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broken crankshaft bearing

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Old 10-13-2010, 09:39 PM
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broken crankshaft bearing

alright need help from the engine experts lol.

so in late May, one day i had a squeaky belt sound. the next day i took it in to a garage and i had a bad crankshaft pulley, got it replaced and it wasnt wobbling anymore.

then, i got a bunch of engine work done this July by a friend and he said it was wobbling, i said i got a new pulley in May. he said he would look into it more when i brought over all the suspension stuff in August.

he looked at it and said everything is tight, and that my crankshaft bearing is gone. is this that hard of a fix? hes trying to find a fix for it now, in moist conditions its not squeaking but constantly theres a sound like if you run your fingers across your keyboard. the sound will **** off after about 3k RPM. engines got 425,000km on it so im just guessing time has caused this right?

Last edited by chrome91; 10-13-2010 at 09:42 PM.
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Old 10-13-2010, 10:35 PM
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If it is a bad crankshaft bearing, it's not too incredibly difficult. I'd rather work on the crank than the camshafts.

*knocks on wood*
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:29 AM
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you're sure it's not a broken crank snout?

the crankshaft bearing doesn't exactly get "broken"...it's usually worn out...unless you blew a hole in the side of your block.

Last edited by DanNY; 10-14-2010 at 06:32 AM.
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:58 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
you're sure it's not a broken crank snout?

the crankshaft bearing doesn't exactly get "broken"...it's usually worn out...unless you blew a hole in the side of your block.
this...

I'm betting on a bent crank snout, thus the wobbling...probably not long til it snaps off...
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
the crankshaft bearing doesn't exactly get "broken"...it's usually worn out...unless you blew a hole in the side of your block.
he for sure said it was the bearing but maybe he said worn out and not broken lol
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
he for sure said it was the bearing but maybe he said worn out and not broken lol
unless you ran your motor dry or you had a oil pump issue these motors usually don't wear out the crank bearing.

what these motors are prone to do is break crank snouts...but your guy knows better than me i guess.
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:35 AM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
unless you ran your motor dry or you had a oil pump issue these motors usually don't wear out the crank bearing.

what these motors are prone to do is break crank snouts...but your guy knows better than me i guess.
i'll ask him again what it is maybe, because the engine has always been babied
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
i'll ask him again what it is maybe, because the engine has always been babied
FYI when the crank snout bends that's due to someone gunning the he11 out of the crank bolt or hammering the crank pulley off the engine.

good idea to start saving up for another motor now...you might need it.
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
i'll ask him again what it is maybe, because the engine has always been babied
A simple over tightened accessory belt or timing belt can cause the snout to break off on the VG engine..has nothing to do with being babied...
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:47 AM
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Chrome.. Why don't you do/investigate any of this stuff yourself? You're always talking about this mechanic
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by Greeny
A simple over tightened accessory belt or timing belt can cause the snout to break off on the VG engine..has nothing to do with being babied...
really? yikes, didnt know its that simple

anywho i'll just garage it for a bit until i figure things out, its either i fix this engine and boost it or just grab a Z31 VG30ET. i can walk to work and such but i might have to grab a 2nd car sooner than i thought

its pretty much wobbling like this

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Old 10-14-2010, 08:04 AM
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Originally Posted by James92SE
Chrome.. Why don't you do/investigate any of this stuff yourself? You're always talking about this mechanic
i'm a noob lol, im scared of taking it apart and screwing something up myself from not knowing and such. thats why i want to boost it myself, just need to learn how to do it myself
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
i'm a noob lol, im scared of taking it apart and screwing something up myself from not knowing and such. thats why i want to boost it myself, just need to learn how to do it myself
(soapbox time)
to be honest...if you're having doubts on changing a crank pulley yourself then you might not want to boost your own car.

no one online can teach you how to turbo your car. it's all learn as you go. that usually means more $ that's needed to learn what you need to do.

you know how many mandrel bends i had to toss to get a working set up? how many late nights welding and at the same time trying to hone in on my welding skills. then learn about turbo and what's ideal. looking at what OEM turbo set up looks like. let's not forget about the plumbing and adopting all that to a motor that wasn't really set up to have a turbo in it. you'll get to learn every aspect of thread pitch, bolt length, flares, etc that you wish you just paid someone to do.

