Doing an overhaul today on a Camry motor, and my friend used this Permatex product to spray on the new cylinder head gaskets before install:

http://www.permatex.com/products/Aut...ve_Sealant.htm

If our Maxima FSM doesn't mention to dress the gaskets in any way, did they omit this information on purpose...meaning it should only be installed dry?

The OEM Ishino gaskets for the VG are almost identical to the Camry gasket...ie. I'm pretty sure they are graphite with some metal in it.

So - to dress or not to dress?

Note that I need the integrity of this joint to be secure the first time (there's no going back once it's torqued or else it's very costly to do it all over again).....so...to follow the FSM or not, Don't know what to do.

 

While I have also used that stuff with no known disasters, I have remained a loyal fan of Indian Head.

Note that on custom, ultra high compression ratio engines with a pure metal "shim" of a few thou rather than an actual gasket, the desired compression characteristics can be severely affected by the application of any layer of anything to the metal surfaces.

 

IMO...the spray looks like something tacky for the head gasket to stick on. like spraying on copper paint. would it do damage? prob not...do you NEED to do this? prob not.

spray it out on something else and take a look. if it looks like a paint coating then i don't see how that would hurt. but if it's gooey or RTV gel consistence then keep it off the head.

 

Cool guys. It was sprayed on the Camry head gasket and it looked like copper spray paint when it was done...dry like but slightly tacky.

Side Note: I'm surprised how similar in the location of parts, the Camry is to the VG Maxima. Motor is slightly different than the VG (it's cam over bucket), but other than that it looks very close.

 

well a V6 is a V6 ya know.

 

Guys is it necessary as a final step to buff the head surfaces (metal) with a cotton buffing wheel..or some other sort of buffer I don't know about, before installing the gaskets?

I have the surface conditioning wheels (these are technically abrasives and actually remove metal if left idle) for the die grinder (MED,FINE, ULTRA FINE GRIT)...will the ultra-fine be sufficient before installing the gaskets?

 

The more metal to gasket surface contact area you have under the same pressure the better imo ..................... it simply distributes the gasket load more evenly and prevents gasket stress points.

Taking a buff to the head/block is a bit extreme and a waste of time imo - I normally end with about a 360 or 400 grit finish on both surfaces and so far have not had any gasket problems/failures due to my specific mounting techniques.

 

block sand with 1000 grit and i think you'll be fine. (not that you really need to do it but if you need to sleep better at night then do it).

it's more important you check the block deck and head for warping and etc.

 

I've used that Permatex copper (spray-a-gasket) on the last 5-7 engines I've built. I use this on the head, intake, thermostat housing, and oil pan gasket etc.....Never had any abnormalities, or failures. Works great on metal head gaskets and helps seal against leaks at the water and oil passages...I use it for that extra protection.
As far as the head and block surface finish...all that buffing and sand above is a watse of time on yalls behalf. The block and head if properly done by a machine shop should be finished on the course side to prevent the headgasket from moving due to the expansion rate difference of aluminum and cast iron.