I accidentally...
10-13-2011, 07:18 PM
#81
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
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So what exactly is the deal with not wanting to give it any gas at take-off though?
I mean, okay - you don't have to give it gas to initially take off, but then don't you just have to immediately give it gas to accelerate? I guess it just seems somewhat trivial to me because it seems to only "save" you a split second of "work"
Though I do get what you guys mean by "twitchier", I have definitely noticed that. IMHO I think, if anything, the lightened flywheel forces you to become more "skilled" (for lack of a better word) with working the clutch though. For example, my buddy who came from his first stick shift being an '04 Mustang GT, the dude had the hardest time trying to drive a "normal" car that didn't have so much torque. He couldn't hardly drive his Civic when he bought it because he was so used to all the torque making up for his inattentive/inexperienced working of the clutch and gas. He couldn't even hardly drive my stock VE 5's over the years. He'd either completely kill it at takeoff each time, or ride the **** out of the clutch.
I definitely nowadays understand why. Because him learning on the Mustang gave him the sense of being better at it than he really was since he was able to INSTANTLY drive his GT without ANY previous experience - but that was only because the torque advantage never forced him to learn the nuances of working the clutch/gas together.
Anyway, I'm rambling
I mean, okay - you don't have to give it gas to initially take off, but then don't you just have to immediately give it gas to accelerate? I guess it just seems somewhat trivial to me because it seems to only "save" you a split second of "work"
Though I do get what you guys mean by "twitchier", I have definitely noticed that. IMHO I think, if anything, the lightened flywheel forces you to become more "skilled" (for lack of a better word) with working the clutch though. For example, my buddy who came from his first stick shift being an '04 Mustang GT, the dude had the hardest time trying to drive a "normal" car that didn't have so much torque. He couldn't hardly drive his Civic when he bought it because he was so used to all the torque making up for his inattentive/inexperienced working of the clutch and gas. He couldn't even hardly drive my stock VE 5's over the years. He'd either completely kill it at takeoff each time, or ride the **** out of the clutch.
I definitely nowadays understand why. Because him learning on the Mustang gave him the sense of being better at it than he really was since he was able to INSTANTLY drive his GT without ANY previous experience - but that was only because the torque advantage never forced him to learn the nuances of working the clutch/gas together.
Anyway, I'm rambling
If the tranny shifted lightning fast then maybe the Fidanza would make more sense, espeicially if i planned on doing SCCA or autocross or something. But it's just a DD and the tranny has ~140k on it, so it doesn't move between gears as quick as it did when it was new and the synchros were in their prime. Hoping the Redline MT90 helps with that a bit tho.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-14-2011 at 12:44 AM.
10-14-2011, 07:12 AM
#82
Really? on an upshift your RPM falls that quickly? or you dont shift it fast enough to catch it before the RPM drops? I dont have that experience with my VE 5speeds, but maybe the VE tranny is a different animal
I see what James is saying about driving a torquier engine versus the opposite, For what its worth though i still have to give my Z28 some throttle to get it moving
I see what James is saying about driving a torquier engine versus the opposite, For what its worth though i still have to give my Z28 some throttle to get it moving
10-14-2011, 12:09 PM
#83
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
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Really? on an upshift your RPM falls that quickly? or you dont shift it fast enough to catch it before the RPM drops? I dont have that experience with my VE 5speeds, but maybe the VE tranny is a different animal
I see what James is saying about driving a torquier engine versus the opposite, For what its worth though i still have to give my Z28 some throttle to get it moving
I see what James is saying about driving a torquier engine versus the opposite, For what its worth though i still have to give my Z28 some throttle to get it moving
I'm not saying i expect it to take off at full speed without using any gas.. yes, gas is needed to get the car going, but i like the reslience that the extra flywheel mass provides in terms of being more forgiving on low-rpm launches.. ie accidental upward dwitch of the foot mid-launch won't result in insta-bog or insta-stall like it does now..
tho again i realize that a big part of my problems are the shifty mounts which allow the clutch to fully lock up when you let off the gas, even if you haven't gotten all the way off the clutch yet.
so hence my plans to a) switch the flywheel out b) use high quality GL4 tranny fluid and c) fix the motor/trans/subframe mounts all at the same time.
10-14-2011, 12:15 PM
#84
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and if you wanna talk about what a vehicle can do without giving it any gas at all... this is my truck. on a slight uphill grade. with no gas until my 4-2 downshift (rpm spikes are due to the idle-up valve being slow to close when i push the clutch in)
(click for video)
(click for video)
10-16-2011, 07:11 AM
#87
That's a great idea with the threaded rods and bolts to set the mounts on the side completely horizontal. Wish I would have thought of that years ago
10-16-2011, 08:59 AM
#88
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but yea the threaded rod n nut thing was pretty nice, but pricey. something like $35 just for the hardware.
also i can't believe how good those pics came out for being taken on my phone
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-16-2011 at 09:10 AM.
