Replace Manifold(s)? . . .or OBX headers?
07-13-2011, 12:43 PM
#41
Header studs broke! Time to replace studs/headers!
Okay this is great!! I found a thread directly related to issue I'm having with my 3G Max. My exhaust manifold studs broke(one on each mani closest to the tranny. My main issue really is deciding what headers to get to replace the factory manifolds with. Since I'm going to have to remove the headers anyway I figure why not just replace them I was considering a set of OBX's but I heard some have fitment issues with them. The OBX header look good, there T304 stainless steel and basically factory width. I'm not looking for wider headers, I'm looking for durable stainless steel header that won't be too much louder than stock. Then there Pace Setters, I heard there pretty good but kinda loud. I see that Custom Maxima has headers for our generation but heard nothing about them. I'm not looking to get oem or oem style unless there stainless steel. I'd appreciate your opinions and experiences with mentioned headers or unmentioned headers. I hope my post was written properly and not confusing. If I left out any needed info then please ask, thanks.
07-14-2011, 07:47 AM
#42
Obviously nobody has read my post yet but that's okay. I know this thread is a little old but I don't wanna get burned for starting a new thread of same topic. I have plenty of things to get to on my poor Maxima...she's been getting very little attention lately. I have 2 other cars to maintain and in the meantime I have boxes full of new parts for my 3G. Today I'm gonna install the new control arms with new ball joints, links,tie rod ends, bushings, ect.. I can't do anything with the broken mani studs until I get all the parts I'm gonna need. I'm aiming at the OBX's since the price is decent for Stainless Steel but I wanted some opinions. Anyway I gotta start getting into gear before it gets too late.
07-14-2011, 06:03 PM
#43
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Columbia SC
Posts: 2,292
Why does it suck? What do you really want to do? My headers cost me about $250-$275 and the minor modding I did to it was simple and effective....I added a flex section, welded up the big exhaust leak between the merge, tossed all those spring loaded bolts and went with shorter SS bolts @ the 2 header collector ball and socket joints that require no gaskets nor do they move now! There were so many haters on these Headers I just had to see where the faults were and I eliminated all the weak points and enjoyed myself stepping into these throttle and feeling the super responsive VG set me back in my seat!!!!!
I wouldnt mind an exhaust upgrade, and I love the way the vg sounds because mine is so quiet sometimes that I forget that its still running. But Id love to be thrown back into my seat also lol! But I just dont want the car to be sounding really loud, like those guys do to their honda civics or accords, now thats annoying!
07-14-2011, 06:37 PM
#44
supposedly, OBX and PaceSetter have fitment issues (I have yet to see where the fitment problems are).
Cmax pointed out some areas that need correction, which requires welding.
I'm not a welder (can barely strike an arc, much less make a bead), but my cousin can. He informed me that stainless is more difficult to weld properly than a regular steel. not sure how accurate that is, but I would recommend checking around, finding out how much it would cost to add the flex section to a stainless downpipe if you decide to go that route.
Cmax pointed out some areas that need correction, which requires welding.
I'm not a welder (can barely strike an arc, much less make a bead), but my cousin can. He informed me that stainless is more difficult to weld properly than a regular steel. not sure how accurate that is, but I would recommend checking around, finding out how much it would cost to add the flex section to a stainless downpipe if you decide to go that route.
07-14-2011, 06:46 PM
#45
He informed me that stainless is more difficult to weld properly than a regular steel. not sure how accurate that is, but I would recommend checking around, finding out how much it would cost to add the flex section to a stainless downpipe if you decide to go that route.
The only difference I've noticed is that it seems to create just a bit more 'splatter' but then again the s/s might just make the 'splatter' more noticeable since it's shiny.
Of course, just mig welding it with argon/c02 doesn't give you the full S/S benefits (i.e., your weld is susceptible to rust), but nonetheless it is rather easily weldable
07-14-2011, 10:58 PM
#46
Yes, just to clear any misconceptions my car before the timing belt situation was running an Oem Catback except for my resonator I had a 18" Cherry bomb glasspack installed....My car was nearly non audible while running....especially if it was idling in the driveway your wouldn't hear a thing! Even during accelerating it was super quiet until about 1/3 -1/2 throttle and you would hear my intake roar! The pacesetter worked great for me and Breath somuch better than those Oem logs manifolds and their reverse flow!
