Anybody ever actually "fix" their alarm?
#1
2 VE's are better than one!
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iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7,358
Anybody ever actually "fix" their alarm?
So on my "new" '92, I figured out why the seatbelts and clock and whatnot didn't work. It was simply missing the 10 amp electronic battery fuse. Stuck that fuse back in and it was all good.
Well, last week, I unlocked the door and the alarm promptly went off (ugh). Fidgeted with the key in the door to no avail. I ended up unplugging the battery for a while (this usually works on my other one) but as soon as I hooked it back up it started going off again. Had a thought to unplug that 10 amp fuse and it finally stopped.
Well today, I replaced a regulator on it, and drove it around a bit. Stuck that fuse back in and the alarm promptly goes right back off! It's been over a week. I tried to 'trick' it by putting it back in with the engine running but it just keeps honking anyway.
So, anybody ever actually *fixed* the alarm problems? I believe I read a while back it was a door lock cylinder issue. I've resorted to leaving my other '92 unlocked because I can't afford to get virtually held hostage by the alarm (which became all too common), and I guess I'll have to do the same with this one.
Well, last week, I unlocked the door and the alarm promptly went off (ugh). Fidgeted with the key in the door to no avail. I ended up unplugging the battery for a while (this usually works on my other one) but as soon as I hooked it back up it started going off again. Had a thought to unplug that 10 amp fuse and it finally stopped.
Well today, I replaced a regulator on it, and drove it around a bit. Stuck that fuse back in and the alarm promptly goes right back off! It's been over a week. I tried to 'trick' it by putting it back in with the engine running but it just keeps honking anyway.
So, anybody ever actually *fixed* the alarm problems? I believe I read a while back it was a door lock cylinder issue. I've resorted to leaving my other '92 unlocked because I can't afford to get virtually held hostage by the alarm (which became all too common), and I guess I'll have to do the same with this one.
#2
I also believe it to be a door lock issue. on my old ve, i noticed when i unlocked it with the key, the manual unlock thingy on the top of the door(at a loss for words on what it's actually called ) doesn't "pop up" all the way, causing the alarm to go off. I think if it doesn't pop up all the way, it in turn doesn't disengage the door alarm sensor/solenoid/whatever it is
maybe some plastic grommets or something along that line is worn out/loose in the pop up door thingy..
My vg started doing the same thing about 3-4 months ago, noticed the same thing on it also, the pop lock thingy doesn't "pop up" all the way.i just use the keypad to unlock it now..
maybe some plastic grommets or something along that line is worn out/loose in the pop up door thingy..
My vg started doing the same thing about 3-4 months ago, noticed the same thing on it also, the pop lock thingy doesn't "pop up" all the way.i just use the keypad to unlock it now..
#3
2 VE's are better than one!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7,358
I also believe it to be a door lock issue. on my old ve, i noticed when i unlocked it with the key, the manual unlock thingy on the top of the door(at a loss for words on what it's actually called ) doesn't "pop up" all the way, causing the alarm to go off. I think if it doesn't pop up all the way, it in turn doesn't disengage the door alarm sensor/solenoid/whatever it is
Got any ideas on how to get my fuse back in and get the alarm to stfu on the "new" one?
#4
Yeah, that's what I noticed too a while back. I took to unlocking the door pretty hard (i.e., turning the key in the cylinder pretty hard/fast), and also turning it back and forth pretty hard a couple times before opening the door, but then eventually even that stopped working
Got any ideas on how to get my fuse back in and get the alarm to stfu on the "new" one?
Got any ideas on how to get my fuse back in and get the alarm to stfu on the "new" one?
#5
2 VE's are better than one!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7,358
Is there an actual "alarm box"? I thought the big problem with the 3rd gen was the alarm was all wired into the fuel system, etc. and that it was a big PITA to disable/override with an aftermarket unit
#6
( don't wanna give the whole world info on how to bypass )
#9
yeah, putting the key into the ignition(turn to on position), or pulling up the door lock all the way, stick the key back into the door lock, then going through the motion of unlocking the door will shut it off also.