10-16-2011, 09:55 AM
#89
yeah, clear packing tape. wasn't as good of a leakproofer as i'd hoped tho... and partly my fault for not letting the poly thicken up for 5-10 minutes before pouring it. so, since the tape partially failed and the stuff was so runny i had to use 2 cans of poly when i probably could have otherwise just used 1.
but yea the threaded rod n nut thing was pretty nice, but pricey. something like $35 just for the hardware.
also i can't believe how good those pics came out for being taken on my phone
but yea the threaded rod n nut thing was pretty nice, but pricey. something like $35 just for the hardware.
also i can't believe how good those pics came out for being taken on my phone
They are good pics.. what kind of phone? I've always been amazed at the quality of pictures my iPhone 4 used to take and my new 4S takes even better ones. Cell phones have come a long way
I haven't used my normal point and shoot camera in over a year and a half. Plus, it's way more convenient on the phone as I can instantly upload them to photobucket and don't have to screw with the USB cable transfer to the computer, then going to photobucket's website and uploading, etc
10-16-2011, 04:49 PM
#90
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I'm really glad to see the CapedCadaver back. You have always been very helpful and I appreciate that very much.
Looking forward to seeing the progress -
And finding myself some of that polyurethane, interesting stuff, I'd like to mold some new rear wheel cush drives for my motorcycle.
Looking forward to seeing the progress -
And finding myself some of that polyurethane, interesting stuff, I'd like to mold some new rear wheel cush drives for my motorcycle.
10-16-2011, 09:44 PM
#91
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I always forget to let it thicken up first too. Even with my best seal up efforts I always get a ton leak out.
They are good pics.. what kind of phone? I've always been amazed at the quality of pictures my iPhone 4 used to take and my new 4S takes even better ones. Cell phones have come a long way
I haven't used my normal point and shoot camera in over a year and a half. Plus, it's way more convenient on the phone as I can instantly upload them to photobucket and don't have to screw with the USB cable transfer to the computer, then going to photobucket's website and uploading, etc
They are good pics.. what kind of phone? I've always been amazed at the quality of pictures my iPhone 4 used to take and my new 4S takes even better ones. Cell phones have come a long way
I haven't used my normal point and shoot camera in over a year and a half. Plus, it's way more convenient on the phone as I can instantly upload them to photobucket and don't have to screw with the USB cable transfer to the computer, then going to photobucket's website and uploading, etc
i'm so happy that this time around, i have 2 cars (well 3 if you count the Z, it has no license plate) so it's no big deal waiting a full week for the mounts to cure before installing them. Last time i made a poly mount, the max was my only car, so i was chomping at the bit to put it back in asap which was a bad idea.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-16-2011 at 09:47 PM.
10-16-2011, 09:49 PM
#92
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
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I'm really glad to see the CapedCadaver back. You have always been very helpful and I appreciate that very much.
Looking forward to seeing the progress -
And finding myself some of that polyurethane, interesting stuff, I'd like to mold some new rear wheel cush drives for my motorcycle.
Looking forward to seeing the progress -
And finding myself some of that polyurethane, interesting stuff, I'd like to mold some new rear wheel cush drives for my motorcycle.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casting-compounds
10-17-2011, 01:02 PM
#93
i get mine here.. i usedc the 94A black. it took about 1.3 of the 1lb cans.. if i'd let it thicken before pouring i could have got away with 1 1lb can.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casting-compounds
http://www.mcmaster.com/#urethane-casting-compounds
I filled the VE mounts with 3M window weld and it's been perfect. I'm sticking with rubber on the tranny mount though.
10-17-2011, 02:04 PM
#94
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http://www.z31parts.com/polyparts.html
10-17-2011, 08:40 PM
#96
10-26-2011, 09:14 AM
#99
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Last edited by CapedCadaver; 10-26-2011 at 10:58 AM.
10-26-2011, 02:03 PM
#100
Hey, you copied my design with the larger center pin! Frankly I think you should have made it larger, but I'm very curious to see how yours performs. When do you think you will install and be able to review them?
I've said this before, but this design has by far been the most successful of many. There really is NO noticeable increase in vibration at any RPM, massive reduction in wheel hop and even torque steer. This all in a turbo maxima, so the effects should be more so with NA power.
I've said this before, but this design has by far been the most successful of many. There really is NO noticeable increase in vibration at any RPM, massive reduction in wheel hop and even torque steer. This all in a turbo maxima, so the effects should be more so with NA power.
10-26-2011, 09:12 PM
#102
unless your mounts are TOTALLY gone, then a poly mount will increase vibration, not reduce it.... so a V6 won't vibrate as bad as a 4 cylinder for multiple reasons but there will be an increase in vibration at idle and, for manual cars, when under load at low rpm (you can't really put an automatic under that much load at low rpm due to the way the torque converter slips, and the fact that it'll downshift by itself if RPM is too low).
