Suspension Upgrades
08-26-2009, 06:43 AM
#1
Suspension Upgrades
A lot of people have been posting suspension threads and questions lately so I did not want to be left out so here is my thread documenting my suspension upgrades.
here are a bunch of the parts I started out with. ST springs and front and rear sway bars, tokico struts, Blemco rear sway bar end links. Not pictured is a new left side axle, Z31 rear rotors, and moog outter tie rod ends.
I got a full stock set up from a 90 SE in the junk yard so I could swap all of my new stuff onto this and keep the stock set up. This will also allow me to run the Z31 rear rotors.
here is how I did the rears. Compress the springs to take them apart. Then put it in the vise to get the gland nut loose. Then I put the top of the sturt in the vice and banged down on the lower spring pearch with a rubber mallet to get the stock cartridge to come out.
here are a bunch of the parts I started out with. ST springs and front and rear sway bars, tokico struts, Blemco rear sway bar end links. Not pictured is a new left side axle, Z31 rear rotors, and moog outter tie rod ends.
I got a full stock set up from a 90 SE in the junk yard so I could swap all of my new stuff onto this and keep the stock set up. This will also allow me to run the Z31 rear rotors.
here is how I did the rears. Compress the springs to take them apart. Then put it in the vise to get the gland nut loose. Then I put the top of the sturt in the vice and banged down on the lower spring pearch with a rubber mallet to get the stock cartridge to come out.
08-26-2009, 06:50 AM
#2
Then I realized that the stock gland nut would not hold the tokico cartridge in, I even tried taking out the stock seal to see if that would make enough room. (Hopefully I will have the gland nuts soon)
So I moved on to the front. The process was the same for taking told spring off and putting the new one on. I also added new KYB dust boots and bump stops. I did not cut the KYB bump stops (I normally cut the stock ones in half when I lower a vehicle) because they were about half the size of the stock bump stops. I also took the front sway bar off and put the new ST one on. While working on the front I noticed that the axle I just put in a few months ago was throwing grease so I got another one from NAPA, and put that in while I have everything apart. This is also the time that I replaced the outter tie rod ends. Here are a few pics of things going on in the front.
So I moved on to the front. The process was the same for taking told spring off and putting the new one on. I also added new KYB dust boots and bump stops. I did not cut the KYB bump stops (I normally cut the stock ones in half when I lower a vehicle) because they were about half the size of the stock bump stops. I also took the front sway bar off and put the new ST one on. While working on the front I noticed that the axle I just put in a few months ago was throwing grease so I got another one from NAPA, and put that in while I have everything apart. This is also the time that I replaced the outter tie rod ends. Here are a few pics of things going on in the front.
08-26-2009, 06:54 AM
#3
here are a few more pics of work on the front.
I don't really have any questions at this point. If you guys have any questions or comments please feel free. I will post up more on my progress when I get the gland nuts in and can move forward with the rear. Currently the car is lowered in the front. Has a ST front sway bar installed, along with new moog tie rod ends, and a left side axle.
I don't really have any questions at this point. If you guys have any questions or comments please feel free. I will post up more on my progress when I get the gland nuts in and can move forward with the rear. Currently the car is lowered in the front. Has a ST front sway bar installed, along with new moog tie rod ends, and a left side axle.
08-26-2009, 07:31 AM
#4
Great pics documenting the whole process.
Most 3rd gen guys nowadays tend to go with Eibach, Sprint, or Intrax springs, and you rarely see anything on Suspension Technique springs. I've always liked and have been curious about the ST's, what swayed you to choose that setup?
Most 3rd gen guys nowadays tend to go with Eibach, Sprint, or Intrax springs, and you rarely see anything on Suspension Technique springs. I've always liked and have been curious about the ST's, what swayed you to choose that setup?
08-26-2009, 07:41 AM
#5
Great pics documenting the whole process. Most 3rd gen guys nowadays tend to go with Eibach, Sprint, or Intrax springs, and you rarely see anything on Suspension Technique springs. I've always liked and have been curious about the ST's, what swayed you to choose that setup?
Most 3rd gen guys nowadays tend to go with Eibach, Sprint, or Intrax springs, and you rarely see anything on Suspension Technique springs. I've always liked and have been curious about the ST's, what swayed you to choose that setup?
08-26-2009, 11:49 AM
#6
nice work... i expect no less from the best-in-show winner at Maxus.
how close is the tierod end to the swaybar? one of those pics makes it look AWFUL close to the top nut on the endlink.... optical illusion?
how close is the tierod end to the swaybar? one of those pics makes it look AWFUL close to the top nut on the endlink.... optical illusion?
08-26-2009, 12:01 PM
#8
My gland nuts came in today from Tokico, so hopfully tonight I can knock out the back.