07-15-2011, 08:59 AM
#50
Yes, just to clear any misconceptions my car before the timing belt situation was running an Oem Catback except for my resonator I had a 18" Cherry bomb glasspack installed....My car was nearly non audible while running....especially if it was idling in the driveway your wouldn't hear a thing! Even during accelerating it was super quiet until about 1/3 -1/2 throttle and you would hear my intake roar! The pacesetter worked great for me and Breath somuch better than those Oem logs manifolds and their reverse flow!
Last edited by shiloh51933; 08-09-2011 at 08:32 AM.
07-16-2011, 01:47 AM
#51
The OBX maybe more up your route of what you're looking for....Since they're Stainless Steel.....But the Mods I performed on the Pacesetters should apply to the OBX design as well and were simple I'll shoot you some pics.....
Last edited by CMax03; 07-16-2011 at 11:51 AM.
07-16-2011, 11:42 AM
#52
Here are some pics as to what I've done too make the Pacesetters work:
I added the necessary rear flex section (this a pre-welding pic)!
Welding all the way around the Merge and two secordaries seals off the exhaust leak:
Also relocated the O2 sensor bung and added a wideband O2 bung!
Here are the Ceramic coated manifolds:
The small flex wasn't necessary, it just allows a little movement when bolting up the Ypipe to the header collectors which designed with spring loaded bolts to allow some movement! Well I trashed that setup and installed shorter bolts for a solid Ball/socket joint and the good thing is a gasket is never needed and it's a leakproof joint....I did grind the rear flanges down some in the rear to clear the steering rack and also wrapped the rack with exhaust wrap so no metal-to-metal contact is heard....and filled my motor mounts to avoid any excessive movement of the engine which moves away from the rack when accelerating in forward gears and moves toward the rack only in reverse! I got Vibrant turbo inner lined flex sections that will last forever and you should be able to fit a 12" section with no problem! I using an 8" flex section
I added the necessary rear flex section (this a pre-welding pic)!
Welding all the way around the Merge and two secordaries seals off the exhaust leak:
Also relocated the O2 sensor bung and added a wideband O2 bung!
Here are the Ceramic coated manifolds:
The small flex wasn't necessary, it just allows a little movement when bolting up the Ypipe to the header collectors which designed with spring loaded bolts to allow some movement! Well I trashed that setup and installed shorter bolts for a solid Ball/socket joint and the good thing is a gasket is never needed and it's a leakproof joint....I did grind the rear flanges down some in the rear to clear the steering rack and also wrapped the rack with exhaust wrap so no metal-to-metal contact is heard....and filled my motor mounts to avoid any excessive movement of the engine which moves away from the rack when accelerating in forward gears and moves toward the rack only in reverse! I got Vibrant turbo inner lined flex sections that will last forever and you should be able to fit a 12" section with no problem! I using an 8" flex section
Last edited by CMax03; 07-16-2011 at 11:49 AM.
07-16-2011, 12:42 PM
#53
I'm not an OBX fan but this header they make for the VG 3rd gen's LOOKS really nice and again the mods I made should apply to this as well. I sure this doesn't leak between the secondary runners @ the merge, but they copied those Pacesetters to the T......Like most Chinese Mfg do!
http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...ANIFOLD/Detail
http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...ANIFOLD/Detail
07-16-2011, 02:19 PM
#54
I'm not an OBX fan but this header they make for the VG 3rd gen's LOOKS really nice and again the mods I made should apply to this as well. I sure this doesn't leak between the secondary runners @ the merge, but they copied those Pacesetters to the T......Like most Chinese Mfg do!
http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...ANIFOLD/Detail
http://www.racingpartdepot.com/servl...ANIFOLD/Detail
07-16-2011, 02:49 PM
#55
You purchase the OBX cheaper than the Pacesetter plus the OBX are SS and my Pacesetters are Ceramic coated mild steel (header manifolds only) you can do all the modifying yourself! You can Cut and a shop spread/expand the piping the fit everything together using U clamps and transport it to a damn good welder and you're done....Very easy especially if the Maxima is not your DD! I might purchase the OBX because it's SS and Modify it to with larger 12" flex section.... and of course cutting that 3rd ball/socket joint out and replacing it with an expanded fitted pipe.... $199 ain't **** I can burp/fart that out! The Pacesetters were about $250 IIRC...GL, pm me or post any question you have!
