petere

Hey all.... recently... my car has been a pain to drive...
for a while now... i have expirienced loss of RPMS when the car gets to 2500 and above.. up hill or when i force the gas.. the RPMS will jump .. car doesnt really get effected. and from there on .. the gears started getting hard to switch into. now the latest is i got in to my car ( 91 Maxima SE ) last night ...
and press the clutch .. and my foot dropped ! .. i had to pump the clutch so i can even be able to barely put it in first gear and go from there.. clearly its bad.. what could be the problem .. oil ? pressure ? or just the clutch is gone?

Let me know if you have any insight because.. if the clutch is gone .. i might need to part ways with the car ((

Thanks all !!!

elusivemax93

Either master clutch cylinder or clutch slave cylinder. Had the same happen to me before. Either item is inexpensive at autozone and limited lifetime warranty

petere

Are the clutch cylinder or the clutch slave cylinder hard to replace ?
Is it something that i can do myself ? or i will need to go to a mechanic ??

It seems like as im reading some of the posts around here.. that those 2 are the usual suspects of the cause for the clutch not to engage. if anyone has a simple write-up link let me know it will be very helpfull and i will try to do it myself as it seems not to be that hard .

THANK YOu !

Obsession_92-94

Dumb question, but why would you have to part company with the car over a bad clutch?

petere

no dumb questions

but for a 91 with 200k miles on .. sometimes is better to stop putting money into the car, because it really is going to be a waste dont get me wrong i love my maxima ... i would hate to have to part ways with it ... but if i have to spent 500 to fix it.. id rather not because its just probably worth about that much anyway !

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

You don't need a write up to change them...all you need is common sense. A little girl could do it and they are cheap. Or I'll pay you 200 for the car, fix it for 50 and sell it for a 1000.

BenStoked

iTrader: (7)

200k? lol
I wish mine had 200k on the clock. 263k, and still climbing, and that number is weak in comparison to the high mileage club.
yeah, I'll lowball augustus, and offer $225, and literally have my niece fix it.

edit: here's your writeup, the entire clutch section from the FSM.
http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/maxima/1994/cl.pdf
two bolts, and a hydraulic line on each of the master and slave cylinders. also includes adjustment and bleeding procedures.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

shh... don't let anyone else hear you say that. But yes you could do it yourself. I'm currently in the same boat as you, but I'm replacing everything. Under the dash there is a pin that connects the master cyl to the clutch pedal. Rermove it. Undo the 2 nuts on the master cyl that connect it to the firewall and wiggle to remove. MAKE SURE THAT ALL FLUID IS DRAINED BEFORE STARTING REMOVAL PROCESS. Unscrew clutch line from master cyl and remove master cyl all together. I would bypass that distibution block and screw the clutch line directly into that clutch hose. (which also needs to be disconnected from another line on the other end of the block.) Makes it easier to bleed after reinstalling new hardware. Remove the bolt the connects the clutch hose to the slave cyl. Keep up with it. (its a spclty item) To remove the slave there are two bolts fastening it to the bellhousing of the tranny. Remove the 2 bolts and there you have your slave cyl & master cyl removed and ready to replace. Once you do it then you'll realize how easy it is.

elusivemax93

Don't remove the connector block there was a purpose for Nissan to put it there don't listen to others saying remove it. Im replacing all the clutch system from master to slave with all new lines and parts inline with the beginning and end of the clutch.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

No don't remove it. I just have my clutch going straight from the master cyl to the slave cyl. instead of from the master cyl to the block then to the slave cyl. Makes bleeding the clutch a whole lot easier. I believe its other purpose is for the brake booster. Not 100% on that. James 92SE has it done ask him.

petere

Thank You ALL for the helpful information .. saved me alot of time and troubles.

I got down to it and with your help was able to navigate through and get it going .. i am going to replace both pieces now. i have everything apart and have drained the fluid too. so tomorrow will put everything back together.

Thank you again !

3rdGenMaxima91

Did doing this fix your problem, please tell me or email me at (jonshivprashad@yahoo.com) thank you. My clutch only works like an 2 inches off the floor, like if i have to move up in 1st gear to park, I have to keep pumping the gas!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

either you have air in your lines or you need to adjust at the pedal.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

It's there for bleeding purposes...I think I should remove mine when I swap the gearbox.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

I've removed that block and jumble of extra lines on all my VEs. That block is nothing but a total PITA for bleeding purposes (and actually makes it more difficult to bleed, if anything) and also some BS about pedal feel.

Slave cylinder, to s/s line, to steel hard line, to master cylinder all the way baby!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I want to get one of those ss slave cyl lines. I got a brand new OEM line. I guess when it goes I'll replace it with one.