Suspension Upgrades
08-28-2009, 05:57 AM
#42
I am going to upload some more pics from the past two days of work. I'll post them in a few.
08-28-2009, 06:09 AM
#43
I have worked on the back for the past few days, here are some of the pictures.
Up in the air.
back seats out.
Strut assembly removed.
This is for the guy that asked why I did not use the stock gland nuts. The tokico one is sitting on the tokico plastic bag. As you can see the stock nut is longer and does not have threads on the end.
Up in the air.
back seats out.
Strut assembly removed.
This is for the guy that asked why I did not use the stock gland nuts. The tokico one is sitting on the tokico plastic bag. As you can see the stock nut is longer and does not have threads on the end.
08-28-2009, 06:13 AM
#44
Here is a compairson of the stock strut bar to the ST.
Here is a compairson of the stock rear rotor, to the 86 Z31 rear rotor.
On the rears I cut the KYB bump stops in half because they were the same lengenth as the stockers.
Here the rears are all put together. I cut the dust shield so that I could bend it back flat so that it would not hit the Z31 rotor.
Here is a compairson of the stock rear rotor, to the 86 Z31 rear rotor.
On the rears I cut the KYB bump stops in half because they were the same lengenth as the stockers.
Here the rears are all put together. I cut the dust shield so that I could bend it back flat so that it would not hit the Z31 rotor.
08-28-2009, 06:17 AM
#45
I cut off the stock mounting point for the rear sway bar links, and installed the ones that came with Matt's kit with the self taping screws. I am going to have them welded when I have my muffler tip welded on next week too.
here is what it looks like with the sway bar installed.
view from the rear with the rsb installed.
BALLER
Post away. I will update the thread when I get adjustable arms for the rear. I will take a few pictures of the cars drop in the next few days too. I have not driven the car yet but I am happy with the stance.
here is what it looks like with the sway bar installed.
view from the rear with the rsb installed.
BALLER
Post away. I will update the thread when I get adjustable arms for the rear. I will take a few pictures of the cars drop in the next few days too. I have not driven the car yet but I am happy with the stance.
08-28-2009, 06:26 AM
#46
Nice license plate!
Hows the drop look? Is it lower in the back? I had ST springs on my car about 5 years back and got rid of them cuz the back was lower and it drove me crazy. That's one of my little pet-peeves on lowered cars
Hows the drop look? Is it lower in the back? I had ST springs on my car about 5 years back and got rid of them cuz the back was lower and it drove me crazy. That's one of my little pet-peeves on lowered cars
08-28-2009, 06:45 AM
#49
cardana, Nice work! I need to get some sway bars too, and run to the jy for some adjustable arms for the rear. I bet you can't wait to get this on the road and try all those new parts out!
08-28-2009, 06:48 AM
#50
No. The back seats take about one minute to take out. So I am in no hurry to do that.
08-28-2009, 07:28 AM
#51
08-28-2009, 07:44 AM
#52
here is the best price I found on the SPC rear arms. 120 shipped.
https://www.iapdirect.com/product.ph...0&cat=0&page=1
https://www.iapdirect.com/product.ph...0&cat=0&page=1
08-28-2009, 10:06 AM
#54
here is the best price I found on the SPC rear arms. 120 shipped.
https://www.iapdirect.com/product.ph...0&cat=0&page=1
https://www.iapdirect.com/product.ph...0&cat=0&page=1
the non-adjustable arms are located forward of the rear crossmember, and i think you have to drop the entire crossmember to slide that long bolt out since it will bump into the fuel tank before it can slide out. Someone challenge me if im wrong or if theres a work-around to this but i dont think there is (I personally didnt care since i was gutting my entire underbody anyway)
08-28-2009, 11:29 AM
#56
nice find on these arms! i was thinking of getting matts rear link set but was on the fence, its a good deal considering what you get but as it is im going to wind up deeper in the hole with this project, so i may go for those (still need his RSB links though)
the non-adjustable arms are located forward of the rear crossmember, and i think you have to drop the entire crossmember to slide that long bolt out since it will bump into the fuel tank before it can slide out. Someone challenge me if im wrong or if theres a work-around to this but i dont think there is (I personally didnt care since i was gutting my entire underbody anyway)
the non-adjustable arms are located forward of the rear crossmember, and i think you have to drop the entire crossmember to slide that long bolt out since it will bump into the fuel tank before it can slide out. Someone challenge me if im wrong or if theres a work-around to this but i dont think there is (I personally didnt care since i was gutting my entire underbody anyway)
I have also heard about dropping the rear cross member. I have never done that but there is a first time for everything.
