When my engine comes out, I'll be replacing the clutch, along with a few other things. I've read some posts about the ACT steet disk, but has anyone tried the 4 or 6 pad race disk. I know the 4 pad is harsher than the 6, but I don't know how they compare to the organic street disk. I may go ahead and order the 6 pad just for the sake of experimentation.

 

I wouldn't recommend it unless you've got a bunch of mods and don't care if your car jerks off the line like a slingshot every time you let out the clutch. the 6 puck is very harsh for street use.

the organic disk (what I have) was borderline annoying for the first 3000 miles, but after about 6k now it's smooting out to a somewhat normal engagement.

 

Well, I've been wanting a pretty stiff clutch since I drove a friend's Integra. The problem is, that car had a fairly worn race clutch installed. I'll be disappointed if the orgranic disk starts feeling like the stock clutch after a couple thousand miles, but I know the 6 pad will be pretty unbearable for a few months also (I'm just hoping that it will feel "semi-stiff" after some time). I do match revs almost exactly on nearly every shift, so clutch engagement isn't too much of a problem there, although starting will be quite a pain. Also, if I do decide to be crazy and just get the 6 pad disk, it sounds like a mod that would benefit from some urethane engine mounts. In that case, does anyone know where I could get some of these?

 

There are no urethane engine mounts - you'll have to pour your own.

And like Matt says (he's actually got the last word on this, but I'll reiterate it), you don't need a race clutch at all unless you're doing hardcore horsepower-adding mods to your car (like NOS maybe?). I believe Matt said the stock clutch and tranny are good for up to 250 (300?) horsepower anyway, so even people with every single bolt-on mod other than nitrous (which really isn't just bolt-on) are fine going OEM, or ACT organic if they race the car occasionally.

 

Also, if you get a race clutch, and don't do anything to beef up your tranny, you have a good chance of doing great harm to the tranny.

FYI

 

if i were to get the same clutch as you, would it be more or less annoying than a very chattery OEM clutch? i mean, i can launch smoothly..from 2000rpm slipping like a mother ..lol i'd prefer to launch from like 1100-1200 on normal starts without chatter or wierd noises

 

How does the organic ACT compare to the OEM clutch. whats the difference in price, engagement, if you guys could write just a basic comparison that'd be very nice of you, i not sure how many miles i got left on mine. thank you

 

I have put 40K on a new oem clutch / pressure plate / flywheel, and 3000mi on an Mod street disk ACT. (So I can comment on both) I had this install ACT install done by a mechanic (my mistake). When it was new, it chattered horribly. Only way to smoothly take off was 2500 rpm or more. Now, 3000+ miles later, the clutch still chatters. It's better than when new, and it improves when warmed up, but it is just plain impossible to have a smooth easy engage at idle, or say 1000-1200 rpm. My flywheel was not machined. Mechanic told me it was OK, but I was not allowed in the shop to see.

The oem clutch had a little chatter when new, a LITTLE, and it was gone by 500 miles. The oem has a longer engage, meaning the clutch will slip over a longer pedal travel. The act travel from free, starting to engage / fully engaged maybe half of what the oem was. It was designed that way.

SO, over Christmas I'll be yanking out the ACT, and I'm going back to an oem.
I drive "normal" 99% of the time, so I am tired of the hassle.

But now the upside. If I put power into the ACT coupled drivetrain, I can spin the tires at any speed, first or second gear by slipping this clutch. It can absorb a huge amount of torque, and grabs like a s.o.b. With power it is smooth as silk. It's just that I can't see myself drive like this in traffic, or worse, in a traffic jam.

If the clutch is in good shape (not ruined by grease or anything), I'll probably put it up for sale. I'll post that once it is out of the car as I don't have a firm date that I can complete this job by.

For the pondering ACT owners-to-be: My story is not how ALL ACT clutches work out. It's MY experience, and my solution is to go back to OEM. Many ACT street discs will be smooth after the 2000 miles break in period. Mine was not, and I don't have the patience to see if by 4K, 6K or even more K miles it MAY get smooth.

If you race one vehicle or an other every other red light, then this is the setup for you. Under race conditions it does what it is supposed to do.

Under regular driving you take your chances.

Good luck,

John

 

My experiences with the ACt have been much better.. I had my flywheel machined and lightened AND had the tranny rebuilt when I pulled it apart... the rebuilt tranny won't make a difference here though..

But I had a small amount of chatter the first couple k miles.. it has almost completely gone away now (about 5-6k miles).

When I said "normal engagement", I didn't mean similar to stock. it's still VERY grabby. my dad refuses to drive the car. I have a friend with a Talon TSi 5 spd that can barely drive the car because the clutch grabs so quickly once you hit the engagement point.

as for "normal", I meant that you can now slip that clutch at a normal 1000-1500rpm and smoothly pull away froma light instead of having to rev to 2000 and slip it a bit, then let off the gas and twp the clutch until everything's at speed, then let go of the pedal and drive away.. (basically it looked like a 16 yr old was driving my car).
The funny thing was no matter how bad it bogged or grabbed, it NEVER died on the street! I've killed the engine backing into parking spaces a few times, but I have yet to stall it on the street.
if you dump it at just over idle, it'll make the car jump like a sumb!tch and the rpm will drop to about 300 and you'll leap off the line.. as long as you keep some gas in it, it'll recover and pull away- it's just not pretty.


but now that I'm getting used to driving this clutch, it's not bad at all. the pedal is VERY VERY firm. (my dad's 63 ford pedal isn't even this hard!). modulation is easy once you figure out where it is, and you can shift like lightning once you get the pedal height set correctly.
(I can shift only by pushing the pedal in 3-4", but it doesn't completely disengage until about 6" down).