08-26-2009, 12:09 PM
#9
Yes I have thought about SFC's and I may do those in the future just not right now. I hope to run this car at Summit Point, WV (semi local) when they do a HPDE (high performance driving event) or at VIR, and knowing me this car will also see the drag strip too.
08-26-2009, 12:17 PM
#10
Great pics documenting the whole process. Most 3rd gen guys nowadays tend to go with Eibach, Sprint, or Intrax springs, and you rarely see anything on Suspension Technique springs. I've always liked and have been curious about the ST's, what swayed you to choose that setup?
Most 3rd gen guys nowadays tend to go with Eibach, Sprint, or Intrax springs, and you rarely see anything on Suspension Technique springs. I've always liked and have been curious about the ST's, what swayed you to choose that setup?
Depending on your wheels & tires you may have to roll the rear fenders...
08-26-2009, 12:39 PM
#11
What is your wheel and tire set up (i.e. sizes)? Are your fenders rolled? I want to space my current wheels out as far as possible with out rolling the fenders in the front. I assume when the front is rolled you loose the fender liner, is this true? I worry about that because my intake is just behind the fender liner. I will have the back rolled that is not a big deal.
08-26-2009, 01:00 PM
#13
99% chance that's what i saw then. it was this pic i was referring to
08-26-2009, 04:05 PM
#15
What is your wheel and tire set up (i.e. sizes)? Are your fenders rolled? I want to space my current wheels out as far as possible with out rolling the fenders in the front. I assume when the front is rolled you loose the fender liner, is this true? I worry about that because my intake is just behind the fender liner. I will have the back rolled that is not a big deal.
08-26-2009, 08:15 PM
#16
Okay I have a question about the Blehmco rear sway bar links. On the part that hangs down from the bracket that you bolt your bushings to. Does that require and nut above the block that the bushings bolt to and one below it? The picture that came with the links look like there is a nut above and below the block, but the set I got only came with one nut/washer/lock washer per hang down side, but the block is threaded. Are you supposed to put one nut above the block to act as a jam nut and just thread the bolt until it is flush the the block on the lower side? I am guessing this does not make since unless you have done this swap so hopefully some one will chime in so I can finish up the rear.
Also one other question about the Blehmco rear links. Do you use the bracket and self tapping screws if you are using the stock bracket that is already on the car? I am guessing you use the "L" bracket and the self tapping screws if you are going to have it welded. Anyone know?
I made good progress tonight but I am not finished. I got both rear struts/springs swapped and started working on the sway bar install but got hung up with the rear links.
Also one other question about the Blehmco rear links. Do you use the bracket and self tapping screws if you are using the stock bracket that is already on the car? I am guessing you use the "L" bracket and the self tapping screws if you are going to have it welded. Anyone know?
I made good progress tonight but I am not finished. I got both rear struts/springs swapped and started working on the sway bar install but got hung up with the rear links.
08-26-2009, 08:18 PM
#17
nice documentation.. i almost forgot what the underbody of these cars look like fully assembled 
did you replace the insulators or the bearings on the struts?
#54320 and 54325 here
are you going to run camber bolts or something of the like up in the front?
did you replace the insulators or the bearings on the struts?
#54320 and 54325 here
are you going to run camber bolts or something of the like up in the front?
08-26-2009, 08:23 PM
#18
Also one other question about the Blehmco rear links. Do you use the bracket and self tapping screws if you are using the stock bracket that is already on the car? I am guessing you use the "L" bracket and the self tapping screws if you are going to have it welded. Anyone know?
*edit* to expand on Maximan's post, you definitely want to run some camber bolts. With the ST's you'll have pretty negative camber. I was kind of skeptical of camber bolts at first but I've been running them for 5+ years now with great success. They're pretty neat little suckers. If I adjust them all the way out I can even get POSITIVE camber on my car and that's slammed with Intrax springs.
Last edited by James92SE; 08-26-2009 at 08:29 PM.
08-26-2009, 09:40 PM
#19
Cardana24,
I chose to go with ST, since they were one of the first companies to offer dropped suspensions for car/trucks since the earlier 70's...Along with them were Addco who offered the largest line of swaybars for vehicles since 1962.
My setup is KYB GR-2's, ST swaybars Front/Rear, and ST lowered springs and It's getting closer to rolling. Mine are metallic grey like yours instead of that vomit green, here's a stance shot:
I chose to go with ST, since they were one of the first companies to offer dropped suspensions for car/trucks since the earlier 70's...Along with them were Addco who offered the largest line of swaybars for vehicles since 1962.
