I have a broken stud and it make my car sound like a tractor. . . there is video of the sound im talking about. . .

VIDEO HERE: http://youtu.be/q0mYVVmCbSs

PROBLEM: 1992 MAXIMA GXE VG30E 3.0 SOHC V6. That's what I told the lady at the parts store and she looks in the computer and ask if I had two exhaust manifolds so I said umm. yes I believe so. Even in my Haynes Repair Manual it says "MANIFOLDS". . . funny thing is no part store seems to have the one thats for the front of the engine all im seeing is "rear right" and thats not what im looking for. Im looking to replace both manifolds.

QUESTION(s): Is the manifold in the front called something else? or Is it two exhaust manifolds? If so where can I get the front?




The red arrow is the one thats broken off this is also the manifold im talking about. (this is not a pic of my car)


or should I just replace everything with these. OBX headers . . .

 

Circled hooks up to front exhaust manifold.

 

i think he's talking about the random bracket on the collector.
i'ma say stock photo.
and if you're worried about the manifold being warped, just get it planed flat. it'll be cheaper than a new mani, anyway.

 

The studs break and usually get stuck to the head. Yes, you have two exhaust manifolds. One in the front, and one in the rear. That is why the y-pipe has two mounting points; it connects to each manifold.

For the broken stud, repair usually goes as follows: remove the exhaust manifold and pray no more studs break, tap into the broken stud and pray you can get it out, throw the old studs away and get new exhaust studs from a 300ZX TT. Then you install the new studs and your exhaust manifold and pray non of the studs in the rear break.

 

The best thing is to replace them with new OEM studs which have been upgrade in grade strength so enlarging the bolt size can be eliminated, cause you'll be pull the heads for that operation which entail drilling the heads and manifolds and tapping the heads......that's nearly impossible on the car.....!!!!!

 

By the way, those OBX headers have always had fitment issues. Plus, replacing the headers won't fix the leak if there's a broken stud on the head.

 

i have an extra front manifold. pm me if you want it. i'm pretty sure the studs and whatnot are still intact where the ypipe joins on, but can check this weekend to be sure. or if your only problem is studs then you might not need it.

 

I was on the same boat when I found a crack on the front manifold and wanted to get a new one. Couldn't find an aftermarket one so I had no choice but to get it plus the studs and nuts from Courtesy. $270 total.

And I thought headers are long gone for our cars. Would be nice if new ones are still floating around.

 

Hah!!! The OBXs look like the Pacesetters (same design).

 

http://www.courtesyparts.com/ has the replacement exhaust mani for $245... not bad? And does anyone on here have headers? Its seems to me like 1 or 2 people on here bought a set of headers and said bad things about them now everybody says the same thing... Is there any Video or photo proof of them not fitting right?

There is only one stud that is broken its on the front manifold right side bottom. u still can see some of it inside the manifold its not broken flush with the block. is that a good thing?

 

Do the broken studs make the car loose power or something? Was just wondering cuz i think I have a broken stud somewhere, sounds like near the rear manifold, as the car has a pretty noticeable tick to it now lol.

 

i believe it will burn out the valve...and/or decrease your power slightly.

 

exhaust leaks in general will cause power loss, the bigger the leak/closer it is to the engine, the more power loss....

 

I have headers!!!!!!! Pacesetter @ that!!!!!

 

Boy OBX copied that entire Pacesetter setup to the "T"...Those copy cat Chinese thieves even copy poor designs.....I adding a flex section and welded between the merge since that was the infamous exhaust leaking source....I special ordered mine to have only the manifolds ceramic coated (Armour Coated) since I was gonna make some Fab changes to thier design....

 

I believe it does because that was the only way i knew something wasnt right... one day she was on the go go the next day she didnt have as much of a bite...

 

Thansk man because I went threw a few threads and didn't see any pictures. this helps and sucks at the same time lol headers would be nice but I guess its WSP y-pipe and hi-flow cat. . .

