My 89 Max is wanting for power, as I'm sure some of you know about. So, I am wondering besides an engine swap and simple bolt-ons what is the best way to maximize the power band of the VG30E?

Of course, the obvious answer is FI/turbo, but then that begs the question how does a turbo affect the power band overall? Of course it balloons as the turbo spools, but that is not likely until about 3000 rpms or more (generally). I am looking for power adders that will maximize the power band from 1500-2000 and all the way to redline.

Of course, building the engine internally including possibly increasing bore and stroke would help, but first I would like to address the exhaust.

Has anyone, besides Goon9, added a true dual exhaust to the 3rd Maxima? The reason I exclude Goon's setup is because I don't want to delete my spare tire well. I know that there is not much room on the drivers side for a muffler back there unless the tire well is "modified" but a friend of mine has a dual setup with just a pipe running to that side and it doesn't sound too bad. I don't know though if that is the best setup for sound and power. Any other examples out there?

Anyway, I do plan on going turbo eventually, but in the meantime I would like to maximize power N/A first and then add FI on top of it for the best of both worlds.

FYI, I already have a WSP Y-pipe with stock CAT and CAT-Back and Stillen HAI.

Thanks for any input.

 

goon's wasn't true dual either. his was stock-esque just 2.5" until it got to the muffler, which was a G35c muffler. actually come to think of it, i have his engine, exhaust manifolds, ypipe, cat, and bpipe..... i have his entire setup, minus the muffler.

true duals would still require an xpipe w/ 02 sensor bung, so it wouldn't be 2 totally separate streams.

 

Would true duals even help an N/A setup? If not, what is the pipe diameter for an N/A motor, 2.5" all the way back? Or is 2.25" better?

I know 3" is too much for N/A but is good for Boost, but I was thinking for low end pre-spool power to keep the diameter smaller, at least cat back, and add an exhaust cut-out later when I add a turbo. What do you think?

 

uh... well, a true dual would basically be the same thing as an equal length ypipe, as there would be no collisions between exhaust pulses from LH bank vs RH bank... for n/a most people like 2.25". I guess if you have massive cams, 2.5" will be OK tho. maxpwer likes his 3" just fine and he also said that his car has more low-end power than pre-turbo also.

what is your nominal WHP goal?

 

a properly planned turbo setup will have power from off idle. The "turbo lag" that you are thinking of is from a poorly selected turbo. Go drive a newer turbo car versus an 80s turbo car.

 

All turbo's have atleast some lag, some (aftermarket) more noticeable than others (factory).

More power from idle to redline isnt the simplest thing to cover. This is a 3 litre engine you're working with. Adjusting your timing for low end power and the turbo for higher end power (or the other way around) is your best bet. Simply adding a turbo wont overall improve your power band. Most of your power by default is in the mid range.

If you want to increase bore and stroke, keep in mind things like heat dispersion.
If you want to run a turbo AND increase the bore/stroke, do some number crunching, because you definately wont be able to run the same pressure.

 

dont worry about "dual exhaust" the benefits of an eylp are minimal at best a dual exhaust is probably even less unless u want equal length headers, eylp, and dual exhaust i wouldn't bother with it

if ur looking for good low end power and u want something that can be helpful on any turbo setup u get in the future i would get a set of stage 1 jwt cams ( stage 1= more torque stage 2= more high end)
matched with a set of stage 2 springs from jwt

match those with a nismo ecu and youve got restored high end power, dramatically improved torque, an overall increase in the powerband, and a fully adjustable laptop plug in ecu that can help u tune the car to save gas, increase power, and easily add on a turbo whenever u feel like it

whole setup will cost just over $1000........ which is about the same price as equal length headers, dual exhaust, and throwing out your wsp y pipe and buying an equal length one

th only thing that gets more power for your money than camshafts is nitrous and turbo

if u want a cheap mod ASP udp is about 8hp for $150 (18hp on turbo)

 

you mean nistune? like hadman and maxpwer (ve and vgt, respectively) have? that's the laptop-tuneable ECU system for us.

 

Emulator is laptop tunable as well. Depending on finances, would be a bit cheaper. Mine cost $30 to install in a guys in-home computer repair shop.