maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Ok I give. I took the spark plugs out which broke freely too easily (Obviously didn't torque enough). #1 piston was clean as hell as if had never fired. The rest had burnt oily residue on them except #4 who was just dry and sooty. I think thats how its suppose to be. Besides soot there is some type light mist (spit if you will) out the exhaust now. Has the light smell of gas but I don't believe its gas. I hear a tapping when I can get it running from the rear head at cyl 5. Pulled the plug and she died. So theres spark there and number 3. Going to work now. Will have to try other 4 later. I'M ABOUT READY TO JUST GET ANOTHER DAMN MOTOR!!!

oh yeah p.s. my 02 3.5 is dead b/c of a head gaskets. $1400 So you c why I'm pissed with 2 non running cars and a crap load of errands I have to run on top of 2 jobs all week.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Leave the plugs out and perform a compression check @ WOT!!!! There shouldn't be any oily plugs! Are you sure it's oil? Wish I was there to help you Chris.....but I'm not off till 4/5/11 dental appointment!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Well with some added info from Cmax about installing my injector o-rings I think (just maybe) I have one of the main culprits. Won't know until I get off and remove upper plenum and extract fuel rail from lower plenum all while it is still connectect to see if my injectors are leaking. (Brand new injectors and o-rings) But when installing I didn't lube them with anything. I just installed all six dry. They are either ripped or not seated properly. We shall see...

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Well its time to blow some dust off this thread with some update. I changed the o-rings (wrong ones) which flooded the motor. Corrected my mistake and drained 1/2 a tank "thats right" out of the top end. Replaced the starter last night and took her out for test roll. I found out I don't have 2nd gear (got a spare trans for that), my intake leak I fixed already 1500-1400 idle (vac leak), keeps putting out white smoke after 2 hour warm up (head gaskets are new and followed fsm thoroughly when installing), and it smelled like an old truck at 1st then a lawn mower my friend said after warming up. Vid 1 is it still warming up but after a while everything in the engine bay smooths out. Vid 2 is my friend driving and me recording. Oh and I have to figure out whats up with the power steering.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AyYt6Ji9hJ4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xSo0F-BltYQ
All this at 3AM. yay zzzz....
I just need help obviously.

Brad92SE

iTrader: (9)

When you installed the timing chain, did you make sure that the gold (or silver maybe) links were lined up with the dots on the cam & crank sprokets? Did you also install new tensioners? It's hard to tell in the video, but it sounds like something is off, and not just a random coil or injector malfunctioning, as those will typically just result in a miss or a constant rough idle. A single cylinder not firing will make it sound like a Subaru w/ exhaust

Is the car idling at 1400-1500rpm? As for the smoke... I dunno, like I said in the PM, check your coolant for oil and vice-versa, and check the coolant level as well to see if it's low.

Did you end up taking it to the dealer?

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Did you use new headbolts? And you're sure the head wasn't/isn't warped? Sure the mating surfaces of the head(s) and block were thoroughly cleaned off all debris?

If all of these are yes:

The smoke may not be a big deal. It could just be a **** ton of coolant burning off. I've heard of HG jobs taking a hundred miles of driving to burn off all the coolant/smoke.

I know coolant can sometimes get absorbed in the cat and take forever to burn off. I've read stories of HG replacements where coolant got absorbed into the cat. and even muffler and cause endless smoke until it's all burned off.

The car doesn't overheat does it?

Other than the engine sounding odd, how does it drive? The exhaust note doesn't sound terribly "off" or abnormal to me. Sounds pretty consistent with many VE's with slight misses (common) and no muffler. The engine noise is somewhat alarming. Unfortunately I still think something might be off internally like Brad said.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That looked like the normal water vapor to me, that didn't look like smoke....It disappears! Smoke (oil related) doesn't disappear! Warm it and drive it for a hour or so then look at your exhaust....I would be more concerned about the rattling noise that engine is making....loose timing chain??????