this is all before you even turn the key on the motor.

for a lot of you guys this is a car that's either handed down or you bought for very cheap. this might be your 1st car and you might have some attachment to it but don't come on here to claim that you're going to do XYZ when you don't even know how to do the simple things (not saying just you chrome). if you done your own timing belt and the car didn't go boom then you're on a good start. if you haven't done that then don't even dream of building your own custom turbo kit. this hobby requires dedication and some aptitude on how to turn a wrench w/o stripping a bolt and a ton of time and money. if you're lacking on any of these then you're setting yourself up for failure.

(soapbox off)
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Old 10-14-2010, 10:16 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
i'm a noob lol, im scared of taking it apart and screwing something up myself from not knowing and such. thats why i want to boost it myself, just need to learn how to do it myself
But you'll always be a n00b if you don't get in there and give it a shot. You'll find that the vast majority of stuff you pay a mechanic for is really pretty simple and then you'll be irritated that you blew all that money all these years on things you could easily do yourself.

Worst case you get stuck and then still need to pay a/the mechanic, ya know? Just my $.02
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Old 10-14-2010, 11:28 AM
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Hopefully it's not the snout but if it looks like the video then it's probably the snout. DanNY, it had 2 be said, good suggestions.

Last edited by shiloh51933; 10-14-2010 at 11:55 AM.
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Old 10-14-2010, 12:50 PM
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That many miles/km, just replace the engine. I honestly feel the most helpful feedback to you is to really just part out/junk the car. Cut losses.
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Old 10-14-2010, 01:37 PM
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IS that "hissing" sound comes with the wobbling?
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Old 10-14-2010, 06:18 PM
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no it sounds like a rubbing, before you could only faintly hear it every 2 seconds on idle but within the last week its gotten constantly loud but its got the same amount of wobbling

someone i know is coming over to see it and check out if its the snout, if its truly the snout and you think its time to give up i may just see it crushed because i would never want to see it parted out, i would just take out the Sparco's and stuff and see it crushed and move onto a Skyline GTS-T or a Cressida or something.
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
no it sounds like a rubbing, before you could only faintly hear it every 2 seconds on idle but within the last week its gotten constantly loud but its got the same amount of wobbling

someone i know is coming over to see it and check out if its the snout, if its truly the snout and you think its time to give up i may just see it crushed because i would never want to see it parted out, i would just take out the Sparco's and stuff and see it crushed and move onto a Skyline GTS-T or a Cressida or something.
Why would you rather have it crushed over being parted out? If you don't mine me asking.
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Old 10-14-2010, 07:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Stepien
Why would you rather have it crushed over being parted out? If you don't mine me asking.
it would just mean more to me to see it all go at once

who knows though it might be something simple and maybe not the snout

EDIT- NVM i talked to my parents and if its the snout i can park it at their other house and just by something else for the meantime then figure things out

Last edited by chrome91; 10-14-2010 at 07:45 PM.
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Old 10-14-2010, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DanNY
(soapbox time)
to be honest...if you're having doubts on changing a crank pulley yourself then you might not want to boost your own car.

no one online can teach you how to turbo your car. it's all learn as you go. that usually means more $ that's needed to learn what you need to do.

you know how many mandrel bends i had to toss to get a working set up? how many late nights welding and at the same time trying to hone in on my welding skills. then learn about turbo and what's ideal. looking at what OEM turbo set up looks like. let's not forget about the plumbing and adopting all that to a motor that wasn't really set up to have a turbo in it. you'll get to learn every aspect of thread pitch, bolt length, flares, etc that you wish you just paid someone to do.

this is all before you even turn the key on the motor.

for a lot of you guys this is a car that's either handed down or you bought for very cheap. this might be your 1st car and you might have some attachment to it but don't come on here to claim that you're going to do XYZ when you don't even know how to do the simple things (not saying just you chrome). if you done your own timing belt and the car didn't go boom then you're on a good start. if you haven't done that then don't even dream of building your own custom turbo kit. this hobby requires dedication and some aptitude on how to turn a wrench w/o stripping a bolt and a ton of time and money. if you're lacking on any of these then you're setting yourself up for failure.

