I was browsing through parts diagrams of VG30Es at Courtesy and I noticed that for the Quest, the oil filter is mounted right on the oil pump below the alternator.

I dunno about you guys but I hate the way the oil filter is set up on the Max cause the oil spills on the tranny everytime I remove the filter during an oil change and I hate to clean it up. So I'm thinking that on my spare VG engine I might relocate the oil filter, which would make the oil change a lot quicker.

But I have two concerns about it. One is that how low will it be hanging that it may hit the ground at dips or bumps. The other is will it clear the alternator and compressor.

Has anyone done or even thought about this? I'm gonna keep gathering info on this to see if it's worth doing.

 

Just get yourself a oil cooler kit it also allows you to relocate your oil filter and some kits give you the option for dual filtration

 

What he said, but that may be overkill for what you're doing.

screw-on filter relocation kits are pretty cheap online and you can use that to simply move the filter to some place easier to get to. The addition of a few lengths of hose won't hurt the cooling either.

 

I have mine mounted straight to the side of the block. I used the stud off the Pathfinder. The stud is 15280a. Easy to put on. I use it just because it clears my headers I have.
http://www.courtesyparts.com/pathfin...5574_5589.html

 

Do you have any pics of yours?

 

Great feedback. Perma-cool offers some great stuff at low costs for either oil cooling or filter relocation.

On my turbo, I actually relocated my oil filter to beside the fuel filter up top on the fire wall. I just had to fab up a custom bracket to support it. But, also as mentioned, you could just remove the stock oil filter housing and install a 300z oil filter stud (or as mentioned, a Pathfinder one), and then just mount your oil pressure sensor to the port on the block. Before installing my oil cooler on my turbo, I originally just had it mounted to the block.......Oil filter will look something like this:



Sorry, I could not immediately find images of the filter on the fire wall. If you want, I can get take some and post them later.

 

Should have known such kits existed I took about an hour looking and couldn't find one for the Maxima (or even the VG engine in general). So I'm guessing a universal kit should work? Example:

http://www.perma-cool.com/Catalog/Cat_page27.html

Now I have two options to look at. My goal is to make the oil change as quick and easy as possible and since I use an auto lift to work on my car, it would be better having the filter as close to the drain plug.

I'm wondering for those that deleted the bracket and mount the filter straight to the block. Is there enough room to take it out with the exhaust manifold in the way? I'm thinking Chris has a custom manifold since he has a turbo, but what about stock?

 

should've got a VE. Naw im just jk, but yeah go with the universal kit.

 

yeah, the universal kit should work good.
... but i don't understand why you are having a problem. when I do a change, I crack it, it slowly drains, and I go do something else for a while. when I come back, the filter is empty, I finish unscrewing and pull it out.
only time I get oil everywhere is when I drop the wrench in the catch pan.... (I do that too often...)

 

Actually, you're right...I am using the 300z manifold which does not drop down into the exhuast on that side...it runs around the back of the engine into a crossover pipe overtop the transmission/bellhousing. So, there is a question about clearance with the stock exhuast which drops down into the rear portion of the Y-pipe.

However, I understood you were looking at oil filter relocation? Although, specifically pertaining to the Quest oil pump question you posed.....I don't know if anyone has done that and I don't see any benifit to the move. I believe the VG blocks flow oil very well. Though, I would compare pressure/flow between pumps, although I assume they are close. Not certain how Quest is set up, but I'm familiar with the pump you mention.....I just don't see it fitting in there and still allowing the alternator to bolt up properly. But, perhaps it's as simple as getting the Quest alternator bracket and belt?

Personally, not sure I'd be willing to go into all that unless I had to and it was time to do timing belt and water pump....because you know you're going to have to pull all that...plus drop the Y-pipe in order to remove the oil pan.

 

Actually, pulling it up from www.courtesyparts.com it looks like it would be a simple swap out. The oil pan looks the same except for a port on the front for "oil level sensor." I bet the oil pump and filter would swap right in there.

I still stand by looking into pump pressure/flow. You might not think there is no difference....

 

I'm guessing you have a manual trans and generally they are smaller than an auto so it might not affect them. But for an auto, when I unscrew the filter, the oil will fall on top of the cover where the governor used to be on the trans, creating a mess on the trans.



Took this photo awhile ago but as you can see it's wet there due to the oil spill. So yeah, I want to relocate the filter so I don't have take care of that spill every time I do a change.

I was thinking about this also. But I remember someone posted that "a VG is a VG is a VG" (think the wookie said that). Then again I've read that the Quest VG is a non-interference so there are chances that Nissan could have made changes to the oil flow.

As on changing the oil pump, I'm going to do this on a spare engine I got laying around when the time comes that I need to swap the VG that is currently in my Max. One cylinder already has low compression so that time may be soon.

So it may look like that it would be better just getting the kit. But the experimental part of me is saying to do the oil pump swap

 

Saying that a VG is a VG is a VG is a tad bit oversimplistic. True for most topics, but not completely in the details given through their history have had many basic changes which some need to consider when doing certain modifications.

Some examples of a VG NOT being a VG.....blah blah......The VG30ET (300z turbo) had different exhuast manifolds, intake manifold, pistons, rings, crank pulley, and cams. One of the Nissan vehicles (truck or Pathfinder IIRC) had a different water pump...different offset.

