Mass Airflow Sensor re-wire
11-08-2000, 04:32 PM
#1
Guest
Posts: n/a
What is up with the Mass Airflow rewire? What does it do? I have heard people talking about doing it....can you do it for a GXE? I thought there was a link somewhere that told about it and gave details on how to do it....if anyone can help me that would be great!
11-08-2000, 09:11 PM
#2
I've done the rewire but don't quite understand why the wires are done the way they are. There is the initial bundle wrapped in rubber, open it and there are three wires and another bundle, open it and there are two wires wrapped in another bare wire like the ground on an RCA wire. I just ran new wire for all and sealed up the bare wire as best I could and it works fine. I can only assume the wire is bare for some sort of sheilding.
Though, some will say this isn't necessary to rewire and relocate the sensor, it depends on what you want to do. To keep the sensor where it is demands that you run more pipe to the wheel well. I, on the other hand, would like to see the sensor moved and the pipe run from the manifold, accross the front of the battery, and then down behind the headlight and behind the front bumper. There would be hardly any bends and I think thus increase air velocity into the engine. Opinions?
Though, some will say this isn't necessary to rewire and relocate the sensor, it depends on what you want to do. To keep the sensor where it is demands that you run more pipe to the wheel well. I, on the other hand, would like to see the sensor moved and the pipe run from the manifold, accross the front of the battery, and then down behind the headlight and behind the front bumper. There would be hardly any bends and I think thus increase air velocity into the engine. Opinions?
11-09-2000, 11:09 AM
#3
Supporting Maxima.org Member
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 611
Mass Airflow Sensor re-wire
Hey Gregg, I'm interested in your suggestion. I hope to get my PR CAI soon and wonder if your option (moving the position of the induction tube) could work with it, or is it strictly for a custom CAI?
11-09-2000, 02:01 PM
#5
The earlier suggestion of buying a tube from JC Whitney is of no help for me. I want to run mine in front of the battery instead of around behind it. In doing so, the Whitney pipe would be a pain to cut in order to obtain the anlges I need to get up and over the relay box in front of the battery and down the hole I cut behind the headlight bracket. I looked just yesterday and I am really considering buying either galvanized or stainless steel flex tube that they use for exhaust pipes on the big trucks! Three feet of 3" diameter should be more than enough. The inside isn't "smooth" but should only affect the air flow and velocity as much as multiple bends in the stock much less adding to the stock and making it longer by running it from the stock position to the wheel well. I think my way is shorter, should help air velocity and the metal is thick so heat isn't that big of a deal and the stainless wouldn't have to be painted or anything and wouldn't rust for a long time ($8.50 a foot though). I've ran longer wires already to the MAS sensor even though my setup is still stock untill I get the pipe. I need to sauder them, right now they are only wire nutted because I wanted to make sure about the reason for the odd wiring first before making it permenant. No one has told me anything on the reason for the wiring, one bundle looks like a set of RCA wires. But, it's working fine, so moving it shouldn't be an issue, only making sure the connections are saudered and done right,This sensor is major!
11-09-2000, 02:09 PM
#6
being the MAF is pretty sensitive would extending the wires cause any drop in voltage reading? IE incorrect reading
Dan
Dan
Originally posted by Chris Gregg
The earlier suggestion of buying a tube from JC Whitney is of no help for me. I want to run mine in front of the battery instead of around behind it. In doing so, the Whitney pipe would be a pain to cut in order to obtain the anlges I need to get up and over the relay box in front of the battery and down the hole I cut behind the headlight bracket. I looked just yesterday and I am really considering buying either galvanized or stainless steel flex tube that they use for exhaust pipes on the big trucks! Three feet of 3" diameter should be more than enough. The inside isn't "smooth" but should only affect the air flow and velocity as much as multiple bends in the stock much less adding to the stock and making it longer by running it from the stock position to the wheel well. I think my way is shorter, should help air velocity and the metal is thick so heat isn't that big of a deal and the stainless wouldn't have to be painted or anything and wouldn't rust for a long time ($8.50 a foot though). I've ran longer wires already to the MAS sensor even though my setup is still stock untill I get the pipe. I need to sauder them, right now they are only wire nutted because I wanted to make sure about the reason for the odd wiring first before making it permenant. No one has told me anything on the reason for the wiring, one bundle looks like a set of RCA wires. But, it's working fine, so moving it shouldn't be an issue, only making sure the connections are saudered and done right,This sensor is major!
The earlier suggestion of buying a tube from JC Whitney is of no help for me. I want to run mine in front of the battery instead of around behind it. In doing so, the Whitney pipe would be a pain to cut in order to obtain the anlges I need to get up and over the relay box in front of the battery and down the hole I cut behind the headlight bracket. I looked just yesterday and I am really considering buying either galvanized or stainless steel flex tube that they use for exhaust pipes on the big trucks! Three feet of 3" diameter should be more than enough. The inside isn't "smooth" but should only affect the air flow and velocity as much as multiple bends in the stock much less adding to the stock and making it longer by running it from the stock position to the wheel well. I think my way is shorter, should help air velocity and the metal is thick so heat isn't that big of a deal and the stainless wouldn't have to be painted or anything and wouldn't rust for a long time ($8.50 a foot though). I've ran longer wires already to the MAS sensor even though my setup is still stock untill I get the pipe. I need to sauder them, right now they are only wire nutted because I wanted to make sure about the reason for the odd wiring first before making it permenant. No one has told me anything on the reason for the wiring, one bundle looks like a set of RCA wires. But, it's working fine, so moving it shouldn't be an issue, only making sure the connections are saudered and done right,This sensor is major!
11-09-2000, 02:16 PM
#7
I want to know the same answeres. Logically, yes! But, without knowing why the wires are run like they are, it is hard to determine what the true effect will be. It is simple to go ahead and even if running extended wires, to take a group of bar wires, sauder them and then run them around the other two wires like the oem, they would just be saudered at two points. If this harness ever broke, how would it be fixed? Answere: the same way, sauder the wire and run them oem style. That will probably be the way I end up doing it. But, think about it though, Let's say there is a drop in voltage in the wire....what does that mean? It means that the ecu will read little air movement (increased heat = decrease in voltage, this is how the sensor works!). In reading a decrease in air, the ecu will compensate.
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