CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

there's a tall fat guy at work with a z31.... shall i forward your query on to him?

i dunno, i'm 5'10" 175lb so i fit in it quite well. tho even at 255lb last summer i never really felt cramped as long as i eased up on the bolsters some.

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Wow you lost 80 lbs in a year?

max_overdrive

ok thanks, my junkyard has one and i keep forgetting to sit in it, i did sit in a z32 and i fit ok .

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

90lb in 10 monhts, held steady for 3 months then gained 10lb back. diet only (no exercise, no surgery, no pills)

zcarmaniac

The Z31 is probably more spacious than a Maxima.I sold mine to a guy that was 6'6".

James92SE

iTrader: (31)

Kudos, pretty impressive man

zcarmaniac

Sounds kind of unhealthy.What did you eat?

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

lean cuisine, yogurt, fruit, walnuts, water.. wasn't starving by any means, still having right around 2000 cal per day. my "natural" weight is right around 180.. i had just been stuffing my face with so much garbage (6000 calories a day or so, mostly greasy sugary salty stuff) that i gained over 90lb in 3 years from 162lb to 255lb so cutting the crap out allowed me to quickly return to where i was before.

zcarmaniac

I've been working out,eating nutritiously,and several rounds of chemo,and I've only lost 30lbs.I guess I need to hang with you...

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

so i got genuine OEM trans mounts and put them on today... was still rough but not AS rough..

but then after the car warmed up as if by the flick of a switch it got MUCH smoother.. so i'm guessing either i have something causing a misfire specifically under open-loop conditions, or an intermittent miss that just so happened to fix itself around the time the engine warmed up.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

blarg.

so everything is back together now (minus the cotter pins in the axle nuts), and magically i also noticed that my left blinker is stuck solid-on, and my right blinker goes into hyperdrive when i try to use it (while my left one is still on).... unfunny car, unfunny.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Headlight switch.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

also have cylinder 1 misfire

I guess i gotta take the intake apart and figure out wtf is up with that injector... i ohmed it when i had the intake manifold off last month and they were all fine....

i was *attempting* to swap the 89-92 middle intake plate for a 93-94 plate (only difference is that it's notched to make room for the bigger injector plugs) but i accidentally grabbed my extra 89-92 plate, not my 93-94 plate. I've since found the correct plate in a box in the garage so i gotta do it alll over again

eh... i doubt it.. i combed through the FSM and based on how the car is wired, it's most likely the combo flasher unit. There's 2 different signal systems... one for the 89-91 cars, and a different one for the 92-94 cars. But on either system it would be electrically impossible for the headlight switch to make a signal bulb stay solid-on

The 89-91 cars use an indirect system with a 7-pin combo flasher so that the signal trigger and corner-lamp trigger share the same wire. The signal switch doesn't directly handle the bulb circuit, it only grounds the trigger wires from the combo flasher and corner lamp units.
89-91 combo flasher wires:

• R/G power (from battery or IGN via hazard switch, depending if it's pressed)
• R/L left trigger wire (to turn signal switch pin 3, grounded thru pin 1 when active)
• R Right trigger wire (to turn signal switch 2, grounded thru pin 1 when active)
• P/B left flashing output
• P/L right flashing output
• B ground
• P trigger from hazard-on

So odds are it's flaky capacitors/transistors or bad solders inside this unit that are causing the left side the right side to flash fast. nc90gxe said it had happened to him a time or two when he owned the car so i guess it's just being a little biitch again

The 92-94 cars use a "simpler" direct system with a 3-pin combo flasher and a separate plug on the headlight switch to control the corner-lamp system. The flasher is upstream of the headlight switch, so the headlight switch always receives a flashing signal unless the flasher itself has bit the dust.
92-94 combo flasher wires:

• R/G power (from battery or IGN via hazard switch, depending if it's pressed)
• B ground
• OR/L flashing output (to turn signal switch pin 1, directed by signal switch out pins 2 and 3)

frankly i much prefer the 89-91 system cuz it lets you be a lot more flexible with re-wiring the corner lamps etc. I'm going to be retrofitting that system onto the Z so i can redo the bumper/corner lights and whatnot.

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

When I swapped the 92SE into the 90SE I discovered all that when I ran into a problem with the turn signals. As for the Z, I have the crazy idea of using a Maxima ECU for my radiator fan controller.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

you realize they sell fan controllers for like, $20 right?

and if you're going to use the Maxima ECU for that might as well use it to get sequential-fire as well... that's what i'm ultimately doing. Getting rid of some of the zany 80's-rific emissions nonsense and using just the maxima IACV

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

so i fixed the misfire... turns out the #1 injector plug was not plugged all the way in. The 89-92 intake plate does not have enough clearance for the 93-94 plugs so they get jammed on there, apparently that one was jammed halfway off the injector.

89-92 (modified, partially milled out with a dremel/burr thing)



93-94

Augustus Maximus

iTrader: (6)

Did the parallel links and trailing arms yet. Do the endlinks and rear stabilizer bushing while you're in there.

CapedCadaver

iTrader: (8)

car's already back together.. I have blehmco rear links but the heim joints are worn on them so they're clicking pretty much all the time. the bar bushings are fine tho, they're poly.. need lubing, but are still in good shape.