterday.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 11:52 AM
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Ok . I check my wife's van and the voltage was a lil over 12v and starts up with no problem. So it cant be the battery like Max Gordon7 said. But I did find a leak in the fuel rail. If you facing the motor.The left hose on the fuel rail. Not a major leak but its leaking. Dont now if its cracked. Didnt see it dripping but could be leaking out. Tighten it up . Gonna let the car sit for a while to see what happens. I have a spare.

Could this cause the starting problem?
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 05:57 PM
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did you check how tight your cables are on the battery?
loose cables make it harder to start.
FSM sez:
CCA / Resrve capacity:
USA: 355 / 50
Canada (optional USA): 582 / 65
optional Canada: 622 / 80

your battery's CCA is adequate. chances are so is it's reserve. Do you do long drives at 2k rpm or short drives all over the RPM band?
Short drives will kill a battery rapidly.
it looks like we already need a new battery in my dad's corollla though it is only about a year old. However that car is used for dog walking so it doesn't travel very far. Wife's van just got a new battery, it's battery had been replaced in august of 06.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 07:25 PM
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I used to use it to go to work which was about 50 miles a day never had this problem. Now I maybe put 5 to 10 miles a week. Last winter I had this same problem. Spring , Summer and Fall no problem.
Old Jan 17, 2009 | 07:41 PM
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dude, the battery which doesn't hold charge means when u test it with volt meter it will appears to be jus FINE...u gotta stress it to find out that how long it can hold the charge for....and for that u need a load tester, and voltages isnt the only thing needs to be OKAY...it gotta have good current too.....i m so tired ritenow to write but this link should explain everything for u....

http://www.uoit.ca/ecocar/technical/batttest.pdf


if u dont have sources to reach then gud thing would be to go to where u bought that battery and tell them to test it and they will tell u if its gud or not....for free...doesnt take much time

EDIT: o ya one more thing, does ur battery have a holding clamp on it so it wont move and wont get any vibrations wen u r driving...vibration is one of the biggest enemy of batteries

Last edited by burhan92SE; Jan 17, 2009 at 07:49 PM.
Old Jan 18, 2009 | 08:07 AM
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This morning car turn on with no problem. Sat all night. I wonder from trying to start so many times It died out. And the real problem was the leak in the fuel rail that I mentioned above. Also checked the gas leak nothing today.
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