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

It wasn't until after I sealed up the bottom end (chain cover) that I realized that the links weren't lined up. But I realized that the links were all the same. I went off the sprocket dots being in the position they were suppose to be as the fsm directed me. (if that makes sense) Where the link dots were didn't matter as much as the sprockets being where they were supposed to be is what I figured. Yes all brand new tensioners from Courtesy. (I had done some research on common issues with these cars during my rebuild and took action on those as needed. Reason why in the beginning I didn't ask many questions b/c others would and they would get answered.) I won't be with the car until tomorrow evening after 5. (work). And no I haven't taken it to the dealer. Second guessing them. I work at GM dealership and most "techs" these days only go off what the computer tells them. Someone that would still know this motor & accurate diagnosis (no guessing bs) around there is slim. The rpms were fluctuating between 1500 & 1400 because of vac leak.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Well I remember a while back someone ask a question on whether to reuse the original bolts or get new ones. I sat quietly and waited for answers since I had the same question. Everyone said it was alright to reuse them so I did. I did bother me that these generally stretch though. Starting to regret it now. Everyone kept hailing how the rod bolts are to be replace but head bolts should be good. Some mentioned they've even done it. Heads were warped but resurfaced by Millers Machine Shop. One had to be really resurfaced so much that I had to use a shim (I believe right head). Paranoia caused me to clean the mating surfaces several times. and no the car doesn't over heat. As I mentioned before this had to be the longest shes ever run since I rebuilt her.(2hours) After 30 mins most of all that noise dissipates and she sounds normal. Once warmed up and everything under the hood went normal I was able to relax a bit. Besides not having second gear, vac leak (which I've taken care of now) and no pwr steering she drove fine.

These were with my phone. The next runs are with my camera for better quality.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I was tripping hard that it was the chain and grieving over going back in there for that along with damage it may have caused. But after warm up it went away and never came back. If you remember we turn the car off for about 30-40 mins while talking to u. Then restarted her and noise didn't return. Plus it was loudest at cyl 3. If it were valves they would have kept clattering even while we drove around. As for water vapors I might have to go with you on that. I notice the spot where she was sitting there was a big wet spot on the asphalt where the suppose smoke was. But when he stopped to go in reverse it would put out a cloud. (Usually when not in motion).

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Run it for a awhile (1 hour) and see if it is still smoking/vapors

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Will do.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

That's driving it not @ idle to dry the system out thoroughly! If your smoking then you'll really find out. Remember smoke doesn't disappear like steam, which ever car produces in the warming up process for about 10-20min after startup depending on outside temperture!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

kool. I'll try that. I really need to get my muffler put on next week.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Use a U-clamp for now....I'm sorry, Ii forgot how the tubing was cut!

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

To keep everyone on the same page I found another running motor out of a wrecked car. Gonna try and pull it thurs morning. I'll swap over all my tensioners, VTCs, fuel rail w/injectors, etc. I'll deal with my motor later when I build patience back up for it. Time is short and she needs to go to the body shop (waiting on her). All that and I'm itching like a crack head to drive her. Will keep everyone updated with some pics (everyone loves including me) along the way.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

By the way sorry to here about your wheels James. Y they would steal only 2 stock 15s your guess is as good as mine.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

I suggest you just swap it over and fix the one you're pulling out. If you wanna play with it, do the seals and such. Then break the f@cked up one down and build it proper. That's what I would do, especially if I was in a hurry. Ef the idealistic stuff and get the car rolling.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Thats pretty much along the lines of what I'm gonna do.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Alright Augustus. I finally pulled & received my spare VE today. I've already removed its A/C compressor & bracket, alternator, EGR, spark plugs (replaced with new NGKs), accessory pulleys, and started to remove crank pulley. Man I'm TIRED!!! I still have to pull mine out which is ready and swap trans and everything from my motor over to this one. After that Finally install. This was to answer your question you had a while back about what happen to me doing an engine swap.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Alright its time for an update. I got the other motor installed and hooked up. Also took care of the lil shifter issue I was having. Now the motor won't start like it should. I saw the motor run before I bought it. Beside the block & heads and his fuel rail with injectors I swapped over the rest of my stuff (motor was from an Auto). I retarded the cps so much I had to take the bolts out. Not til after a bit of struggling did it start. Wouldn't stay running unless my friend kept pumping the gas. Once he stopped it died out. Its getting gas and spark, but I am using his fuel rail with his injectors. Any suggestions I'm open to because I'm out of scenarios.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Here is some entertainment for all yall.


http://s122.photobucket.com/albums/o...=Video0004.mp4

torqueymonster

iTrader: (3)

not found...