 

Why does it suck? What do you really want to do? My headers cost me about $250-$275 and the minor modding I did to it was simple and effective....I added a flex section, welded up the big exhaust leak between the merge, tossed all those spring loaded bolts and went with shorter SS bolts @ the 2 header collector ball and socket joints that require no gaskets nor do they move now! There were so many haters on these Headers I just had to see where the faults were and I eliminated all the weak points and enjoyed myself stepping into these throttle and feeling the super responsive VG set me back in my seat!!!!!

 

i said it sucks because I just really like the look of the headers over the stock manifold. Ill be going to an exhaust shop tomorrow and see how must they will charge to take it out and buy the other one from guy up top^^^^^^^ get a y-pipe and new cat and call it a day because i know nothing about welding lol but your set up is what I wanted.

 

QUESTION TO EVERYONE: WILL I BE ABLE TO GET MY CAR TO SOUND LIKE THIS ONE WITH THE WSP PIPE AND HIGH FLOW CAT? IF SO HOW. . .
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Wi5DYhpai8

 

nope... VG and VQ are 2 totally different-sounding beasts. One's an iron block with SOHC 2-valve head, one's an aluminum block with DOHC 4-valve head... among other differences. If you want it to sound like that, buy a 5th gen.

 

Truthfully not only would you like the look of some headers but the performance IMO is definitely noticeable as hell.....Both VG manifolds have a bit of reversion going on before they exit into the manifold collector which simply isn't good for performance at all....I would suggest you call either Pacesetter or OBX for a set.....and mod them with a flex section....I have a set of exhaust manifolds that will never be reinstalled on my car ever again!

 

I had a feeling I wouldn't be able to it is possible to get some where around that type of sound or should i say far away from a fart can?

 

My VG sounded mean only why you stepped into it.....I still had the Oem cat and Catback and it was super quiet during cruising/driving but the sound of the cam plus headers was very apparent with 1/2 to WOT......

 

Is there anyway to detect exhaust leaks? Just curious..

 

with a stethoscope hose or hose up to your ear

 

It will be a hissing sound I presume?

 

more of a sputtering sound......Hissing sound IMO is an Intake leaking....trace all your mating surfaces and joints it will show itself

 

A sputtering sound Like he said some of them you can feel the power loss but look at the video that I posted at the top the sound you head is a leak but from a broken stud.

 

O ok.. thanks. Yeah the hissing is intake.. I know about intake leaks all too well with my never ending manifold leaks I had on the Bimmer.

checked out the video.. kinda hard to diagnose without a stethascope i would think, no? i personally didnt hear anything wrong. i did hear a duck sound everytime the throttle was pressed lol.. that probably wasnt the exhaust leak i bet. and cool engine bay btw

 

That duck sound is an exhaust leak.........It ain't AFLAC!

 

 

Yeah. . . the duck sound would happen to be a leak because it comes from the exhaust manifold bolt. You see the bolt is still there but its broken off dang near flush with the block but the way its broken lets air out that little hole and it makes that sound.

 

Sup guys yeah im back took my car to a auto machine shop and the guy there said i would have to pull my engine in order for him to remove the broken stud. yeah im beyond pissed about that one.

 

Remember these same words in reply #5??????

The best thing is to replace them with new OEM studs which have been upgrade in grade strength so enlarging the bolt size can be eliminated, cause you'll be pull the heads for that operation which entail drilling the heads and manifolds and tapping the heads......that's nearly impossible on the car.....!!!!!

 

you can do it on the car but you need one of these plus the bits it's a lifesaver!!!! I 've had my for about 20 yrs now!

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalo...llattachmt.php

 

I'm about to swap some over. I'm praying for no broken studs.

 

Your studs are the small ones?

 

yes sir

 

Weren't yours new for your VE? The new studs have a dimple on the end and they're stronger material/higher grade!!!!