 

thats all good stuff, thank you

 

placeracing.com

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Matt93SE
[B]My experiences with the ACt have been much better.. I had my flywheel machined and lightened AND had the tranny rebuilt when I pulled it apart... the rebuilt tranny won't make a difference here though..

I'm with you on this one. I have to be really easy and slow and "ride" the clutch in normal city driving but my launch after the tranny mods and clutch/flywheel/etc. has been great. I recommend it highly to anyone who wants to race thier car but doesn't want to replace oem parts over and over.

 

In this thread you all talk about having the flywheel machined/lightened. Since my clutch just blew i was looking in the archives and saw that most prefered the ACT clutch. If I get this, more than likely I will just go OEM, would I need to machine my flywheel? Isn't the main goal of that to free up some horsepower, but it weakens your A/C and radio?

Thanks.

 

Hey if you remember my post a few weeks ago...I just got the ACT Street disc thrown in early Monday, and the flywheel machined/lightened. I am still in my break in period., which measn tehre is still some chatter and the engage point is something I am still getting used to.

I love it. I can feel a difference...but since I am driving like a granny right now...I'll just have to wait til a few k of miles pass before I can really feel its power. The good thing is that this granny driving can go after 500 miles so...heheeh I can't wait.

My friend's 6 puck vehicle...his act clutch had no break in period...but man is it a ***** to drive on the street ... if you don't catch taht engagement point perfectly...you're gonna get jerked around.

The act clutch...catches very strongly...but so far...I have found it to be so nice...just to have my ve back.

I was driving an older model accord, an altima, and a 2000 Eclipse GT...and man when I came back to my max...its like being in driving heaven. My car is just comfy...quick...not yet smooth...STILL damn nice. Its like driving a new car again.

Still in awe,
H

 

I'm one of the lovers of this clutch....Only after a few calls to the retailer and ACT. I ordered the street clutch from Howard at Nippon Power. I took the car and clutch kit to Green Tree Transmissions in South Jersey,(856) 582-1100. They slapped it in with my new limited slip 5-speed ($600 installed) but the disk was too large, by 40mm. After a few calls to ACT and Nippon we determined that ACT really f&#@ed up. Howard at Nippon shipped me a new disk the next day and Green Tree put it in ($100 because they had to install the 2nd disk).

I got the car back and WOW!! I lit the tires up in 1st, 2nd ,& 3rd! The clutch engaged like a bear and my clutch leg got a great workout. Anyone who was priveleged enough to take Max for a little ride was impressed but b#*%^ed about how hard the pedal feel was. But as you have read, this only lasted for about 3000 miles. Now the clutch engages smoothly and 1st and 2nd burnies are the norm. I drive this setup daily and it is no problem even in traffic.

I highly recomend the street clutch over OEM, but stay away from the 6 pad unless you want that ackin' feelin in your clutch leg and neck. It would be too much hassle unless you are racing or autocrossing often. Stick with the street clutch, but make sure you check your package for the correct parts. I later found out that this wasn't the first time that ACT made a part fart in the factory!

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Matt93SE

as for "normal", I meant that you can now slip that clutch at a normal 1000-1500rpm and smoothly pull away froma light instead of having to rev to 2000 and slip it a bit, then let off the gas and twp the clutch until everything's at speed, then let go of the pedal and drive away.. (basically it looked like a 16 yr old was driving my car).

c'mon goooosh - not all 16 yos drive like bats outta hell....i mean they get their liscense at 16.5 yo and are careful until about 17 - then all hell breaks loose. I mean im 17.5 and am just now starting to cool off so jeess its all about the 17yo's not the 16 yo's ... but hmmm i bet the people on this board are starting to hate me for my random nonesense babbels! what fun.

do have a question though: as a poster on these boards i am assinged a rank....currently im at newbie - whaoo .....who many posts are needed untiul i graduate from newbie status - just curious - thanks - kane.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by KaneTHS

Quote:

Originally posted by Matt93SE

as for "normal", I meant that you can now slip that clutch at a normal 1000-1500rpm and smoothly pull away froma light instead of having to rev to 2000 and slip it a bit, then let off the gas and twp the clutch until everything's at speed, then let go of the pedal and drive away.. (basically it looked like a 16 yr old was driving my car).

c'mon goooosh - not all 16 yos drive like bats outta hell....i mean they get their liscense at 16.5 yo and are careful until about 17 - then all hell breaks loose. I mean im 17.5 and am just now starting to cool off so jeess its all about the 17yo's not the 16 yo's ... but hmmm i bet the people on this board are starting to hate me for my random nonesense babbels! what fun.

do have a question though: as a poster on these boards i am assinged a rank....currently im at newbie - whaoo .....who many posts are needed untiul i graduate from newbie status - just curious - thanks - kane.

You can't graduate from newbie status until you learn how to SEARCH...
and if I had my way NOONE would get thier lisence until they were 18 yrs. old. I like the new programs in effect regarding teenage drivers with teenage passengers, and how you need a 21 year old in the passenger seat if you want to drive with a carload of you teenage buddies. There are a lot of exceptions of course, but most teenagers just aren't responisble enough to handle driving. Before you go biting my head off I want to state again that there ARE exceptions, but not enough to warrant in my mind giving any 16 year old a licence.