07-16-2011, 09:24 PM
#56
You purchase the OBX cheaper than the Pacesetter plus the OBX are SS and my Pacesetters are Ceramic coated mild steel (header manifolds only) you can do all the modifying yourself! You can Cut and a shop spread/expand the piping the fit everything together using U clamps and transport it to a damn good welder and you're done....Very easy especially if the Maxima is not your DD! I might purchase the OBX because it's SS and Modify it to with larger 12" flex section.... and of course cutting that 3rd ball/socket joint out and replacing it with an expanded fitted pipe.... $199 ain't **** I can burp/fart that out! The Pacesetters were about $250 IIRC...GL, pm me or post any question you have!
We bought a set of $200 Chinese eBay LS1 headers for our LS1/RX7 project.
Since we had to cut them up and re-route half of the runners anyway we saw no point in paying 5x the price for the "real" headers. So we bought the fake Chinese eBay ones and never looked back.
Even without us hacking half of it up and re-doing alot of it, seeing as they're exact clones of the "real" ones, I wouldn't have hesitated to bolt them on a Camaro/Firebird if we owned one. Even though they're "fake", the quality was surprisingly good.
07-17-2011, 04:53 AM
#57
I would be all over those Chinese knock-offs for $199 if I owned a VG.
We bought a set of $200 Chinese eBay LS1 headers for our LS1/RX7 project.
Since we had to cut them up and re-route half of the runners anyway we saw no point in paying 5x the price for the "real" headers. So we bought the fake Chinese eBay ones and never looked back.
Yeah I'm ordering something today.
Even without us hacking half of it up and re-do
ing alot of it, seeing as they're exact clones of the "real" ones, I wouldn't have hesitated to bolt them on a Camaro/Firebird if we owned one. Even though they're "fake", the quality was. surprisingly good.
We bought a set of $200 Chinese eBay LS1 headers for our LS1/RX7 project.
Since we had to cut them up and re-route half of the runners anyway we saw no point in paying 5x the price for the "real" headers. So we bought the fake Chinese eBay ones and never looked back.
Yeah I'm ordering something today.
Even without us hacking half of it up and re-do
ing alot of it, seeing as they're exact clones of the "real" ones, I wouldn't have hesitated to bolt them on a Camaro/Firebird if we owned one. Even though they're "fake", the quality was. surprisingly good.
07-17-2011, 07:05 AM
#58
Boy OBX copied that entire Pacesetter setup to the "T"...Those copy cat Chinese thieves even copy poor designs.....I adding a flex section and welded between the merge since that was the infamous exhaust leaking source....I special ordered mine to have only the manifolds ceramic coated (Armour Coated) since I was gonna make some Fab changes to thier design....
07-17-2011, 12:47 PM
#60
The main reason I'm trying to get a direct fit with no mods is so I can do this thang in my driveway. I really don't like paying anybody to touch my ride or any parts I'm putting in her. And yeah that block CMax03 has in his pic is sweet.
07-17-2011, 01:37 PM
#61
07-17-2011, 04:53 PM
#62
07-18-2011, 05:29 AM
#63
When I can't do it myself I usually go to one of three people(older brother, father, father in-law), all of them are real automotive mechanics. The tool thing happens more than the other but when it's something I can't do like that header welding then yes I'll go to somebody. Only problem is none of these people I trust live near me and then I have to travel for an hour. I might have maybe 1 guy that I'd trust to do this. You don't make many contacts when your use to doing things yourself all the time. My father inlaw use to come around alot but not anymore, he came in handy as a Jack of All trades. Doesn't Warpspeed still make headers for 3G's?
07-18-2011, 06:03 AM
#64
When I can't do it myself I usually go to one of three people(older brother, father, father in-law), all of them are real automotive mechanics. The tool thing happens more than the other but when it's something I can't do like that header welding then yes I'll go to somebody. Only problem is none of these people I trust live near me and then I have to travel for an hour. I might have maybe 1 guy that I'd trust to do this. You don't make many contacts when your use to doing things yourself all the time. My father inlaw use to come around alot but not anymore, he came in handy as a Jack of All trades. Doesn't Warpspeed still make headers for 3G's?
