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Driver's window one-touch down fix

Old May 7, 2009 | 04:26 PM
  #1  
mszilves's Avatar
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From: Vancouver, BC
Driver's window one-touch down fix

I came across an old thread where others were having the same symptoms as me. I've had the same problem for a while, just been lazy to take a look at it: the one-touch down button on the driver's window would only bring the window down about 1/3 of the way each time you hit the auto down button. Someone suggested that it may be the capacitors, so I opened it up, and sure enough, a couple of them were leaking. This happens pretty often and is one of the most common problems on old circuit boards. Since it was hard to tell exactly which ones were leaking, I just went ahead and replaced all of them. There are 5 in total, about 30 cents each at any electronic shop.

1. 22uF 16V
2. 22uF 25V
3. 1uF 50V
4. 1uF 50V
5. 330uF 16V

So wanted to post up a pic of the repaired board, in case others want to do the fix. (for the 22uF caps I went with 35V ones, since that's what my shop had, as long as they are the same size, and of equal or higher voltage than the original, they should be fine)

My driver's window goes all the way down now when you hit the one-touch down button.

Old May 7, 2009 | 05:41 PM
  #2  
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Nice work mang.
Old May 7, 2009 | 06:00 PM
  #3  
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Posts: 58
Bad capacitors

Originally Posted by mszilves
I came across an old thread where others were having the same symptoms as me. I've had the same problem for a while, just been lazy to take a look at it: the one-touch down button on the driver's window would only bring the window down about 1/3 of the way each time you hit the auto down button. Someone suggested that it may be the capacitors, so I opened it up, and sure enough, a couple of them were leaking. This happens pretty often and is one of the most common problems on old circuit boards. Since it was hard to tell exactly which ones were leaking, I just went ahead and replaced all of them. There are 5 in total, about 30 cents each at any electronic shop.

1. 22uF 16V
2. 22uF 25V
3. 1uF 50V
4. 1uF 50V
5. 330uF 16V

So wanted to post up a pic of the repaired board, in case others want to do the fix. (for the 22uF caps I went with 35V ones, since that's what my shop had, as long as they are the same size, and of equal or higher voltage than the original, they should be fine)

My driver's window goes all the way down now when you hit the one-touch down button.

Thanks for the heads up Man,How hard is it to solder that circuit without melting it or getting it too hot? Might need to edit your post and warn people how easy it is to get circuit too hot and ruin,but again very helpful foreknowledge. Thanks,Maxman7
Old May 7, 2009 | 06:27 PM
  #4  
mszilves's Avatar
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Posts: 241
From: Vancouver, BC
Originally Posted by maxman7
Thanks for the heads up Man,How hard is it to solder that circuit without melting it or getting it too hot? Might need to edit your post and warn people how easy it is to get circuit too hot and ruin,but again very helpful foreknowledge. Thanks,Maxman7
Good point... it's not too bad of a job, all but the big cap are surface mount, so fairly easy to do. You probably don't want to do this as your first electronic repair though if you've never soldered.

It all starts with having a good soldering iron with a small tip (suitable for circuit boards). You don't need it too hot, as it's small parts on the circuit. To remove the old caps, just heat the connectors on the caps, and massage the caps off with an exacto knife. Keep heating/massaging until the caps come off. Be careful, you don't want to tear them off, and accidentally tear the board leads below. To get the new ones on, just put little dabs of solder onto the surfaces (surface mount caps) and heat as you place the caps on, they should stick pretty quickly.

Get some good resin core solder, and don't leave the iron on the board for any extended period of time, though the board can resist a fair amount of heat.

Again, not for beginners, but not a particularly tough job.
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