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VE30DE issue - hesitation

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Old 01-25-2012 | 02:03 PM
  #41  
bluewater's Avatar
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Cannot retard timing anymore

Recently, I did two things to my 92 SE:

1. Put a 470K ohm resistor to the KS connector;
2. Ground VTC.

After these two mods, timing is way advanced (close to 30 degrees BTDC) so I have to retard timing. I have turned the crank angle sensor to its limit (counter clock wise to retard timing). Now the timing is about 17 degrees BTDC. Although this is within timing limit of 15 +/- 2 degrees, I will not be able to reduce timing anymore.

So, I have two questions:

1. Is it normal to have timing way advanced after these two mods?
2. Is there a way to reduce timing further?

Thanks in advance.
Old 01-25-2012 | 02:24 PM
  #42  
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I wanted to start a new thread on my last post. However, I am not allowed to start a new thread. Can I ask administrator to assign me the privilege to do this? Thanks.
Old 01-26-2012 | 12:46 PM
  #43  
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2 VE's are better than one!
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Hmm, I've never heard of the timing inexplicably advancing that far with grounding the VTC's and/or the resistor. If your timing is really that high though you need to be careful with no knock sensor being hooked up.

You cant post a new thread until you get to some arbitrary post-count. 15 or something, I think.
Old 01-26-2012 | 05:55 PM
  #44  
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Well, I experienced another thing today. I cannot start the car without pressing the gas pedal very hard. Before the mods, I can just turn the key to start the car. Not sure what causes this but I don't like it. So I canceled the two mods. Now I can start the car with just one turn of the key.
Old 01-26-2012 | 05:57 PM
  #45  
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Well, I experienced another thing today. I cannot start the car without pressing the gas pedal very hard. Before the mods, I can just turn the key to start the car. Not sure what causes this but I don't like it. So I canceled the two mods. Now I can start the car with just one turn of the key.
Old 01-26-2012 | 06:00 PM
  #46  
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Not to duplicate the posts intentionally . But this might be a quick way to get me pass the 15 posts mark -
Old 01-27-2012 | 12:35 AM
  #47  
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From: Riverside, CA
Originally Posted by 92SEftw
Hey all, hoping somebody can help me solve my issue

The issue I'm having involves hesitation after the car has fully warmed up to operating temperature. The car runs perfect when cold. This can be felt the greatest while accelerating from a stop. I push the gas and the car doesn't really go anywhere for about 2-3 seconds sometimes then it finally starts to accelerate.

I've done the following repairs within the last 10,000 miles that I was hoping would solve the issue:

sparkplugs
air filter
fuel filter
6 new fuel injectors

I'm out of ideas and my mechanic who is a retired Nissan master mechanic cannot figure it out either. The only code the car throws is related to a speed sensor causing the ABS light to stay on. Hopefully somebody here has ran into this issue and has a solution. Thanks.
Check fuel vapor ---> Canister purge ----> check for intake air leak
Old 01-27-2012 | 12:42 AM
  #48  
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From: Riverside, CA
Originally Posted by bluewater
Recently, I did two things to my 92 SE:

1. Put a 470K ohm resistor to the KS connector;
2. Ground VTC.

After these two mods, timing is way advanced (close to 30 degrees BTDC) so I have to retard timing. I have turned the crank angle sensor to its limit (counter clock wise to retard timing). Now the timing is about 17 degrees BTDC. Although this is within timing limit of 15 +/- 2 degrees, I will not be able to reduce timing anymore.

So, I have two questions:

1. Is it normal to have timing way advanced after these two mods?
2. Is there a way to reduce timing further?

Thanks in advance.
Why not just free up 1-6 hours (if this will be your first time) to replace the KS? Just be prepared to have a bunch of cusses And have a 12(or 10) mm nut driver for one of the water pipe's bolt and a 6mm allen hex.
Old 01-27-2012 | 03:25 PM
  #49  
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Posts: 36
Originally Posted by Laevateinn
Why not just free up 1-6 hours (if this will be your first time) to replace the KS? Just be prepared to have a bunch of cusses And have a 12(or 10) mm nut driver for one of the water pipe's bolt and a 6mm allen hex.
I need to do this at some point. Maybe I will combine this task with replacing all the injectors which are almost 20 years old.

I have replaced the valve cover seals and some vacuum hoses not long ago. I should have done the KS and injectors at that time.
Old 01-28-2012 | 01:23 AM
  #50  
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From: Riverside, CA
Originally Posted by bluewater
I need to do this at some point. Maybe I will combine this task with replacing all the injectors which are almost 20 years old.

I have replaced the valve cover seals and some vacuum hoses not long ago. I should have done the KS and injectors at that time.
If you have a good amount of money to replace those injectors, go for it. They're pricey though. If they're working fine, why replace them? You can check for air leaks by blowing smoke (if you smoke) by one of the vacuum hoses WHILE THE ENGINE IS OFF.
Old 01-28-2012 | 07:54 AM
  #51  
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Posts: 36
Originally Posted by Laevateinn
If you have a good amount of money to replace those injectors, go for it. They're pricey though. If they're working fine, why replace them? You can check for air leaks by blowing smoke (if you smoke) by one of the vacuum hoses WHILE THE ENGINE IS OFF.
How long does a injector last? Mine is almost 20 years old since I bought the car brand new in 1992.
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