07-18-2011, 01:21 PM
#67
You don't know where there a welding business or machine shop? Honestly all you need is a hacksaw, drill with a unibit and some basic hand tools.....I don't have a welding machine YET,.... but I fitted everything and secured the assembly with U-clamps and carried the ypipe to a muffler shop and let them weld my ypipe assembly for $20....Don't be scared just do it.....it'll work out!
07-19-2011, 11:42 AM
#69
There much bigger. Regardless of the fact that there a bit bigger I should still be able to make them work. I'm guessing courtesy nissan should have them ready to order. I'm getting ready to order some parts for my Max and then looking at stuff for my Volvo,Honda. Good Look with the info Augustus.
Last edited by shiloh51933; 07-19-2011 at 03:01 PM.
07-30-2011, 06:21 AM
#71
Well I finally realized why the 2 mani studs broke along with 3 rubber hangers now. My front motor mount is shot....I just ffff'n replaced the motor mount 6 months ago!! I didn't have time to wait to order a motor mount from courtesy Nissan, so I got one at Autozone. Big FFF'N mistake!! Atleast it has a lifetime warranty and they said bring in and they'll replace with new. That's great but what's gonna happen with this motor mount. All the other mounts are good including the one by the tranny.
08-01-2011, 06:06 AM
#72
I'm still waiting on the OBX headers to come by mail or fedex or whatever they shipped threw. I'm having so many problems with her right now...it sucks. She's never run this badly. I had to remove the 6 month old front motor mount to exchange it and install it again. I replaced the LCA/w bushings, lower ball joints, sway links, tie rod ends and tie rods to rack. She handles good now but when coming to complete stop or hard stop I'm getting some kinda crunching noise up front. I literally just replaced the front brakes with ceramic pads, new shims, rotors and the rears are good. I thought the crunching was due to the front motor mount but I'm still hearing it slightly. What do any of you guys think? Maybe something in the strut? I have new front strut mounts and springs but haven't been able to install cause of all the other problems. I work 7 days a week and have been putting in all the hours i can on her. I want to keep her but she's really costing me now. I've spent thousands on her and it has been worth the money up to this point. i can't afford the lift time to diagnose the issue. Any suggestions?
08-02-2011, 08:00 AM
#74
Yeah that's what I first thought , it checks out with my buddy who is licensed. I'm not officially an automotive pro yet(enrolled in SCCC Auto Program) and have over 15 years experience unlicensed. Maybe the bushing on the driver side LCA is defective. I say defective cause the passenger side has same parts but good results. I replaced everything down there but it's not Nissan stuff. I think I'm gonna just take it all apart and put in Nissan bushings. Thanks Ben.
08-18-2011, 06:38 AM
#75
The story just keeps on getting better every fuuckin' day!! I get the OBX headers yesterday from UPS and discovered that my stainless steel resonator pipe has separated at the seam. I bought the catback from custom maxima exactly a year and a week ago. I contacted them yesterday and was told of course that after a year the warranty is done. After explaining that it wasn't actually installed till more than a month later and that this car is not my daily driver the rep said he'd speak to his superior's again. I'm waiting for a call back today from CM and hopefully they'll replace the pipe. It figure's, I got the headers and the new muffler is on it's way. I was thinking about those exhaust pipe some members on here bought, I think it was MES. I just want to get my Max back.
08-18-2011, 11:58 AM
#76
I wouldn't hold my breath on that call. Can it be welded? If so take it to a muffler shop and have them weld it back together. Custom Maxima is not what it use to be. Quality and customer service seem to have gone out the door. The whole thing seems kind of cheesy since it was brought back.
09-04-2011, 06:38 AM
#80
Looks like I can salvage the resonator/b-pipe. I got the Megan Dual Tip muffler last week(official dual exiting tips), 2.5" inlet/3"outlet. I just spent a bunch of money on school books and tires/ES sway bushings front/back for my Lude. I should be able to buy some lift time to do up my Max finally. I can't wait to get her finished already. I also got all new mani studs from Nissan.