10-26-2011, 11:31 PM
#103
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
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Hey, you copied my design with the larger center pin! Frankly I think you should have made it larger, but I'm very curious to see how yours performs. When do you think you will install and be able to review them?
I've said this before, but this design has by far been the most successful of many. There really is NO noticeable increase in vibration at any RPM, massive reduction in wheel hop and even torque steer. This all in a turbo maxima, so the effects should be more so with NA power.
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk271/maxturbo91/MMCenterPinSMALL.jpg[/IfMG]
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk271/maxturbo91/croppedMMbigsleave.jpg[/IfMG]
I've said this before, but this design has by far been the most successful of many. There really is NO noticeable increase in vibration at any RPM, massive reduction in wheel hop and even torque steer. This all in a turbo maxima, so the effects should be more so with NA power.
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk271/maxturbo91/MMCenterPinSMALL.jpg[/IfMG]
[IMG]http://i282.photobucket.com/albums/kk271/maxturbo91/croppedMMbigsleave.jpg[/IfMG]
yea i would do all or nothing. The different compressability of the poly vs the rubber will somewhat diminish the positive effects of using poly, tho still better than nothing.
11-06-2011, 04:40 PM
#104
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
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FINALLY got the mounts installed. also put new xmember mounting pads, since the ones on there were pretty jacked up.
old smashed on left, new on right
speaks for itself
old smashed on left, new on right
speaks for itself
11-07-2011, 04:14 PM
#106
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finally got my knuckles back with new wheel bearings and one new hub (the other one was machined away by the bad bearing). Those should be going back on tomorrow, which means i *might* have the whole front end of the car back together tomorrow, which means i might be able to crank it up tomorrow and spin it around in the driveway to do the rear end.
11-09-2011, 12:08 PM
#108
11-10-2011, 05:32 AM
#110
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having 4 poly mounts is actually pretty rough tho... but for $100bucks (including what i paid for the threaded rod and washers/nuts) it was worth a shot to avoid paying $450 for new OEM mounts.
gonna get just the 2 OEM tranny side mounts and put those on, since the crossmember at least has rubber pads on it to absorb some of the NVH.
gonna get just the 2 OEM tranny side mounts and put those on, since the crossmember at least has rubber pads on it to absorb some of the NVH.
11-10-2011, 07:55 AM
#111
Yup my engine mounts are poly and tranny mounts are rubber...nice mix. Did the parallel links, trailing arms, rear stabilizer bar bushing and links. Mevotech reinforced rear strut mount. Front got new spring hats, dust cover, strut bearing, mounts, EMPI axles, eBay LCA's and KYB struts and inserts. I did it all at once for the full effect. Costly but worth it IMO.
11-10-2011, 08:18 AM
#112
Call me Wookiee Goldberg
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Yup my engine mounts are poly and tranny mounts are rubber...nice mix. Did the parallel links, trailing arms, rear stabilizer bar bushing and links. Mevotech reinforced rear strut mount. Front got new spring hats, dust cover, strut bearing, mounts, EMPI axles, eBay LCA's and KYB struts and inserts. I did it all at once for the full effect. Costly but worth it IMO.
11-10-2011, 10:00 AM
#113
yeah i did most of those things.. using Tokicos tho. still gotta do the rear links and springs/strutmounts and then take it to the alignment shop. But i really don't wanna drive it until i swap on the rubber trans mounts because i'm just not really interested to drive it when i can't hear the radio over the rattling interior pieces.
11-10-2011, 11:38 AM
#114
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what hardness of poly did you use? the 80a or the 94a? or something else? Granted, i have 2 broken studs on the same exhaust port and i can definitely feel the car thumping due to the exhaust leak.. i wonder how much smoother it would be if not for that leak.
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 11-10-2011 at 11:45 AM.
11-10-2011, 03:44 PM
#115
I used 3M Window weld, I looked at it yesterday when I did a oil change. No cracks after a year of DD use.
11-10-2011, 08:01 PM
#117
Is it really that rough for you? I've always used 80A and never really noticed much added vibration.
Did you use the 94A? If so, that coupled with the much larger center pin I can see how it'd be noticeably rougher.
Did you use the 94A? If so, that coupled with the much larger center pin I can see how it'd be noticeably rougher.
11-11-2011, 08:54 AM
#118
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startup, and driving down the street. I know there's only so much you can tell from the sound, but it's definitely nothing like oem. Granted the exhaust leak is probably contributing quite a bit....
Last edited by CapedCadaver; 11-11-2011 at 09:10 AM.
11-14-2011, 03:23 PM
#120
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this is unrelated but how good it the interior room in a z31 compared to a maxima(driver seat)? i have always wanted one but havent had a chance to sit in one. i ask because im a tall fat guy and leg/head room is important. i have the seat all the way back in my maxima (3rd gen) and its about perfect.
Last edited by max_overdrive; 11-14-2011 at 03:28 PM.