(soapbox off)
i understand lol, you know far more than me and if you think its not a good idea i'll believe you. all i need is to take everything apart and get stuck and have half a car sitting in the garage

for starters my uncle came over to show me his RX8 and took a look and he knows some people who rebuild engines so i'll call around Monday and see how that goes
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Old 10-14-2010, 09:59 PM
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That's a possible crankshaft kit if there's damage too the mains or rods...GL, you'll be pulling the motor!
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by CMax03
That's a possible crankshaft kit if there's damage too the mains or rods...GL, you'll be pulling the motor!
yeah i was going to get it rebuilt but i was told just get a new engine, i guess the crankshaft is for sure kaput and its less headache to get a new low mileage engine

i guess it'll be going in next week, i need it back fast now so a garage i know will give me a deal and source a low mileage engine. im just disappointed that the timing belt and all the other stuff was done to my current engine just a few months ago and now this happens
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Old 10-15-2010, 12:42 PM
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That stuff can easily be swapped over to the new engine. You'd want to do that to the new engine being installed anyway. Imagine how much easier it is to do that with both engines out! And on the replacement engine, go ahead and replace the front/rear seals as well as cam seals just to be safe. Ohm injectors on new engine....if any need replacing...just swap over your entire fuel rail. Easy stuff.
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Old 10-15-2010, 01:06 PM
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Sorry bout the bad news but look at this as an opportunity to really hook up a good engine and install it into your Max, imagine the possibilities.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
That stuff can easily be swapped over to the new engine. You'd want to do that to the new engine being installed anyway. Imagine how much easier it is to do that with both engines out! And on the replacement engine, go ahead and replace the front/rear seals as well as cam seals just to be safe. Ohm injectors on new engine....if any need replacing...just swap over your entire fuel rail. Easy stuff.
looks like the new engine comes with everything new already except for the waterpump, i can use my current waterpump right? because its only a couple months old

lol the original engine has 425k on it, i cant blame it for anything. its the first problem the engine has ever given me
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:47 PM
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Water pump easily swapped. Naturally inspect the belt and tensioner pulley.
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Old 10-15-2010, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Chris Gregg
Water pump easily swapped. Naturally inspect the belt and tensioner pulley.

is it worth even keeping those? when they were getting swapped it was 40c in the July heat in rushhour going to Napa to get them, so if theyre still good i want them
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Old 10-15-2010, 09:37 PM
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If you have "new" parts, then yes, I think it's worth it. The timing belt I personally go either way. On one hand, if you have a new one....I'd tend to swap it over unless I knew the one on the replacement engine is better. On the other hand, a new belt from Nissan costs $25. So, if I ever have a question, I spend the $25....that's also why I have two belts on my shelf that have less than 5k miles on them.
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Old 10-15-2010, 10:20 PM
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ah i see

can you ask for parts off the old engine or do they need them for cores because of the new engine or something?
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Old 10-16-2010, 07:33 AM
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I've never had to return an engine as a "core." You'd have to check on their policies.
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Old 10-16-2010, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by chrome91
ah i see

can you ask for parts off the old engine or do they need them for cores because of the new engine or something?
You're buying a NEW engine for a nearly 20 year old DD?

Cores are required for rebuilding. Heads, cranks, blocks, waterpumps. Anything else goes in the trash.

Last edited by SteveB123; 10-16-2010 at 08:16 AM.
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Old 10-16-2010, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by SteveB123
You're buying a NEW engine for a nearly 20 year old DD?

Cores are required for rebuilding. Heads, cranks, blocks, waterpumps. Anything else goes in the trash.
sorry meant new as in new to the car lol, the new VG will most likely have around 150,000km on it
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Old 10-18-2010, 01:30 PM
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engines still good, AC belt was having problems which is why it was horrendously rattling. the crankshaft pulley still has a wobble but they said its fine for quite a while so hopefully when the time comes i can drop in a new engine myself
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