I'm sure I will pick them up in the future. I just thought I would knock out some of the more labor intensive part of building a decent suspension.
08-29-2009, 02:03 AM
#57
I'm going with the ES bushing kit on my rear links just to save cost, but get rid of those rubber bushings! I'll be ordering my own aluminum bar stock for $9 to fab my rsb link assy with spherical rod ends and all for less the $30...More than likely I'll use a channel bracket instead of Blehmco's angle bracket...it'll be nice!
09-04-2009, 11:56 AM
#58
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Posts: 87
Nice job.
But, I should add that I've been unimpressed with the Tokiko blues in my maxima. At first, they felt like new OEM shock... which is to say, nothing special. After 10k miles they have a noticeably worn out feeling, and afterjust 20k+ miles they are feeling downright sloppy, and in need of replacing again.
In short... they are not much better than OEM / cheap-o shocks, IMO. If I could do it over, I would shell out for the Konis and enjoy much better shock valving from the get-go (better body motion control), and much longer life that Konis offers.
But, I should add that I've been unimpressed with the Tokiko blues in my maxima. At first, they felt like new OEM shock... which is to say, nothing special. After 10k miles they have a noticeably worn out feeling, and afterjust 20k+ miles they are feeling downright sloppy, and in need of replacing again.
In short... they are not much better than OEM / cheap-o shocks, IMO. If I could do it over, I would shell out for the Konis and enjoy much better shock valving from the get-go (better body motion control), and much longer life that Konis offers.
09-04-2009, 03:05 PM
#59
I have the Koni reds and the intrax 1.7 drop and i was just wondering i havnt yet put a camber kit or any other suspension mods other than the drop springs and struts, is it really necessary to get a camber kit or any of the other upgrades like swaybars and new end links/tie rods...my ride feels just fine the way it is and im really not wearing too bad on either the front or the back but i would say i have shown more wear now than before i put them on.... what do u guys think?
09-04-2009, 03:24 PM
#60
I have the Koni reds and the intrax 1.7 drop and i was just wondering i havnt yet put a camber kit or any other suspension mods other than the drop springs and struts, is it really necessary to get a camber kit or any of the other upgrades like swaybars and new end links/tie rods...my ride feels just fine the way it is and im really not wearing too bad on either the front or the back but i would say i have shown more wear now than before i put them on.... what do u guys think?
09-05-2009, 12:18 PM
#61
I have the Koni reds and the intrax 1.7 drop and i was just wondering i havnt yet put a camber kit or any other suspension mods other than the drop springs and struts, is it really necessary to get a camber kit or any of the other upgrades like swaybars and new end links/tie rods...my ride feels just fine the way it is and im really not wearing too bad on either the front or the back but i would say i have shown more wear now than before i put them on.... what do u guys think?
You don't need upgraded sway bars just to drop your car, I am doing it for the performance not because it is necessary to do if you car has been lowered. With the tie rods I just replaced mine because I was already in there and they are non greesable, and they had no greese left in them. So I replaced them with the Moog greeseable ones.
I lowered my second gen which has a very similar suspension set up to the third gen and never got a camber kit. One of my tires popped because it wore though the belt on the inside. So you don't have to have a camber kit...but it may help you out in the long run.
09-07-2009, 12:48 PM
#62
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,284
Great Thread, I was a little confused about doing the rear struts myself, but your pictures will help me out alot when I get ready to replace them! Also I plan to do Kyb struts all around and replace all front and rear sway bar bushings and links. I will do like you are doing and replace my driver side axle since it is leaking grease. Would an ordinary pair of pliers or a large monkey wrench loosen that gland nut on the rear strut?
09-07-2009, 03:35 PM
#63
You don't need upgraded sway bars just to drop your car, I am doing it for the performance not because it is necessary to do if you car has been lowered. With the tie rods I just replaced mine because I was already in there and they are non greesable, and they had no greese left in them. So I replaced them with the Moog greeseable ones.
I lowered my second gen which has a very similar suspension set up to the third gen and never got a camber kit. One of my tires popped because it wore though the belt on the inside. So you don't have to have a camber kit...but it may help you out in the long run.