My setup is KYB GR-2's, ST swaybars Front/Rear, and ST lowered springs and It's getting closer to rolling. Mine are metallic grey like yours instead of that vomit green, here's a stance shot:
08-27-2009, 06:10 AM
#22
Yes
Well, you use Matt's angle iron bracket ("L" bracket) in PLACE of the stock bracket. So, if the stock bracket is still on there, you'll want to take it off (shouldn't be much effort), and then put Matt's bracket in its place. I believe he supplies the self-tapping screws for those who can't/don't get it welded. Ideally, you'll want to get it welded. If you don't have a welder, mount them on with the self-tapping screws and then just get a muffler shop to weld them up.
*edit* to expand on Maximan's post, you definitely want to run some camber bolts. With the ST's you'll have pretty negative camber. I was kind of skeptical of camber bolts at first but I've been running them for 5+ years now with great success. They're pretty neat little suckers. If I adjust them all the way out I can even get POSITIVE camber on my car and that's slammed with Intrax springs.
Well, you use Matt's angle iron bracket ("L" bracket) in PLACE of the stock bracket. So, if the stock bracket is still on there, you'll want to take it off (shouldn't be much effort), and then put Matt's bracket in its place. I believe he supplies the self-tapping screws for those who can't/don't get it welded. Ideally, you'll want to get it welded. If you don't have a welder, mount them on with the self-tapping screws and then just get a muffler shop to weld them up.
*edit* to expand on Maximan's post, you definitely want to run some camber bolts. With the ST's you'll have pretty negative camber. I was kind of skeptical of camber bolts at first but I've been running them for 5+ years now with great success. They're pretty neat little suckers. If I adjust them all the way out I can even get POSITIVE camber on my car and that's slammed with Intrax springs.
We really cannot get our camber in spec in the front with out camber bolts?
Cardana24,
I chose to go with ST, since they were one of the first companies to offer dropped suspensions for car/trucks since the earlier 70's...Along with them were Addco who offered the largest line of swaybars for vehicles since 1962.
My setup is KYB GR-2's, ST swaybars Front/Rear, and ST lowered springs and It's getting closer to rolling. Mine are metallic grey like yours instead of that vomit green, here's a stance shot:
I chose to go with ST, since they were one of the first companies to offer dropped suspensions for car/trucks since the earlier 70's...Along with them were Addco who offered the largest line of swaybars for vehicles since 1962.
My setup is KYB GR-2's, ST swaybars Front/Rear, and ST lowered springs and It's getting closer to rolling. Mine are metallic grey like yours instead of that vomit green, here's a stance shot:
Is any one here really running adjustable arms in the rear?
Well get on it.
08-27-2009, 06:12 AM
#23
Also, with the camber bolts, have any of you that have them autocrossed/road raced with them? Usually they are just a skinnier bolt, so I want to make sure strength is not an issue.
08-27-2009, 06:52 AM
#24
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
The Eibach spring set up is 1.2" I'm running B&G springs with a 1.6" drop and the camber bolts and adjustable RCAs were definitely necessary!
08-27-2009, 06:56 AM
#25
Thanks for the info^^
Would this kit cover me?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5_714769162___
It's in stock at my local advanced store. What are the wedges for? I know how the bolts work.
How is everyone else getting by in the rear with out adjustable RCAs?
Would this kit cover me?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5_714769162___
It's in stock at my local advanced store. What are the wedges for? I know how the bolts work.
How is everyone else getting by in the rear with out adjustable RCAs?
08-27-2009, 07:44 AM
#26
Thanks for the info^^
Would this kit cover me?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5_714769162___
It's in stock at my local advanced store. What are the wedges for? I know how the bolts work.
How is everyone else getting by in the rear with out adjustable RCAs?
Would this kit cover me?
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...5_714769162___
It's in stock at my local advanced store. What are the wedges for? I know how the bolts work.
How is everyone else getting by in the rear with out adjustable RCAs?
The adjustable camber bolts have a lobe sort of thing on them, and a washer that you turn to adjust the camber. It's the style I have. Anyway, no, the camber on 3rd gens is non-adjustable so it can't be put in spec at all after a drop without camber bolts or something custom.
08-27-2009, 07:55 AM
#27
Well, those aren't really the "adjustable" camber bolts, but I suppose it has the same purpose. Wedge goes behind the bolt to keep it tight I guess. I mean, if the bolt is skinnier than the hole on the strut, there's nothing to keep it from "sliding" within the hole, so the wedge is jammed in behind the bolt to keep it tight.
The adjustable camber bolts have a lobe sort of thing on them, and a washer that you turn to adjust the camber. It's the style I have. Anyway, no, the camber on 3rd gens is non-adjustable so it can't be put in spec at all after a drop without camber bolts or something custom.
The adjustable camber bolts have a lobe sort of thing on them, and a washer that you turn to adjust the camber. It's the style I have. Anyway, no, the camber on 3rd gens is non-adjustable so it can't be put in spec at all after a drop without camber bolts or something custom.
So you are saying I need adjustable rears too? Where are you guys picking them up?