More specific to the VG BLOCK specifically....the older "A" blocks for the VG had a shorter crank using a single woodruff key while the newer "W" or "modified" VG blocks had a longer crank snout and used two woodruff keys. In about 1992, they also changed timing sprocket and cam sprockets from the square tooth to the round tooth, moving from a 60k mile timing belt to a 100k mile belt. Even the VG for the 2nd gen 300z is a bit different is that it allows for an idler pulley for the timing belts at the top of the block, between the cams (DOHC) which is not present on other VG blocks. And yes, the different engines did come with different oil pumps. Whether the differences are significant for you is questionable, but they are different. IIRC there are at least 3 versions just for the 300z....they consisted of the original pump when they released the cars, I believe they put the same pump in both normally aspirated and turbo. Then they changed the pumps, putting a slightly different version in the NA and a higher pressure/flow pump in the turbo model.

Yeah, just get the kit.

 

Easy solution to spilling oil from oil filter, I wrap 2 plastic grocery bags around the filter after I crack it with the wrench and then unscrew by hand with plastic bags all the way around the filter. I also tie the bags off at the top, cause if a lot of oil spills in the bags the weight of the oil can cause it to spill out of bag by the opening. Moving it to the bottom is cool though, my Volvo 850 is set up like that from the factory, it's a little bit higher than oil pan but makes it real easy. Now my 93' Sentra, that OF is a Bytch!!

 

I I ordered my stud of courtesyparts.com Not sure about stock manis mine are custom

 

i used to put my long neck funnel under it,until someone borrowed it
the short funnel i have works as well and the skinny part goes between the
y pipe and shift rod m\t and i think shifter cable on a\t

 

I got a hold of a 97 Quest FSM and took a look at the lubrication section to compare with the Max. The oil flow is the same. However, on the pressure check the values are different.

Oil pressure for the Max
Idle: More than 9 PSI
3200 RPM: 53-65 PSI

Oil pressure for the Quest:
Idle: More than 17 PSI
3200 RPM: 57-70 PSI

So it seems that the Quest oil pump does gives more pressure than the Maxima oil pump. Would the Quest oil pump do damage to the Maxima engine?

 

I'd say no. Heads and hydrolic lifters (as best I know) are the same. I have some guesses as to why they installed a higher effecient oil pump in the van, but it's speculative and it just sounded stupid....so I deleted it. I'm not a good Nissan Engineer mind reader, so.....let's just leave it at the Quest pump is an upgrade!

 

I think I should add something in regards to reading the oil pressure. Both FSMs say to check the pressure from where the oil pressure switch is located. The pressure switch for the Quest is located somewhere else.



Would that make a difference of a reading compared to getting a reading on the Max?

Chris, I'd like to hear your "stupid" input though. I've been looking for some info in regards to oil pressure and would like to get as much info as possible.

Since you have considered it as an upgrade, if the swap can be done, would you consider swapping it too since you have a turbo? (EDIT: just read that high oil pressure may not be good for some turbos)

When I have the chance, I'm gonna go to the pick-a-part and look for the oil filter housing from a Quest.

 

I was always under the impression that the rating on the oil pump was about the specifications of the pump rather than what a tech should read in terms of oil pressure when it is installed on the vehicle.

Although it does make since that there would be a different reading, assuming two pumps being the same but tested at different points on the block, I'm not certain that there would be 8-12 pounds of difference found. I may be wrong on that, as most of you may know....larger passages will increase flow but decrease pressure versus smaller passages will increase pressure but decrease flow (perhaps over simplified, but enough for what we are discussing here I think).

My thoughts on why a more efficient pump on the van? Larger, heavier vehicle = more strain on engine and at lower rpm's so increased pressure would improve lubrication of crank while ensuring proper presurization of lifters and lubrication of cams, etc. Also, in a tighter engine bay, engine is prone and subjected to greater heat.....increased oil flow would help protect the oil from the heat during normal operation. Again, assumptions, I made that clear in the beginning!

No I'd not swap it into my car only because I have a brand new pump already. Got enough to do on this thing already!

 

If you want to run the vg33 pump you have to run vg33 crank and pulley also. Half way down the page shows the differences.
http://www.nissanoffroad.net/message...?topic=7354.15

 

Good stuff.

 

I luv that VG filter being in the rear where it is....It never a real big mess !

 

i havent changed mine yet but looking at it makes me happy its easy to get too but i am wondering would it help that after some of the oil has drained from the oil pan into the drain pain that we put a hole in the filter to maybe let air in it to drain thru the engine?? i was thinking too if you are pretty quick you may be able to get the filter off and up right with out losing much if any oil? and i just thought what if you just dropped it into a waiting drain pan under the car when you get off the mounting base?
i am going to be changing mine soon and i know this has been asked before what Filter is recommended? i was thinking Purolator maybe? i see a Fram is on there now

 

I really like that filter location since it makes it super easy for reaching the filter....I drain my pan first and lay down a couple of rags and there's really no be mess to clean up! The oil filter adapter has 2 allen head fittings and is pretty much ready for a couple of fittings , some hoses, thermostat and oil cooler and it's a done deal...check out perma-cool they've got everything!

 

I am having a problem getting the oil filter stud out of the block so i can switch it to the direct to block mount. I have a vg30e long block out of a 91 maxima that I am installing in my 95 pathfinder. I have already swapped nearly everything else and this seems to be my biggest hang up so far.