I lowered my second gen which has a very similar suspension set up to the third gen and never got a camber kit. One of my tires popped because it wore though the belt on the inside. So you don't have to have a camber kit...but it may help you out in the long run.
it's just really unfortuate that the tierod and balljoint on maximas don't attach to the same place like they do on my z.... it's REALLY easy to restore the stock rollcenter on a dropped z31.. just put a spacer between the knuckle arm and strut (spindle attached directly to strut, kinda like the rear suspesion on 3rd gens.. knuckle arm is just a little piece of metal with a machined lip for the strut to fit onto). For a maxima tho, you would have to move the balljoint and tierod end down separately. From what i understand it's not something that the average backyard mechanic can do easily. I know matt relocated his tierods.. but i don't think he ever made a custom control arm to move the balljoint down.
09-08-2009, 07:15 AM
#64
Great Thread, I was a little confused about doing the rear struts myself, but your pictures will help me out alot when I get ready to replace them! Also I plan to do Kyb struts all around and replace all front and rear sway bar bushings and links. I will do like you are doing and replace my driver side axle since it is leaking grease. Would an ordinary pair of pliers or a large monkey wrench loosen that gland nut on the rear strut?
yeah, I don't see why a big monkey wrench would not work. I used Channel Locks, any sort of beefy pipe wrench should work fine.
09-11-2009, 06:43 AM
#65
So my SPC arms came in, and I put them on two nights ago and finished up last night. The car is at the alignment shop right now. Here are a few pics of what I did. I un bolted the rear cross member, and I took the long bolt out that goes though the spindle that holds the lateral links on. This gave me enough flex to remove the upper lateral link bolts with out removing the gas tank.
rear cross member un bolted
bolt coming out below the gas tank.
stock link and SPC link
few pics of the links installed.
rear cross member un bolted
bolt coming out below the gas tank.
stock link and SPC link
few pics of the links installed.
09-11-2009, 06:47 AM
#66
Here are a few pics of the car on the ground. Yes it does appear to sit a little lower in the rear. I will be having the fenders rolled and then I will space the I30 wheels out accordingly.
09-11-2009, 07:20 AM
#67
ooh... moar adjustbility = moar better (if you know what you're doing of course)
had you ever thought about putting a small spacer on top of the rear strut mounts to level the car out? i suppose you'd need a way to put longer studs on it tho wouldn't you, esp if you have a rear tower bar. looking good tho.. hopefully you can get that CHMSL figured out soon so it's totally roadlegal. Not that you would likely get pulled for not having it for a few days, but at least you have a spare (hella nice) car to drive around while you're working on your 3rd gen haha.
had you ever thought about putting a small spacer on top of the rear strut mounts to level the car out? i suppose you'd need a way to put longer studs on it tho wouldn't you, esp if you have a rear tower bar. looking good tho.. hopefully you can get that CHMSL figured out soon so it's totally roadlegal. Not that you would likely get pulled for not having it for a few days, but at least you have a spare (hella nice) car to drive around while you're working on your 3rd gen haha.
09-11-2009, 07:29 AM
#68
ooh... moar adjustbility = moar better (if you know what you're doing of course)
had you ever thought about putting a small spacer on top of the rear strut mounts to level the car out? i suppose you'd need a way to put longer studs on it tho wouldn't you, esp if you have a rear tower bar. looking good tho.. hopefully you can get that CHMSL figured out soon so it's totally roadlegal. Not that you would likely get pulled for not having it for a few days, but at least you have a spare (hella nice) car to drive around while you're working on your 3rd gen haha.
had you ever thought about putting a small spacer on top of the rear strut mounts to level the car out? i suppose you'd need a way to put longer studs on it tho wouldn't you, esp if you have a rear tower bar. looking good tho.. hopefully you can get that CHMSL figured out soon so it's totally roadlegal. Not that you would likely get pulled for not having it for a few days, but at least you have a spare (hella nice) car to drive around while you're working on your 3rd gen haha.
Yes you are right I have extra cars to drive around in. You can see two of them in the pictures. My 95 maxima, my 85 jeep cherokee, and not pictured is the car that you saw at MAXUS, my 98 maxima.
