redline in 4th?! that's really moving..... or did you have tiny tires on it?

 

Nope, I was going that fast. tires were same size as stock. track has a ~3/4mile front straight.
I was 'only' doing about 135 at the end of the straight. I've seen Vipers doing 160+ and GT1 race cars doing 180.. fark..

 

You'll get more room with your header flange turned with 2 bolts adjacent to the rack and pinion....You were able to bolt the headers straight up bolt pattern wise?

 

Umm no, far from bolt right up. I think two were ok all other holes had to be oblonged. And flange at the bottom spins any way I put it. It's those stupid donuts flanges. And no flex pipe, but my mounts are oily filled and I don't do hole shots. Right now injector and rail is in, just need to finish cleaning plum. If anyone has a van reading this I need dimensions of (v6 3000 twin cam) sticker on valve cover trim piece.

 

Poly filled mounts I ment
And has anyone had luck fixing the cracked bolt holes where the rear trans mount bolts up.

 

I removed the (6) springs out of my hardware for the 2 ball & socket joints and bought shorter SS hardware and bolted my ball & socket joints up as tight as possible since I modified my Ypipe with a flex section near the (cat) rear flange! By the way those aren't doughnut flanges....they're Ball & Socket style!

This a Ball & Socket style exhaust
http://www.magnaflow.com/02product/02flanges.asp

This is a Doughnut style exhaust
http://www.fwdperformance.com/store/...2&ProductID=18

 

How do you like yours

 

They really made a big dfference on how the entire engine breaths.....The throttle was super responsive from the bottom to the top of the rpm range and I noticed it was sorta restricted using the stock 2" catback and cat at WOT highspeed runs, so I recently installed a 2.5" MES catback and I'm reassembling my engine in the meantime but I got 5K out of those Modified Pacesetter Headers......I also need to mention that I have Cams , an ignition system, modified fuel system, and modified intake system and tract...So the headers were essential!

 

Update: engine in and wired, needs radiator, and gas but starts up nice and loud on starting fluid. STS installed, pass axle installed, just need move car away from fense to work on drivers side

 

Can't wait to see more pics. Any suggestions on which aftermarket parts I should use for my engine rebuild? I have 233k on my ve

 

NWP spacers

 

I wonder how much a VE build like that costs in parts, not including the headers. I may want to do the same if I get this VE5 that I'm looking to purchase.

 

Aftermarket for this motor is very small. Probably $500 or below. You can count on ur hands what all u can do to that motor. I love it because its an engineering marvel (ahead of its time). I like seeing how certain parts are early versions of alot of parts still used today. Easy to understand motor and easy to assist in grasping the concept of how things work.

 

Very nicely put .

 

grassy a$$ lol

 

Aftermarket for this motor is very small.

 

the build cost for my VE was in the $4000 range, with me doing the longblock assembly.
(I had a shop assemble the short block because I didn't have the tools or patience to deal with the bearings.)

what it involved:
tank/clean everything
bore block, check for main bearing alignment (didn't need to line bore it fortuantely)
deck heads
port & polish heads
3 angle valve job w/ new valve guides
new bearings throughout the block
JE forged 11:1 87.5mm pistons
shot peen and resize rods
ARP rod bolts
new timing gear parts- chains, guides, etc.
rebuilt VTCs
assemble short block
Full OEM engine head/gasket set

Forget what else, but that's basically a full rebuild. the machine work itself was about $2500 (including $1000 in head work), and then parts were another $1500 or so.


.... and now it's just sitting in my barn rusting away.

 

So, Matt, what part of your engine is salvageable if any? And, with that kind of build what are the HP/TQ numbers and estimated ET for the VE5? Reason I'm asking is because after I buy the VE5 I'm looking at, there is a built motor that I also want to buy with most of what you had done and wanted to know what kind of N/A performance I can get from it. It has oversized JE pistons and Eagle rods with a 11.8:1 CR.

 

thats one nice build! props.....

 

Any more pics, or vids?

 

When ru coming over to this side? Hell buy Mikekantor's ve 5spd.

 

As soon as I get my finances back into order again. I lost my job I had for over 11 years and took a new job just recently at a big pay cut compared to what I was making. All in due time good sir

 

Hard times. I feel ya.

 

Installed mushimoto aluminum radiator for 95-99 max, two pull fans, some "for now" universal rubber coolant hoses, 5 gallons of gas, and swapped fuel level sensor for my gas guage on digital dash to now actually be accurate. Unfortunately I did not install blind plugs below freeze plugs on either side of block behind motor mounts. I discovered that today filling the radiator and seeing water pour from both sides of the block. Anyone know of that thread size??? Exhaust is 100% in place and tightened and flange does sit against steering rack and will rub on shifter linkage on hard shift but what do I care. I'm just trying to finish a 10 year project then I'm gonna **** on its windshield and give it a proper end. DEMO DERBY!

 

Dropped on all four wheels today, axles in, clutch bleed, radiator topped off, and started to drive it back and fourth in driveway. I definately got to adjust y-pipe flanges away from steering rack and linkage. You feel everything. The valve train is so quiet. Vtc's sound great... Even with headers and high compression, it still sounds the same... I think.

 

Congratulations Enjoy and don't over due.

 

So whats left to do? You aren't really gonna demo derby it are you?

 

No I'm not gonna demo Derby it. I just gotta protect paint. It's fading fast and rust is starting to show. As far as motor I have a lot of vacuum lines to plumb properly fix wiring issues, power steering is leaking at banjo bolt, and get it running on all 6. Cyl 4 no fuel, so gotta rip off Intake manifold. And I have to find an O2 sensor with a bigger thread. Once its mechanically sound I'm gonna finish body work. I have erubini (or something like that) ground kit, tower braces and subframe connectors.

 

With Cyl 4 not getting fuel why do you need to remove the IM? Sounds as if you have issues that could be solved within an evening. Then you can enjoy.