#10
if the alarm gets activated when you unlock the front door, unlock the trunk and it will turn the alarm off.
also if you turn the key twice in the front lock and the rear door does not unlock then you know that the alarm will go off when you open the door. If i see this happen i just go unlock the trunk and everything is fine.
also if you turn the key twice in the front lock and the rear door does not unlock then you know that the alarm will go off when you open the door. If i see this happen i just go unlock the trunk and everything is fine.
#12
2 VE's are better than one!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7,358
if the alarm gets activated when you unlock the front door, unlock the trunk and it will turn the alarm off.
also if you turn the key twice in the front lock and the rear door does not unlock then you know that the alarm will go off when you open the door. If i see this happen i just go unlock the trunk and everything is fine.
also if you turn the key twice in the front lock and the rear door does not unlock then you know that the alarm will go off when you open the door. If i see this happen i just go unlock the trunk and everything is fine.
Never knew about the trunk, although that wouldn't help me because my trunk lock is seized and I can't unlock it with the key
#13
Yeah, I knew that about the rear doors. That's why I always try to turn the key over twice pretty hard to make sure all the doors "pop up". However, like I said, on one of my '92s that still doesn't work about half the time, then when the alarm actually gets set off no matter what combination I try of putting the key in the ignition, in the doors, etc. it never stops.
Never knew about the trunk, although that wouldn't help me because my trunk lock is seized and I can't unlock it with the key
Never knew about the trunk, although that wouldn't help me because my trunk lock is seized and I can't unlock it with the key
and I would (have) just unplugged the alarm box and everything works fine.
#14
Similar situation, but my trunk is keyed differently than the doors and ignition (it came to me that way). After playing with the door lock cylinders on both of my VEs, I found that it was much less of a headache to just disconnect the alarm. The space inside the door is pretty tight and not really worth the hassle. However, if you do decide to take up the project, I'd love to see what you find!
#15
Mine works fine when I use the driver door. I think my door lock timer needs work. About 10 percent of the time I will unlock the passenger side and opening the door will set off the alarm. About the same amount of time, I can't unlock all four doors when double turning the key in the driver door.
#16
2 VE's are better than one!
Thread Starter
iTrader: (31)
Join Date: Sep 2000
Location: Dallas
Posts: 7,358
My car sets off the alarm 100% of the time if I unlock the passenger door with the key. Since the issue is believed to be a contact problem in the door lock cylinder, I figured that makes sense since because over the life of the car the passenger door probably gets physically unlocked infinitely less than the driver door.
Also I've noticed over the years that the more time that goes by between physical unlocks increases the chances of setting off the alarm. For example, when I was driving the Maxima every day it never set it off. But then if I didn't drive it for a few days or weeks at a time, it would almost definitely set it off the first time I unlocked it.
I haven't tried the passenger door unlock in the "new" '92 though
Also I've noticed over the years that the more time that goes by between physical unlocks increases the chances of setting off the alarm. For example, when I was driving the Maxima every day it never set it off. But then if I didn't drive it for a few days or weeks at a time, it would almost definitely set it off the first time I unlocked it.
I haven't tried the passenger door unlock in the "new" '92 though
#17
there is a magnet on each side (driver and passenger) on the key cylinder..
i replaced a friends GXE handles for my SE because he was having the same problem....
looked at the handle connecting to the lock rod and a magnet passes something when unlocking...
i replaced a friends GXE handles for my SE because he was having the same problem....
looked at the handle connecting to the lock rod and a magnet passes something when unlocking...
#18
ive always had an aftermarket alarm but at first i keep my factory alarms plugged in
and i knew as long as i didnt accidently close the trunk last or manually lock the doors
before hitting the aftermarket key fob,it would never engage the factory alarm
it gets annoying when you accidently set both alarms and unlock with the after market alarm and the factory alarm honks the horn till you use the key in the door which
your not used to having to do
NOW i just have the factory ones unplugged with no issues
and i knew as long as i didnt accidently close the trunk last or manually lock the doors
before hitting the aftermarket key fob,it would never engage the factory alarm
it gets annoying when you accidently set both alarms and unlock with the after market alarm and the factory alarm honks the horn till you use the key in the door which
your not used to having to do
NOW i just have the factory ones unplugged with no issues
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