As for putting a spacer on the rear strut assembly I doubt I will do that any time soon, but it may be something I look into in the future. I would like to enjoy the car for a little while rather than work on it all the time.
09-11-2009, 07:43 AM
#69
I guess the CHMSL is the third brake light? Not sure what that stands for but yeah, I want to get that worked out asap, thinking about making a junkyard run this weekend.
Yes you are right I have extra cars to drive around in. You can see two of them in the pictures. My 95 maxima, my 85 jeep cherokee, and not pictured is the car that you saw at MAXUS, my 98 maxima.
As for putting a spacer on the rear strut assembly I doubt I will do that any time soon, but it may be something I look into in the future. I would like to enjoy the car for a little while rather than work on it all the time.
Yes you are right I have extra cars to drive around in. You can see two of them in the pictures. My 95 maxima, my 85 jeep cherokee, and not pictured is the car that you saw at MAXUS, my 98 maxima.
As for putting a spacer on the rear strut assembly I doubt I will do that any time soon, but it may be something I look into in the future. I would like to enjoy the car for a little while rather than work on it all the time.
i know what you mean about just enjoying the car tho. that's sort of the problem i had with the max, was that i couldn't go a month or two of driving it without having to put it on jackstands and drive the oldsmobile. the time just before going to Goon's place is what REALLY killed me, when i was doing my front control arm bushings and swapping to the VE hubs and whatnot, because i kept having issues, meanwhile the olds was taking about $20 worth of ATF per day i was driving it...... on top of the horrible gas mileage it got, on top of trying to buy parts for the max! took 6 weeks just to do the bushings, tierods, wheelbearings, and a VE5 tranny swap cuz i kept running out of money! That's why with my new car i'm just gonna get it good to go for a few months so hopefully i won't have to do anything but change the oil until spring comes.
o i love the sawblade'd rear rotor shrouds btw
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-11-2009 at 11:58 AM.
09-11-2009, 09:08 AM
#70
One question, since i just pick up some used Tokico and going to do the installation later, you i have to get a new grand nut from Tokico since the stock one is not going to fit?, Right? Also where did you buy your dust boots?
Along the Shock and strut, i will be putting on the Blemco parallel links as well, of course pics will come, too.
Along the Shock and strut, i will be putting on the Blemco parallel links as well, of course pics will come, too.
09-11-2009, 09:13 AM
#71
One question, since i just pick up some used Tokico and going to do the installation later, you i have to get a new grand nut from Tokico since the stock one is not going to fit?, Right? Also where did you buy your dust boots?
Along the Shock and strut, i will be putting on the Blemco parallel links as well, of course pics will come, too.
Along the Shock and strut, i will be putting on the Blemco parallel links as well, of course pics will come, too.
09-11-2009, 10:30 AM
#72
I just got the car back from being aligned. They were able to get everything with in spec except for the front caster. That is at 1 degree on the left and 1.7 degrees on the Right. Is this correct?
My other final readings are
Front Camber .2 left and .3 right
Front Toe 1/16" left and right
Rear Camber .5 degree on the right and left
Rear Toe 0
Rear Thrust Angle 0
My other final readings are
Front Camber .2 left and .3 right
Front Toe 1/16" left and right
Rear Camber .5 degree on the right and left
Rear Toe 0
Rear Thrust Angle 0
09-11-2009, 11:00 AM
#73
I just got the car back from being aligned. They were able to get everything with in spec except for the front caster. That is at 1 degree on the left and 1.7 degrees on the Right. Is this correct?
My other final readings are
Front Camber .2 left and .3 right
Front Toe 1/16" left and right
Rear Camber .5 degree on the right and left
Rear Toe 0
Rear Thrust Angle 0
My other final readings are
Front Camber .2 left and .3 right
Front Toe 1/16" left and right
Rear Camber .5 degree on the right and left
Rear Toe 0
Rear Thrust Angle 0
and front caster is supposed to be between 30' and 2*00'.... so 1 and 1.7* is fine. tho you ideally want them to be identical.
09-11-2009, 11:22 AM
#74
09-11-2009, 11:44 AM
#75
for those of you who don't know, more caster = tire leans over more as it turns, to add re-centering stability, as well as to add camber to counteract lateral sidewall forces in aggressive driving.
kinda like this...
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 09-11-2009 at 11:59 AM.
09-24-2009, 08:48 AM
#79
Thanks Albert!