08-27-2009, 08:34 AM
#29
On the rears you can actually just use stock parts. IIRC one all you need is to gather another set of adjustable parallel links, thus making them adjustable on both sides (I think one per side stock is not adjustable). It's been probably 6+ years since I've messed with them so I don't remember the specifics
*edit* by "side" I mean one side (one of two on each side of each strut) per side of the car, if that makes sense..
*edit* by "side" I mean one side (one of two on each side of each strut) per side of the car, if that makes sense..
Last edited by James92SE; 08-27-2009 at 08:36 AM.
08-27-2009, 08:54 AM
#30
On the rears you can actually just use stock parts. IIRC one all you need is to gather another set of adjustable parallel links, thus making them adjustable on both sides (I think one per side stock is not adjustable). It's been probably 6+ years since I've messed with them so I don't remember the specifics
*edit* by "side" I mean one side (one of two on each side of each strut) per side of the car, if that makes sense..
*edit* by "side" I mean one side (one of two on each side of each strut) per side of the car, if that makes sense..
so I need more parts from the junkyard? I could possibly hit a yard this weekend but I need to know what to get.
08-27-2009, 08:59 AM
#31
08-27-2009, 09:16 AM
#32
okay, so it looks like one parallel link is adjustable on each side and the other one is fixed. So what that is saying is pick up another adjustable link for each side and replace the fixed one?
Also who stocks the energy suspension bushing for the rear links? According to courtsey nissan it is a special order item and it could take up to a month to ship.
08-27-2009, 09:28 AM
#33
Also who stocks the energy suspension bushing for the rear links? According to courtsey nissan it is a special order item and it could take up to a month to ship.
08-27-2009, 11:09 AM
#34
Okay well how about this option. Rather than trying to find a bushing set that will take month for me to get and going to the junk yard to pull parts (gas/time/$) shouldn't I just get these? New parts and they already have poly bushings installed.
What do you guys think?
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Niss...-5806_m-20.htm
here is the SPC kit, even with shipping its under $100
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Camb...-78528_s-0.htm
What do you guys think?
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Niss...-5806_m-20.htm
here is the SPC kit, even with shipping its under $100
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Camb...-78528_s-0.htm
Last edited by cardana24; 08-27-2009 at 12:04 PM.
08-27-2009, 12:53 PM
#35
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 333
Here's a slightly better price (I ordered from these guys)
Front: http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...c590a918731d7a
These bolts don't have a wedge for movement either, it's based on a tab that's on the washer.
Rear: http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_D...d2=67010&cmd3=
Front: http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...c590a918731d7a
These bolts don't have a wedge for movement either, it's based on a tab that's on the washer.
Rear: http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_D...d2=67010&cmd3=
08-27-2009, 01:02 PM
#36
Here's a slightly better price (I ordered from these guys)
Front: http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...c590a918731d7a
These bolts don't have a wedge for movement either, it's based on a tab that's on the washer.
Rear: http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_D...d2=67010&cmd3=
Front: http://www.internetautosupply.com/ca...c590a918731d7a
These bolts don't have a wedge for movement either, it's based on a tab that's on the washer.
Rear: http://www.spcperformance.com/PROD_D...d2=67010&cmd3=
I he is a third gen guy, I did not know that he sold parts like that, I just thought he had stock replacements. Anyway, I have already bought a set of front eibach camber bolts.
*Also I called SPC based on this link you provided. The posted price is per side. I have found the SPC set of both sides for ~120.
Also in the link I posted above, I am not sure sport compact only is still in business. All of the numbers they have on their site do not work.
Last edited by cardana24; 08-27-2009 at 01:20 PM.
08-27-2009, 06:02 PM
#38
Okay well how about this option. Rather than trying to find a bushing set that will take month for me to get and going to the junk yard to pull parts (gas/time/$) shouldn't I just get these? New parts and they already have poly bushings installed.
What do you guys think?
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Niss...-5806_m-20.htm
here is the SPC kit, even with shipping its under $100
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Camb...-78528_s-0.htm
What do you guys think?
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Niss...-5806_m-20.htm
here is the SPC kit, even with shipping its under $100
http://www.sportcompactonly.com/Camb...-78528_s-0.htm
08-27-2009, 10:00 PM
#39
St spring are only a 1.6" drop in the rear and front! I'll see what is gonna be needed for alignment, but so far, I don't see anything obviously misaligned that bad! But that alignment rack is definitely more accurate than my eyes!
08-28-2009, 12:00 AM
#40
Easier said than done. We're doing body work now. And she's got to be painted. So I'll wait until after she's painted to do this. My suspension upgrade will top all. I'm having everything that could be done to a 3rd gen done (including stage 1-3 sbfc). This will be my toy that I will enjoy taking to the track now and then. But as for yours so far so good. Looks nice!
Last edited by maximo018; 08-28-2009 at 12:05 AM.