Help. Isolating Fuel systems problem
#2
Buy a cheap oil pressure gauge (that you will be using as a fuel pressure gauge) and a metal "T" that you plumb into the fuel line just after the fuel filter - FSM says what your particular engine's fuel pressure must be at idle and certain manifold vacuum values - if fuel pressure conforms to those specs then pump and regulator are probably ok.
In addition - after engine is switched off, the fuel pressure in the line should stay at around 35 to 40psi for a minute or so and should not immediately drop to zero ................... if it drops too fast you may have a funky pump/regulator/injector
In addition - after engine is switched off, the fuel pressure in the line should stay at around 35 to 40psi for a minute or so and should not immediately drop to zero ................... if it drops too fast you may have a funky pump/regulator/injector
#3
Buy a cheap oil pressure gauge (that you will be using as a fuel pressure gauge) and a metal "T" that you plumb into the fuel line just after the fuel filter - FSM says what your particular engine's fuel pressure must be at idle and certain manifold vacuum values - if fuel pressure conforms to those specs then pump and regulator are probably ok.
In addition - after engine is switched off, the fuel pressure in the line should stay at around 35 to 40psi for a minute or so and should not immediately drop to zero ................... if it drops too fast you may have a funky pump/regulator/injector
In addition - after engine is switched off, the fuel pressure in the line should stay at around 35 to 40psi for a minute or so and should not immediately drop to zero ................... if it drops too fast you may have a funky pump/regulator/injector
#5
2. It wont start before and I changed the fuel filter. It worked fine for <2 days and now it won't start again.
3. It cranks but doesn't continue.
4. When it was working before, I can hear a higher pitch "clearing throat" like sound before it starts.
5. I'm not sure if a knock sensor can cause this too but I also have a Code 34.
#6
You can forget about the KS for now. Sounds like you're on the right track because of the odd sounds you're describing. Otherwise I'd say to check the ignition system. Either check that fuel pressure or simply replace the pump and see if your problems go away.
#7
Can I check fuel pressure without a starting engine?
#8
Yes - see my first post here - simply turn key so that ignition lights come on and your fuel pressure should be around 35psi+ (see FSM for your particular engine) ............... and if you switch off, the pressure should very slowly decay
#9
What kind of ignition test should I conduct?
#10
As for the FSM and what ignition tests to perform:
http://forums.maxima.org/3rd-generat...re-asking.html
Its simply too much to type out here again
#11
What does a high pitched "clearing throat" like sound indicate when starting? I'm pretty sure it's the fuel system. fuel pump newly replaced and now I can hear a buzzing sound from the back (which is the pump, right?) but this distinctive sound is bugging me. I've been hearing it with my old pump before it failed. Does it indicate a restriction in my fuel system or new pumps really do that?
#12
What does a high pitched "clearing throat" like sound indicate when starting? I'm pretty sure it's the fuel system. fuel pump newly replaced and now I can hear a buzzing sound from the back (which is the pump, right?) but this distinctive sound is bugging me. I've been hearing it with my old pump before it failed. Does it indicate a restriction in my fuel system or new pumps really do that?
The "T" ........................... the "T"................... is the answer as I said before - results from running the motor with that in the fuel plumbing can tell anybody way more than a throat clearing sound
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aminus21
4th Generation Classifieds (1995-1999)
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09-12-2015 04:53 PM