CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Cont..... The machine shop will remove all you plugs as required and replace all of them after cleaning your galleys and passages. The crankshaft will be lubed immediately to prevent it from corroded the bearing surfaces. Most machine will micro-polish the cranks and resize you rod cap slightly to acqiure the proper tolerence of the rod bearing/journal. Be sure to have your bottom end balance and fitted with ARP rod bolts. The block will be prepped by the machine shop initially... removal of of freeze plugs, fittings, etc...My advice to you would to be when choosing the new freeze plugs go with brass or copper. They tend to last longer the steel freeze with have a tendency of corroding, especially in vehicles that are not maintained properly (cooling system)! I picked up my block and the reason it was so light was because I'd removed all the pistons/rods, crankshaft and marked all that wasn't so the shop would know what went where! Sorry your thread got closed b4 I could put in my 2 cents....

1993-VG30E-GXE

Man the cost of this stuff is getting a little out of control. Most of it is in painting and chemicals - I've already gone through like 10 cans of paint. I wanted to do this overhaul under $1000.00, looks like it's going over.

RE: The valves, do I have to lap them or can I just re-intall them the way they are, just clean them with solvent.

If I'm not paying him to do the balance, that's when I need the plastigauge to test the oil clearance right? Then if off, then it needs to be balanced right? Shoot. It's too late for the freeze plugs, I already bought them and they are steel - I asked him if they had the brass ones for the VG30E and he said no.

I want to pay this guy the BARE minimum. If I can get away with $80.00 cash, then all is good.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like you're doing alot of work but you might wanna not skimp to much on this and that...Why not balance the bottom end? Are you upgrading the rod bolts at all? The valves can be relapped to ensure a really tight seal; but maybe first filling either the combustion chamber with water or filling the intake ports with water, then filling the exhaust ports with water will show any leaks present if water is leaking pass the valves. If you don't see anything I would clean the heads and check thier mating surface for flatness and call it the day! If you disaassemble the valve from the heads you better mark all you stuff to the orriginal location when going back together shims and all! Sounds like you are just reringing and installing new bearings to me!

1993-VG30E-GXE

OK Thanks Cmax - i'll look into the balancing, but after we did the inspections, everything was within OEM spec, so I don't know if grinding the crank is necessary. I'm going to re-use the OEM rod bolts, they look brand new still. I'll get the re-lapping tools just to be safe. I did all the inspections on this engine and everything is still within OEM spec. I did notice something though in the camshaft journals (Inner Diameter), there is some discoloration like brown streaking...but measuring it came out OK. The heads have been taken apart and I have all the valves and springs in their separate bags. The springs all came out perfect with the Spring Pressure Tester tool. Head and block surfaces are within OEM spec, and same with exhaust manifold ports on the heads. Oh this reminds me, I should bring the exhaust manifolds to the shop and get them to machine those surfaces, one side of those is not perfectly flat. Yes, re-ring, bearings, all the other accessories and camshaft & lifters. I'm going to re-use the rocker arms.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

I would highly recommend not ever re-using any rod bolt from any car made since 1972...ARP's are really inexpensive insurance that I would highly recommend you using them...unless your plan on not driving the car and placing it on a static display!

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

The rod bolts have been the failure of a good number of engines on this forum, including mine and two of Jeff's engines. Not replacing the rod bolts is a stupid mistake you'll regret later.

It's one thing to save money on things you don't need. It's another to throw all of it away because you didn't replace the parts you should have and they turned the whole thing into trash.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

isn't part of the reason you don't reuse those bolts b/c they are torque-to-yield or something like that? where you torque then turn an additional specified angle?

1993-VG30E-GXE

Good tip - i'll pick those up. ARP is the brand? Any other suitable brands?

1993-VG30E-GXE

I'm pretty sure they are re-usable, but because they are aged so much is the risk. I don't think they are TTY (stretch) bolts, or the FSM would indicate they have to be replaced.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

i know they are on the VQ35.... i would assume the same of the VG but that is just a guess.

300zmax

FSMs don't tell you everything. the FSM for my 89 mustang does not mention replacing them either but when i worked with an engine builder he said change them even if it will just be a bone stock beater. Best to rip them out replace them with ARP (ARP 202-6003) or equivalent. mine where $60 shipped.

sources: E bay, Summit Racing.

i understand a budget but when it comes to internals don't skimp or you will be picking up you bottom end later.

Off Topic: just one question. do you have a T-Belt and water pump included in that budget?

1993-VG30E-GXE

Hey bud - yes I got the new Mitsuboshi timing belt and water pump as well as most other accessories new like oil pump.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

why not OEM? it's only like $30 from Courtesy

1993-VG30E-GXE

Because I bought it a long time ago before the summer and it was 25 in Canada

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

No they aren't reuseable 1 time torque (torque to yield...correct...straight to trash can). The The VQ35 is a completely different design! The VG has a bolt and nut design with and special head to fit the rod recess....the Vq's are like ARP2000 12 point head bolts which screws into the rod ( like Carillo, Cosworth, etc). Hell I'm ready to change out my 03 Max's rod bolts for that extra insurance once it's ecu is reflashed! Unless you like having stuff fail, I would advise you to never reuse any of today's car rod bolt and sometimes even the head bolts but your head bolts are fine to reuse on the VG!

Matt93SE

iTrader: (44)

You'll be making a big mistake using a cheap aftermarket timing belt. NISMO87SE will attest to that.
his aftermarket belt broke during his break-in run right after he installed a set of JWT cams. ruined the entire engine, including his brand new $800 cams within 15 miles of startup.

spend the extra few bucks and buy quality parts.