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

what do u mean not found? I was able to play it.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

anyways one of the mechanics here at work gave me a can of BG Throttle body & Intake cleaner to test with. Ima try that. Everyone is thinking its my timing but I never touched it. In order to for it to have some sign of life I have to retard the hell out of the timing and pump the gas. Even then it still won't stay on and idle.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

So you pulled this current engine right out from a running car.. Right? What all exactly did you swap over and/or change to this current engine before putting it in your car?

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

I swapped:
1.VTCs
2.Tensioners
3.Water pump
4.Crank Pulley (A.S.P.)
5.Pwr Steering Pump
6.A/C Compressor
7.Alternator
8.Both Idle Pulleys
9.Exhaust manifolds
10.Valve Covers
11.PCV
12.Thermostat & piping
13.VTC sensors
14.CTS
15.Pwr Transistor
16.Fly Wheel, Clutch with Pilot bushing
17.Engine mounts
18.Knock Sensor
19.Intake manifold (upper & lower plenum with NWP spacers)
20.TB with TPS
21.Spark Plug with Coil Packs
22.New Front & Rear Main Seals
All From my motor. Everything was all brand new.
The only thing of his that I'm still using besides the engine block and heads is the the fuel rail with injectors. It ran fine before on his stuff.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Logically, if his engine ran fine before, and you swapped over the tensioners and VTC's, then the timing chain has to be off a tooth or two/installed improperly.

That's the only thing that would explain it a) not starting when you know the engine is good and b) it only starting with the CPS turned beyond its normal operating range.

I didn't realize you were going to do all this to the swapped over motor? I thought you were going to stick in the motor as is just to get it running.

I know this is the last thing you want to hear but at this point it seems like the timing chain has been installed improperly both times and that it was the issue all along and history unfortunately repeated itself the second time as well. :/

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

LMAO! OHhhhhh... I dreaded this is the back of my mind. Now I gotta figure out if its tooth forward or a tooth backwards. Its gonna be a pain in the a$$ but Ima do this while its in the car. I guess Ima have to go off the FSM procedure on installing those upper chains.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...help-guys.html

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

I suggested to you to put this engine in as it was then fix the first one...so basically YOU DID IT AGAIN...oh well at least you're having fun my friend.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

All the fun in the world. Hah! His VTCs were way out of hand for me. I couldn't deal with. I'll rebuild them later but I at least needed to swap them. He tried telling me the noise was from the belt not being on the A/C compressor all the way (car was in front end collision). As he revved the motor the clacking increased. I said to myself, "That isn't that belt. I know what that is." But to avoid arguing with him I just went along with what he said.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Might as well pull it out and make super sure you got it right before you put it back in. Look at it as a learning experience.

hondah8tr

I own a 3rd Gen Maxima, and had the typical VTC issue, or at least I assumed. When The VTC was bypassed the engine knock vanished. Took car to shop to do engine swap. Got 45K engine direct from japan. Engine knocked. Got Nissan engine control and code reader attached and no codes, and when disabling VTC engine still knocked. Yanked engine and bought Re-maned engine with NEW VTC's installed. Engine runs great, no codes but continues to knock. This knock only occurs when engine has been run and allowed to cool for a couple of hours. Noise disappears after a engine comes up in temp. On early morning cold start engine knocks for 30-40 secs then disappears. Knock sensor was replaced as well. Any ideas on where to go from hear. Love my 3rd Gen, but seriously annoyed by the knocking.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

hondah8tr

Nissan did the work on the second engine. It is under warranty but they say they cant find anything wrong with it. So until it breaks they can't fix it. Ridiculous if you ask me. But this is why I am asking for help here....maybe someone actually knows something, unlike the dealership.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

When I cold start mine it clacks until I tap the gas, also the VE30de likes the oil level to be at H on the dipstick. Oil pressure flaw in the design? Next time just give it a quick rev to send some oil to the VTCs.

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Setting the timing back to spec today and then "The Great Re-Assembly".

maximo018

iTrader: (6)

Hey James and Cmax at least I can swap out timing covers for my original that doesn't have that hole in it.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Hope you triple checked the timing B4 closing it up!!!!

You should've done this originally or not touched anything at all.....just installed motor and cranked!